Date   

Re: [Amel] CAVITATING NOISE

Paul LaFrance <pflafrance@...>
 

Jean-Luc
What is the silent-block? Is it the braking devise to stop the prop from spinning on the Amel designed sail drive.

Paul LaFrance
SV NOMAD # 362





To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: jlm@jlmertz.fr
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 09:43:28 +0200
Subject: Re: [Amel] CAVITATING NOISE






1. I suppose it is NOT cavitation (you are at more 50cm under the
water line and no noise over 2300 rpm)
2. Have you checked the status of silent-block ?

JLuc
CottonBay
sm316

Le 13/06/2011 23:44, LaFrance a 馗rit :

We recently noticed a new noise and vibration/cavitation when running
our 75 HP Yanmar engine at revs between 1500 and 2300. No noise
/cavitation on rpms outside this range. We thought at first there
might be something wrong with the Autoprop. We have since changed it
out with the fixed prop and the noise/cavitation sound is still there.
There is no water immulsification in the oil so we think the shaft
seals are staight and true from the prop.
Has any one had this problem and had to deal with it or if there are
other suggestions it would be appreciated.

Paul & Sue LaFrance
SV NOMAD SM #362
Currently in Bristol, RI

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: SM2000 Lewmar Winches

karkauai
 

Thanks, Gary....perfect.
Kent

--- On Mon, 6/13/11, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


From: amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: SM2000 Lewmar Winches
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, June 13, 2011, 7:14 PM






Hi Kent:

The pawls and springs are the same for all winches on our SM. The crescent keys are the same for all winches as well. I found these crescent keys at Island Water World in St. Georges, Grenada. Buy one small overhaul kit and it should provide you ample springs and pawls. As for servicing the winch motors, I have not done that. I suppose there could be brushes that could require servicing. The drive shaft for the motors also have a lip seal that could theoretically need to be replaced as the rubber might deteriorate. I have not done either of those services.

All the best,

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Thanks Gary.テつ Very concise explanation.テつ Are the pawls and springs the same in all size winches we have on SM2K's?テつ Right now I'm hoping to be able to order what I'll need but don't know the sizes of the winches that I'm going to be working on.
Kent







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Leroy sommers- out haul gear box part number

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

John,

It would be helpful if you could post the LeroySomer model number for the gearbox and the gear.

Bill
BeBe
Currently Athens, Greece

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, " Anne and John Hollamby" <annejohnholl@...> wrote:

Hi Eric, The gearbox can be bought via the UK, see my post No 8768. I seem to recall a much earlier message saying that the cost from Amel was about $2000. I got the details of the UK Agent for Leroy Somers from their website, I imagine they must have a US Agent.
It seems to me that the only things that could need replacement are the bronze gear and the oil seal plus the lubricant. The motor is rated for continuous operation and the total hours run even over ten years could only be less than say 100 hours thus the bearings and motor drive shaft should be hardly "run in".

Best wishes, Anne and John, SM 319
----- Original Message -----
From: kimberlite
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2011 2:15 AM
Subject: [Amel] RE: Leroy sommers- out haul gear box part number



I am also looking for a gearbox for this motor.

Does anyone have a good contact?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2011 6:27 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Leroy sommers- out haul gear box part number

It seems like quite a few people are tackling the problems servicing their
outhaul gearboxes. I happened to notice the other day that the top lip seal
was shot on mine and started on a two day project to disassemble the
gearbox.

I tried just about everything to get the inner shaft removed, except
"getting medieval with a sledge hammer" as one of the other owners
demonstrated. After bending several 8mm steel brackets and breaking my
puller tool, we finally succeeded with a 20mm thick steal bracket that was
fabricated for the purpose. The nice thing about the approach that finally
succeeded for us was that all the force was placed on the outer shaft of the
gearbox, none on the boom or the other components of the gearbox. I'll post
a picture when I have a chance.

I found the model information posted by one of the other owners here:

Manufacturer: LS Leroy Somer
Made in France
6015 Angoulene
Reducteur N 0256889
Type MVA M33C
Rduction 1/60

I have not been able to reach Leroy Somer via their contact page. Can anyone
recommend a reliable and inexpensive source to order the gearbox or parts
from? Any pricing info?

One other question: it seems that the outhaul gearbox causes more problems
than the main sail furling gearbox. Is that right? Is the latter just less
exposed to the elements?

thanks, Mark

SM331

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches

Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@...>
 

Kent,
ツツツ All mine are manual, but it is a good thing to have DC motors checked every 10 years or so
ツツ The carbon brushes gradually wear away, and leave a residue of carbon on the commutator. This should be cleaned off and the gaps between the copper strips cleared of any build up. This is a simple but skilled job, so if you are uncertain, better get a good electrician to do it. If the brushes are worn below 50%, I, personally, would replace them whilst you have the motor in bits.
ツツツ Most DC motors use standard brushes, probably a standardeuropean size - your dificulty will be to find the equivalent, but there again an electrician usedツ to dealing with DC motors should have access to equivalents.

Good luck- Mike

PS: remember Murphy's second law of yachtingツツ "Interchangeable parts don't"



________________________________
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches



Thank you, Mike.ツ As KRISTY is 12 years old now and I don't think she was maintained the last 4-5 years before I bought her, I'm trying to go over everything systematically to avoid things going bad while I'm out cruising.ツ (At least as much as possible.)ツ I'll have a look at those bolts and drain holes while I'm at it.ツ Would you do anything with the motors themselves if all was working OK?
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Maramu out haul gear box

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Mark and Eric, If all else fails, or if you don't mind the expense but are short of time, you can do what Amel did for us in Guadeloupe, namely to take a hacksaw to the shaft, in the small gap just above the gearbox.You put the saw blade in and then attach it to the saw itself.That way the whole thing is free in about ten minutes. However, it does mean a new shaft as well as a new gearbox . Given that most people will need a new gearbox anyway, the extra cost is the shaft which presumably Amel buy from the winch manufacturer. Our outhaul gear box was 9 years old and had done about 36,000 miles at the time.It hadn't stopped working but was making a bad noise. Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Spain

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: markghayden@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 20:03:11 +0000
Subject: Re: [Amel] Maramu out haul gear box

Eric,

Thanks for the comment. Your pictures/diagrams were very helpful in removing the shaft. I posted a picture of the bracket I used in your SM Outhaul Service photo group as another approach to getting the shaft out that avoids bringing out the ol' sledge hammer. Hopefully it will be helpful.

After spending severals days getting that apart, I will be following your lead with servicing it every year.

Did you ever find a good US source for the Leroy-Somers gearboxes?

thanks, Mark

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Mark,

I had the same problem last year. I finally resorted to removing the boom
turning it upside down. I then supported it on wood blocks.

I installed a black grade cap screw in the hole in the shaft until it was
flush. I then did go medieval on it with a large sledge hammer. It did come
out after about 15 swings. I now use an antiseize compound from McMaster
Carr every 6 months.

As a ps the shaft comes out easier if you remove the screw from the arm that
goes into the Antal winch drum.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2011 6:27 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Maramu out haul gear box





It seems like quite a few people are tackling the problems servicing their
outhaul gearboxes. I happened to notice the other day that the top lip seal
was shot on mine and started on a two day project to disassemble the
gearbox.

I tried just about everything to get the inner shaft removed, except
"getting medieval with a sledge hammer" as one of the other owners
demonstrated. After bending several 8mm steel brackets and breaking my
puller tool, we finally succeeded with a 20mm thick steal bracket that was
fabricated for the purpose. The nice thing about the approach that finally
succeeded for us was that all the force was placed on the outer shaft of the
gearbox, none on the boom or the other components of the gearbox. I'll post
a picture when I have a chance.

I found the model information posted by one of the other owners here:

Manufacturer: LS Leroy Somer
Made in France
6015 Angoulene
Reducteur N 0256889
Type MVA M33C
Rduction 1/60

I have not been able to reach Leroy Somer via their contact page. Can anyone
recommend a reliable and inexpensive source to order the gearbox or parts
from? Any pricing info?

One other question: it seems that the outhaul gearbox causes more problems
than the main sail furling gearbox. Is that right? Is the latter just less
exposed to the elements?

thanks, Mark

SM331









------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: [Amel] RE: Leroy sommers- out haul gear box part number

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Hi Eric, The gearbox can be bought via the UK, see my post No 8768. I seem to recall a much earlier message saying that the cost from Amel was about $2000. I got the details of the UK Agent for Leroy Somers from their website, I imagine they must have a US Agent.
It seems to me that the only things that could need replacement are the bronze gear and the oil seal plus the lubricant. The motor is rated for continuous operation and the total hours run even over ten years could only be less than say 100 hours thus the bearings and motor drive shaft should be hardly "run in".

Best wishes, Anne and John, SM 319

----- Original Message -----
From: kimberlite
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2011 2:15 AM
Subject: [Amel] RE: Leroy sommers- out haul gear box part number



I am also looking for a gearbox for this motor.

Does anyone have a good contact?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2011 6:27 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Leroy sommers- out haul gear box part number

It seems like quite a few people are tackling the problems servicing their
outhaul gearboxes. I happened to notice the other day that the top lip seal
was shot on mine and started on a two day project to disassemble the
gearbox.

I tried just about everything to get the inner shaft removed, except
"getting medieval with a sledge hammer" as one of the other owners
demonstrated. After bending several 8mm steel brackets and breaking my
puller tool, we finally succeeded with a 20mm thick steal bracket that was
fabricated for the purpose. The nice thing about the approach that finally
succeeded for us was that all the force was placed on the outer shaft of the
gearbox, none on the boom or the other components of the gearbox. I'll post
a picture when I have a chance.

I found the model information posted by one of the other owners here:

Manufacturer: LS Leroy Somer
Made in France
6015 Angoulene
Reducteur N 0256889
Type MVA M33C
Rduction 1/60

I have not been able to reach Leroy Somer via their contact page. Can anyone
recommend a reliable and inexpensive source to order the gearbox or parts
from? Any pricing info?

One other question: it seems that the outhaul gearbox causes more problems
than the main sail furling gearbox. Is that right? Is the latter just less
exposed to the elements?

thanks, Mark

SM331


Re: [Amel] CAVITATING NOISE

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

1. I suppose it is NOT cavitation (you are at more 50cm under the
water line and no noise over 2300 rpm)
2. Have you checked the status of silent-block ?

JLuc
CottonBay
sm316

Le 13/06/2011 23:44, LaFrance a テゥcrit :

We recently noticed a new noise and vibration/cavitation when running
our 75 HP Yanmar engine at revs between 1500 and 2300. No noise
/cavitation on rpms outside this range. We thought at first there
might be something wrong with the Autoprop. We have since changed it
out with the fixed prop and the noise/cavitation sound is still there.
There is no water immulsification in the oil so we think the shaft
seals are staight and true from the prop.
Has any one had this problem and had to deal with it or if there are
other suggestions it would be appreciated.

Paul & Sue LaFrance
SV NOMAD SM #362
Currently in Bristol, RI


Re: Leroy sommers- out haul gear box part number

Eric Freedman
 

I am also looking for a gearbox for this motor.

Does anyone have a good contact?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2011 6:27 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Leroy sommers- out haul gear box part number





It seems like quite a few people are tackling the problems servicing their
outhaul gearboxes. I happened to notice the other day that the top lip seal
was shot on mine and started on a two day project to disassemble the
gearbox.

I tried just about everything to get the inner shaft removed, except
"getting medieval with a sledge hammer" as one of the other owners
demonstrated. After bending several 8mm steel brackets and breaking my
puller tool, we finally succeeded with a 20mm thick steal bracket that was
fabricated for the purpose. The nice thing about the approach that finally
succeeded for us was that all the force was placed on the outer shaft of the
gearbox, none on the boom or the other components of the gearbox. I'll post
a picture when I have a chance.

I found the model information posted by one of the other owners here:

Manufacturer: LS Leroy Somer
Made in France
6015 Angoulene
Reducteur N 0256889
Type MVA M33C
Rduction 1/60

I have not been able to reach Leroy Somer via their contact page. Can anyone
recommend a reliable and inexpensive source to order the gearbox or parts
from? Any pricing info?

One other question: it seems that the outhaul gearbox causes more problems
than the main sail furling gearbox. Is that right? Is the latter just less
exposed to the elements?

thanks, Mark

SM331


[Amel] Re: SM2000 Lewmar Winches

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Kent:

The pawls and springs are the same for all winches on our SM. The crescent keys are the same for all winches as well. I found these crescent keys at Island Water World in St. Georges, Grenada. Buy one small overhaul kit and it should provide you ample springs and pawls. As for servicing the winch motors, I have not done that. I suppose there could be brushes that could require servicing. The drive shaft for the motors also have a lip seal that could theoretically need to be replaced as the rubber might deteriorate. I have not done either of those services.

All the best,

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Thanks Gary.テつ Very concise explanation.テつ Are the pawls and springs the same in all size winches we have on SM2K's?テつ Right now I'm hoping to be able to order what I'll need but don't know the sizes of the winches that I'm going to be working on.
Kent


Amel for Sale

Eric Freedman
 

Hi,

Someone sent me a private email interested in buying a used Amel in the NY
area.

One is coming on the market soon. I believe it is a super Maramu about 1998.

It is located in Huntington, Long Island



Please contact me via email

.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


CAVITATING NOISE

LaFrance <pflafrance@...>
 

We recently noticed a new noise and vibration/cavitation when running our 75 HP Yanmar engine at revs between 1500 and 2300. No noise /cavitation on rpms outside this range. We thought at first there might be something wrong with the Autoprop. We have since changed it out with the fixed prop and the noise/cavitation sound is still there. There is no water immulsification in the oil so we think the shaft seals are staight and true from the prop.
Has any one had this problem and had to deal with it or if there are other suggestions it would be appreciated.

Paul & Sue LaFrance
SV NOMAD SM #362
Currently in Bristol, RI


Re: [Amel] Maramu out haul gear box

Mark Hayden
 

Eric,

Thanks for the comment. Your pictures/diagrams were very helpful in removing the shaft. I posted a picture of the bracket I used in your SM Outhaul Service photo group as another approach to getting the shaft out that avoids bringing out the ol' sledge hammer. Hopefully it will be helpful.

After spending severals days getting that apart, I will be following your lead with servicing it every year.

Did you ever find a good US source for the Leroy-Somers gearboxes?

thanks, Mark

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Mark,

I had the same problem last year. I finally resorted to removing the boom
turning it upside down. I then supported it on wood blocks.

I installed a black grade cap screw in the hole in the shaft until it was
flush. I then did go medieval on it with a large sledge hammer. It did come
out after about 15 swings. I now use an antiseize compound from McMaster
Carr every 6 months.

As a ps the shaft comes out easier if you remove the screw from the arm that
goes into the Antal winch drum.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2011 6:27 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Maramu out haul gear box





It seems like quite a few people are tackling the problems servicing their
outhaul gearboxes. I happened to notice the other day that the top lip seal
was shot on mine and started on a two day project to disassemble the
gearbox.

I tried just about everything to get the inner shaft removed, except
"getting medieval with a sledge hammer" as one of the other owners
demonstrated. After bending several 8mm steel brackets and breaking my
puller tool, we finally succeeded with a 20mm thick steal bracket that was
fabricated for the purpose. The nice thing about the approach that finally
succeeded for us was that all the force was placed on the outer shaft of the
gearbox, none on the boom or the other components of the gearbox. I'll post
a picture when I have a chance.

I found the model information posted by one of the other owners here:

Manufacturer: LS Leroy Somer
Made in France
6015 Angoulene
Reducteur N 0256889
Type MVA M33C
Rduction 1/60

I have not been able to reach Leroy Somer via their contact page. Can anyone
recommend a reliable and inexpensive source to order the gearbox or parts
from? Any pricing info?

One other question: it seems that the outhaul gearbox causes more problems
than the main sail furling gearbox. Is that right? Is the latter just less
exposed to the elements?

thanks, Mark

SM331





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches

karkauai
 

Thank you, Mike.ツ As KRISTY is 12 years old now and I don't think she was maintained the last 4-5 years before I bought her, I'm trying to go over everything systematically to avoid things going bad while I'm out cruising.ツ (At least as much as possible.)ツ I'll have a look at those bolts and drain holes while I'm at it.ツ Would you do anything with the motors themselves if all was working OK?
Kent
SM243
KRISTY


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: SM2000 Lewmar Winches

karkauai
 

Thanks Gary.ツ Very concise explanation.ツ Are the pawls and springs the same in all size winches we have on SM2K's?ツ Right now I'm hoping to be able to order what I'll need but don't know the sizes of the winches that I'm going to be working on.
Kent

--- On Sun, 6/12/11, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


From: amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: SM2000 Lewmar Winches
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, June 12, 2011, 10:36 PM






Hi Kent:

I have overhauled my winches multiple times. Lewmar used to recommend that you overhaul the winches 2-3 times per season. If you did that you would not sail, just overhaul winches. How often you overhaul depends somewhat on your usage. Using my boat for 6 months a year and then having it on the hard for 6 months with the winches covered I have found the following over the last 10 years. The winches on the main mast need to be overhauled at least yearly. Due to the mounting angle and their exposure to salt spray they seem to need the most attention. If you really wanted to be punctilious you would do them every six months. The winches in the cockpit probably only need to be overhauled every couple of years, possibly every 3-4 years. Last month, I did the cockpit winches after not having done them for 2 years and they were pristine. I lightly cleaned and lubed them. The winches on the mizzen probably need to be done at least every two years. I have not
replaced a single part on any of my winches. The pawls, gears, springs, pins etc are almost all new in appearance. I haven't found any wear items. The only thing you might order is a couple of pawls, a half dozen of the small pawl springs (usually because they are so small and while installing one will let go and fly overboard). Some Lewmar grease (I buy the tub, and a small bottle of Lewmar light machine oil). Over greasing is probably the biggest mistake. Here is my routine:

I take a bucket to the winch to be serviced and lash it below the winch. I use a wooden dowel and mallet to unscrew the winch cap. Once the cap is removed, the two crescent keys are removed. On the main mast theses are usually the most encrusted and corroded items. I just place all these items in the bucket. Next the winch handle shaft is withdrawn, then the pins that hold the various gears are removed while supporting and capturing the ears. Back in the cockpit, I do the dishes so to speak. I clean everything in mineral spirits while taking care to remove all the pawls and springs, plastic inserts etc. As I clean everything I find that laying them out on a cookie sheet or plastic pan with an absorbent towel in the bottom keeps things clean and aids in drying. Make absolutely sure all the solvent is gone before re-greasing. I remove the self tailing stuff by unscrewing the several phillips head screws. Once everything is cleaned and any corrosion removed
you lightly grease everything and put one drop of oil on each pawl/pawl recess. Reassemble in the reverse order of assembly. Again, I have found the most commonly corroded items are the crescent keys and the small coil springs that are part of the self tailings plastic apparatus. On the 58s you have to remove some large screws in order to remove the spindle etc from the drive gears.

There is nothing difficult about this, just somewhat tedious. Do pay attention to the angle that the self tailing finger comes off the winch, so that you can replace it in the same position upon reassembly. Make sure that you clean and re-grease the spindle that is mounted to the boat.

All the best,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona Amel SM2000 Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Kent" <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi again everyone,
I'm trying to put together a list of spares and rebuild kits I'll need when I go back down to Trinidad to do some maintenance chores on KRISTY. I need to clean and overhaul all the winches but don't know what size rebuild kits to order. Does anyone have a list of the winches on the SM2000 they would share with me? Does anyone have any suggestions about doing this task other than what is on the Lewmar videos? Are there any particular parts that seem to break down faster than others? What should I do regarding the electric motors on the jib and main sheet winches?

I should add that everything seems to be working fine, but that the winches all seem a little stiffer than they were 1 1/2 years ago when I had them all serviced in Deltaville.

Thanks as usual for your help and advice,
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Dark windows on SM

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Thanks John, Is Penetrol a boat product or domestic..... never heard of it! Just wonder if its available here in Europe or the UK?Cheers Judy 'Pen Azen'

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: symoondog@hotmail.com
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 22:23:38 +0000
Subject: RE: [Amel] Dark windows on SM


I use Penetrol, The same as I use on the deck. It seems to do a good job. John '''moon Dog"



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 16:15:16 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Dark windows on SM







HiHas anyone got a magic potion/cream/spray/idea as to how to keep the dark perspex windows on the SM looking dark rather than chalky?CheersIan & JudyPen Azen SM302San Carles - Spain











------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches

Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@...>
 

Kent,
ツツツ I've found over the years, doing winches, that most people use too much grease. As the volatiles in the grease leach out, the grease becomes stiff and stops the spring pawls working properly.
ツツ It is far better to use a modest amount, (just a little more than the classic "thin film") and service annually. I clean all the old grease off using a cheap paint brush, a plastic washing up bowl, and kerosene, then dry with kitchen tissue.
ツツ Unless your winches have been worked very hard, or are over about 20 years old, about the only spares you need on a Lewmar winch are the little pawl springs. Even then, that is because they can flip out of your fingers as you service and you lose them!

ツツツ I do mine annually, irrespective of condition, but the classic test is to rotate slowly, byツ hand, and listen to the "click - click" of the pawls. A crisp quick "click - click" and a free rotation means all is usually well.
ツツ Also, about every 2-3 years I check the main winch frame bolts, and the winch frame limber holes. The bolts are stainless holding down an alloy frame - I use a barrier compound, but I have seen soft plastic washers used. The frame limber holes must be clear to prevent water build up .ツ
ツツ Hope this helps

Mike
SN027 Akwaaba


________________________________
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 2:14 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches



Thanks, Barb.ツ Maybe he'll still have your info and can tell me the size winches on the SM.
Kent

--- On Sun, 6/12/11, Barbara Nairne <surfskis2002@yahoo.com.au> wrote:

From: Barbara Nairne <surfskis2002@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Sunday, June 12, 2011, 6:31 PM



Hi,
We are in the process of rebuilding our Lewmar 56 starboard winch.
Mike at the below website sent all the info and was most helpful.

http://www.winchspares.com/

Our winches were are pre 1992 which meant the Lewmar dealer had no stock of spares.

Cheers
Barb

From: Kent <karkauai@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 13 June 2011 5:43 AM
Subject: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches



Hi again everyone,
I'm trying to put together a list of spares and rebuild kits I'll need when I go back down to Trinidad to do some maintenance chores on KRISTY. I need to clean and overhaul all the winches but don't know what size rebuild kits to order. Does anyone have a list of the winches on the SM2000 they would share with me? Does anyone have any suggestions about doing this task other than what is on the Lewmar videos? Are there any particular parts that seem to break down faster than others? What should I do regarding the electric motors on the jib and main sheet winches?

I should add that everything seems to be working fine, but that the winches all seem a little stiffer than they were 1 1/2 years ago when I had them all serviced in Deltaville.

Thanks as usual for your help and advice,
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: SM2000 Lewmar Winches

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Kent:

I have overhauled my winches multiple times. Lewmar used to recommend that you overhaul the winches 2-3 times per season. If you did that you would not sail, just overhaul winches. How often you overhaul depends somewhat on your usage. Using my boat for 6 months a year and then having it on the hard for 6 months with the winches covered I have found the following over the last 10 years. The winches on the main mast need to be overhauled at least yearly. Due to the mounting angle and their exposure to salt spray they seem to need the most attention. If you really wanted to be punctilious you would do them every six months. The winches in the cockpit probably only need to be overhauled every couple of years, possibly every 3-4 years. Last month, I did the cockpit winches after not having done them for 2 years and they were pristine. I lightly cleaned and lubed them. The winches on the mizzen probably need to be done at least every two years. I have not replaced a single part on any of my winches. The pawls, gears, springs, pins etc are almost all new in appearance. I haven't found any wear items. The only thing you might order is a couple of pawls, a half dozen of the small pawl springs (usually because they are so small and while installing one will let go and fly overboard). Some Lewmar grease (I buy the tub, and a small bottle of Lewmar light machine oil). Over greasing is probably the biggest mistake. Here is my routine:

I take a bucket to the winch to be serviced and lash it below the winch. I use a wooden dowel and mallet to unscrew the winch cap. Once the cap is removed, the two crescent keys are removed. On the main mast theses are usually the most encrusted and corroded items. I just place all these items in the bucket. Next the winch handle shaft is withdrawn, then the pins that hold the various gears are removed while supporting and capturing the ears. Back in the cockpit, I do the dishes so to speak. I clean everything in mineral spirits while taking care to remove all the pawls and springs, plastic inserts etc. As I clean everything I find that laying them out on a cookie sheet or plastic pan with an absorbent towel in the bottom keeps things clean and aids in drying. Make absolutely sure all the solvent is gone before re-greasing. I remove the self tailing stuff by unscrewing the several phillips head screws. Once everything is cleaned and any corrosion removed you lightly grease everything and put one drop of oil on each pawl/pawl recess. Reassemble in the reverse order of assembly. Again, I have found the most commonly corroded items are the crescent keys and the small coil springs that are part of the self tailings plastic apparatus. On the 58s you have to remove some large screws in order to remove the spindle etc from the drive gears.

There is nothing difficult about this, just somewhat tedious. Do pay attention to the angle that the self tailing finger comes off the winch, so that you can replace it in the same position upon reassembly. Make sure that you clean and re-grease the spindle that is mounted to the boat.

All the best,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona Amel SM2000 Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Kent" <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi again everyone,
I'm trying to put together a list of spares and rebuild kits I'll need when I go back down to Trinidad to do some maintenance chores on KRISTY. I need to clean and overhaul all the winches but don't know what size rebuild kits to order. Does anyone have a list of the winches on the SM2000 they would share with me? Does anyone have any suggestions about doing this task other than what is on the Lewmar videos? Are there any particular parts that seem to break down faster than others? What should I do regarding the electric motors on the jib and main sheet winches?

I should add that everything seems to be working fine, but that the winches all seem a little stiffer than they were 1 1/2 years ago when I had them all serviced in Deltaville.

Thanks as usual for your help and advice,
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY


Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches

karkauai
 

Thanks, Barb.ツ Maybe he'll still have your info and can tell me the size winches on the SM.
Kent

--- On Sun, 6/12/11, Barbara Nairne <surfskis2002@yahoo.com.au> wrote:


From: Barbara Nairne <surfskis2002@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Sunday, June 12, 2011, 6:31 PM






Hi,
We are in the process of rebuilding our Lewmar 56 starboard winch.
Mike at the below website sent all the info and was most helpful.

http://www.winchspares.com/

Our winches were are pre 1992 which meant the Lewmar dealer had no stock of spares.

Cheers
Barb

From: Kent <karkauai@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 13 June 2011 5:43 AM
Subject: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches



Hi again everyone,
I'm trying to put together a list of spares and rebuild kits I'll need when I go back down to Trinidad to do some maintenance chores on KRISTY. I need to clean and overhaul all the winches but don't know what size rebuild kits to order. Does anyone have a list of the winches on the SM2000 they would share with me? Does anyone have any suggestions about doing this task other than what is on the Lewmar videos? Are there any particular parts that seem to break down faster than others? What should I do regarding the electric motors on the jib and main sheet winches?

I should add that everything seems to be working fine, but that the winches all seem a little stiffer than they were 1 1/2 years ago when I had them all serviced in Deltaville.

Thanks as usual for your help and advice,
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches

Barbara Nairne
 

Hi,
We are in the process of rebuilding our Lewmar 56 starboard winch.
Mike at the below website sent all the info and was most helpful.

http://www.winchspares.com/

Our winches were are pre 1992 which meant the Lewmar dealer had no stock of spares.

Cheers
Barb

From: Kent <karkauai@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 13 June 2011 5:43 AM
Subject: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches




Hi again everyone,
I'm trying to put together a list of spares and rebuild kits I'll need when I go back down to Trinidad to do some maintenance chores on KRISTY. I need to clean and overhaul all the winches but don't know what size rebuild kits to order. Does anyone have a list of the winches on the SM2000 they would share with me? Does anyone have any suggestions about doing this task other than what is on the Lewmar videos? Are there any particular parts that seem to break down faster than others? What should I do regarding the electric motors on the jib and main sheet winches?

I should add that everything seems to be working fine, but that the winches all seem a little stiffer than they were 1 1/2 years ago when I had them all serviced in Deltaville.

Thanks as usual for your help and advice,
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY


Re: [Amel] Dark windows on SM

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

I use Penetrol, The same as I use on the deck. It seems to do a good job. John '''moon Dog"



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 16:15:16 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Dark windows on SM







HiHas anyone got a magic potion/cream/spray/idea as to how to keep the dark perspex windows on the SM looking dark rather than chalky?CheersIan & JudyPen Azen SM302San Carles - Spain

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