Date   

Re: [Amel] Replacement fresh water pump

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

John, 4 years? Did you have a train to catch? We took 6! Ian

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: symoondog@hotmail.com
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 16:43:19 +0000
Subject: RE: [Amel] Replacement fresh water pump


Thanks Ian, I will try that when I get back to the boat. We are back home in Norfolk Virginia, taking a break ."Moon Dog" Is on the hard in Venezuela, also getting a rest. We have almost completed our circumnavigation of South America. It's taken 4 years. I must be getting old, Years ago we sailed around the world in less time then that. John




To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com
Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 18:20:03 +0000
Subject: RE: [Amel] Replacement fresh water pump







Hi John, I have recently done the same. With mine, there is a red wire that goes from the pressure switch at one end of the pump to the motor at the other end. That wire carries the positive but only when the pressure switch kicks in. Intercept that wire with an additional wire that goes to the light on the green light. Hope that does the trick, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, San Carles de la Rapita, Spain


To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: symoondog@hotmail.com
Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 16:18:45 +0000
Subject: RE: [Amel] Replacement fresh water pump



I put in a Jabsco veritable speed 4.5 gallons per minute. Very quiet, light weight,small, and uses very little amps. Its model no. 31755. The only problem is that I can't figure out how to wire it so the light will come on in the cabin, other then that Its been perfect for 4 years. John "Moon Dog" SM248



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: maramu261@yahoo.com
Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 04:49:43 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Replacement fresh water pump






Hello, I need to replace my 22 year old Feit pressure pump, Any experiences or opinions for the replacement? How high can I go in psi and gpm without taxing the system? Should I try to find a rebuild kit for this old pump and carry it as a spare? Thank you, Ross










------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links














------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: [Amel] Climma Heating

Dimitris Krassopoulos <dkra@...>
 

Bill,



Thanks for the excellent research. There are very correct assumptions to your investigation. Thanks again



Dimitris

Alma Libre Too



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 8:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating





Eric,

There is a small "safety thermal switch" on the electric heating coil assembly. This switch opens as the temperature of the switch rises. And, it does not take much of an increase...for instance at Medium fan speed that switch will open and cut off current to the heating coils because the switch temperature rises above range. I do not know the temp specs and range of this "safety thermal switch", but it is low enough to require HIGH fan speed. See the "safety thermal switch" here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589422353/view?picmode=original <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc> &mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

With the fan assembly dismounted from the Condenser Coil Assembly, I energized the heating...The fan started turning, I saw the "safety thermal switch" close and within seconds the switch opened because of zero air flow...very sensitive. Also, if you notice my photo, the switch is conducive to corrosion.

This safety thermal switch is only in the Heating circuit and is not connected to the A/C circuit.

To answer your question I believe that the one or more of the 3 420-470 volt 2uF polypropylene capacitors has deteriorated and out of spec. These capacitors control the fan speed. If you replace them I think you will find what I experienced: High speed will be much higher than it was before you replace them. I believe that I simply did not notice that the fan had slowed because the capacitors deteriorated slowly over time.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , kimberlite <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Bill,

I am just wondering why the A/C works fine on high speed but the heater cuts
out.

Any thoughts?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 11:49 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating





Danny,

The manual states "klaxton." But, I am sure that the manual was originally
written in some other language and translated to English. The "klaxton" is
definitely a thermo-switch that opens at a certain temperature. I uploaded a
photo of it at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589
422353/view?picmode=original
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/58
9422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
<simms@> wrote:

Hi Don't know where it may be located but a klaxon is a loud noise
producing horn eg a motor car in English it has a horn, in some european
languages it is called a klaxon.
regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui New ZealandÂ

From: Richard03801 <richard03801@>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> "
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Thursday, 17 November 2011 1:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating


Â
Hi Bill by the sound of it test the condensers but be sure you discharge
each one as you test it. You will need a multi meter with that feature. You
can buy replacements from most electronic stores.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 16, 2011, at 4:38, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@>
wrote:

I am experiencing a problem with the aft cabin Climma Heater.

It will turn ON and after about 20 seconds the heating element will turn
ON and the unit will pull about 5-6 amps. It will run for 1 to 2 minutes,
then the heating element will turn off and the amp usage drops to around 1
amp.

I read in the Climma Manual the following: "If there is a failure of the
fan or the air circulation is clogged or obstructed, an internal safety
klaxon cuts the element off to prevent overheating." I assume that by
"safety klaxon" the manual is referring to a thermostatic switch which
disables the heating cycle as a safety measure.

Can anyone give me some additional information regarding this "safety
klaxon"/thermostatic switch. My questions are: Where is it located? Any
photos? Have you replaced it? Where did you source the part, etc., etc.

Thanks,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus













Re: [Amel] Climma Heating

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Hi, I fully understand that now... the capacitors are the answer never leave home without spares..
Richard
SM 209 For Sale in Annapolis.



________________________________
From: pop 1&1 <jlm@jlmertz.fr>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 2:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating


 
For your information on Cottonbay we use all the 3 heating positions
witch 3 fans position and it works well.
In the Clima heating box there are two things
1- thermal switch that regulate the air temperature in this box at
approximatively 60°C
2- an thermal fuse (120°C) that protect the boat for fire risk if the
thermal switch failed
JLuc on CottonBay
----------------------------------------------------------

Le 21/11/2011 07:04, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe a écrit :

Richard,

Yes, the fan needs to be set to HIGH when in the heat mode. My point
was that the fan was NOT running at HIGH speed when set to HIGH
because the fan speed capacitors (CM, C1 & C2) were not functioning
properly and needed to be replaced.

Because the fan was not running at HIGH speed (when set to HIGH), the
thermal safety switch was cutting OFF the current to the electric
heating coils.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Richard03801
<richard03801@...> wrote:

Hi according to the heater manual the electric heater fan ALWAYS
needs to be on high. To keep it from turning off.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 20, 2011, at 1:56, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Eric,

There is a small "safety thermal switch" on the electric heating
coil assembly. This switch opens as the temperature of the switch
rises. And, it does not take much of an increase...for instance at
Medium fan speed that switch will open and cut off current to the
heating coils because the switch temperature rises above range. I do
not know the temp specs and range of this "safety thermal switch", but
it is low enough to require HIGH fan speed. See the "safety thermal
switch" here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>

With the fan assembly dismounted from the Condenser Coil Assembly,
I energized the heating...The fan started turning, I saw the "safety
thermal switch" close and within seconds the switch opened because of
zero air flow...very sensitive. Also, if you notice my photo, the
switch is conducive to corrosion.

This safety thermal switch is only in the Heating circuit and is
not connected to the A/C circuit.

To answer your question I believe that the one or more of the 3
420-470 volt 2uF polypropylene capacitors has deteriorated and out of
spec. These capacitors control the fan speed. If you replace them I
think you will find what I experienced: High speed will be much higher
than it was before you replace them. I believe that I simply did not
notice that the fan had slowed because the capacitors deteriorated
slowly over time.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, kimberlite <kimberlite@>
wrote:

Bill,

I am just wondering why the A/C works fine on high speed but the
heater cuts
out.

Any thoughts?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill
aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 11:49 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating





Danny,

The manual states "klaxton." But, I am sure that the manual was
originally
written in some other language and translated to English. The
"klaxton" is
definitely a thermo-switch that opens at a certain temperature.
I uploaded a
photo of it at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589
422353/view?picmode=original
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/58
9422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
<simms@> wrote:

Hi Don't know where it may be located but a klaxon is a loud noise
producing horn eg a motor car in English it has a horn, in some
european
languages it is called a klaxon.
regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui New ZealandÃ,

From: Richard03801 <richard03801@>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> "
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Thursday, 17 November 2011 1:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating


Ã,
Hi Bill by the sound of it test the condensers but be sure you
discharge
each one as you test it. You will need a multi meter with that
feature. You
can buy replacements from most electronic stores.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 16, 2011, at 4:38, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@>
wrote:

I am experiencing a problem with the aft cabin Climma Heater.

It will turn ON and after about 20 seconds the heating
element will turn
ON and the unit will pull about 5-6 amps. It will run for 1 to 2
minutes,
then the heating element will turn off and the amp usage drops
to around 1
amp.

I read in the Climma Manual the following: "If there is a
failure of the
fan or the air circulation is clogged or obstructed, an internal
safety
klaxon cuts the element off to prevent overheating." I assume
that by
"safety klaxon" the manual is referring to a thermostatic switch
which
disables the heating cycle as a safety measure.

Can anyone give me some additional information regarding
this "safety
klaxon"/thermostatic switch. My questions are: Where is it
located? Any
photos? Have you replaced it? Where did you source the part,
etc., etc.

Thanks,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Sailing to Florida

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

We like the off shore route given that there is a cold front that blows NE about every three days this time of year, and most of the inlets along the coast require local knowledge to enter one and two the tide/currents in these inlets can be a hand full.  We prefer the "sea" room on the east side of the stream.. getting caught between the stream and shallow coast can be deadly.... I've lost friends and they've lost boats as a result of being caught....

Good luck!
Richard
SM 209 For Sale in Annapolis 



________________________________
From: Veit Mueller <veitm@ymail.com>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 9:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Sailing to Florida


 
Thanks for the post. We just left Cape Charles, VA on our way South.
still checking weather etc before we make a final decision.
Cheers,
Veit
ATMAN SM 215

Sent from vm iPad

On Nov 20, 2011, at 4:19 PM, "rossirossix4" <rossidesigngroup@gmail.com> wrote:

We arrived in Beaufort, NC yesterday afternoon after a 32 hour sail from Hampton, VA on the "inside" of the gulf stream around Cape Hatteras. We stayed within a few miles of the shore, avoiding most of the current of the gulf stream. We averaged 7+ knots for the 230 nm trip and it was pleasant (a bit cold this time of year)ran the diesel a total of 2 hours. BUT we paid close attention to the weather forecast and had favorable winds. There are fish pots out from Virginia Beach so be careful there at night, otherwise we did not see any. Again, rounding Cape Hatteras and Cape Lookout deserves respect and careful consideration of the weather but is worth a look.

Hampton, VA municipal marina is a great stop...$1.20/ft with SSCA, $1.25 BOATUS AND if you buy 2 nights 3rd is free...comes to $0.80/foot if you stay 3 days!
Bob
Brittany de la Mer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "veitm@..." <veitm@...> wrote:

Hello all:
We have our boat in Annapolis and are planning to sail her South to Florida - Ft Lauderdale.
Wondering wether to go East or West of the Gulfstream.
Anybody any good tips?
Cheers,
Veit - ATMAN SM 215
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Replacement fresh water pump

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Thanks Ian, I will try that when I get back to the boat. We are back home in Norfolk Virginia, taking a break ."Moon Dog" Is on the hard in Venezuela, also getting a rest. We have almost completed our circumnavigation of South America. It's taken 4 years. I must be getting old, Years ago we sailed around the world in less time then that. John




To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com
Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 18:20:03 +0000
Subject: RE: [Amel] Replacement fresh water pump







Hi John, I have recently done the same. With mine, there is a red wire that goes from the pressure switch at one end of the pump to the motor at the other end. That wire carries the positive but only when the pressure switch kicks in. Intercept that wire with an additional wire that goes to the light on the green light. Hope that does the trick, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, San Carles de la Rapita, Spain


To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: symoondog@hotmail.com
Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 16:18:45 +0000
Subject: RE: [Amel] Replacement fresh water pump



I put in a Jabsco veritable speed 4.5 gallons per minute. Very quiet, light weight,small, and uses very little amps. Its model no. 31755. The only problem is that I can't figure out how to wire it so the light will come on in the cabin, other then that Its been perfect for 4 years. John "Moon Dog" SM248



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: maramu261@yahoo.com
Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 04:49:43 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Replacement fresh water pump






Hello, I need to replace my 22 year old Feit pressure pump, Any experiences or opinions for the replacement? How high can I go in psi and gpm without taxing the system? Should I try to find a rebuild kit for this old pump and carry it as a spare? Thank you, Ross






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Sailing to Florida

Kimberly Cerillo <kcvabeach@...>
 

We have sailed down to Florida (the Keys/Ft. Lauderdale) a few times. We pretty much always stay inside the stream. We feel that we can check out the different areas along the coast (we love Charleston and St. Augustine) and can duck in if the weather becomes adverse. We always choose our weather window wisely when going around Hatteras, and tend to be more cautious than most. We have been around Hatteras about 6 times and have not ever hit any adverse wind/seas. If you are cautious with your weather, the passage can be beautiful, however, if you are not cautious, it isn’t called the Graveyard of the Atlantic for nothing. We have friends that encountered 25-30’ seas off Hatteras and ended up turning back towards Norfolk.



We were home ported in the Little Creek area of Norfolk for a couple of years and the crab pots and fishing nets can be problematic in the Chesapeake as they can be found in channels and are as likely as not to be poorly marked (we have seen quite a few that have black floats instead of the day glow orange).



If you have the time, stay inside and stop at the many beautiful ports along the coast.



George and Kim

SM #353 Indecent



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Veit Mueller
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 10:05 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Sailing to Florida





Thanks for the post. We just left Cape Charles, VA on our way South.
still checking weather etc before we make a final decision.
Cheers,
Veit
ATMAN SM 215

Sent from vm iPad

On Nov 20, 2011, at 4:19 PM, "rossirossix4" <rossidesigngroup@gmail.com <mailto:rossidesigngroup%40gmail.com> > wrote:

We arrived in Beaufort, NC yesterday afternoon after a 32 hour sail from Hampton, VA on the "inside" of the gulf stream around Cape Hatteras. We stayed within a few miles of the shore, avoiding most of the current of the gulf stream. We averaged 7+ knots for the 230 nm trip and it was pleasant (a bit cold this time of year)ran the diesel a total of 2 hours. BUT we paid close attention to the weather forecast and had favorable winds. There are fish pots out from Virginia Beach so be careful there at night, otherwise we did not see any. Again, rounding Cape Hatteras and Cape Lookout deserves respect and careful consideration of the weather but is worth a look.

Hampton, VA municipal marina is a great stop...$1.20/ft with SSCA, $1.25 BOATUS AND if you buy 2 nights 3rd is free...comes to $0.80/foot if you stay 3 days!
Bob
Brittany de la Mer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "veitm@..." <veitm@...> wrote:

Hello all:
We have our boat in Annapolis and are planning to sail her South to Florida - Ft Lauderdale.
Wondering wether to go East or West of the Gulfstream.
Anybody any good tips?
Cheers,
Veit - ATMAN SM 215
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Climma Heating

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

No,
1 - after some time (years)_the thermal switch failed_ (low cost
switch) and for the aft cabin it is the third replacement !!
2 - the capacitors value after some time decrease an the fan can stop
and in the low position the thermal protection can operate (or not).

For information on CottonBay we have the old and the new model and I put
the same components on both (actualy I replace both parts every two
years and check capacitors)
switch that I use :
http://www.conrad.fr/controleur_et_regulateur_de_temperature_courant_de_charge_max_63_a_cos_06_1_mot_a_p_48674_49243_839984_224409_FAS
thermal protection :
http://www.conrad.fr/fusible_thermique_courant_de_charge_10_a_diam_4_mm_p_48674_49243_595221_998716

If it's can help any you I can send this parts to you
Fair winds
JLuc
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Le 21/11/2011 14:02, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe a écrit :

JLuc,

Thank you for your participation on this posting, the previous
information that you posted, your photographs, and the temperature
range of the thermal switch and fuse. From my experience with the
switch, I assume that the temperature ranges you have are for the
temperature of the actual thermal switch and the actual fuse.

The Climma distributor in the US, Amel SAV and the Amel Manual, the
Climma printed information, the Climma Operation Manual and also other
Amel owners state that the fan should be on HIGH when operating the
Heater. For what reason did yo have to replace the heating coil
assembly including the thermal switch? Could it have been because you
did not operate the fan on HIGH?

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, pop 1&1 <jlm@...> wrote:

For your information on Cottonbay we use all the 3 heating positions
witch 3 fans position and it works well.
In the Clima heating box there are two things
1- thermal switch that regulate the air temperature in this box at
approximatively 60°C
2- an thermal fuse (120°C) that protect the boat for fire risk if the
thermal switch failed
JLuc on CottonBay
----------------------------------------------------------

Le 21/11/2011 07:04, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe a écrit :

Richard,

Yes, the fan needs to be set to HIGH when in the heat mode. My point
was that the fan was NOT running at HIGH speed when set to HIGH
because the fan speed capacitors (CM, C1 & C2) were not functioning
properly and needed to be replaced.

Because the fan was not running at HIGH speed (when set to HIGH), the
thermal safety switch was cutting OFF the current to the electric
heating coils.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Richard03801
<richard03801@> wrote:

Hi according to the heater manual the electric heater fan ALWAYS
needs to be on high. To keep it from turning off.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 20, 2011, at 1:56, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Eric,

There is a small "safety thermal switch" on the electric heating
coil assembly. This switch opens as the temperature of the switch
rises. And, it does not take much of an increase...for instance at
Medium fan speed that switch will open and cut off current to the
heating coils because the switch temperature rises above range. I do
not know the temp specs and range of this "safety thermal switch",
but
it is low enough to require HIGH fan speed. See the "safety thermal
switch" here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>>

With the fan assembly dismounted from the Condenser Coil
Assembly,
I energized the heating...The fan started turning, I saw the "safety
thermal switch" close and within seconds the switch opened because of
zero air flow...very sensitive. Also, if you notice my photo, the
switch is conducive to corrosion.

This safety thermal switch is only in the Heating circuit and is
not connected to the A/C circuit.

To answer your question I believe that the one or more of the 3
420-470 volt 2uF polypropylene capacitors has deteriorated and out of
spec. These capacitors control the fan speed. If you replace them I
think you will find what I experienced: High speed will be much
higher
than it was before you replace them. I believe that I simply did not
notice that the fan had slowed because the capacitors deteriorated
slowly over time.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, kimberlite <kimberlite@>
wrote:

Bill,

I am just wondering why the A/C works fine on high speed but
the
heater cuts
out.

Any thoughts?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Judy and
Bill
aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 11:49 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating





Danny,

The manual states "klaxton." But, I am sure that the manual was
originally
written in some other language and translated to English. The
"klaxton" is
definitely a thermo-switch that opens at a certain temperature.
I uploaded a
photo of it at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589
422353/view?picmode=original
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/58
9422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Danny and
Yvonne SIMMS
<simms@> wrote:

Hi Don't know where it may be located but a klaxon is a
loud noise
producing horn eg a motor car in English it has a horn, in some
european
languages it is called a klaxon.
regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui New ZealandÃ,

From: Richard03801 <richard03801@>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> "
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Thursday, 17 November 2011 1:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating


Ã,
Hi Bill by the sound of it test the condensers but be sure
you
discharge
each one as you test it. You will need a multi meter with that
feature. You
can buy replacements from most electronic stores.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 16, 2011, at 4:38, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@>
wrote:

I am experiencing a problem with the aft cabin Climma
Heater.

It will turn ON and after about 20 seconds the heating
element will turn
ON and the unit will pull about 5-6 amps. It will run for 1
to 2
minutes,
then the heating element will turn off and the amp usage drops
to around 1
amp.

I read in the Climma Manual the following: "If there is a
failure of the
fan or the air circulation is clogged or obstructed, an
internal
safety
klaxon cuts the element off to prevent overheating." I assume
that by
"safety klaxon" the manual is referring to a thermostatic
switch
which
disables the heating cycle as a safety measure.

Can anyone give me some additional information regarding
this "safety
klaxon"/thermostatic switch. My questions are: Where is it
located? Any
photos? Have you replaced it? Where did you source the part,
etc., etc.

Thanks,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Re: [Amel] Re: Sailing to Florida

Veit Mueller <veitm@...>
 

Thanks for the post. We just left Cape Charles, VA on our way South.
still checking weather etc before we make a final decision.
Cheers,
Veit
ATMAN SM 215

Sent from vm iPad

On Nov 20, 2011, at 4:19 PM, "rossirossix4" <rossidesigngroup@gmail.com> wrote:

We arrived in Beaufort, NC yesterday afternoon after a 32 hour sail from Hampton, VA on the "inside" of the gulf stream around Cape Hatteras. We stayed within a few miles of the shore, avoiding most of the current of the gulf stream. We averaged 7+ knots for the 230 nm trip and it was pleasant (a bit cold this time of year)ran the diesel a total of 2 hours. BUT we paid close attention to the weather forecast and had favorable winds. There are fish pots out from Virginia Beach so be careful there at night, otherwise we did not see any. Again, rounding Cape Hatteras and Cape Lookout deserves respect and careful consideration of the weather but is worth a look.

Hampton, VA municipal marina is a great stop...$1.20/ft with SSCA, $1.25 BOATUS AND if you buy 2 nights 3rd is free...comes to $0.80/foot if you stay 3 days!
Bob
Brittany de la Mer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "veitm@..." <veitm@...> wrote:

Hello all:
We have our boat in Annapolis and are planning to sail her South to Florida - Ft Lauderdale.
Wondering wether to go East or West of the Gulfstream.
Anybody any good tips?
Cheers,
Veit - ATMAN SM 215


Re: [Amel] Climma Heating

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

JLuc,

Thank you for your participation on this posting, the previous information that you posted, your photographs, and the temperature range of the thermal switch and fuse. From my experience with the switch, I assume that the temperature ranges you have are for the temperature of the actual thermal switch and the actual fuse.

The Climma distributor in the US, Amel SAV and the Amel Manual, the Climma printed information, the Climma Operation Manual and also other Amel owners state that the fan should be on HIGH when operating the Heater. For what reason did yo have to replace the heating coil assembly including the thermal switch? Could it have been because you did not operate the fan on HIGH?

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, pop 1&1 <jlm@...> wrote:

For your information on Cottonbay we use all the 3 heating positions
witch 3 fans position and it works well.
In the Clima heating box there are two things
1- thermal switch that regulate the air temperature in this box at
approximatively 60°C
2- an thermal fuse (120°C) that protect the boat for fire risk if the
thermal switch failed
JLuc on CottonBay
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Le 21/11/2011 07:04, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe a écrit :

Richard,

Yes, the fan needs to be set to HIGH when in the heat mode. My point
was that the fan was NOT running at HIGH speed when set to HIGH
because the fan speed capacitors (CM, C1 & C2) were not functioning
properly and needed to be replaced.

Because the fan was not running at HIGH speed (when set to HIGH), the
thermal safety switch was cutting OFF the current to the electric
heating coils.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Richard03801
<richard03801@> wrote:

Hi according to the heater manual the electric heater fan ALWAYS
needs to be on high. To keep it from turning off.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 20, 2011, at 1:56, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Eric,

There is a small "safety thermal switch" on the electric heating
coil assembly. This switch opens as the temperature of the switch
rises. And, it does not take much of an increase...for instance at
Medium fan speed that switch will open and cut off current to the
heating coils because the switch temperature rises above range. I do
not know the temp specs and range of this "safety thermal switch", but
it is low enough to require HIGH fan speed. See the "safety thermal
switch" here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>

With the fan assembly dismounted from the Condenser Coil Assembly,
I energized the heating...The fan started turning, I saw the "safety
thermal switch" close and within seconds the switch opened because of
zero air flow...very sensitive. Also, if you notice my photo, the
switch is conducive to corrosion.

This safety thermal switch is only in the Heating circuit and is
not connected to the A/C circuit.

To answer your question I believe that the one or more of the 3
420-470 volt 2uF polypropylene capacitors has deteriorated and out of
spec. These capacitors control the fan speed. If you replace them I
think you will find what I experienced: High speed will be much higher
than it was before you replace them. I believe that I simply did not
notice that the fan had slowed because the capacitors deteriorated
slowly over time.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, kimberlite <kimberlite@>
wrote:

Bill,

I am just wondering why the A/C works fine on high speed but the
heater cuts
out.

Any thoughts?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill
aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 11:49 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating





Danny,

The manual states "klaxton." But, I am sure that the manual was
originally
written in some other language and translated to English. The
"klaxton" is
definitely a thermo-switch that opens at a certain temperature.
I uploaded a
photo of it at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589
422353/view?picmode=original
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/58
9422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
<simms@> wrote:

Hi Don't know where it may be located but a klaxon is a loud noise
producing horn eg a motor car in English it has a horn, in some
european
languages it is called a klaxon.
regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui New ZealandÃ,

From: Richard03801 <richard03801@>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> "
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Thursday, 17 November 2011 1:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating


Ã,
Hi Bill by the sound of it test the condensers but be sure you
discharge
each one as you test it. You will need a multi meter with that
feature. You
can buy replacements from most electronic stores.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 16, 2011, at 4:38, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@>
wrote:

I am experiencing a problem with the aft cabin Climma Heater.

It will turn ON and after about 20 seconds the heating
element will turn
ON and the unit will pull about 5-6 amps. It will run for 1 to 2
minutes,
then the heating element will turn off and the amp usage drops
to around 1
amp.

I read in the Climma Manual the following: "If there is a
failure of the
fan or the air circulation is clogged or obstructed, an internal
safety
klaxon cuts the element off to prevent overheating." I assume
that by
"safety klaxon" the manual is referring to a thermostatic switch
which
disables the heating cycle as a safety measure.

Can anyone give me some additional information regarding
this "safety
klaxon"/thermostatic switch. My questions are: Where is it
located? Any
photos? Have you replaced it? Where did you source the part,
etc., etc.

Thanks,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Climma Heating

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

For your information on Cottonbay we use all the 3 heating positions
witch 3 fans position and it works well.
In the Clima heating box there are two things
1- thermal switch that regulate the air temperature in this box at
approximatively 60°C
2- an thermal fuse (120°C) that protect the boat for fire risk if the
thermal switch failed
JLuc on CottonBay
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Le 21/11/2011 07:04, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe a écrit :

Richard,

Yes, the fan needs to be set to HIGH when in the heat mode. My point
was that the fan was NOT running at HIGH speed when set to HIGH
because the fan speed capacitors (CM, C1 & C2) were not functioning
properly and needed to be replaced.

Because the fan was not running at HIGH speed (when set to HIGH), the
thermal safety switch was cutting OFF the current to the electric
heating coils.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Richard03801
<richard03801@...> wrote:

Hi according to the heater manual the electric heater fan ALWAYS
needs to be on high. To keep it from turning off.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 20, 2011, at 1:56, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Eric,

There is a small "safety thermal switch" on the electric heating
coil assembly. This switch opens as the temperature of the switch
rises. And, it does not take much of an increase...for instance at
Medium fan speed that switch will open and cut off current to the
heating coils because the switch temperature rises above range. I do
not know the temp specs and range of this "safety thermal switch", but
it is low enough to require HIGH fan speed. See the "safety thermal
switch" here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>

With the fan assembly dismounted from the Condenser Coil Assembly,
I energized the heating...The fan started turning, I saw the "safety
thermal switch" close and within seconds the switch opened because of
zero air flow...very sensitive. Also, if you notice my photo, the
switch is conducive to corrosion.

This safety thermal switch is only in the Heating circuit and is
not connected to the A/C circuit.

To answer your question I believe that the one or more of the 3
420-470 volt 2uF polypropylene capacitors has deteriorated and out of
spec. These capacitors control the fan speed. If you replace them I
think you will find what I experienced: High speed will be much higher
than it was before you replace them. I believe that I simply did not
notice that the fan had slowed because the capacitors deteriorated
slowly over time.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, kimberlite <kimberlite@>
wrote:

Bill,

I am just wondering why the A/C works fine on high speed but the
heater cuts
out.

Any thoughts?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill
aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 11:49 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating





Danny,

The manual states "klaxton." But, I am sure that the manual was
originally
written in some other language and translated to English. The
"klaxton" is
definitely a thermo-switch that opens at a certain temperature.
I uploaded a
photo of it at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589
422353/view?picmode=original
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/58
9422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
<simms@> wrote:

Hi Don't know where it may be located but a klaxon is a loud noise
producing horn eg a motor car in English it has a horn, in some
european
languages it is called a klaxon.
regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui New ZealandÃ,

From: Richard03801 <richard03801@>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> "
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Thursday, 17 November 2011 1:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating


Ã,
Hi Bill by the sound of it test the condensers but be sure you
discharge
each one as you test it. You will need a multi meter with that
feature. You
can buy replacements from most electronic stores.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 16, 2011, at 4:38, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@>
wrote:

I am experiencing a problem with the aft cabin Climma Heater.

It will turn ON and after about 20 seconds the heating
element will turn
ON and the unit will pull about 5-6 amps. It will run for 1 to 2
minutes,
then the heating element will turn off and the amp usage drops
to around 1
amp.

I read in the Climma Manual the following: "If there is a
failure of the
fan or the air circulation is clogged or obstructed, an internal
safety
klaxon cuts the element off to prevent overheating." I assume
that by
"safety klaxon" the manual is referring to a thermostatic switch
which
disables the heating cycle as a safety measure.

Can anyone give me some additional information regarding
this "safety
klaxon"/thermostatic switch. My questions are: Where is it
located? Any
photos? Have you replaced it? Where did you source the part,
etc., etc.

Thanks,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








Re: Amel Bow Thruster Tool: a mystery leak?

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Jose,

Two possibilities, based on what you said:
1.) Is it possible that one or more of the foam seals were in the wrong place. In a set of 3 seals. one is made of a substance that is different than the other two.

2.) Did you pin the bow thruster in the UP position as soon as you were finished with it?

When I have correctly done the above and serviced every 2 years, I eliminated the water egress.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Jose" <jvenegas@...> wrote:

Well, we do have a mystery here or what?
I would have agreed with Garry that the two seals on the bottom should do the trick, particularly if they are pressed against the flat fiberglass surface of the boat. However my experience tells me otherwise and I have had water coming in two out of the three years I have owned my SM2000 in spite of 3 full seal changes.
The first leak happened on the inaugural trip from Fort Pierce to Savanna. The previous owner had just changed all the 3 seals weeks before the sale. During the overnight passage we had no particularly large waves under a nice 15 knots reach. However, after I arrived to Savanna, I found the forward bilge had salt water almost up to the floor! Not the kind of thing a new boat owner wants to see after his first cruise. In the slip, I make sure the water was not coming from anywhere else, and that the boat was not sinking. Then, I changed the 3 foam and the lip seals and reduced by a half turn the length of the shaft to increase the compression to the bottom seals when the pin is in. Results: no more water for two seasons.

Last spring I first noted a small leak that increased progressively and, by the middle of the season, I was getting two good gallons of water in a trip from Boston to Province Town. After I saw with my own eyes that the water coming through between the lip seal and the shaft, I made an extra seal that I could wrap around the shaft, which kept the leak at bait for the rest of the season. I will be posting pictures of the seal because I think something like this should be on every Amel spare part box.
Any way today, with the boat on the ground, I took the thruster out and found that the (lip) seal around the shaft was, as expected, stretched. However, both the bottom and the top foam seals were absolutely intact. So Garry, this trashes the theory that the bottom foam seals, compressed with enough pressure, can prevent the water from coming in. Remember that I removed a turn increasing considerably the compression on the foam seals with the pin in.
Question for the forum: how can water get around the two bottom foam seals under good compression? The sealing surface from below looks nice and flat. For me this is a mystery.


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@> wrote:

Hmmmm. Kent, there must be something fundamentally wrong here. I think we have both sailed many of the same waters and it just doesn't seem right that I have had no trouble in this area and you seem to have been plagued by the issue. I know I have sailed and or motored with some very significant pounding and still have had no water ingress. Is it possible that the seals have never been properly installed? Did you mention that there were three seals on the outside?

In the retracted state, the top of the bow thruster "anti-torque cap" (see picture #2 in the folder entitled bow thruster service) should compress the two rather dense neoprene seals against the roof of the bow thruster trunk creating a compressive seal against the shaft. In the extended position, the lip seal recessed into the trunk top and the foam seal attached above the lip seal should prevent water ingress. The shaft should be relatively smooth and not have grooves or ridges in it that would inhibit a good circumferential seal.

As a trouble shooting step you might place a large dollop of modeling clay on the top of the anti-torque cap next to the shaft, install the bow thruster, then retract the bow thrust, then remove the bow thruster and measure the height of the modeling clay to see if that distance is roughly the depth of the two external seals. Perhaps due to how your trunk was built or differences in the manufacture of the bow thruster itself, you aren't getting compression of the seals upon retraction.

The water in the oil is a leaking lip seal on the bow thruster prop shaft and is another mater all together. The sleeve previously describe, and depicted in some un-labeled pictures in the Photos section was indeed for the bow thruster prop shaft.

Just some thoughts,

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, karkauai@ wrote:

Hmmm. Have changed the seals (or had them changed) every year and its always leaked water into the boat. This is the first time I've had water in the oil. I'll try Erics silicone trick this time.
Didn't someone install a thin sleeve on the shaft, or was that on the main drive?
Thanks, your report is encouraging.
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY
Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone powered by Alltel


Re: [Amel] Climma Heating

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Richard,

Yes, the fan needs to be set to HIGH when in the heat mode. My point was that the fan was NOT running at HIGH speed when set to HIGH because the fan speed capacitors (CM, C1 & C2) were not functioning properly and needed to be replaced.

Because the fan was not running at HIGH speed (when set to HIGH), the thermal safety switch was cutting OFF the current to the electric heating coils.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Richard03801 <richard03801@...> wrote:

Hi according to the heater manual the electric heater fan ALWAYS needs to be on high. To keep it from turning off.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 20, 2011, at 1:56, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Eric,

There is a small "safety thermal switch" on the electric heating coil assembly. This switch opens as the temperature of the switch rises. And, it does not take much of an increase...for instance at Medium fan speed that switch will open and cut off current to the heating coils because the switch temperature rises above range. I do not know the temp specs and range of this "safety thermal switch", but it is low enough to require HIGH fan speed. See the "safety thermal switch" here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

With the fan assembly dismounted from the Condenser Coil Assembly, I energized the heating...The fan started turning, I saw the "safety thermal switch" close and within seconds the switch opened because of zero air flow...very sensitive. Also, if you notice my photo, the switch is conducive to corrosion.

This safety thermal switch is only in the Heating circuit and is not connected to the A/C circuit.

To answer your question I believe that the one or more of the 3 420-470 volt 2uF polypropylene capacitors has deteriorated and out of spec. These capacitors control the fan speed. If you replace them I think you will find what I experienced: High speed will be much higher than it was before you replace them. I believe that I simply did not notice that the fan had slowed because the capacitors deteriorated slowly over time.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@> wrote:

Bill,

I am just wondering why the A/C works fine on high speed but the heater cuts
out.

Any thoughts?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 11:49 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating





Danny,

The manual states "klaxton." But, I am sure that the manual was originally
written in some other language and translated to English. The "klaxton" is
definitely a thermo-switch that opens at a certain temperature. I uploaded a
photo of it at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589
422353/view?picmode=original
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/58
9422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
<simms@> wrote:

Hi Don't know where it may be located but a klaxon is a loud noise
producing horn eg a motor car in English it has a horn, in some european
languages it is called a klaxon.
regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui New ZealandÂ

From: Richard03801 <richard03801@>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> "
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Thursday, 17 November 2011 1:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating


Â
Hi Bill by the sound of it test the condensers but be sure you discharge
each one as you test it. You will need a multi meter with that feature. You
can buy replacements from most electronic stores.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 16, 2011, at 4:38, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@>
wrote:

I am experiencing a problem with the aft cabin Climma Heater.

It will turn ON and after about 20 seconds the heating element will turn
ON and the unit will pull about 5-6 amps. It will run for 1 to 2 minutes,
then the heating element will turn off and the amp usage drops to around 1
amp.

I read in the Climma Manual the following: "If there is a failure of the
fan or the air circulation is clogged or obstructed, an internal safety
klaxon cuts the element off to prevent overheating." I assume that by
"safety klaxon" the manual is referring to a thermostatic switch which
disables the heating cycle as a safety measure.

Can anyone give me some additional information regarding this "safety
klaxon"/thermostatic switch. My questions are: Where is it located? Any
photos? Have you replaced it? Where did you source the part, etc., etc.

Thanks,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








Re: Amel Bow Thruster Tool: a mystery leak?

Jose Venegas
 

Well, we do have a mystery here or what?
I would have agreed with Garry that the two seals on the bottom should do the trick, particularly if they are pressed against the flat fiberglass surface of the boat. However my experience tells me otherwise and I have had water coming in two out of the three years I have owned my SM2000 in spite of 3 full seal changes.
The first leak happened on the inaugural trip from Fort Pierce to Savanna. The previous owner had just changed all the 3 seals weeks before the sale. During the overnight passage we had no particularly large waves under a nice 15 knots reach. However, after I arrived to Savanna, I found the forward bilge had salt water almost up to the floor! Not the kind of thing a new boat owner wants to see after his first cruise. In the slip, I make sure the water was not coming from anywhere else, and that the boat was not sinking. Then, I changed the 3 foam and the lip seals and reduced by a half turn the length of the shaft to increase the compression to the bottom seals when the pin is in. Results: no more water for two seasons.

Last spring I first noted a small leak that increased progressively and, by the middle of the season, I was getting two good gallons of water in a trip from Boston to Province Town. After I saw with my own eyes that the water coming through between the lip seal and the shaft, I made an extra seal that I could wrap around the shaft, which kept the leak at bait for the rest of the season. I will be posting pictures of the seal because I think something like this should be on every Amel spare part box.
Any way today, with the boat on the ground, I took the thruster out and found that the (lip) seal around the shaft was, as expected, stretched. However, both the bottom and the top foam seals were absolutely intact. So Garry, this trashes the theory that the bottom foam seals, compressed with enough pressure, can prevent the water from coming in. Remember that I removed a turn increasing considerably the compression on the foam seals with the pin in.
Question for the forum: how can water get around the two bottom foam seals under good compression? The sealing surface from below looks nice and flat. For me this is a mystery.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hmmmm. Kent, there must be something fundamentally wrong here. I think we have both sailed many of the same waters and it just doesn't seem right that I have had no trouble in this area and you seem to have been plagued by the issue. I know I have sailed and or motored with some very significant pounding and still have had no water ingress. Is it possible that the seals have never been properly installed? Did you mention that there were three seals on the outside?

In the retracted state, the top of the bow thruster "anti-torque cap" (see picture #2 in the folder entitled bow thruster service) should compress the two rather dense neoprene seals against the roof of the bow thruster trunk creating a compressive seal against the shaft. In the extended position, the lip seal recessed into the trunk top and the foam seal attached above the lip seal should prevent water ingress. The shaft should be relatively smooth and not have grooves or ridges in it that would inhibit a good circumferential seal.

As a trouble shooting step you might place a large dollop of modeling clay on the top of the anti-torque cap next to the shaft, install the bow thruster, then retract the bow thrust, then remove the bow thruster and measure the height of the modeling clay to see if that distance is roughly the depth of the two external seals. Perhaps due to how your trunk was built or differences in the manufacture of the bow thruster itself, you aren't getting compression of the seals upon retraction.

The water in the oil is a leaking lip seal on the bow thruster prop shaft and is another mater all together. The sleeve previously describe, and depicted in some un-labeled pictures in the Photos section was indeed for the bow thruster prop shaft.

Just some thoughts,

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, karkauai@ wrote:

Hmmm. Have changed the seals (or had them changed) every year and its always leaked water into the boat. This is the first time I've had water in the oil. I'll try Erics silicone trick this time.
Didn't someone install a thin sleeve on the shaft, or was that on the main drive?
Thanks, your report is encouraging.
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY
Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone powered by Alltel


Re: [Amel] Climma Heating

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi according to the heater manual the electric heater fan ALWAYS needs to be on high. To keep it from turning off.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 20, 2011, at 1:56, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:

Eric,

There is a small "safety thermal switch" on the electric heating coil assembly. This switch opens as the temperature of the switch rises. And, it does not take much of an increase...for instance at Medium fan speed that switch will open and cut off current to the heating coils because the switch temperature rises above range. I do not know the temp specs and range of this "safety thermal switch", but it is low enough to require HIGH fan speed. See the "safety thermal switch" here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

With the fan assembly dismounted from the Condenser Coil Assembly, I energized the heating...The fan started turning, I saw the "safety thermal switch" close and within seconds the switch opened because of zero air flow...very sensitive. Also, if you notice my photo, the switch is conducive to corrosion.

This safety thermal switch is only in the Heating circuit and is not connected to the A/C circuit.

To answer your question I believe that the one or more of the 3 420-470 volt 2uF polypropylene capacitors has deteriorated and out of spec. These capacitors control the fan speed. If you replace them I think you will find what I experienced: High speed will be much higher than it was before you replace them. I believe that I simply did not notice that the fan had slowed because the capacitors deteriorated slowly over time.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Bill,

I am just wondering why the A/C works fine on high speed but the heater cuts
out.

Any thoughts?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 11:49 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating





Danny,

The manual states "klaxton." But, I am sure that the manual was originally
written in some other language and translated to English. The "klaxton" is
definitely a thermo-switch that opens at a certain temperature. I uploaded a
photo of it at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589
422353/view?picmode=original
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/58
9422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
<simms@> wrote:

Hi Don't know where it may be located but a klaxon is a loud noise
producing horn eg a motor car in English it has a horn, in some european
languages it is called a klaxon.
regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui New ZealandÂ

From: Richard03801 <richard03801@>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> "
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Thursday, 17 November 2011 1:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating


Â
Hi Bill by the sound of it test the condensers but be sure you discharge
each one as you test it. You will need a multi meter with that feature. You
can buy replacements from most electronic stores.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 16, 2011, at 4:38, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@>
wrote:

I am experiencing a problem with the aft cabin Climma Heater.

It will turn ON and after about 20 seconds the heating element will turn
ON and the unit will pull about 5-6 amps. It will run for 1 to 2 minutes,
then the heating element will turn off and the amp usage drops to around 1
amp.

I read in the Climma Manual the following: "If there is a failure of the
fan or the air circulation is clogged or obstructed, an internal safety
klaxon cuts the element off to prevent overheating." I assume that by
"safety klaxon" the manual is referring to a thermostatic switch which
disables the heating cycle as a safety measure.

Can anyone give me some additional information regarding this "safety
klaxon"/thermostatic switch. My questions are: Where is it located? Any
photos? Have you replaced it? Where did you source the part, etc., etc.

Thanks,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Sailing to Florida

rossirossix4
 

We arrived in Beaufort, NC yesterday afternoon after a 32 hour sail from Hampton, VA on the "inside" of the gulf stream around Cape Hatteras. We stayed within a few miles of the shore, avoiding most of the current of the gulf stream. We averaged 7+ knots for the 230 nm trip and it was pleasant (a bit cold this time of year)ran the diesel a total of 2 hours. BUT we paid close attention to the weather forecast and had favorable winds. There are fish pots out from Virginia Beach so be careful there at night, otherwise we did not see any. Again, rounding Cape Hatteras and Cape Lookout deserves respect and careful consideration of the weather but is worth a look.

Hampton, VA municipal marina is a great stop...$1.20/ft with SSCA, $1.25 BOATUS AND if you buy 2 nights 3rd is free...comes to $0.80/foot if you stay 3 days!
Bob
Brittany de la Mer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "veitm@..." <veitm@...> wrote:

Hello all:
We have our boat in Annapolis and are planning to sail her South to Florida - Ft Lauderdale.
Wondering wether to go East or West of the Gulfstream.
Anybody any good tips?
Cheers,
Veit - ATMAN SM 215


Re: [Amel] Hydraulic shaft brake

Dimitris Krasopoulos <dkra@...>
 

Check the hydraulic fluid in the gear perhaps the pressure is not enough perhaps there is a leakage in the hydraulic hoses

Dimitris
Alma libre too

Από το iPhone μου

19 Νοε 2011, 0:36, ο/η kimberlite@optonline.net έγραψε:

I am having trouble with the hydraulic shaft brake on my 100 hp yanmar.
The brake shoes do not close completely and the shaft continues to spin. .
To temporarily repair this I placed a block of wood between the hydraulic actuator and the engine mount frame and that applied enough pressure to close the brake shoes. The brake shoes do not appear worn. I also do not know which way to turn the bolt on the actuator to tighten the brake shoe clearance.
Any suggestions?
Fair winds
Eric SM 376 Kimberlite




Re: [Amel] Amel Bow Thruster Tool

Eric Freedman
 

I have done it a number of times. Amel told me to do it when I bought the
tool in France when I received Kimberlite

Fair Winds

Eric





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Kent Robertson
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 5:52 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Amel Bow Thruster Tool





Won't it prevent the shaft from coming thru the lip seal?

From: kimberlite kimberlite@optonline.net
<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net>


HI,
You put the tape at the joint where the tool joins the bow thruster.
Electrical tape is fine as it only has to work for a few minutes.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


Re: [Amel] Climma Heating

Eric Freedman
 

Bill,

I replaced the heating coil and attached thermal switch some time ago. I
will try replacing the capacitors.

This made no change.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 1:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating





Eric,

There is a small "safety thermal switch" on the electric heating coil
assembly. This switch opens as the temperature of the switch rises. And, it
does not take much of an increase...for instance at Medium fan speed that
switch will open and cut off current to the heating coils because the switch
temperature rises above range. I do not know the temp specs and range of
this "safety thermal switch", but it is low enough to require HIGH fan
speed. See the "safety thermal switch" here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589
422353/view?picmode=original
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/58
9422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

With the fan assembly dismounted from the Condenser Coil Assembly, I
energized the heating...The fan started turning, I saw the "safety thermal
switch" close and within seconds the switch opened because of zero air
flow...very sensitive. Also, if you notice my photo, the switch is conducive
to corrosion.

This safety thermal switch is only in the Heating circuit and is not
connected to the A/C circuit.

To answer your question I believe that the one or more of the 3 420-470 volt
2uF polypropylene capacitors has deteriorated and out of spec. These
capacitors control the fan speed. If you replace them I think you will find
what I experienced: High speed will be much higher than it was before you
replace them. I believe that I simply did not notice that the fan had slowed
because the capacitors deteriorated slowly over time.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , kimberlite <kimberlite@...>
wrote:

Bill,

I am just wondering why the A/C works fine on high speed but the heater
cuts
out.

Any thoughts?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill
aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 11:49 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating





Danny,

The manual states "klaxton." But, I am sure that the manual was originally
written in some other language and translated to English. The "klaxton" is
definitely a thermo-switch that opens at a certain temperature. I uploaded
a
photo of it at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/589
422353/view?picmode=original
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/324976668/pic/58
9422353/view?picmode=original&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>
&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
<simms@> wrote:

Hi Don't know where it may be located but a klaxon is a loud noise
producing horn eg a motor car in English it has a horn, in some european
languages it is called a klaxon.
regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui New ZealandÂ

From: Richard03801 <richard03801@>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> "
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Thursday, 17 November 2011 1:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Climma Heating


Â
Hi Bill by the sound of it test the condensers but be sure you discharge
each one as you test it. You will need a multi meter with that feature.
You
can buy replacements from most electronic stores.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 16, 2011, at 4:38, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@>
wrote:

I am experiencing a problem with the aft cabin Climma Heater.

It will turn ON and after about 20 seconds the heating element will
turn
ON and the unit will pull about 5-6 amps. It will run for 1 to 2 minutes,
then the heating element will turn off and the amp usage drops to around 1
amp.

I read in the Climma Manual the following: "If there is a failure of
the
fan or the air circulation is clogged or obstructed, an internal safety
klaxon cuts the element off to prevent overheating." I assume that by
"safety klaxon" the manual is referring to a thermostatic switch which
disables the heating cycle as a safety measure.

Can anyone give me some additional information regarding this "safety
klaxon"/thermostatic switch. My questions are: Where is it located? Any
photos? Have you replaced it? Where did you source the part, etc., etc.

Thanks,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N Cyprus

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Amel Bow Thruster Tool

karkauai
 

Thanks, Bill and Eric.  I'll give it a try.
 

From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 2:02 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Amel Bow Thruster Tool


 
Kent,

Put 1 wrap of electrical tape around the joint between the tool and the thruster tube. Although I have not done it "in the water," I am told that the tape will pass through the lip seal.

Bill
BeBe
One more ? abt the 'tool'. Eric says to put tape on it to keep water from getting in when you drop the lower unit out. I'm not clear where to put tape that will seal it w/o getting in the way as it goes thru the lip seal.

Thanks again for your thoughts and help.
Kent



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Amel Bow Thruster Tool

karkauai
 

Won't it prevent the shaft from coming thru the lip seal?


From: kimberlite kimberlite@optonline.net

 
HI,
You put the tape at the joint where the tool joins the bow thruster.
Electrical tape is fine as it only has to work for a few minutes.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]