1. main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
   Date   
Re: Super Maramu for Sale in Australia

slavko_despotovic <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, koenvelleman <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
My Super Maramu Flash IV is now for sale
She is on the hardstand in Bundaberg QLD and in perfect condition.
Hello,

is Maramu Flash IV avaliable? Or sold?

Best regards,

Slavko
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Converting 110 volts to 220 volts

kimberlite <kimberlt@...>
 

Dear Bob,
If the power post on the dock has two 30 amp 120 volt outlets it most
likely has a 240 volt outlet that takes a 50 amp plug as I described.
Just return the cord and “y” adapter and get a 50 amp plug. You can go
to home depot and get wire that will work to extend your power cord.
Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: rossirossix4 [mailto:equinoxsolstice@hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 3:43 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Converting 110 volts to 220 volts

My posting earlier may not have been clear. My boat, a 1993
Santorin, is presently in the Annapolis area and I am needing to
provide 220 volts (which my Santorin is wired for) from the 110
volts that is available in the USA. Presently I'm using a small
transformer to provide 220 to the boat via its 220 cord. The
transformer works well but is very limited in terms of its power
output. (The transformer is fused at 8 amps, 110 volts).

I've purchased a Marinco "reverse Y" at the suggestion of Joel
Potter when we talked together at the Annapolis Boat Show.
The "reverse Y" is capable of supplying 220 with more amperage than
the transformer, but I have couple of questions. The boat has a 220
cord in its lazarette with a French? three pronged male fitting on
the end using three round contacts in a "v" arrangement. Does any
one have any recommendations for how to mate it with the "reverse Y"
female plug?

Also, the 220 volt cord in the lazarette is not very long. I
already have one 50' 110v Marinco cord. It seems to make sense to
just buy another matching cord and connect the "reverse y" closer to
the boat or even in the lazarette at the end of two 110 cords
(rather than plugging the "reverse Y" into the two 110 30 amp plugs
that the marina supplies). Feeding two 110 cords into the secured
lazarette might also prevent the expensive "reverse y' from
disappearing. Does anyone have any advice on this?

I've been told that ABYC standards require a breaker within just
a few feet of where AC power enters the boat. Mine doesn't go
through a breaker until it gets to the GFI breaker in my galley
panel. I am aware of the boat's conformance with CE standards, but
my insurance company likes ABYC, and the idea of a breaker BEFORE
the cord enters the conduit from the lazarette makes sense to me.
Any thoughts on this?

Thanks again, Bob Santorin "Hanalei"




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Converting 110 volts to 220 volts

rossirossix4 <equinoxsolstice@...>
 

My posting earlier may not have been clear. My boat, a 1993
Santorin, is presently in the Annapolis area and I am needing to
provide 220 volts (which my Santorin is wired for) from the 110
volts that is available in the USA. Presently I'm using a small
transformer to provide 220 to the boat via its 220 cord. The
transformer works well but is very limited in terms of its power
output. (The transformer is fused at 8 amps, 110 volts).

I've purchased a Marinco "reverse Y" at the suggestion of Joel
Potter when we talked together at the Annapolis Boat Show.
The "reverse Y" is capable of supplying 220 with more amperage than
the transformer, but I have couple of questions. The boat has a 220
cord in its lazarette with a French? three pronged male fitting on
the end using three round contacts in a "v" arrangement. Does any
one have any recommendations for how to mate it with the "reverse Y"
female plug?

Also, the 220 volt cord in the lazarette is not very long. I
already have one 50' 110v Marinco cord. It seems to make sense to
just buy another matching cord and connect the "reverse y" closer to
the boat or even in the lazarette at the end of two 110 cords
(rather than plugging the "reverse Y" into the two 110 30 amp plugs
that the marina supplies). Feeding two 110 cords into the secured
lazarette might also prevent the expensive "reverse y' from
disappearing. Does anyone have any advice on this?

I've been told that ABYC standards require a breaker within just
a few feet of where AC power enters the boat. Mine doesn't go
through a breaker until it gets to the GFI breaker in my galley
panel. I am aware of the boat's conformance with CE standards, but
my insurance company likes ABYC, and the idea of a breaker BEFORE
the cord enters the conduit from the lazarette makes sense to me.
Any thoughts on this?

Thanks again, Bob Santorin "Hanalei"
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 220Volt Power

kimberlite <kimberlt@...>
 

Gary,
That is correct.
That is the way I wired Kimberlite.
Please note that he USA white and green are at the same potential. If
you happen to check the voltage (when plugged into a 220 volt USA
configuration) the voltage between the green and either hot leg you will
find 110 volts.
Just to prevent plugging into some weird power pedestals I installed a
power monitor.
It consists of an ammeter, a voltmeter, a frequency meter, and a circuit
breaker.
I measure what is coming into the boat and if it is satisfactory, I flip
the breaker and let the current run into the Amel ac panel.

Fair Winds,
Eric
S/m 376

-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 10:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 220Volt Power

RE the color codes wires posting earlier:
I have been watching these postings and studying the differences
between USA and European power for some time. I had some questions
about this posting and would like to state my understanding and have
those in the know do a reality check for me. ( NOTE that this
discussion doesn't consider the difference in frequency of the
two
types of power, i.e. 60 Hertz in the USA and 50 Hertz for European
power or the differences in European grounding practices as compared
to the USA. )

Lets start with what I have. The 220 Volt AC cord that comes from
my Amel SM 2000 (Hull # 335) has three wires in it. Alivier
Beauteau told me that it was rated at 30 Amperes at 220 Volts AC.
The color coding is based on the latest European color code and is
as follows:

1. Brown = European Hot
2. Blue = European Neutral
3. Green with Yellow Stripe = European Grounding (or
Safety Ground)

USA 220 Volt AC typically has 4 wires with color codes as follows:

1. Red = USA Hot
2. Black = USA Hot
3. White = USA Neutral for 110 volt
circuits only
4. Green = USA Grounding (of Safety
Ground)

NOW, as you measure Voltage AC (RMS = root mean square voltage,
which is what your digital volt meter more or less shows you)
between the following points you will get the following readings:

EUROPEAN: Between the Brown and Blue Reads 220 Volts AC
Between the Blue and the Green with Yellow Stripe
Reads Zero Volts AC
Between the Brown and the Green with Yellow Stripe
Reads 220 Volts AC


USA: Between the Red and Black Reads 220 Volts AC
Between the Red and White Reads 110 Volts AC
Between the Black and White Reads 110 Volts AC
Between the White and Green Reads Zero Volts AC

When wiring the Amel 220 Volt AC cable from the boat to USA
power the following should be done:

a. The Amel Brown Wire (European Hot) should go to either the
USA Red or Black wire
b. The Amel Blue Wire (European Neutral) should go to the USA
Red or Black wire (whichever the Amel Brown wire isn't connected
to. My understanding, and please somebody correct me if I am wrong,
is that the polarity of these two connections (red and/or black to
blue and/or brown makes no difference).
Finally the Amel Green with Yellow Stripe wire should go to the USA
Green wire.
The USA white wire has nothing connected to it from the European
cable.

The given appliance or load doesn't care about polarity since it
is
alternating current (AC). All the load cares about is that there is
an EMF (ElectroMotive Force) of 220 Volts pushing the electrons back
and forth in the wires of the load (e.g. the lamp, motor etc.) Again
this discussion doesn't take into consideration the frequency
with
which the electrons are moved back and forth (Hertz). If I
understand it correctly the naming of the wires (Hot, Neutral etc is
somewhat arbitrary) and hence confusing at times.

So there you have it, the distillation of my many sources. I have
an electronics background but there we deal mostly with DC voltage
and theory. I have approached two commercial electricians here in
the USA to verify the differences between USA and European power and
they both stammered and stuttered until I had basically no
confidence in their confused explanations. I haven't tried
wiring
up my Amel to this standard yet so if someone else would try it out
and let me know if anything smokes I can then refine the theory
further. Please, your comments and criticisms are welcome.

Sincerely, Gary Silver s/v Liahona currently in Tortola at
Nanny Cay






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[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 220Volt Power

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

RE the color codes wires posting earlier:
I have been watching these postings and studying the differences
between USA and European power for some time. I had some questions
about this posting and would like to state my understanding and have
those in the know do a reality check for me. ( NOTE that this
discussion doesn't consider the difference in frequency of the
two
types of power, i.e. 60 Hertz in the USA and 50 Hertz for European
power or the differences in European grounding practices as compared
to the USA. )

Lets start with what I have. The 220 Volt AC cord that comes from
my Amel SM 2000 (Hull # 335) has three wires in it. Alivier
Beauteau told me that it was rated at 30 Amperes at 220 Volts AC.
The color coding is based on the latest European color code and is
as follows:

1. Brown = European Hot
2. Blue = European Neutral
3. Green with Yellow Stripe = European Grounding (or
Safety Ground)

USA 220 Volt AC typically has 4 wires with color codes as follows:

1. Red = USA Hot
2. Black = USA Hot
3. White = USA Neutral for 110 volt
circuits only
4. Green = USA Grounding (of Safety
Ground)

NOW, as you measure Voltage AC (RMS = root mean square voltage,
which is what your digital volt meter more or less shows you)
between the following points you will get the following readings:

EUROPEAN: Between the Brown and Blue Reads 220 Volts AC
Between the Blue and the Green with Yellow Stripe
Reads Zero Volts AC
Between the Brown and the Green with Yellow Stripe
Reads 220 Volts AC


USA: Between the Red and Black Reads 220 Volts AC
Between the Red and White Reads 110 Volts AC
Between the Black and White Reads 110 Volts AC
Between the White and Green Reads Zero Volts AC

When wiring the Amel 220 Volt AC cable from the boat to USA
power the following should be done:

a. The Amel Brown Wire (European Hot) should go to either the
USA Red or Black wire
b. The Amel Blue Wire (European Neutral) should go to the USA
Red or Black wire (whichever the Amel Brown wire isn't connected
to. My understanding, and please somebody correct me if I am wrong,
is that the polarity of these two connections (red and/or black to
blue and/or brown makes no difference).
Finally the Amel Green with Yellow Stripe wire should go to the USA
Green wire.
The USA white wire has nothing connected to it from the European
cable.

The given appliance or load doesn't care about polarity since it
is
alternating current (AC). All the load cares about is that there is
an EMF (ElectroMotive Force) of 220 Volts pushing the electrons back
and forth in the wires of the load (e.g. the lamp, motor etc.) Again
this discussion doesn't take into consideration the frequency
with
which the electrons are moved back and forth (Hertz). If I
understand it correctly the naming of the wires (Hot, Neutral etc is
somewhat arbitrary) and hence confusing at times.

So there you have it, the distillation of my many sources. I have
an electronics background but there we deal mostly with DC voltage
and theory. I have approached two commercial electricians here in
the USA to verify the differences between USA and European power and
they both stammered and stuttered until I had basically no
confidence in their confused explanations. I haven't tried
wiring
up my Amel to this standard yet so if someone else would try it out
and let me know if anything smokes I can then refine the theory
further. Please, your comments and criticisms are welcome.

Sincerely, Gary Silver s/v Liahona currently in Tortola at
Nanny Cay
espar heater

eric freedman <kimberlt@...>
 

for those of you who opted for the espar heater option. what sixe
(btu) is it and how and where is it mounted?
thanks
eric
sm kimnerlite #376
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 220Volt Power

kimberlite <kimberlt@...>
 

Bob,
Numerous things on a new Amel do not meet abyc standards.
Remember this is a French boat and meets all the European standards.
ABYC is not the only standard in the world.
I have investigated the difference between the standards of ABYC and CE
standards. I feel the Amel engineered better than ABYC and have made no
changes to the Boat.
Fair winds,
Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: rossirossix4 [mailto:equinoxsolstice@hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 6:24 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 220Volt Power

I had a few AC related questions and thought I would link them to
this earlier discussion about AC power.

I've purchased a Marinco "reverse Y" for my 1993 Santorin and have a
couple of questions. The boat has a 220 cord in its lazarette with
a French? three pronged male fitting on the end using three
straight,round contacts in a "v" arrangement. The plug is labeled
10 amps. Does any one have any recommendations for how to mate it
with the "reverse Y" female plug?

The 220 volt cord in the lazarette is not very long. I already have
one 50' 110v Marinco cord. It seems to make sense to just buy
another matching cord and connect the "reverse y" closer to the boat
or even in the lazarette with two 110 cords. Does anyone have any
advice on this?

I've been told that ABYC standards require a breaker within just a
few feet of where AC power enters the boat. Mine doesn't go through
a breaker until it gets to the GFI breaker in my galley panel. Any
thoughts on this?

Thanks, Bob "Hanalei"

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite1212
<no_reply@y...> wrote:
the amel plug has 3 wires a green and yellow and two hot 110 volt
wires. The usa side has a green, white, black and red.
when you connect the amel to the 220 volt 50 amp twistlock you do
not use the usa side white. the green and yellow goes to the usa
green
the other 2 amel wires go to the red and the black.
AGAIN do not use the us white (neutral side).
I have had no problem connecting in the virgin islands and in the
USA. I leave the 50 amp twistlock connected to my boat and use a
number of adapter cords that i have made to connect elsewhere.
Fair winds,
eric Freedman
Kimberlite sm 376

when you connect this to a twist --- In
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele"
<edmundsteele@e...>
wrote:
Walter,
If the marina you are planning on visiting can handle the depth
and
length of an Amel, they will most probably supply 50 Ampere /
220Volt
power. The supply outlet may in the form of a single twist lock
plug.
The plug contains 4 connectors which are both phases of 110
volts,
a
common and a ground wire. Many boaters (the majority are power
boaters) in the USA will then use a "splitter" to separate this
supply into two 110 volt cables which are then plugged into
their
vessels as two separate cables. For the Amel, we simply plug the
single 220V cable directly into the boat.
Some marinas supply two 110 volt twist lock plugs on a post.
These
outlets are of opposite phase so they can be combined to produce
a
220 volt supply. This is the inverse of the "splitter" mentioned
above and can be purchased from WestMarine (www.westmarine.com).
WestMarine call this a "Reverse Y Adapter" Model 491985 and it
sells
for US$409.99

I have only once had to use a transformer to get 220V from 110V
and
that was because I did not have a 220V extension cord at the
time.
This approach is also very limiting as you probably won't be
able
to
take enough power off the 110 volt supply to run air-
conditioners
without throwing it's breaker.

BTW, anything that has 220V on it tends to cost a fortune in the
USA.
For example, a 50 foot 110 volt extension cord may sell for
US$40
but
a 50 foot 220 volt extension cord may cost near US$600. If you
are
not
afraid of using a screwdriver, you can cut the plugs off a 110
volt
extension cord and replace the plugs with 220 volt plugs.
Ed Steele
DoodleBug SM331




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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 220Volt Power

kimberlite <kimberlt@...>
 

Why don't you just disconnect the European connector and install a 50
amp 220 volt connector and return the expensive "y" connector and cord?
Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: rossirossix4 [mailto:equinoxsolstice@hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 6:24 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 220Volt Power

I had a few AC related questions and thought I would link them to
this earlier discussion about AC power.

I've purchased a Marinco "reverse Y" for my 1993 Santorin and have a
couple of questions. The boat has a 220 cord in its lazarette with
a French? three pronged male fitting on the end using three
straight,round contacts in a "v" arrangement. The plug is labeled
10 amps. Does any one have any recommendations for how to mate it
with the "reverse Y" female plug?

The 220 volt cord in the lazarette is not very long. I already have
one 50' 110v Marinco cord. It seems to make sense to just buy
another matching cord and connect the "reverse y" closer to the boat
or even in the lazarette with two 110 cords. Does anyone have any
advice on this?

I've been told that ABYC standards require a breaker within just a
few feet of where AC power enters the boat. Mine doesn't go through
a breaker until it gets to the GFI breaker in my galley panel. Any
thoughts on this?

Thanks, Bob "Hanalei"

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite1212
<no_reply@y...> wrote:
the amel plug has 3 wires a green and yellow and two hot 110 volt
wires. The usa side has a green, white, black and red.
when you connect the amel to the 220 volt 50 amp twistlock you do
not use the usa side white. the green and yellow goes to the usa
green
the other 2 amel wires go to the red and the black.
AGAIN do not use the us white (neutral side).
I have had no problem connecting in the virgin islands and in the
USA. I leave the 50 amp twistlock connected to my boat and use a
number of adapter cords that i have made to connect elsewhere.
Fair winds,
eric Freedman
Kimberlite sm 376

when you connect this to a twist --- In
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele"
<edmundsteele@e...>
wrote:
Walter,
If the marina you are planning on visiting can handle the depth
and
length of an Amel, they will most probably supply 50 Ampere /
220Volt
power. The supply outlet may in the form of a single twist lock
plug.
The plug contains 4 connectors which are both phases of 110
volts,
a
common and a ground wire. Many boaters (the majority are power
boaters) in the USA will then use a "splitter" to separate this
supply into two 110 volt cables which are then plugged into
their
vessels as two separate cables. For the Amel, we simply plug the
single 220V cable directly into the boat.
Some marinas supply two 110 volt twist lock plugs on a post.
These
outlets are of opposite phase so they can be combined to produce
a
220 volt supply. This is the inverse of the "splitter" mentioned
above and can be purchased from WestMarine (www.westmarine.com).
WestMarine call this a "Reverse Y Adapter" Model 491985 and it
sells
for US$409.99

I have only once had to use a transformer to get 220V from 110V
and
that was because I did not have a 220V extension cord at the
time.
This approach is also very limiting as you probably won't be
able
to
take enough power off the 110 volt supply to run air-
conditioners
without throwing it's breaker.

BTW, anything that has 220V on it tends to cost a fortune in the
USA.
For example, a 50 foot 110 volt extension cord may sell for
US$40
but
a 50 foot 220 volt extension cord may cost near US$600. If you
are
not
afraid of using a screwdriver, you can cut the plugs off a 110
volt
extension cord and replace the plugs with 220 volt plugs.
Ed Steele
DoodleBug SM331




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Re: 220Volt Power

rossirossix4 <equinoxsolstice@...>
 

I had a few AC related questions and thought I would link them to
this earlier discussion about AC power.

I've purchased a Marinco "reverse Y" for my 1993 Santorin and have a
couple of questions. The boat has a 220 cord in its lazarette with
a French? three pronged male fitting on the end using three
straight,round contacts in a "v" arrangement. The plug is labeled
10 amps. Does any one have any recommendations for how to mate it
with the "reverse Y" female plug?

The 220 volt cord in the lazarette is not very long. I already have
one 50' 110v Marinco cord. It seems to make sense to just buy
another matching cord and connect the "reverse y" closer to the boat
or even in the lazarette with two 110 cords. Does anyone have any
advice on this?

I've been told that ABYC standards require a breaker within just a
few feet of where AC power enters the boat. Mine doesn't go through
a breaker until it gets to the GFI breaker in my galley panel. Any
thoughts on this?

Thanks, Bob "Hanalei"

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite1212
<no_reply@y...> wrote:
the amel plug has 3 wires a green and yellow and two hot 110 volt
wires. The usa side has a green, white, black and red.
when you connect the amel to the 220 volt 50 amp twistlock you do
not use the usa side white. the green and yellow goes to the usa
green
the other 2 amel wires go to the red and the black.
AGAIN do not use the us white (neutral side).
I have had no problem connecting in the virgin islands and in the
USA. I leave the 50 amp twistlock connected to my boat and use a
number of adapter cords that i have made to connect elsewhere.
Fair winds,
eric Freedman
Kimberlite sm 376

when you connect this to a twist --- In
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele"
<edmundsteele@e...>
wrote:
Walter,
If the marina you are planning on visiting can handle the depth
and
length of an Amel, they will most probably supply 50 Ampere /
220Volt
power. The supply outlet may in the form of a single twist lock
plug.
The plug contains 4 connectors which are both phases of 110
volts,
a
common and a ground wire. Many boaters (the majority are power
boaters) in the USA will then use a "splitter" to separate this
supply into two 110 volt cables which are then plugged into
their
vessels as two separate cables. For the Amel, we simply plug the
single 220V cable directly into the boat.
Some marinas supply two 110 volt twist lock plugs on a post.
These
outlets are of opposite phase so they can be combined to produce
a
220 volt supply. This is the inverse of the "splitter" mentioned
above and can be purchased from WestMarine (www.westmarine.com).
WestMarine call this a "Reverse Y Adapter" Model 491985 and it
sells
for US$409.99

I have only once had to use a transformer to get 220V from 110V
and
that was because I did not have a 220V extension cord at the
time.
This approach is also very limiting as you probably won't be
able
to
take enough power off the 110 volt supply to run air-
conditioners
without throwing it's breaker.

BTW, anything that has 220V on it tends to cost a fortune in the
USA.
For example, a 50 foot 110 volt extension cord may sell for
US$40
but
a 50 foot 220 volt extension cord may cost near US$600. If you
are
not
afraid of using a screwdriver, you can cut the plugs off a 110
volt
extension cord and replace the plugs with 220 volt plugs.
Ed Steele
DoodleBug SM331
Re: trip around the horn

resolute56s
 

The solent stay is attached to the mast just 3 feet from the
masthead, thus no runners were needed. The maramu had only a single
spreader rig and small foretriangle, so this worked well. The
deckplate fitting bolted through the longitudnal bulkhead dividing
the forward sail lockers, essentially two chainplates, one on each
side of the bulkhead, extending from deck level about 18 inches and
bolted with 6 large bolts. This attached just aft of the windlass.
Only downsides were we had to keep the backstay pretty tight (around
25% of the wire's breaking strength) to keep the rig well tuned, and
we couldn't get a ton of tension on the solent stay so there was a
decent amount of sag in the stay. However, this never seemed to be a
problem and the boat sailed great with that 70% jib on hanks in a
stiff breeze.

If we had had a super maramu, we would have rigged it as a cutter
with removable inner forestay at the level of the second set of
spreaders and also added running backstays. Unfortunatly, to sail
properly upwind one would need an inner track for the staysail
sheets, and it would obstruct the nice clear amel splashdeck, but
would be worth it when needed. Most boats that sail from Puerto
Williams have a cutter rig and fly a very small staysail on roller
furling (almost invariably profurl). They use these small heavy
sails frequently down there, so the roller furling makes sense. We
were kind of sticklers for weight and windage aloft because the ketch
rig already suffers in this regard.

On another note, if doing it again we probably would have increased
the mainmast rigging to 3/8". The mizzen is overrigged in stock
form, but the standard rigging of 5/16", while appropriate for the
sail area, is not quite matched to the ballast the way it would be
for a sloop. With 3/8" wire, we could have left tension similar to
that with 5/16" wire, but had much less stretch to deal with and have
an extra margin of safety for a modest penalty in weight and
windage. Not sure about the SMs rigging, but if you're headed real
high latitude, I might do these calculations (can find them in
Dashew's encyclopedia for example) and think about the rigging,
particularly if the wire already has over 25,000 miles or 5 years on
it.

Ben
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlt@o...>
wrote:
Dear Ben,
Thank you very much for the info.
How was the solent stay rigged. What did you attach it to and how
did
you strengthen the deck and below deck fittings?
Did you install running backstays?
Thanks A lot.
Fair winds,
Eric


-----Original Message-----
From: resolute56s [mailto:bwestley@u...]
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2003 7:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: trip around the horn

Hi, new to the forum...

My father, brother and myself sailed our 1983 Maramu Resolute from
Alaska to Cape Horn and back in 1998-2000. Our website is
www.paonline.com/resolute

For heavy weather we had a removable solent stay about 3 feet aft
of
the forestay that we flew either a 70% working jib or storm jib
depending on wind strength. This jib sheets to the main genoa
track,
which we had added a second car to on each side. We felt an atn
gale
sail would be ok for the tropics but insufficient for the southern
ocean, and on the passage from tahiti to chile were very glad for
the
hanked jibs. Our maramu did great downwind with just the working
jib
or storm jib in a gale. We never sailed upwind in over 35 knots of
wind, but would probably go with the working jib and mizzen, then
reef the mizzen, then go to storm jib and mizzen if really hard
pressed.

By the way, we rounded the horn on jan 4, 2000. 2 weeks later an
italian sharki rounded, and about 3 weeks later a swedish super
maramu rounded. At least 1 amel has been to the antarctic. Lots
of
amels down there!!

Ben Westley

PS Our boat is former excalibur, owned by roy benveniste. I know
he
used to frequent this site.



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite1212
<no_reply@y...> wrote:
Does anyone know of an amel that has made the trip around the
horn?
secondly what do you do on a s/m when the wind get above 45 knots.
thnaks
eric
sm 376 kimberlite




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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: trip around the horn

kimberlite <kimberlt@...>
 

Dear Ben,
Thank you very much for the info.
How was the solent stay rigged. What did you attach it to and how did
you strengthen the deck and below deck fittings?
Did you install running backstays?
Thanks A lot.
Fair winds,
Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: resolute56s [mailto:bwestley@u.washington.edu]
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2003 7:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: trip around the horn

Hi, new to the forum...

My father, brother and myself sailed our 1983 Maramu Resolute from
Alaska to Cape Horn and back in 1998-2000. Our website is
www.paonline.com/resolute

For heavy weather we had a removable solent stay about 3 feet aft of
the forestay that we flew either a 70% working jib or storm jib
depending on wind strength. This jib sheets to the main genoa track,
which we had added a second car to on each side. We felt an atn gale
sail would be ok for the tropics but insufficient for the southern
ocean, and on the passage from tahiti to chile were very glad for the
hanked jibs. Our maramu did great downwind with just the working jib
or storm jib in a gale. We never sailed upwind in over 35 knots of
wind, but would probably go with the working jib and mizzen, then
reef the mizzen, then go to storm jib and mizzen if really hard
pressed.

By the way, we rounded the horn on jan 4, 2000. 2 weeks later an
italian sharki rounded, and about 3 weeks later a swedish super
maramu rounded. At least 1 amel has been to the antarctic. Lots of
amels down there!!

Ben Westley

PS Our boat is former excalibur, owned by roy benveniste. I know he
used to frequent this site.



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite1212
<no_reply@y...> wrote:
Does anyone know of an amel that has made the trip around the horn?
secondly what do you do on a s/m when the wind get above 45 knots.
thnaks
eric
sm 376 kimberlite




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Re: trip around the horn

resolute56s
 

Hi, new to the forum...

My father, brother and myself sailed our 1983 Maramu Resolute from
Alaska to Cape Horn and back in 1998-2000. Our website is
www.paonline.com/resolute

For heavy weather we had a removable solent stay about 3 feet aft of
the forestay that we flew either a 70% working jib or storm jib
depending on wind strength. This jib sheets to the main genoa track,
which we had added a second car to on each side. We felt an atn gale
sail would be ok for the tropics but insufficient for the southern
ocean, and on the passage from tahiti to chile were very glad for the
hanked jibs. Our maramu did great downwind with just the working jib
or storm jib in a gale. We never sailed upwind in over 35 knots of
wind, but would probably go with the working jib and mizzen, then
reef the mizzen, then go to storm jib and mizzen if really hard
pressed.

By the way, we rounded the horn on jan 4, 2000. 2 weeks later an
italian sharki rounded, and about 3 weeks later a swedish super
maramu rounded. At least 1 amel has been to the antarctic. Lots of
amels down there!!

Ben Westley

PS Our boat is former excalibur, owned by roy benveniste. I know he
used to frequent this site.



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite1212
<no_reply@y...> wrote:
Does anyone know of an amel that has made the trip around the horn?
secondly what do you do on a s/m when the wind get above 45 knots.
thnaks
eric
sm 376 kimberlite
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ST7000 failure

Vicente telefonica <VPEREDA@...>
 

Hallo George, I have the same problem in my SM 107 and I solve it. The first
thing that you have to do is to check with an expert in electronic if your
autopilot software is the last version that is in the market, because this
is an Known prblem of the earliest versions, so in most cases updating the
software is enough. This should be made with special device in the computer
of the autopilot. In my case this was not enough and a expert in electronics
here in Mallorca has repaired the computer this is really difficult due to
the size of components that shuld be replaced but is possible and cheap. If
you know a good expert in electronics ask him to repair it, and if he doesn'
t know how to do it a can get you in contact with the tecnician that
repaired mine.
Best regards from Mallorca

Vicente Pereda
Alferez Provisional 1,3oC
07014 PALMA DE MALLORCA
Tfn 0034971286387

-----Mensaje original-----
De: peps47@aol.com [mailto:peps47@aol.com]
Enviado el: miercoles, 10 de diciembre de 2003 3:40
Para: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Asunto: [Amel Yacht Owners] ST7000 failure

Unfortunately yes, my ST7000 had a major failure. The main PC board went
bad.
There was no way to get it working as it decided to announce "low batteries"
and bip for ever as soon as I would try to crank it.
This happened in Grece and the repair agent in Athens found nothing wrong. I
reinstalled it and of course, same thing. I had to get a brand new PC board.
Georges - Santorin Greenlight -







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ST7000 failure

peps47@...
 

Unfortunately yes, my ST7000 had a major failure. The main PC board went bad.
There was no way to get it working as it decided to announce "low batteries"
and bip for ever as soon as I would try to crank it.
This happened in Grece and the repair agent in Athens found nothing wrong. I
reinstalled it and of course, same thing. I had to get a brand new PC board.
Georges - Santorin Greenlight -
From Crusader

Ian Shepherd <g4ljf@...>
 

Hi to all that have emailed. I shall answer everyone in one email to keep downlaod to the minimum for those who might be on a Sat phone.

Eric

Regarding the poles, I simply hang them on the rails. BUT, I have whipped the hooks and also the rails where the pole touches them so that neither the rail nor the pole gets marked up. I think Amel should do this as standard. It seems a shame to produce all that brightwork only to have it marked almost straight away. When whipping the hooks, I used a little adhesive to get the thin cord to stay put, and it has worked well. I coil the aft guy and hang it on the pin at the end of the pole, and the yellow sits very nicely in that rope groove in the rub rail that Amel so cleverly designed.

You can find info on Mer via Google. I don't know where you are right now, but a good link is http://www.extremeautoaccessories.co.uk/products.php?section=1180 I am sorry that you wil have to type this as the embedded code did not transfer for some reason. I forgot to say that although Mer is marketed for car use, they do say that it is suitable for gel coat too. It contains a remarkable water repellent that does away with salt stains on the rub rails and hull. I noticed from the site that it is being sold there for under half what that convincing entrepreneur at the Southampton Boat Show sells it for! I shall have to go back! I guess though that there will be P & P on the web purchase.

Delores

Thanks for the web site info on 303. I will try and have a look. Yes I do single hand Crusader much of the time. The only time that I have had another well qualified crew member on board was for the initial leg from La Rochelle to Gibraltar non stop in August 2000. Since then I have accumulated 29, 240 nms of which more than half have been single handed. For the rest I have had various female companions though most had never sailed before. If ever I find the right girl that is also addicted to the cruising life, then I shall gladly give up sailing alone!

There are advantages to being single handed:

The food lasts longer and it is always cooked the way you want it.
You only argue with yourself.
You only have to tell yourself off from time to time.
No one has to suffer my guitar playing.
I can play the music and watch the DVD's that I like.
There is no embarrassment about clothes being 'optional'
You have only yourself to blame if things go wrong.
You get to do all the boat handling.
You can snore all night if you want to!

There are of course disadvantages, but best left unsaid!

Ian & Judy

Good to hear from you. I think we were about a week apart when I took delivery of the first boat. I did not take the rotary autopilot option as I find the space about the sink very useful for stowage of a decent sized toaster and a food mixer. Also, seeing how easy Amel had made it to change the ram, I thought it best to purchase a second ram as a spare and simply change it should the installed one go wrong. In fact, it never has though I did have the sea talk plug fall out of the underside of the control panel once in mid Atlantic. It was a heart stopping moment when the pilot quit but fortunately it was very easy to fix once I had discovered what was wrong. It does seem poor that this plug is only a push fit.

Good luck with your voyage south.

Anne & John

Yes I agree with you about having some autopilot spares, especially if you are sailing on your own. I have heard too that the plastic gears were a problem, but thankfully I got the brass type. I would be pleased to hear from anyone as to whether they have had any other component in the ST 7000+ fail?

Seasons Greeting to all

Ian

"Crusader"
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Oxidation of rub rail

Woods, Dennis (WMI, Ireland) <dennis.woods@...>
 

Delores,
are you talking about protecting and polishiing the stainless steel deck
guard rail here ?
Im finding it difficult to get this job done.
help appreciated,
Dennis Woods Co owner Khamsin B Amel Santorin Sloop

-----Original Message-----
From: stargazer41amel [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 01 December 2003 21:18
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Oxidation of rub rail


After owning our Sharki for 8 years now, we have finally found a
product that stops the oxidation of our rub rail. 303 Products makes
an item called 303 Aerospace Protectant. The best I can say is WOW!
Check out their website www.303products.com and learn all about their
line.

Delores Carter



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[Amel Yacht Owners] Double berths

Anne and John Hollamby <hollamby@...>
 

Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<
Dear Ian and Judy,
Thanks for your info. To see the pics open "photos" and then click on the
thumbnail marked Bali Hai. Of our alterations we rate the double bunk and
the cockpit seat as huge improvements. The various movements possible
easily with the aid of the gas filled struts in the pedestal mean that, at
a guess, the seat is only pointing forward about 5% of the time. It is also
relatively comfortable to sit in it pointing upwind when heeled.
What I forgot to say is that I fixed two teak hand holds above the wheel on
the back edge of the hard dodger so that there is something to hang on to
for geriatrics like me to get out of the seat when the boat is well heeled
on starboard tack.
Let us know if you need any more info.
We totally agree with you about the desirability of having a second drive
for the autopilot. With my last boat we had several failures of the linear
drive. Admittedly the drive fitted on that leaky Oyster only had plastic
instead of brass gears in the linear drive unit but we only found that out
in mid Atlantic When it happened again in the Pacific the problem was a
build up in carbon dust in the drive motor housing. Amel assures me that
they fit drive units with brass gears which is very good news.The life of
the plastic ones seemed to be about 12,000 miles and the life of the carbon
brushes perhaps 40,000 miles. Serious long distance cruisers would be well
advised to carry spares. Plastic gear sets cost £12.50 and brass ones
£125.0 10 years ago. We were carrying three spare sets of the plastic gears
across the Pacific and sold one set to a couple stranded in the Cook
Islands and another to a couple stranded in Tonga.
The brush problem happened in Vanuatu, and an Email to Raymarine UK asking
for spares resulted in them replying that they had changed motor suppliers
telling us to contact the previous suppliers direct. Naturally they omitted
to tell us where and how to do this. Luckily we then found that the spare
brushes which came with the boat when I bought it, and which I thought were
for the anchor winch, fitted perfectly.

Regards Anne and John Bal Hai SM 319
photos

eric freedman <kimberlt@...>
 

hi,
does anyone have factory pictures of the Amel factory .
I have already seen the existing ones on the yahoo website.
thanks
fair winds
eric freedman
sm 376 kimberlite
ian -- do you have any more info on the "mer" product ?

eric freedman <kimberlt@...>
 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Oxidation of rub rail

stargazer41amel <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Ian,

The 303 product is clear and would not be a problem as far as
the "grain" goes. But I doubt I would use on the faux teak decks as
it might be slippery. It would effectively prevent the fading that
is experienced on the Amel boats but I fear it would be a liability
under foot. You may want to go to the web site ...
www.303products.com and ask them about their product on the deck.

I am going to look into your product recommendation.

Do I understand from your emails that you singlehand your Amel? If
so, how long have you been doing so?

Delores
s/v Stargazer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd" <g4ljf@c...>
wrote:
Hi Delores,

thanks for this good tip. I have also found a marvelous product
that keeps all gel coat in show room condition as well as making
smoke removal a cinch. It's called Mer, and I believe it is of German
origin. I bought mine at the Southampton Boat Show. It been around
for a while. It's very easy to apply and polishes off easily too. I
did the whole boat in a few hours by myself one sunny day in Kinsale.

I guess your protectant might work wonders on the faux teak? Is it
a clear liquid, or a white polish that might be difficult to wipe out
of the 'grain' on the desks?

Best Wishes

Ian Shepherd

"Crusader"
55881 - 55900 of 56782