Bob,
Numerous things on a new Amel do not meet abyc standards.
Remember this is a French boat and meets all the European standards.
ABYC is not the only standard in the world.
I have investigated the difference between the standards of ABYC and CE
standards. I feel the Amel engineered better than ABYC and have made no
changes to the Boat.
Fair winds,
Eric

Why don't you just disconnect the European connector and install a 50
amp 220 volt connector and return the expensive "y" connector and cord?
Eric

I had a few AC related questions and thought I would link them to
this earlier discussion about AC power.

I've purchased a Marinco "reverse Y" for my 1993 Santorin and have a
couple of questions. The boat has a 220 cord in its lazarette with
a French? three pronged male fitting on the end using three
straight,round contacts in a "v" arrangement. The plug is labeled
10 amps. Does any one have any recommendations for how to mate it
with the "reverse Y" female plug?

The 220 volt cord in the lazarette is not very long. I already have
one 50' 110v Marinco cord. It seems to make sense to just buy
another matching cord and connect the "reverse y" closer to the boat
or even in the lazarette with two 110 cords. Does anyone have any
advice on this?

I've been told that ABYC standards require a breaker within just a
few feet of where AC power enters the boat. Mine doesn't go through
a breaker until it gets to the GFI breaker in my galley panel. Any
thoughts on this?

Thanks, Bob "Hanalei"

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite1212
<no_reply@y...> wrote:

the amel plug has 3 wires a green and yellow and two hot 110 volt
wires. The usa side has a green, white, black and red.
when you connect the amel to the 220 volt 50 amp twistlock you do
not use the usa side white. the green and yellow goes to the usa
green
the other 2 amel wires go to the red and the black.
AGAIN do not use the us white (neutral side).
I have had no problem connecting in the virgin islands and in the
USA. I leave the 50 amp twistlock connected to my boat and use a
number of adapter cords that i have made to connect elsewhere.
Fair winds,
eric Freedman
Kimberlite sm 376

when you connect this to a twist --- In
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele"

<edmundsteele@e...>

wrote:

Walter,
If the marina you are planning on visiting can handle the depth

and

length of an Amel, they will most probably supply 50 Ampere /

220Volt

power. The supply outlet may in the form of a single twist lock

plug.

The plug contains 4 connectors which are both phases of 110

volts,

a

common and a ground wire. Many boaters (the majority are power
boaters) in the USA will then use a "splitter" to separate this
supply into two 110 volt cables which are then plugged into

their

vessels as two separate cables. For the Amel, we simply plug the
single 220V cable directly into the boat.
Some marinas supply two 110 volt twist lock plugs on a post.

These

outlets are of opposite phase so they can be combined to produce

a

220 volt supply. This is the inverse of the "splitter" mentioned
above and can be purchased from WestMarine (www.westmarine.com).
WestMarine call this a "Reverse Y Adapter" Model 491985 and it

sells

for US$409.99

I have only once had to use a transformer to get 220V from 110V

and

that was because I did not have a 220V extension cord at the

time.

This approach is also very limiting as you probably won't be

able

to

take enough power off the 110 volt supply to run air-

conditioners

without throwing it's breaker.

BTW, anything that has 220V on it tends to cost a fortune in the

USA.

For example, a 50 foot 110 volt extension cord may sell for

US$40

but

a 50 foot 220 volt extension cord may cost near US$600. If you

are

not

afraid of using a screwdriver, you can cut the plugs off a 110

volt

extension cord and replace the plugs with 220 volt plugs.
Ed Steele
DoodleBug SM331

The solent stay is attached to the mast just 3 feet from the
masthead, thus no runners were needed. The maramu had only a single
spreader rig and small foretriangle, so this worked well. The
deckplate fitting bolted through the longitudnal bulkhead dividing
the forward sail lockers, essentially two chainplates, one on each
side of the bulkhead, extending from deck level about 18 inches and
bolted with 6 large bolts. This attached just aft of the windlass.
Only downsides were we had to keep the backstay pretty tight (around
25% of the wire's breaking strength) to keep the rig well tuned, and
we couldn't get a ton of tension on the solent stay so there was a
decent amount of sag in the stay. However, this never seemed to be a
problem and the boat sailed great with that 70% jib on hanks in a
stiff breeze.

If we had had a super maramu, we would have rigged it as a cutter
with removable inner forestay at the level of the second set of
spreaders and also added running backstays. Unfortunatly, to sail
properly upwind one would need an inner track for the staysail
sheets, and it would obstruct the nice clear amel splashdeck, but
would be worth it when needed. Most boats that sail from Puerto
Williams have a cutter rig and fly a very small staysail on roller
furling (almost invariably profurl). They use these small heavy
sails frequently down there, so the roller furling makes sense. We
were kind of sticklers for weight and windage aloft because the ketch
rig already suffers in this regard.

On another note, if doing it again we probably would have increased
the mainmast rigging to 3/8". The mizzen is overrigged in stock
form, but the standard rigging of 5/16", while appropriate for the
sail area, is not quite matched to the ballast the way it would be
for a sloop. With 3/8" wire, we could have left tension similar to
that with 5/16" wire, but had much less stretch to deal with and have
an extra margin of safety for a modest penalty in weight and
windage. Not sure about the SMs rigging, but if you're headed real
high latitude, I might do these calculations (can find them in
Dashew's encyclopedia for example) and think about the rigging,
particularly if the wire already has over 25,000 miles or 5 years on
it.

Ben
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlt@o...>
wrote:

Dear Ben,
Thank you very much for the info.
How was the solent stay rigged. What did you attach it to and how

did

you strengthen the deck and below deck fittings?
Did you install running backstays?
Thanks A lot.
Fair winds,
Eric


-----Original Message-----
From: resolute56s [mailto:bwestley@u...]
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2003 7:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: trip around the horn

Hi, new to the forum...

My father, brother and myself sailed our 1983 Maramu Resolute from
Alaska to Cape Horn and back in 1998-2000. Our website is
www.paonline.com/resolute

For heavy weather we had a removable solent stay about 3 feet aft

of

the forestay that we flew either a 70% working jib or storm jib
depending on wind strength. This jib sheets to the main genoa

track,

which we had added a second car to on each side. We felt an atn

gale

sail would be ok for the tropics but insufficient for the southern
ocean, and on the passage from tahiti to chile were very glad for

the

hanked jibs. Our maramu did great downwind with just the working

jib

or storm jib in a gale. We never sailed upwind in over 35 knots of
wind, but would probably go with the working jib and mizzen, then
reef the mizzen, then go to storm jib and mizzen if really hard
pressed.

By the way, we rounded the horn on jan 4, 2000. 2 weeks later an
italian sharki rounded, and about 3 weeks later a swedish super
maramu rounded. At least 1 amel has been to the antarctic. Lots

of

amels down there!!

Ben Westley

PS Our boat is former excalibur, owned by roy benveniste. I know

he

used to frequent this site.



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite1212
<no_reply@y...> wrote:

Does anyone know of an amel that has made the trip around the

horn?

secondly what do you do on a s/m when the wind get above 45 knots.
thnaks
eric
sm 376 kimberlite

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Dear Ben,
Thank you very much for the info.
How was the solent stay rigged. What did you attach it to and how did
you strengthen the deck and below deck fittings?
Did you install running backstays?
Thanks A lot.
Fair winds,
Eric

Hi, new to the forum...

My father, brother and myself sailed our 1983 Maramu Resolute from
Alaska to Cape Horn and back in 1998-2000. Our website is
www.paonline.com/resolute

For heavy weather we had a removable solent stay about 3 feet aft of
the forestay that we flew either a 70% working jib or storm jib
depending on wind strength. This jib sheets to the main genoa track,
which we had added a second car to on each side. We felt an atn gale
sail would be ok for the tropics but insufficient for the southern
ocean, and on the passage from tahiti to chile were very glad for the
hanked jibs. Our maramu did great downwind with just the working jib
or storm jib in a gale. We never sailed upwind in over 35 knots of
wind, but would probably go with the working jib and mizzen, then
reef the mizzen, then go to storm jib and mizzen if really hard
pressed.

By the way, we rounded the horn on jan 4, 2000. 2 weeks later an
italian sharki rounded, and about 3 weeks later a swedish super
maramu rounded. At least 1 amel has been to the antarctic. Lots of
amels down there!!

Ben Westley

PS Our boat is former excalibur, owned by roy benveniste. I know he
used to frequent this site.



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite1212
<no_reply@y...> wrote:

Does anyone know of an amel that has made the trip around the horn?
secondly what do you do on a s/m when the wind get above 45 knots.
thnaks
eric
sm 376 kimberlite

Hallo George, I have the same problem in my SM 107 and I solve it. The first
thing that you have to do is to check with an expert in electronic if your
autopilot software is the last version that is in the market, because this
is an Known prblem of the earliest versions, so in most cases updating the
software is enough. This should be made with special device in the computer
of the autopilot. In my case this was not enough and a expert in electronics
here in Mallorca has repaired the computer this is really difficult due to
the size of components that shuld be replaced but is possible and cheap. If
you know a good expert in electronics ask him to repair it, and if he doesn'
t know how to do it a can get you in contact with the tecnician that
repaired mine.
Best regards from Mallorca

Vicente Pereda
Alferez Provisional 1,3oC
07014 PALMA DE MALLORCA
Tfn 0034971286387

-----Mensaje original-----
De: peps47@aol.com [mailto:peps47@aol.com]
Enviado el: miercoles, 10 de diciembre de 2003 3:40
Para: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Asunto: [Amel Yacht Owners] ST7000 failure

Unfortunately yes, my ST7000 had a major failure. The main PC board went
bad.
There was no way to get it working as it decided to announce "low batteries"
and bip for ever as soon as I would try to crank it.
This happened in Grece and the repair agent in Athens found nothing wrong. I
reinstalled it and of course, same thing. I had to get a brand new PC board.
Georges - Santorin Greenlight -







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Unfortunately yes, my ST7000 had a major failure. The main PC board went bad.
There was no way to get it working as it decided to announce "low batteries"
and bip for ever as soon as I would try to crank it.
This happened in Grece and the repair agent in Athens found nothing wrong. I
reinstalled it and of course, same thing. I had to get a brand new PC board.
Georges - Santorin Greenlight -

Hi to all that have emailed. I shall answer everyone in one email to keep downlaod to the minimum for those who might be on a Sat phone.

Eric

Regarding the poles, I simply hang them on the rails. BUT, I have whipped the hooks and also the rails where the pole touches them so that neither the rail nor the pole gets marked up. I think Amel should do this as standard. It seems a shame to produce all that brightwork only to have it marked almost straight away. When whipping the hooks, I used a little adhesive to get the thin cord to stay put, and it has worked well. I coil the aft guy and hang it on the pin at the end of the pole, and the yellow sits very nicely in that rope groove in the rub rail that Amel so cleverly designed.

You can find info on Mer via Google. I don't know where you are right now, but a good link is http://www.extremeautoaccessories.co.uk/products.php?section=1180 I am sorry that you wil have to type this as the embedded code did not transfer for some reason. I forgot to say that although Mer is marketed for car use, they do say that it is suitable for gel coat too. It contains a remarkable water repellent that does away with salt stains on the rub rails and hull. I noticed from the site that it is being sold there for under half what that convincing entrepreneur at the Southampton Boat Show sells it for! I shall have to go back! I guess though that there will be P & P on the web purchase.

Delores

Thanks for the web site info on 303. I will try and have a look. Yes I do single hand Crusader much of the time. The only time that I have had another well qualified crew member on board was for the initial leg from La Rochelle to Gibraltar non stop in August 2000. Since then I have accumulated 29, 240 nms of which more than half have been single handed. For the rest I have had various female companions though most had never sailed before. If ever I find the right girl that is also addicted to the cruising life, then I shall gladly give up sailing alone!

There are advantages to being single handed:

The food lasts longer and it is always cooked the way you want it.
You only argue with yourself.
You only have to tell yourself off from time to time.
No one has to suffer my guitar playing.
I can play the music and watch the DVD's that I like.
There is no embarrassment about clothes being 'optional'
You have only yourself to blame if things go wrong.
You get to do all the boat handling.
You can snore all night if you want to!

There are of course disadvantages, but best left unsaid!

Ian & Judy

Good to hear from you. I think we were about a week apart when I took delivery of the first boat. I did not take the rotary autopilot option as I find the space about the sink very useful for stowage of a decent sized toaster and a food mixer. Also, seeing how easy Amel had made it to change the ram, I thought it best to purchase a second ram as a spare and simply change it should the installed one go wrong. In fact, it never has though I did have the sea talk plug fall out of the underside of the control panel once in mid Atlantic. It was a heart stopping moment when the pilot quit but fortunately it was very easy to fix once I had discovered what was wrong. It does seem poor that this plug is only a push fit.

Good luck with your voyage south.

Anne & John

Yes I agree with you about having some autopilot spares, especially if you are sailing on your own. I have heard too that the plastic gears were a problem, but thankfully I got the brass type. I would be pleased to hear from anyone as to whether they have had any other component in the ST 7000+ fail?

Seasons Greeting to all

Ian

"Crusader"

Delores,
are you talking about protecting and polishiing the stainless steel deck
guard rail here ?
Im finding it difficult to get this job done.
help appreciated,
Dennis Woods Co owner Khamsin B Amel Santorin Sloop

Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

Dear Ian and Judy,
Thanks for your info. To see the pics open "photos" and then click on the
thumbnail marked Bali Hai. Of our alterations we rate the double bunk and
the cockpit seat as huge improvements. The various movements possible
easily with the aid of the gas filled struts in the pedestal mean that, at
a guess, the seat is only pointing forward about 5% of the time. It is also
relatively comfortable to sit in it pointing upwind when heeled.
What I forgot to say is that I fixed two teak hand holds above the wheel on
the back edge of the hard dodger so that there is something to hang on to
for geriatrics like me to get out of the seat when the boat is well heeled
on starboard tack.
Let us know if you need any more info.
We totally agree with you about the desirability of having a second drive
for the autopilot. With my last boat we had several failures of the linear
drive. Admittedly the drive fitted on that leaky Oyster only had plastic
instead of brass gears in the linear drive unit but we only found that out
in mid Atlantic When it happened again in the Pacific the problem was a
build up in carbon dust in the drive motor housing. Amel assures me that
they fit drive units with brass gears which is very good news.The life of
the plastic ones seemed to be about 12,000 miles and the life of the carbon
brushes perhaps 40,000 miles. Serious long distance cruisers would be well
advised to carry spares. Plastic gear sets cost £12.50 and brass ones
£125.0 10 years ago. We were carrying three spare sets of the plastic gears
across the Pacific and sold one set to a couple stranded in the Cook
Islands and another to a couple stranded in Tonga.
The brush problem happened in Vanuatu, and an Email to Raymarine UK asking
for spares resulted in them replying that they had changed motor suppliers
telling us to contact the previous suppliers direct. Naturally they omitted
to tell us where and how to do this. Luckily we then found that the spare
brushes which came with the boat when I bought it, and which I thought were
for the anchor winch, fitted perfectly.

Regards Anne and John Bal Hai SM 319

hi,
does anyone have factory pictures of the Amel factory .
I have already seen the existing ones on the yahoo website.
thanks
fair winds
eric freedman
sm 376 kimberlite

Hi Ian,

The 303 product is clear and would not be a problem as far as
the "grain" goes. But I doubt I would use on the faux teak decks as
it might be slippery. It would effectively prevent the fading that
is experienced on the Amel boats but I fear it would be a liability
under foot. You may want to go to the web site ...
www.303products.com and ask them about their product on the deck.

I am going to look into your product recommendation.

Do I understand from your emails that you singlehand your Amel? If
so, how long have you been doing so?

Delores
s/v Stargazer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd" <g4ljf@c...>
wrote:

Hi Delores,

thanks for this good tip. I have also found a marvelous product

that keeps all gel coat in show room condition as well as making
smoke removal a cinch. It's called Mer, and I believe it is of German
origin. I bought mine at the Southampton Boat Show. It been around
for a while. It's very easy to apply and polishes off easily too. I
did the whole boat in a few hours by myself one sunny day in Kinsale.

I guess your protectant might work wonders on the faux teak? Is it

a clear liquid, or a white polish that might be difficult to wipe out
of the 'grain' on the desks?

Best Wishes

Ian Shepherd

"Crusader"

Dear Anne and John, I am interested to see your cockpit chair pictures , but being somewhat of a novice on a computerI am struggling to find them---what do I do to download them?
You have my sympathies on the double berth in the aft cabin. We solved our problem in another way ( and am I right in thinking that from 2000 on the SM has more room fore and aft on the aft bed ?)
We opted for the vanity table in the aft cabin ( not sure we would do so again, as it merely becomes another shelf with less efficient storage underneath). However, we asked Amel to put a chock between the double berth and that part of the berth which is aft of the vanity unit. The Port side of the chiock is about 12 " longer than than the starboard side , and at their suggestion the matress is in only two parts.This gives us a huge double berth athwartships at very little ( possibly no extra?) cost and we keep the easy access to all underberth lockers.
Ian, One solution to the noise of the Autohelm in the aft berth is to fit a second , rotary, drive with a changeover switch.Redundancy, plus a good nights sleep.
With just two of us we favour either the aft cabin, in light airs , or the berth above the batteries. However, we have belatedly discovered that the pilot berth in the saloon is much better than expected ( though some means needs to be discovered of stopping the outboard, aft, end of the wooden base from grinding on its supporting shelf), and , much to our surprise, the berths in the forecabin can be very comfortable off the wind ( we have hitherto reserved them for the crew we never sail with...)
Sweet dreams, Ian and Judy. Pen Azen

_________________________________________________________________
Find a cheaper internet access deal - choose one to suit you. http://www.msn.co.uk/internetaccess

Dear Ian,
How do you rig the poles when they are not deployed.
what do you do besides using the hook on the end of the pole?
Fair winds,
Eric
SM 376 kimberlite

Hi Again,

I always keep the poles rigged when under way. You are right, they do offer a lot of security when folded. When single handed, you just cannot go overboard, and they bridge the gap between the fore guy and the dodger hand hold very well.

I too had a pole fold in mid Atlantic on the previous boat. It did not damage the rub rail, but it did break the rivets. Luckily I did have spare large rivets and a gun that would form them, and I was able to make repairs very quickly. Had I not, it would have made a grim crossing.

Another point to consider is the sideways load on the mast when a single pole is deployed. In can be considerable, particularly in gusts or when the pole strikes the water. It might be prudent to rig both poles to offset the sideways load for peace of mind. Unfortunately, the genoa sheets as supplied by Amel are too short to do this unless you furl the headsail a bit. I replaced my sheets with a longer set (158-160 feet long if I remember correctly. 10 ft more per side). This will enable both poles to be deployed at the same time. It also makes gybing down a zig zag course very straight forward!

The idea of using the forward cleat to reduce fore guy stretch is interesting. I must try that. Thanks for the tip.

Ian Shepherd

"Crusader"

Hi Stephan,

interesting to read that you too get wet sails when stowed up front. When I arrived in Greenland after a lively crossing from Ireland, I found several inches of water in the forward lockers. I just do not believe that those thin walled seals that crush too easily and which have folds in the corners are man enough for the job. They may keep the rain out, but when the bow buries itself into a wave, they just cannot cope. I have removed the bung in the port side locker to minimize the problem, though this will comprise flotation, though with the seals as they are, I wonder how much real buoyancy there would be if the bow was submerged?

I have emailed Amel and suggested that a firmer molded seal is needed on the bow lockers, and the safety locker too, but so far, no response. If anyone has found a solution to this problem, then please let us know.

Fortunately, the colours on the new ballooner and staysail do not seem to run when wet like they did with the previous boat. Putting a grate in each locker would at least keep the stowed items out of the water that sloshes about.

Ian Shepherd

SM 2000 # 414 "Crusader"

Dear Anne and John,

Thank you for the further info on the aft cabin storage. I did not realize that one of the bunks in the aft cabin can be converted into a double, (like the fore cabin I suspect), as both my boats have been made with the fixed double layout.

As a live aboard most of the time, space is always at a premium, even on an Amel. I discarded many other makes of yachts due to lack of storage space. When I sold my first SM 2000 after two and a quarter years, I was astounded at just how much junk I had collected in such a short time. It would never have squeezed into many boats on the market.

I use the space under the fixed double for spare duvets, towels, sheets etc and my first boat had a secure locker built in there too. Congratulations on your ingenious conversion. To be able to put everything back to manufacturers specification is mostly a bonus when it comes to selling.

I must admit that I have never been able to sleep in the aft cabin underway. The noise from the autopilot linear ram is just too irritating. It would be great if there was room enough to use some engine room sound insulation around that area. Sailing mostly single handed, I close the aft bulkhead door and use the companion way berth where it is much quieter and I can be woken by the radar alarm should an intruder come too close. I have an Autohelm remote control clipped to the wall by the bunk to deal with any alarms and to keep an eye on progress and wind conditions should something feel not right, and also a hand held VHF so that I can switch the main VHF off when sleeping. The handheld on Ch 16 will pick up someone close enough who may wish to communicate without being woken by far off traffic. I can also look around the bulkhead at my laptop which I angle towards the bunk. The Nobeltec display is easily seen, though I am considering installing a mirror so that I can view the laptop and the radar without cricking my neck!

Fair Winds

Ian

"Crusader"

Hi Delores,

thanks for this good tip. I have also found a marvelous product that keeps all gel coat in show room condition as well as making smoke removal a cinch. It's called Mer, and I believe it is of German origin. I bought mine at the Southampton Boat Show. It been around for a while. It's very easy to apply and polishes off easily too. I did the whole boat in a few hours by myself one sunny day in Kinsale.

I guess your protectant might work wonders on the faux teak? Is it a clear liquid, or a white polish that might be difficult to wipe out of the 'grain' on the desks?

Best Wishes

Ian Shepherd

"Crusader"