-----Original Message-----
From: Ian & Judy Jenkins [mailto:ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2003 1:30 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries

On our SM, 302, June 2000 launch, now lived aboard for 18 months,we
find
that at sea we run the genset about every six hours for an hour to an
hour
and a half on each occasion. Less when at anchor without autohelm, nav
lights radar etc.Our first batteries ( we have 420 amps) lasted two
years,
since when I tend to recharge when we are down to 90% ( We found that
the
fridge cut out somewhere below 87% notwithstanding the fact that we
still
had 24v).
I find that the recharge quickly up to 99% but that those last few
amps,say the last 7, take for ever.
Does anyone know how important it is to always recharge to 100%?
The one thing I would suggest when running the genset is to check that
the
220v fan is working ( put your hand over the outlet in the cockpit
coaming.
) Ours failed in the Caribean and the extra heat in the engine room was
appparently the reason why our 50 amp charger failed after 3 years, to
be
followed by the 30 amp one ten weeks later.This, despite the fact that
both
chargers have heat cut outs.The first failed in Guadeloupe and was
beyond
the knowledge of Pochon for a speedy repair.but both were repaired by
Manuel
in Ecuador ( thank God for the third world--they still know how to fix
things there).He said he had never seen anything so hi tech and
powerful in
such a small box--the last time he saw such a powerful gadget it was the

size and weight of his mother in law!
The cost of a new 220v fan ,one new 50 amp and two repairs was
unwelcome,
and I don`t understand the need for the 220v fan. The two 24v fans are
much
more powerful,give you an element of redundancy, much cheaper and can be

sourced anywhere.Is there a good reason why they could not be wired up
to
come on with the genset just as they come on with the Volvo/Yanmar? Ian.
Pen
Azen

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-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Shepherd [mailto:g4ljf@compuserve.com]
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 3:58 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] espar heater

Hi Eric,

I can't tell you the BTU output as I am in Cyprus at the moment, but the
unit is mounted in the port side cockpit up and under the horizontal
part upon which the winches are mounted. So you don't see it, and it
does not rob you of any useful storage space, though caution is needed
as it can get hot.

Later boats have the air intake in the rope box in front of the mizzen.
Earlier boats have a flap in the cockpit sidewall above the seat. This
was a pain as it is easy to forget to open it before firing the Espar
up. The result was overheating and an automatic shutdown.

To retrofit one of these units may prove very difficult when it comes to
installing the ducting around the boat. I remember that Amel specified a
deadline by which I had to specify a diesel heater during construction.
I am glad that I chose it. It was worth it's weight in gold whilst in
Greenland and Labrador.

Good luck

Ian

SM2000 "Crusader"







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-----Original Message-----
From: rossirossix4 [mailto:equinoxsolstice@hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 3:43 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Converting 110 volts to 220 volts

My posting earlier may not have been clear. My boat, a 1993
Santorin, is presently in the Annapolis area and I am needing to
provide 220 volts (which my Santorin is wired for) from the 110
volts that is available in the USA. Presently I'm using a small
transformer to provide 220 to the boat via its 220 cord. The
transformer works well but is very limited in terms of its power
output. (The transformer is fused at 8 amps, 110 volts).

I've purchased a Marinco "reverse Y" at the suggestion of Joel

Potter when we talked together at the Annapolis Boat Show.
The "reverse Y" is capable of supplying 220 with more amperage than
the transformer, but I have couple of questions. The boat has a 220
cord in its lazarette with a French? three pronged male fitting on
the end using three round contacts in a "v" arrangement. Does any
one have any recommendations for how to mate it with the "reverse Y"
female plug?

Also, the 220 volt cord in the lazarette is not very long. I
already have one 50' 110v Marinco cord. It seems to make sense to
just buy another matching cord and connect the "reverse y" closer to
the boat or even in the lazarette at the end of two 110 cords
(rather than plugging the "reverse Y" into the two 110 30 amp plugs
that the marina supplies). Feeding two 110 cords into the secured
lazarette might also prevent the expensive "reverse y' from
disappearing. Does anyone have any advice on this?

I've been told that ABYC standards require a breaker within just

a few feet of where AC power enters the boat. Mine doesn't go
through a breaker until it gets to the GFI breaker in my galley
panel. I am aware of the boat's conformance with CE standards, but
my insurance company likes ABYC, and the idea of a breaker BEFORE
the cord enters the conduit from the lazarette makes sense to me.
Any thoughts on this?

Thanks again, Bob Santorin "Hanalei"

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-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 10:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 220Volt Power

RE the color codes wires posting earlier:

I have been watching these postings and studying the differences

between USA and European power for some time. I had some questions
about this posting and would like to state my understanding and have
those in the know do a reality check for me. ( NOTE that this
discussion doesn't consider the difference in frequency of the
two
types of power, i.e. 60 Hertz in the USA and 50 Hertz for European
power or the differences in European grounding practices as compared
to the USA. )

Lets start with what I have. The 220 Volt AC cord that comes from
my Amel SM 2000 (Hull # 335) has three wires in it. Alivier
Beauteau told me that it was rated at 30 Amperes at 220 Volts AC.
The color coding is based on the latest European color code and is
as follows:

1. Brown = European Hot
2. Blue = European Neutral
3. Green with Yellow Stripe = European Grounding (or
Safety Ground)

USA 220 Volt AC typically has 4 wires with color codes as follows:

1. Red = USA Hot
2. Black = USA Hot
3. White = USA Neutral for 110 volt
circuits only
4. Green = USA Grounding (of Safety
Ground)

NOW, as you measure Voltage AC (RMS = root mean square voltage,
which is what your digital volt meter more or less shows you)
between the following points you will get the following readings:

EUROPEAN: Between the Brown and Blue Reads 220 Volts AC
Between the Blue and the Green with Yellow Stripe
Reads Zero Volts AC
Between the Brown and the Green with Yellow Stripe
Reads 220 Volts AC


USA: Between the Red and Black Reads 220 Volts AC
Between the Red and White Reads 110 Volts AC
Between the Black and White Reads 110 Volts AC
Between the White and Green Reads Zero Volts AC

When wiring the Amel 220 Volt AC cable from the boat to USA
power the following should be done:

a. The Amel Brown Wire (European Hot) should go to either the
USA Red or Black wire
b. The Amel Blue Wire (European Neutral) should go to the USA
Red or Black wire (whichever the Amel Brown wire isn't connected
to. My understanding, and please somebody correct me if I am wrong,
is that the polarity of these two connections (red and/or black to
blue and/or brown makes no difference).
Finally the Amel Green with Yellow Stripe wire should go to the USA
Green wire.
The USA white wire has nothing connected to it from the European
cable.

The given appliance or load doesn't care about polarity since it
is
alternating current (AC). All the load cares about is that there is
an EMF (ElectroMotive Force) of 220 Volts pushing the electrons back
and forth in the wires of the load (e.g. the lamp, motor etc.) Again
this discussion doesn't take into consideration the frequency
with
which the electrons are moved back and forth (Hertz). If I
understand it correctly the naming of the wires (Hot, Neutral etc is
somewhat arbitrary) and hence confusing at times.

So there you have it, the distillation of my many sources. I have
an electronics background but there we deal mostly with DC voltage
and theory. I have approached two commercial electricians here in
the USA to verify the differences between USA and European power and
they both stammered and stuttered until I had basically no
confidence in their confused explanations. I haven't tried
wiring
up my Amel to this standard yet so if someone else would try it out
and let me know if anything smokes I can then refine the theory
further. Please, your comments and criticisms are welcome.

Sincerely, Gary Silver s/v Liahona currently in Tortola at
Nanny Cay






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