Date   

Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

If you want to clean the winches by yourself I recommended you to do the
work *_with an ultrasonic washer_*
it coast between 50-100 euros and You can also clean many other thinks
(engine injectors, etc..)
results : 1 to 2 ours per winch :-)
jluc
cottonbay
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Le 17/06/2011 15:18, john martin a écrit :
Hi Kent,

I think you are worrying too much about your winches. They rarely break down, and if they do, it is no disaster.

But if you really want to get them cleaned professionally in Trinidad, try Winch Works, a fellow named Ian Chai Hong. Phone 633-5389 home and cell 774-0808. He is very knowledgable about winches - that's all he does. He quoted me US$75 to US$125 per winch, which was way too high for me. He also quoted me US$500 to overhaul the outhaul winch and gear box on the main boom. His quote included new seals in the box and painting it. He said he had a special puller to get the shaft out. I thought that was a decent price if the thing was actually broken down but it was working fine and I didn't think paying $500 for maintenance made sense. I believe in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Anyhow, I was very impressed with this fellow's knowledge of winches and of Amels. I just wasn't impressed with his prices. (Another reason we left Trinidad and went to Venezuela to get our serious boat projects done.)

Regarding your electric motors on the cockpit winches, I wouldn't even think about taking them apart to clean them or whatever. They are factory sealed, used very little really, and are probably like new inside. Even if they quit it would be a mild inconvenience. Head the boat into the wind and hand pull and hand crank on the thing. Also remember those types of electric motors are not rocket science and can be readily repaired in most any 3rd world country.

John
MOON DOG
SM 248




To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: karkauai@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 13:26:01 -0700
Subject: Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches






Thanks Chris, that's what I needed to hear. I'll pull the motors when I clean the winches and find someone in Chaguaramas who can service them.
Kent

--- On Tue, 6/14/11, Chris Smither<yachtakwaaba@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Chris Smither<yachtakwaaba@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com"<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 14, 2011, 8:43 AM



Kent,
All mine are manual, but it is a good thing to have DC motors checked every 10 years or so
The carbon brushes gradually wear away, and leave a residue of carbon on the commutator. This should be cleaned off and the gaps between the copper strips cleared of any build up. This is a simple but skilled job, so if you are uncertain, better get a good electrician to do it. If the brushes are worn below 50%, I, personally, would replace them whilst you have the motor in bits.
Most DC motors use standard brushes, probably a standardeuropean size - your dificulty will be to find the equivalent, but there again an electrician used to dealing with DC motors should have access to equivalents.

Good luck- Mike

PS: remember Murphy's second law of yachting "Interchangeable parts don't"

________________________________
From: Kent Robertson<karkauai@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches


Thank you, Mike. As KRISTY is 12 years old now and I don't think she was maintained the last 4-5 years before I bought her, I'm trying to go over everything systematically to avoid things going bad while I'm out cruising. (At least as much as possible.) I'll have a look at those bolts and drain holes while I'm at it. Would you do anything with the motors themselves if all was working OK?
Kent
SM243
KRISTY



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------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Hi Kent,

I think you are worrying too much about your winches. They rarely break down, and if they do, it is no disaster.

But if you really want to get them cleaned professionally in Trinidad, try Winch Works, a fellow named Ian Chai Hong. Phone 633-5389 home and cell 774-0808. He is very knowledgable about winches - that's all he does. He quoted me US$75 to US$125 per winch, which was way too high for me. He also quoted me US$500 to overhaul the outhaul winch and gear box on the main boom. His quote included new seals in the box and painting it. He said he had a special puller to get the shaft out. I thought that was a decent price if the thing was actually broken down but it was working fine and I didn't think paying $500 for maintenance made sense. I believe in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Anyhow, I was very impressed with this fellow's knowledge of winches and of Amels. I just wasn't impressed with his prices. (Another reason we left Trinidad and went to Venezuela to get our serious boat projects done.)

Regarding your electric motors on the cockpit winches, I wouldn't even think about taking them apart to clean them or whatever. They are factory sealed, used very little really, and are probably like new inside. Even if they quit it would be a mild inconvenience. Head the boat into the wind and hand pull and hand crank on the thing. Also remember those types of electric motors are not rocket science and can be readily repaired in most any 3rd world country.

John
MOON DOG
SM 248




To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: karkauai@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 13:26:01 -0700
Subject: Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches






Thanks Chris, that's what I needed to hear. I'll pull the motors when I clean the winches and find someone in Chaguaramas who can service them.
Kent

--- On Tue, 6/14/11, Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 14, 2011, 8:43 AM



Kent,
All mine are manual, but it is a good thing to have DC motors checked every 10 years or so
The carbon brushes gradually wear away, and leave a residue of carbon on the commutator. This should be cleaned off and the gaps between the copper strips cleared of any build up. This is a simple but skilled job, so if you are uncertain, better get a good electrician to do it. If the brushes are worn below 50%, I, personally, would replace them whilst you have the motor in bits.
Most DC motors use standard brushes, probably a standardeuropean size - your dificulty will be to find the equivalent, but there again an electrician used to dealing with DC motors should have access to equivalents.

Good luck- Mike

PS: remember Murphy's second law of yachting "Interchangeable parts don't"

________________________________
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] SM2000 Lewmar Winches


Thank you, Mike. As KRISTY is 12 years old now and I don't think she was maintained the last 4-5 years before I bought her, I'm trying to go over everything systematically to avoid things going bad while I'm out cruising. (At least as much as possible.) I'll have a look at those bolts and drain holes while I'm at it. Would you do anything with the motors themselves if all was working OK?
Kent
SM243
KRISTY



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Wearing Ring replacement

John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Hi Mark, If you take the wearing ring out and take it to a machine shop they will be able to make an identical one very quickly!
Anne and John, Sm 319


Re: [Amel] Re: Hotbox that is leaking

kimberlite <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi,

Here are the instructions I received From Ian Jenkins years ago about
replacing the wearing out bearing and 3 lip seals.

Make sure that the lip seals that you purchase have non magnetic stainless
seals the eBay company does not have them. This installation also refers to
the assembly with an autoprop with a line cutter, so if you do not have an
autoprop ignore that section.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



HOW TO STRIP DOWN PROPELLER AND STERN GLAND





You will need a 24mm spanner or ratchet in addition to usual tools plus the
following allen keys 3mm, 4mm, 1/8th and 9/64ths.



1. Undo the 3 nylon bolts holding on the red nose. This reveals the
nut secured by an allen key. Round the side of the allen key may need
cleaning. The allen key needs quite a lot of pressure to shift it.
2. Once the allen key is removed, the big central nut will also take a
lot of pressure to undo. You need a block of wood about 12” square and 2”
thick. This rests between one of the prop blades and the horizontal surface
of the keel below to keep the shaft still.
3. Having loosened the big nut, but before it is removed, put in place
the 3-bolt remover. Each of the 3 bolts goes home. Then put a big spanner
on the centre bolt and assist by ‘tapping-in’ the centre bolt lightly with a
hammer. The bolt takes a lot of shifting, about ¼ of a turn per effort,
tapping also on the shaft between the prop and the prop-cutter (quite hard).
4. When the big bolt turns freely, unscrew the 3-bolt remover, remove
the centre nut and the whole prop.
5. Remove the collar and clean off the outside of the cutter blade.
6. Tap out the key on the stainless steel shaft – tap fore and aft and
it will come.
7. Undo the allen keys on the cutter. NB at least one of these is a
non metric key! ALSO when holding the shaft do so with a rag or glove as
the key-housing is very sharp.
8. Loosen the large nut with a V in it - which is below the stainless
steel shaft. Before removing it put a wide funnel, hose and container under
it. Be prepared for the oil to spurt out. It will take about an hour to
drain. It is not necessary to open the oil reservoir inside the boat.
9. Having removed this large nut and drained the oil, dig out the
narrow seal (against which the inboard end of the nut rests) with a
screw-driver.
10. To put BACK this big nut, check the O ring on it, put silicon on it
plus a new seal to replace the seal taken out under 9. Replace the seal on
the nut shaft with silicon on the boat-side of the seal. When the nut is
tightened up the V should be vertical.
11. To extract the ‘wearing out ring’ (which I refer to as the bronze
bearing), undo the 2 allen keys and use a screwdriver to lever against the
allen key or tap out the bronze bearing using a hammer and chisel - the
chisel pointing obliquely aft.
12. Once the bronze bearing is out, take a big screw-driver and dig out
the 3 rubber seals.
13. With a small blade clean the surface of the in situ (female) part of
the bearing. Also with sandpaper clean the aft-part of the internal surface
having sealed inboard with some tissue (the seals sit slightly in from the
aft edge of the in situ bearing so there can be a build-up of calcium here).
After cleaning remove tissue!


14. Before replacing bronze bearing with its 3 seals, you need to make
sure that the O ring on the inside of the new bronze bearing will fit
properly. To do so, push the new bronze bearing home without fitting the
seals. It should go with a hard push from your hands. If it doesn’t, try a
different O ring, as they are not all absolutely identical.
15. Once you are happy with the O ring fit, fill each rubber seal with
grease plus a very small amount on the edge of the in situ bearing to assist
entry. Use the old bronze bearing to push in the first, subsequently the
second and subsequently the third (i.e. do not put all 3 in at the same
time) NB The first 2 seals have the hollow section facing forward, the
3rd has the hollow section facing aft. ALSO it helps in
tapping home the old bronze bearing to use a pipe with a greater diameter
than the shaft, one end of which you can rest against the outer face of the
old bronze bearing and the other end of which you can tap with a hammer.
16. Having tapped home the 3 seals so that the 3rd seal is about 10mm
inset, remove the old bronze bearing and push in the new bearing so that it
is hard up against the outboard seal. THEN ease the bronze bearing aft 2mm
so that it is not actually touching the seal. This will leave the 2 allen
keys on the bronze bearing about 2 to 3 mm aft of the in situ bearing and
the widest part of the bronze bearing will be about 2mm inside the in situ
bearing. Tighten these allen keys.
17. Replace the thin rubber ring on the shaft ahead of the stripper.
18. Fit a new anode on the stripper. When reassembled this anode fits
inside the V on the big nut. Tighten the two pairs of allen keys to secure
the stripper to the shaft.
19. Replace the rubber ring aft of the stripper.
20. Replace the key in the stainless steel shaft.
21. Clean the inside of the prop and put the prop back on the shaft,
lining up the slot on the prop with the key. Tighten up the 24mm nut really
tight, to fasten the prop to the shaft and replace the allen key against a
flat side of the nut using Loctite.
22. Replace the nylon nose without greasing the 3 nylon nuts.
23. Take this opportunity to re-grease the prop through the allen key
holes on each blade and hub. These do not need Loctite on replacement.
24. Refill the leg with 15w40 oil through the reservoir – it will take 8
to 9 litres.
25. When draining the BOW THRUSTER TUBE capture the oil in a transparent
container to see if there is any water in it. If there is, change the seal
between the prop and the leg.







_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 2:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Hotbox that is leaking





Barb,

You should probably contact Amel for the brass "wear bushing." The seals may
be available locally, but if Amel is shipping you the wear bushing, the
seals will not substantially increase the freight cost, and you may want to
order a set for the next time...and you may want to order seals and nylon
propeller screws to service the Bow Thruster.

You may be able to have a wear bushing made at a machine shop (turned on a
lathe). If you do this, do not forget about the O ring on the inside of the
wear bushing...if this is forgotten, the oil will leak at this point.

The 3 seals you need are Metric Oil Shaft Seals 45cm x 65cm x 08cm Double
Lip. Note the orientation of the 3 seals, two one way and one the
other...refer to the instructions. The wear bushing does just what its name
says. The turning of the propeller shaft against the seals will cause small
groves to be created. The wear bushing protects the propeller shaft because
the wear bushing meets the seals instead of the shaft.

Check with the previous owner to locate the Amel-supplied prop puller...it
will make the job much easier. Again follow the instructions, tapping around
the prop hub while the puller is tight, and the prop will pop loose.

If you run into trouble, email me at bill "at" svbebe.com, substituting the
"at" with a @.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Athens, Greece

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Barbara Nairne
<surfskis2002@...> wrote:

Hi
Thank you so very much for your assistance. Of course I will remove the
album - I wasn't too sure exactly what I was doing when creating the photo.
We are hauling out next week and the local marina workmen are not too
helpful and it is just so reassuring t get help from the group.
We have Super Maramu 1991 No.39.
Â
Regards




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


head removal

Victoria Stewart harper
 

Hi,On my boat the toilet hold down screws went into tapped plates embedded in the fiberglass so there was no problem until the base cracked and the replacement had different hole positions.I then used large diameter (1/4 or 3/16) self tappers which have been removed many times in the last five or so years with no problem.Be careful to avoid the encapsulated plates.John HarperSM310 JOVIC


Re: [Amel] Digest Number 2356

george cerillo
 

Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!

----- Reply message -----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thu, Jun 16, 2011 7:44 am
Subject: [Amel] Digest Number 2356
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>


Re: [Amel] Jabsco toilet removal

georges
 

Yes you can. I did it already in the front. In the rear toilets I did not
since all 4 bolts look seized and I was afraid to break them.

Georges Pellegrini - Santorin # 132 (I think we met in Leros 2 or 3 years
ago)

On Thu, Jun 16, 2011 at 1:39 PM, jonathan681684 <jestonier@gmail.com> wrote:



if I unbolt and remove the whole Jabsco toilet assembly from the shower
floor, will I be able to bolt it back without having to lift the shower
floor to get access from the other side ?

thx

john Stonier Santorin #143



Re: [Amel] Dark windows on SM

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Hi Ian,

Penetrol is the US brand name and I think Polytrol is the European version. There are a bunch of posts on the Amel site about them. It is an additive for oil-based paint and the can says it can also be used to recondition fiberglass. I haven't found it does a great job on regular fiberglass but I like to put it on the faux decks as it gives them a little shine. It can make them a tiny bit slippery but not bad and that wears off with aging. I try to put a coat on every six months. Takes about an hour but of course you need to clean the decks and get them good and dry first.

John
MOON DOG
SM248



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 14:40:33 +0000
Subject: RE: [Amel] Dark windows on SM







Thanks John, Is Penetrol a boat product or domestic..... never heard of it! Just wonder if its available here in Europe or the UK?Cheers Judy 'Pen Azen'

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: symoondog@hotmail.com
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 22:23:38 +0000
Subject: RE: [Amel] Dark windows on SM


I use Penetrol, The same as I use on the deck. It seems to do a good job. John '''moon Dog"



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 16:15:16 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Dark windows on SM







HiHas anyone got a magic potion/cream/spray/idea as to how to keep the dark perspex windows on the SM looking dark rather than chalky?CheersIan & JudyPen Azen SM302San Carles - Spain

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



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Re: [Amel] Re: Hotbox that is leaking

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

You can find the seals by looking in this site history file. The bushings come from Amel.
SM 209 FOR SALE IN ANNAPOLIS
Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

"brokerage beyond your expectations"

On Jun 16, 2011, at 1:37, "Barb" <surfskis2002@yahoo.com.au> wrote:

Hi,
I have just received following from the people who are going to do the work on the stuffing box - I have emailed AMEL to see if they have the needed parts but if anyone knows of another source it would be appreciated as we are booked for Wednesday on slip to do the bowthruster and propellor and stern gland maintenance.

"Just looking at your emails now and the shaft seal assembly has three seals and one solid brass bushing which covers the three seals…..I have just got the photos and that does not really help….sorry, but I am having no success as I need OD and ID of the 3 seals and the dimensions for the solid brass bush."

Cheers
Mark Wright
Director
Wright Yacht & Boat Services

Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No.39
1991

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Barb,

The best way to get help from this group is to always tell us what model (Mango, Maramu, Super Maramu, 54, etc) and your hull number. Also, when you upload a photo for us to look at, it is helpful if you tell us where to look for it.

I see that you created a new album named "HotBox" and posted the photo there. You should know that only person that can remove an album is the person who created it. Also, you are the only one that can delete or move your photos. If all 700 users created photo albums for many miscellaneous uses, the photo section would become unusable. So when this part is identified, be sure to move it to the appropriate existing album. If there is not an appropriate existing album, then create one that we all can add to in the future.

It is not my place to say any of the above, but I use and enjoy this Group and also have found it very valuable. So I am being selfish in asking that a certain amount of care is taken when adding to the Photos and Files sections of this website.

All of that said, I am guessing that you have an early model Super Maramu and that what you call a HotBox is the oil reservoir for the Amel U Drive. If I am correct about an early Super Maramu, it is very likely that the propeller shaft "wear bushing" and 3 lip seals need replacing and you are loosing oil at this point.

If I am correct, go to the Files section of this website and download and read "Wear Bushing and Seals Replacement 3-5-09.pdf" You can link directly to the download here: http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/sJD4TUotyKA7eZq94R2LQ52OoIMU1uSEmx8Xe9mucZgjToVIXYbZMxFSk-fGP9DNGaHAm4_1OvNeflj29qLJ1kiIi1k/Wear%20Bushing%20and%20Seals%20Replacement%203-5-09.pdf

Hopefully your next haulout is scheduled soon and you can do this then. My guess is that if you are losing oil i.e. not gaining sea water, that you can delay the haulout for months by continuing to add oil. If you are also gaining sea water (oil turning to a milk shake consistency, you should seek some expert advice as to how long you can delay the haulout.

Also, read "BOW THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf" in the Files section. Bow Thruster service and wear bushing service should be performed each haulout to eliminate unscheduled haulouts.

I hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Athens, Greece
Blog: http://www.svbebe.com

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Barb" <surfskis2002@> wrote:

Hi all,
I have posted two photos - one showing the oil resevoir which is loosing oil taking SAE15-40 - which feeds into what we call in Australia a hotbox (dogbox). All the lines seem to be okay but it would appear we may need new seals. Does anyone know or recognise this box type that may enable us to order some new seals before we take it all apart!!!!!

Thanks again.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Jabsco toilet removal

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

What you have to do is install 2 access ports on the floor to do the replacement. We did it on our first Amel. 100 mm 4" ports work well.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

"brokerage beyond your expectations"

On Jun 16, 2011, at 6:39, "jonathan681684" <jestonier@gmail.com> wrote:

if I unbolt and remove the whole Jabsco toilet assembly from the shower floor, will I be able to bolt it back without having to lift the shower floor to get access from the other side ?

thx

john Stonier Santorin #143


Jabsco toilet removal

jonathan681684
 

if I unbolt and remove the whole Jabsco toilet assembly from the shower floor, will I be able to bolt it back without having to lift the shower floor to get access from the other side ?

thx

john Stonier Santorin #143


Wearing ring, prop shaft bearing, SM 319

John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Any good machinist would be able to make a new wear ring. I have just had one made here in Malta using phosphor bronze (at a cost of 80 euros,£70 or US$114).which is what the old one also made in Malta was made of. The old one was two years old but still in pretty good shape.
I imagine that I could have reused the old one if I had put the oil seals on the other way round thus changing the position of the wear. The machinist will also know where to get new seals which are 45 x 65.If the old seals have good springs in stainless these can be reused if the new ones are suspect.
To remove the prop I used the puller which I got from Bruntons but again a machinist could easily make one up.Having done up the puller very tight I heated the propellor boss in front of the blades with a blow torch and it was not very hot when the prop came loose. Do not forget to anti foul the prop as the Autoprop will not work well even with slight fouling. When it is anti fouled then take out the plugs on it's bearings and inject grease until it oozes out clean from the other plug hole. From memory the grease is injected through the centre plug hole and will not go in if you do it the othr way round..or vice versa as I am not certain which!
The instructions in the files section are excellent and I would be very happy if someone more nerdy than me added these comments to the end.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319


[Amel] Re: Hotbox that is leaking

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Barb,

You should probably contact Amel for the brass "wear bushing." The seals may be available locally, but if Amel is shipping you the wear bushing, the seals will not substantially increase the freight cost, and you may want to order a set for the next time...and you may want to order seals and nylon propeller screws to service the Bow Thruster.

You may be able to have a wear bushing made at a machine shop (turned on a lathe). If you do this, do not forget about the O ring on the inside of the wear bushing...if this is forgotten, the oil will leak at this point.

The 3 seals you need are Metric Oil Shaft Seals 45cm x 65cm x 08cm Double Lip. Note the orientation of the 3 seals, two one way and one the other...refer to the instructions. The wear bushing does just what its name says. The turning of the propeller shaft against the seals will cause small groves to be created. The wear bushing protects the propeller shaft because the wear bushing meets the seals instead of the shaft.

Check with the previous owner to locate the Amel-supplied prop puller...it will make the job much easier. Again follow the instructions, tapping around the prop hub while the puller is tight, and the prop will pop loose.

If you run into trouble, email me at bill "at" svbebe.com, substituting the "at" with a @.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Athens, Greece

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Barbara Nairne <surfskis2002@...> wrote:

Hi
Thank you so very much for your assistance. Of course I will remove the album - I wasn't too sure exactly what I was doing when creating the photo.
We are hauling out next week and the local marina workmen are not too helpful and it is just so reassuring t get help from the group.
We have Super Maramu 1991 No.39.
 
Regards


Re: Hotbox that is leaking

Barbara Nairne
 

Hi,
I have just received following from the people who are going to do the work on the stuffing box - I have emailed AMEL to see if they have the needed parts but if anyone knows of another source it would be appreciated as we are booked for Wednesday on slip to do the bowthruster and propellor and stern gland maintenance.

"Just looking at your emails now and the shaft seal assembly has three seals and one solid brass bushing which covers the three seals…..I have just got the photos and that does not really help….sorry, but I am having no success as I need OD and ID of the 3 seals and the dimensions for the solid brass bush."

Cheers
Mark Wright
Director
Wright Yacht & Boat Services


Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No.39
1991

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Barb,

The best way to get help from this group is to always tell us what model (Mango, Maramu, Super Maramu, 54, etc) and your hull number. Also, when you upload a photo for us to look at, it is helpful if you tell us where to look for it.

I see that you created a new album named "HotBox" and posted the photo there. You should know that only person that can remove an album is the person who created it. Also, you are the only one that can delete or move your photos. If all 700 users created photo albums for many miscellaneous uses, the photo section would become unusable. So when this part is identified, be sure to move it to the appropriate existing album. If there is not an appropriate existing album, then create one that we all can add to in the future.

It is not my place to say any of the above, but I use and enjoy this Group and also have found it very valuable. So I am being selfish in asking that a certain amount of care is taken when adding to the Photos and Files sections of this website.

All of that said, I am guessing that you have an early model Super Maramu and that what you call a HotBox is the oil reservoir for the Amel U Drive. If I am correct about an early Super Maramu, it is very likely that the propeller shaft "wear bushing" and 3 lip seals need replacing and you are loosing oil at this point.

If I am correct, go to the Files section of this website and download and read "Wear Bushing and Seals Replacement 3-5-09.pdf" You can link directly to the download here: http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/sJD4TUotyKA7eZq94R2LQ52OoIMU1uSEmx8Xe9mucZgjToVIXYbZMxFSk-fGP9DNGaHAm4_1OvNeflj29qLJ1kiIi1k/Wear%20Bushing%20and%20Seals%20Replacement%203-5-09.pdf

Hopefully your next haulout is scheduled soon and you can do this then. My guess is that if you are losing oil i.e. not gaining sea water, that you can delay the haulout for months by continuing to add oil. If you are also gaining sea water (oil turning to a milk shake consistency, you should seek some expert advice as to how long you can delay the haulout.

Also, read "BOW THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf" in the Files section. Bow Thruster service and wear bushing service should be performed each haulout to eliminate unscheduled haulouts.

I hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Athens, Greece
Blog: http://www.svbebe.com

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Barb" <surfskis2002@> wrote:

Hi all,
I have posted two photos - one showing the oil resevoir which is loosing oil taking SAE15-40 - which feeds into what we call in Australia a hotbox (dogbox). All the lines seem to be okay but it would appear we may need new seals. Does anyone know or recognise this box type that may enable us to order some new seals before we take it all apart!!!!!

Thanks again.


the lip seals have steel springs

kimberlite <kimberlite@...>
 

It seems that this source used by a forum member sells the correct Lip seal
for the prop shaft but the springs are steel and the "stainless" ones also
have a lot of steel in them.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite









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Dear kimberlt,

The price is $34.95 for both. I can send them together USPS for free? But
you need to buy both and then I will send you an invoice without the
shipping charge on it.

As far as the springs the 8mm seal has a thicker spring than the 7mm seal. I
assume you can change them.

One note about the stainless steel springs from Asia is that they are
magnetic, I don't know if this is a factor or not for your application.

Jim.

- jimbo4real

Click "respond" to reply through Messages, or go to your email to reply


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<http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11051.m44.l1159/7?euid=f677087c99f84cfabbb73
504430ceb4e&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcontact.ebay.com%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FM2MCont
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_____

From: kimberlt
To: jimbo4real
Subject: Re: Other: kimberlt sent a message about 45x65x8 45 65 8 Rotary
Shaft Seals 45x65x8tc Seal #200575448250
Sent Date: Jun-14-11 16:10:13 PDT


Re: [Amel] Re: Hotbox that is leaking

Barbara Nairne
 

Hi
Thank you so very much for your assistance. Of course I will remove the album - I wasn't too sure exactly what I was doing when creating the photo.
We are hauling out next week and the local marina workmen are not too helpful and it is just so reassuring t get help from the group.
We have Super Maramu 1991 No.39.
 
Regards
Barb
 
 

From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, 15 June 2011 9:54 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Hotbox that is leaking


 

Barb,

The best way to get help from this group is to always tell us what model (Mango, Maramu, Super Maramu, 54, etc) and your hull number. Also, when you upload a photo for us to look at, it is helpful if you tell us where to look for it.

I see that you created a new album named "HotBox" and posted the photo there. You should know that only person that can remove an album is the person who created it. Also, you are the only one that can delete or move your photos. If all 700 users created photo albums for many miscellaneous uses, the photo section would become unusable. So when this part is identified, be sure to move it to the appropriate existing album. If there is not an appropriate existing album, then create one that we all can add to in the future.

It is not my place to say any of the above, but I use and enjoy this Group and also have found it very valuable. So I am being selfish in asking that a certain amount of care is taken when adding to the Photos and Files sections of this website.

All of that said, I am guessing that you have an early model Super Maramu and that what you call a HotBox is the oil reservoir for the Amel U Drive. If I am correct about an early Super Maramu, it is very likely that the propeller shaft "wear bushing" and 3 lip seals need replacing and you are loosing oil at this point.

If I am correct, go to the Files section of this website and download and read "Wear Bushing and Seals Replacement 3-5-09.pdf" You can link directly to the download here: http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/sJD4TUotyKA7eZq94R2LQ52OoIMU1uSEmx8Xe9mucZgjToVIXYbZMxFSk-fGP9DNGaHAm4_1OvNeflj29qLJ1kiIi1k/Wear%20Bushing%20and%20Seals%20Replacement%203-5-09.pdf

Hopefully your next haulout is scheduled soon and you can do this then. My guess is that if you are losing oil i.e. not gaining sea water, that you can delay the haulout for months by continuing to add oil. If you are also gaining sea water (oil turning to a milk shake consistency, you should seek some expert advice as to how long you can delay the haulout.

Also, read "BOW THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf" in the Files section. Bow Thruster service and wear bushing service should be performed each haulout to eliminate unscheduled haulouts.

I hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Athens, Greece
Blog: http://www.svbebe.com

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Barb" <surfskis2002@...> wrote:

Hi all,
I have posted two photos - one showing the oil resevoir which is loosing oil taking SAE15-40 - which feeds into what we call in Australia a hotbox (dogbox). All the lines seem to be okay but it would appear we may need new seals. Does anyone know or recognise this box type that may enable us to order some new seals before we take it all apart!!!!!

Thanks again.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Hotbox that is leaking

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Could not have said it better. Thanks
SM 209 for sale in Annapolis
Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

"brokerage beyond your expectations"

On Jun 15, 2011, at 7:54, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:

Barb,

The best way to get help from this group is to always tell us what model (Mango, Maramu, Super Maramu, 54, etc) and your hull number. Also, when you upload a photo for us to look at, it is helpful if you tell us where to look for it.

I see that you created a new album named "HotBox" and posted the photo there. You should know that only person that can remove an album is the person who created it. Also, you are the only one that can delete or move your photos. If all 700 users created photo albums for many miscellaneous uses, the photo section would become unusable. So when this part is identified, be sure to move it to the appropriate existing album. If there is not an appropriate existing album, then create one that we all can add to in the future.

It is not my place to say any of the above, but I use and enjoy this Group and also have found it very valuable. So I am being selfish in asking that a certain amount of care is taken when adding to the Photos and Files sections of this website.

All of that said, I am guessing that you have an early model Super Maramu and that what you call a HotBox is the oil reservoir for the Amel U Drive. If I am correct about an early Super Maramu, it is very likely that the propeller shaft "wear bushing" and 3 lip seals need replacing and you are loosing oil at this point.

If I am correct, go to the Files section of this website and download and read "Wear Bushing and Seals Replacement 3-5-09.pdf" You can link directly to the download here: http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/sJD4TUotyKA7eZq94R2LQ52OoIMU1uSEmx8Xe9mucZgjToVIXYbZMxFSk-fGP9DNGaHAm4_1OvNeflj29qLJ1kiIi1k/Wear%20Bushing%20and%20Seals%20Replacement%203-5-09.pdf

Hopefully your next haulout is scheduled soon and you can do this then. My guess is that if you are losing oil i.e. not gaining sea water, that you can delay the haulout for months by continuing to add oil. If you are also gaining sea water (oil turning to a milk shake consistency, you should seek some expert advice as to how long you can delay the haulout.

Also, read "BOW THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf" in the Files section. Bow Thruster service and wear bushing service should be performed each haulout to eliminate unscheduled haulouts.

I hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Athens, Greece
Blog: http://www.svbebe.com

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Barb" <surfskis2002@...> wrote:

Hi all,
I have posted two photos - one showing the oil resevoir which is loosing oil taking SAE15-40 - which feeds into what we call in Australia a hotbox (dogbox). All the lines seem to be okay but it would appear we may need new seals. Does anyone know or recognise this box type that may enable us to order some new seals before we take it all apart!!!!!

Thanks again.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Hotbox that is leaking

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Barb,

The best way to get help from this group is to always tell us what model (Mango, Maramu, Super Maramu, 54, etc) and your hull number. Also, when you upload a photo for us to look at, it is helpful if you tell us where to look for it.

I see that you created a new album named "HotBox" and posted the photo there. You should know that only person that can remove an album is the person who created it. Also, you are the only one that can delete or move your photos. If all 700 users created photo albums for many miscellaneous uses, the photo section would become unusable. So when this part is identified, be sure to move it to the appropriate existing album. If there is not an appropriate existing album, then create one that we all can add to in the future.

It is not my place to say any of the above, but I use and enjoy this Group and also have found it very valuable. So I am being selfish in asking that a certain amount of care is taken when adding to the Photos and Files sections of this website.

All of that said, I am guessing that you have an early model Super Maramu and that what you call a HotBox is the oil reservoir for the Amel U Drive. If I am correct about an early Super Maramu, it is very likely that the propeller shaft "wear bushing" and 3 lip seals need replacing and you are loosing oil at this point.

If I am correct, go to the Files section of this website and download and read "Wear Bushing and Seals Replacement 3-5-09.pdf" You can link directly to the download here: http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/sJD4TUotyKA7eZq94R2LQ52OoIMU1uSEmx8Xe9mucZgjToVIXYbZMxFSk-fGP9DNGaHAm4_1OvNeflj29qLJ1kiIi1k/Wear%20Bushing%20and%20Seals%20Replacement%203-5-09.pdf

Hopefully your next haulout is scheduled soon and you can do this then. My guess is that if you are losing oil i.e. not gaining sea water, that you can delay the haulout for months by continuing to add oil. If you are also gaining sea water (oil turning to a milk shake consistency, you should seek some expert advice as to how long you can delay the haulout.

Also, read "BOW THRUSTER SERVICE by Gary Silver.pdf" in the Files section. Bow Thruster service and wear bushing service should be performed each haulout to eliminate unscheduled haulouts.

I hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Athens, Greece
Blog: http://www.svbebe.com

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Barb" <surfskis2002@...> wrote:

Hi all,
I have posted two photos - one showing the oil resevoir which is loosing oil taking SAE15-40 - which feeds into what we call in Australia a hotbox (dogbox). All the lines seem to be okay but it would appear we may need new seals. Does anyone know or recognise this box type that may enable us to order some new seals before we take it all apart!!!!!

Thanks again.


Re: [Amel] PAT-----wearing out bearing lip seals

Patrick McAneny
 

Eric, The only number I see in my old post is not a part # ,it is their
phone # in Delaware where they are located. I just asked for oil seals and
provided the sizes or dimensions and they have them in stock and sent them right
out. Sorry for the confusion, I should have put phone # in front of the
numbers. Thanks, Pat


Re: [Amel] Re: mystery seal kit

kimberlite <kimberlite@...>
 

Are those o rings or lip seals?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 12:26 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: mystery seal kit





If the large one is 60mm, it could be the bow thruster shaft seal.

Bill
BeBe SM2k, #387
Currently Athens, Greece

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Mark" <markghayden@...> wrote:

Among the spare parts that were on our boat when we purchased it were what
appear to be 2 seal kits. After several years, this is one of the last
things that we are unsure the purpose of. Can someone help us?

I posted a picture in a photo album, PartsIdentification.

Thanks in advance,

Mark
SM2K 331

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1547549906/pic/42
8743049/view?picmode=
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1547549906/pic/4
28743049/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc>
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc