Date   

Re: [Amel] Going up the mast

karkauai
 

Hi John,
When I've tried to use the windlass, I've found it almost impossible to avoid overrides.  I've always thought I was going up in relative safety until  I learned of the runaway winch, now just rethinking what's the best way to avoid or react to that scenario.
Kent


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Going up the mast

John and Anne on Bali Hai
 

This really should be very simple and safe. What we do is use the ballooner halyard and put a light line on it so that we can pull the halyard out to check that it has not been damaged on something inside the mast. We recover the halyard and make sure that is run through a mast mounted jammer and then run it throgh a snatchblock lashed loosely with a sail tier to a cleat on the port side of the mast and thence to the rope drum on the anchor windlass. The jammer is on whilst lifting someone up the mast and the winch operator is well clear of anything that may be dropped by the person up the mast. I once saw a crew man felled by a dropped shackle pin from the top of a twelve metre mast, anything heavier might well have killed him. To lower the climber move the halyard from the windlass to a winch on the mast and take up the tension before releasing the jammer and then lower slowly as needed.

Craig, please tell me the frequency and time of the Med Net either here or via annejohnholl at gmail.com.

Safe climbing, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319


Re: [Amel] Re: headsail idea

GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
 

Dave,
With reference to the attachment of a solent/inner forestay here are my thought for what they are worth.
 
I have modified my last four boats to incorporate an inner forestay from which to fly a hanked on working jib and storm jib because I too am concerned about poor upwind performance with the genoa. Additionally I want an easy way to set a storm sail and have a backup should the furling gear fail.
 
Selden make a fitting 517-911-01 which is suitable for 8mm wire. I imagine that your forestay is least 10mm or more but I am sure that 8mm would be fine. I used this set up on my Oceanis 440 which had a 12mm forestay and a 630sq ft genoa. The spar manufacturers, Z Spars specified this fitting for the boat and 8mm wire. It worked well.
 
The fitting is easily mounted at about 300mm below the masthead and therefore does not require running backstays. On our Sharki I was going to take the lower end to the large mooring cleat but eventually mounted a double folding deck fitting just aft of the cleat which is through bolted to a stainless bracket which is in turn fastened to the dividing bulkhead in the deck locker. It is tensioned with a standard turnbuckle fitted with drop nosed pins. I have used a Seasure quick release tensioner previously but have come to the conclusion that it was not necessary as I tend to set the inner stay up before going offshore and have the working jib hanked on and stowed at deck level ready to hoist.
 
As far as sheeting goes we have the Barbarossa/Harken genoa cars with the wide aluminium sheave which is wide enough to take two lines. I have both the genoa sheets and jib sheets permanently led through the cars and the jib sheet led though an additional turning block mounted above the original toe rail block.
 
The sheeting angle on the both working and storm jibs will allow the sheets to be led inboard of the shrouds which may help a little with windward ability although I have not had the opportunity to try this in the real world!
 
I have fitting instructions in PDF format is you would like a copy.
 
Graham
Sharki 181 Zephyr
 
 
 
 
 
From: jjjk12s <jjjk12s@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 22 August 2011, 21:30
Subject: [Amel] Re: headsail idea


 
Dave,

We have an Isomat mast with the solent stay attached to the masthead fitting. The forestay has a Profurl unit.

John

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@...> wrote:

John,

Do you have the Nirvana genoa furler installed with the "cage" up at the top of the mast? If so, I'm curious to know where and how the solent is attached to the mast. I don't think your solent stay was original equipment but it's certainly an excellent addition. We prefer to attach the stay as high as as we can for a number of reasons, one of them being a higher aspect sail will be more efficient than a lower aspect sail.



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "jjjk12s" <jjjk12s@> wrote:

Popeye (Maramu #91) has a solent stay which attaches with a pelican hook to a "D ring" type arrangement that is part of the stainless bow fitting but a few inches behind the forestay. It easily attaches out of the way to a D ring by the shrouds when not in use. I thought this is original equipment. Very handy for a variety of hank on sails and also in a crisis if there is a problem with the forestay.

John

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@> wrote:

I'm thinking about building an upwind sail when things slow down a bit this winter. It would be flown from a Dyneema stay. I'm thinking the stay could possibly be lashed to the foredeck cleat. I have no idea if this factoid is true but I read that the original concept with the huge foredeck cleat is that the boat could be lifted with a 3 point harness using that cleat for the forward attachment.

Since the effective J of this sail would be small-ish I'm thinking about building it with some battens so we can have some positive roach. The sail would stow in a zipper bag secured to the rail so the battens would not make it too tough to stow.

If anyone has tried something similar or has some ideas to offer, I'd love to hear them. Not sure yet what I'll use for material.

I'm thinking this would be a really useful sail if we were doing a passage like Hawaii to the west coast. When we built the genoa the idea was to create a really good reaching and downwind sail for use with the balooner. So the genoa isn't all that great upwind.

Not sure what we'd do for sheeting yet. Anyhow, love to hear ideas if you have any.

Regards,

Dave Benjamin
S/V Exit Strategy
Maramu #29



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Galley Sink drain insert

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

Pictures uploaded in the album Lady Annila SM 2332

/Ann-Sofie


To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: karkauai@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 00:27:52 +0000
Subject: Re: [Amel] Galley Sink drain insert

We use the dishwasher as more storage space. Do you hav e a pic of your cutting board in place?
Kent
SM2K 243
KRISTY
Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone powered by Alltel

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] headsail idea

eric freedman
 

I am heading away for a week but I have an original Amel drawing and some
photos of a staysail with furler for the Amel Super Maramu

Please send me a mote sept 1 and I will send you the photos.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dave_Benjamin
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 12:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] headsail idea





I'm thinking about building an upwind sail when things slow down a bit this
winter. It would be flown from a Dyneema stay. I'm thinking the stay could
possibly be lashed to the foredeck cleat. I have no idea if this factoid is
true but I read that the original concept with the huge foredeck cleat is
that the boat could be lifted with a 3 point harness using that cleat for
the forward attachment.

Since the effective J of this sail would be small-ish I'm thinking about
building it with some battens so we can have some positive roach. The sail
would stow in a zipper bag secured to the rail so the battens would not make
it too tough to stow.

If anyone has tried something similar or has some ideas to offer, I'd love
to hear them. Not sure yet what I'll use for material.

I'm thinking this would be a really useful sail if we were doing a passage
like Hawaii to the west coast. When we built the genoa the idea was to
create a really good reaching and downwind sail for use with the balooner.
So the genoa isn't all that great upwind.

Not sure what we'd do for sheeting yet. Anyhow, love to hear ideas if you
have any.

Regards,

Dave Benjamin
S/V Exit Strategy
Maramu #29


Re: [Amel] outhaul motor parts

eric freedman
 

Eric,

My magnet is in pieces.

I brought it to a motor shop and they lost a few pieces so I need a new
magnet

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of sv Sangaris
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 12:30 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] outhaul motor parts






Hi Eric,

I had the exact thing happen - the glue holding the permanent magnet
broke loose. I used JB WELD to glue it back. It's a two-part epoxy
"steel" sold everywhere. That was five years ago and it's worked
perfectly ever since.

Cheers, Craig Briggs s/v SANGARIS SN#68 in Leros, Greece

--- kimberlite <kimberlite@...> wrote:
... outhaul motor.. magnets glue.. To ..shell of the motor is broken.
Otherwise .. fine.
Eric


Re: headsail idea

jjjk12s <jjjk12s@...>
 

Dave,

We have an Isomat mast with the solent stay attached to the masthead fitting. The forestay has a Profurl unit.

John

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@...> wrote:

John,

Do you have the Nirvana genoa furler installed with the "cage" up at the top of the mast? If so, I'm curious to know where and how the solent is attached to the mast. I don't think your solent stay was original equipment but it's certainly an excellent addition. We prefer to attach the stay as high as as we can for a number of reasons, one of them being a higher aspect sail will be more efficient than a lower aspect sail.



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "jjjk12s" <jjjk12s@> wrote:

Popeye (Maramu #91) has a solent stay which attaches with a pelican hook to a "D ring" type arrangement that is part of the stainless bow fitting but a few inches behind the forestay. It easily attaches out of the way to a D ring by the shrouds when not in use. I thought this is original equipment. Very handy for a variety of hank on sails and also in a crisis if there is a problem with the forestay.

John

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@> wrote:

I'm thinking about building an upwind sail when things slow down a bit this winter. It would be flown from a Dyneema stay. I'm thinking the stay could possibly be lashed to the foredeck cleat. I have no idea if this factoid is true but I read that the original concept with the huge foredeck cleat is that the boat could be lifted with a 3 point harness using that cleat for the forward attachment.

Since the effective J of this sail would be small-ish I'm thinking about building it with some battens so we can have some positive roach. The sail would stow in a zipper bag secured to the rail so the battens would not make it too tough to stow.

If anyone has tried something similar or has some ideas to offer, I'd love to hear them. Not sure yet what I'll use for material.

I'm thinking this would be a really useful sail if we were doing a passage like Hawaii to the west coast. When we built the genoa the idea was to create a really good reaching and downwind sail for use with the balooner. So the genoa isn't all that great upwind.

Not sure what we'd do for sheeting yet. Anyhow, love to hear ideas if you have any.

Regards,

Dave Benjamin
S/V Exit Strategy
Maramu #29


Re: [Amel] outhaul motor parts

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Eric,

I had the exact thing happen - the glue holding the permanent magnet
broke loose. I used JB WELD to glue it back. It's a two-part epoxy
"steel" sold everywhere. That was five years ago and it's worked
perfectly ever since.


Cheers, Craig Briggs s/v SANGARIS SN#68 in Leros, Greece

--- kimberlite <kimberlite@...> wrote:
... outhaul motor.. magnets glue.. To ..shell of the motor is broken.
Otherwise .. fine.
Eric


Re: headsail idea

Dave_Benjamin
 

John,

Do you have the Nirvana genoa furler installed with the "cage" up at the top of the mast? If so, I'm curious to know where and how the solent is attached to the mast. I don't think your solent stay was original equipment but it's certainly an excellent addition. We prefer to attach the stay as high as as we can for a number of reasons, one of them being a higher aspect sail will be more efficient than a lower aspect sail.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "jjjk12s" <jjjk12s@...> wrote:

Popeye (Maramu #91) has a solent stay which attaches with a pelican hook to a "D ring" type arrangement that is part of the stainless bow fitting but a few inches behind the forestay. It easily attaches out of the way to a D ring by the shrouds when not in use. I thought this is original equipment. Very handy for a variety of hank on sails and also in a crisis if there is a problem with the forestay.

John

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@> wrote:

I'm thinking about building an upwind sail when things slow down a bit this winter. It would be flown from a Dyneema stay. I'm thinking the stay could possibly be lashed to the foredeck cleat. I have no idea if this factoid is true but I read that the original concept with the huge foredeck cleat is that the boat could be lifted with a 3 point harness using that cleat for the forward attachment.

Since the effective J of this sail would be small-ish I'm thinking about building it with some battens so we can have some positive roach. The sail would stow in a zipper bag secured to the rail so the battens would not make it too tough to stow.

If anyone has tried something similar or has some ideas to offer, I'd love to hear them. Not sure yet what I'll use for material.

I'm thinking this would be a really useful sail if we were doing a passage like Hawaii to the west coast. When we built the genoa the idea was to create a really good reaching and downwind sail for use with the balooner. So the genoa isn't all that great upwind.

Not sure what we'd do for sheeting yet. Anyhow, love to hear ideas if you have any.

Regards,

Dave Benjamin
S/V Exit Strategy
Maramu #29


Re: [Amel] Re: Genoa sheets and runaway winches

karkauai
 

Thanks, Richard and Craig.  I have a much better understanding of how they work now.  The "Top Climber" looks pretty good, I'll have to try to find someone who has one to give it a try.
Kent

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] headsail idea

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Dave we had a high cut 90% heavy weather jib built to fly off the forestay and it has proved remakably powerfull. Anything over 12 knots true wind speed it is better than the genoa to windward and over 15 knots on a reach with the wind on or ahead of the beam. 
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui New Zealand 

From: Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 22 August 2011 4:44 PM
Subject: [Amel] headsail idea


 
I'm thinking about building an upwind sail when things slow down a bit this winter. It would be flown from a Dyneema stay. I'm thinking the stay could possibly be lashed to the foredeck cleat. I have no idea if this factoid is true but I read that the original concept with the huge foredeck cleat is that the boat could be lifted with a 3 point harness using that cleat for the forward attachment.

Since the effective J of this sail would be small-ish I'm thinking about building it with some battens so we can have some positive roach. The sail would stow in a zipper bag secured to the rail so the battens would not make it too tough to stow.

If anyone has tried something similar or has some ideas to offer, I'd love to hear them. Not sure yet what I'll use for material.

I'm thinking this would be a really useful sail if we were doing a passage like Hawaii to the west coast. When we built the genoa the idea was to create a really good reaching and downwind sail for use with the balooner. So the genoa isn't all that great upwind.

Not sure what we'd do for sheeting yet. Anyhow, love to hear ideas if you have any.

Regards,

Dave Benjamin
S/V Exit Strategy
Maramu #29





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: headsail idea

jjjk12s <jjjk12s@...>
 

Popeye (Maramu #91) has a solent stay which attaches with a pelican hook to a "D ring" type arrangement that is part of the stainless bow fitting but a few inches behind the forestay. It easily attaches out of the way to a D ring by the shrouds when not in use. I thought this is original equipment. Very handy for a variety of hank on sails and also in a crisis if there is a problem with the forestay.

John

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@...> wrote:

I'm thinking about building an upwind sail when things slow down a bit this winter. It would be flown from a Dyneema stay. I'm thinking the stay could possibly be lashed to the foredeck cleat. I have no idea if this factoid is true but I read that the original concept with the huge foredeck cleat is that the boat could be lifted with a 3 point harness using that cleat for the forward attachment.

Since the effective J of this sail would be small-ish I'm thinking about building it with some battens so we can have some positive roach. The sail would stow in a zipper bag secured to the rail so the battens would not make it too tough to stow.

If anyone has tried something similar or has some ideas to offer, I'd love to hear them. Not sure yet what I'll use for material.

I'm thinking this would be a really useful sail if we were doing a passage like Hawaii to the west coast. When we built the genoa the idea was to create a really good reaching and downwind sail for use with the balooner. So the genoa isn't all that great upwind.

Not sure what we'd do for sheeting yet. Anyhow, love to hear ideas if you have any.

Regards,

Dave Benjamin
S/V Exit Strategy
Maramu #29


headsail idea

Dave_Benjamin
 

I'm thinking about building an upwind sail when things slow down a bit this winter. It would be flown from a Dyneema stay. I'm thinking the stay could possibly be lashed to the foredeck cleat. I have no idea if this factoid is true but I read that the original concept with the huge foredeck cleat is that the boat could be lifted with a 3 point harness using that cleat for the forward attachment.

Since the effective J of this sail would be small-ish I'm thinking about building it with some battens so we can have some positive roach. The sail would stow in a zipper bag secured to the rail so the battens would not make it too tough to stow.

If anyone has tried something similar or has some ideas to offer, I'd love to hear them. Not sure yet what I'll use for material.

I'm thinking this would be a really useful sail if we were doing a passage like Hawaii to the west coast. When we built the genoa the idea was to create a really good reaching and downwind sail for use with the balooner. So the genoa isn't all that great upwind.

Not sure what we'd do for sheeting yet. Anyhow, love to hear ideas if you have any.

Regards,

Dave Benjamin
S/V Exit Strategy
Maramu #29


Re: [Amel] Galley Sink drain insert

karkauai
 

We use the dishwasher as more storage space. Do you hav e a pic of your cutting board in place?
Kent
SM2K 243
KRISTY
Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone powered by Alltel


Re: Mizzen Ballooner

Craig Briggs
 

--- Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" wrote:
Good news... sock (snuffer) ..on Mizzen Ballooner.
.. (It).. will give .. a gain of 1-2kts in 15kts of wind.

I do not know if this is correct, but we always set the ballooner with the main to the outside of the ballooner...seems to work better and not get blanketed by the main, but when the wind is on the beam it seems that the main is too far out possibly spilling a lot of air. Your thoughts on this would be appreciated as the Amel manual does not address the position of the main.
Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

Hi Bill,
You are absolutely correct - the "foc d'artimon" - "jib of the mizzen" indeed flies inside the main. We call ours "Little Artie" and he's like a little turbocharger - watch out for "whip-lash" as you accelerate! (Well, a little hyperbole is allowed!)

Start trimming from the bow with the "foc" and work aft. And remember the racers mantra - "when in doubt, let it out". Use the boom vang on the main to crank it down and you'll be surprised how far out it will trim and still be effective.

In the 15 kts of wind you mentioned, the main delvelops max power off the leach, and a little softness at the luff isn't an issue - even to the point of a bit of flutter.

Then move on to "Little Artie" and let him out past luffing, then trim him in till he's just drawing - I've got telltales on him so I can see when I've got attached flow on both side. Finish up with the Artimon - Mizzen, which will be on a close reach, because all the wind coming from the bow is being bent closer to the boat as it flows past the first three sails.

And Bob's your Uncle!

Cheers, Craig Briggs aboard "SANGARIS" SN#68, in Leros, Greece.


Re: [Amel] outhaul motor parts

eric freedman
 

_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kimberlite
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 12:43 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] outhaul motor parts





I have had my mainsail outhaul motor taken apart in a motor shop. One of
the magnets glue

To the inside shell of the motor is broken. Otherwise the motor is fine.
Does anyone in the USA or Canada have a corroded or broken Leroy Sommer
outhaul motor? I need to take the motor apart for the magnets.

If there is also a damaged or corroded gearbox I would also be interested in
purchasing it.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Super Maramu #376


Re: [Amel] Galley Sink drain insert

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

If you find replacements I am also interested!

We have had a custom made cut board in teak that is fit voer the big zink and underneath I have this plastic tray. It is perfect to keep the dish brush and other small things on.

Drying plates, why don't you use the dishwasher for that instead of having one more thing in the kitchen.

Regards
Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila
SM #232




To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: karkauai@yahoo.com
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 12:42:05 -0700
Subject: Re: [Amel] Galley Sink drain insert






I never liked that plastic tray as it wouldn't stay in place. I found a small Stainless/rubber-coated drip basket that fits nicely in one side of the double sink for drying dishes (Bed Bath and Beyond- ~$15US). It also has rubber feet that keep it from sliding around when placed on the drainboard to the starboard of the sinks. Altogether a much better solution than the old plastic tray.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

________________________________
From: Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2011 1:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Galley Sink drain insert


Hi Bill,

when I purchased Crusader (2) In 2003 I asked Olivier for a spare tray.
He said that trays were no longer available, but gave me his last spare
which I have now used. In my double sink there are two plastic trays and
both could do with replacing now so if you find a source then please let
me know. Good luck.

Regards

Ian SM Crusader Lesbos Greek Islands

On 16/08/2011 16:44, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Does anyone know where we can buy a replacement for the plastic tray
for the galley sink? It has "CER&#9825;MAT" on each end of the tray.

Best,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Crete, Greek Islands

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel] Re: Genoa sheets and runaway winches

Craig Briggs
 

Bill,

"Runaways" , as you say, are most certainly a failed switch closing the
low current side of a relay, which in turn energizes the electromagnet
that closes the hi current terminals.

To address Kent's question of whether flipping off the panel switch
eliminates all possiblility of a runaway and Bill's second scenario of a
solenoid failing and going to the closed position - there is virtually
no realistic chance of such a failure and turning off the panel switch
is definitely "enough" as Kent put it.

These relays/contactors/solenoids - whatever term you wish - are highly
engineered devices that have their high current terminals held open by
strong springs (some are normally closed, but ours are normally open).
They are designed so that any realistic failure mode will not activate
the switch. Bill, I guess I can't disagree when you say this "could"
fail - but it's in the realm of an irrelevant hypothetical, not real
life. Oh, I suppose if you had dripping sea water making it a massive
corroded wad it could fail - but, hey, these are Amels!

Thus, unless and until you hit the switch (or the switch fails and
closes by itself), thereby feeding low amp current to the electromagnet,
thus closing the contacts, the relay/solenoid will not energize the high
current side - period.

This is NOT analogous to "hot wiring" a car (and I grew up in Detroit
when we could still do that!). Hot wiring is simply bypassing the switch
with a jumper, which IS totally analogous to the failed switch scenario
- not the failed solenoid scenario.

I'd suggest some KISS, and just turn off the panel breaker - a simple
routine easily made habit. It will, ideeed, eliminate all reasonable
possibility of a failure and, more important, it'll get done. Can't
quite see traipsing around after every sail from engine room to
companionway to bow to open breakers becoming anything but a PITA.

Having said all that, this part is really not too important. What's
really, really important is that all the crew know exactly what to do
with a runaway.

Bill - sounds like we may have crossed paths as you're in Crete and we
just left there and are now in the Dodecanese. Will you be headed back
this way or to Turkey - would welcome you for sundowners. Ever come up
on the Med Net?

Cheers,

Craig Briggs, "SANGARIS", SN#68

--- Bill aboard SV BeBe" wrote:
.. breaker ..only turns off the low-amp side .. high-amp side remains ON
when the 24v panel breaker is OFF. If any of the relays/solenoids fails
and closes the high-amp side, the motor will run with .. breaker set to
OFF. Some of you may remember "hot wiring" a starter solenoid on a car
with the key switch OFF...same principle. (NOT THE SAME PRINCIPLE -
Craig)

In my opinion there are two possible/probable causes of a runaway
electric winch:
---One is if the winch/windlass control button fails and closes...this
will cause the winch to runaway if the 24v panel breaker and the
high-amp breakers are ON.
---The other potential cause could be if the the relay/solenoid fails
and closes, the winch will runaway even if the 24v panel breaker set to
OFF. ("COULD", BUT SO IMPROBABLE AS TO BE IRRELEVANT - Craig)

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Crete, Greek Islands

Kent Robertson karkauai@ wrote:

If the winches are turned off at the 24v panel, does that shut off
all possiblity of the winches running, or do you have to turn them off
at their individual breakers or even the primary 24v breaker at the
battery bank?
We've always turned them off at the 24v panel, but now I'm
questioning if that's enough.
.....


Mizzen Ballooner

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Good news...

We had a sock (snuffer) installed on our Mizzen Ballooner. What a difference in setting and snuffing. A few days ago, we used it with the snuffer for the first time with the wind on the beam and at 15kts.

Try it and you will use the Mizzen Ballooner a lot more...great when wind is at 90 to 150 degrees. It will give you a gain of 1-2kts in 15kts of wind.

I do not know if this is correct, but we always set the ballooner with the main to the outside of the ballooner...seems to work better and not get blanketed by the main, but when the wind is on the beam it seems that the main is too far out possibly spilling a lot of air. Your thoughts on this would be appreciated as the Amel manual does not address the position of the main.

Best,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Crete, The Greek Islands


Re: [Amel] Re: Genoa sheets and runaway winches

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Kent given that I'm on a lot of boats I have a "top climer" that allow getting up on my own. We use the windlass and a safety line on our SM

Regards. SM 209 FOR SALE IN ANNAPOLIS

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

"brokerage beyond your expectations"

On Aug 19, 2011, at 17:09, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo.com> wrote:

If the winches are turned off at the 24v panel, does that shut off all possiblity of the winches running, or do you have to turn them off at their individual breakers or even the primary 24v breaker at the battery bank?
We've always turned them off at the 24v panel, but now I'm questioning if that's enough.
As for taking someone up the mast, turning the winches off when at the top of the mast is a great idea too. We need to know where the closest fail-safe switch is that can be thrown in the event of a runaway.
Craig (Sangaris) taught me to tie the secondary safety line off at the halyard winch and use a rolling hitch to move up and down that line. With the real possiblilty of runaway winch, I will now ALWAYS use that method instead of using the two jib winches together for my primary and secondary lines.

What would you recommend I purchase as a method of going up the mast without relying on the winches (ie if I were single-handing)? There are several products on the market that I'd like to hear some feedback on. Perhaps that's the best way to go up every timye!?
Scary, huh?!
Kent
SM2K 243
KRISTY

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