Richard,<br><br>Yes, please find the model number
of your Motorola Marine alternator, if you can.
Prestolite bought Motorola Marine, but cannot match up my
Valeo part numbers.<br><br>I checked my notes from a
conversation with Valeo. The correct 25 amp alternator works
at 380 RPM, not 680. Most alternators will not
produce electricity with less than 1100 RPM, I
believe.<br><br>My problem is that Amel wants about $750 plus
shipping for this alternator!<br><br>I would appreciate
your help. Thanks, David<br><br>I would appreciate
your help. Thanks. David

I had my SM wired for both at the factory. I
assume you will want to be able to connect to 120v shore
power. The simplest way is the way Amel did it. Get a
120 to 220 transformer. Run a new 120v cable for
shore connection. Connect the transformer's output to
your 220v system. If you intend to use the boat in the
Caribbean or Europe you will want to retain the 220v
system. I'm assuming your charger is also 220v input. You
should have a simple plug in arrangement to change when
you switch from one to the other. If you like, I'll
be aboard over the Xmas holiday and can get at my
records and send you a wiring diagram. Incidentally,
because you have a transformer you'll be protected from
shore current driven electrolisis. Arnold/Pagan

David,<br>It's also a Motorola Marine alternator,
made in France. I don't know if it's the original, but
it's been on the since we've owned it. I should have
asked when I had it rebuilt what the rpm req'ts were!
If you want, I can try to find the model # of the
unit, if that helps.<br>Richard

David,<br><br>Check out the Heart Inverter 2500.
I believe it handles both 110 volt and 220 volt. If
the boat was wired for only 220 volt, you will need
to run a separate wire for the 110. The 220 cannot
handle the 110 draw.<br><br>Gene Carter, s/v Stargazer
~~~_/)~~~

Richard,<br>You are lucky, because you seem to
have the right alternator! Was this alternator on your
boat when you bought it? Or, did you replace a Valeo
with a Motorola? Do you know the RPM minimum
requirements or any special features?<br><br> Alternators are
not rocket science, so I know they can be repaired.
My problem is that I have a replacement 75 amp
alternator which works I test it with the engine running,
but under sail, I do not get any output. I believe I
need a 25 amp alternator.<br><br>I have learned about
the need for output at low RPMs (about 680), which
makes sense. Now, I am trying to find a US source of an
alternator with the correct specifications.<br><br>Any other
thoughts would be appreciated.<br><br>Merci. David s/v
Have Fun!

Koen, <br><br>I actually have a Motorola Marine
alternator, but it does not work. It was a spare part on my
boat when I purchased it. This Motorola alternator may
be the wrong alternator. It needs 1200+ RPM to
generate electricity. The correct Valeo alternator works
at about 680 RPM.<br><br>I will contact Motorola to
determine whether I can get the correct alternator. Do you
have any other suggestions, please? <br><br>Thank you
for your help and ideas?<br><br>David

David,<br>Our Sharki has a 20amp Motorola alternator. Last year had it completely rebuilt at a local shop (Melbourne, FL) for $95.<br>Richard<br>S/V Xanareva

Hello David,<br><br>Motorola also supplies this alternator.<br>But U can also use a standard automotive alternator and have it isolated by a automotive electric workshop.<br><br>success,<br><br>Koen

I need to replace the propellor shaft alternator
on my Maramu. It is made by Valeo, and is very
expensive if purchased from Amel. Does anyone know a
supplier of this alternator other than Amel? Also, what is
the European equivalent of West Marine for parts?
RSVP - Merci.<br><br>David Lambertsen<br>s/v Have
Fun!<br>1989 Amel Maramu 258

Bonjour, mes amis les Amels...I sail 1989 Maramu
258, which I moor on the Eastern Shore of the
Chesapeake Bay, on the East Coast of the US. I am sailing
the Chesapeake now as I rebuild this boat, which I
bought 1.5 years ago in Puerto Rico. It was then named
"Tansanit"; now I call it Have Fun! My two teenage sons are
my crew. I plan to voyage in a few more years, but I
need to work. <br><br>I am very interested in learning
what others have done in the US to convert the
shorepower electrical system from 220 volt to 110 volt. Can
anyone advise me of how to keep the 220 volt systems on
my electrical panel, while adding a 110 volt
inverter/charger? What have you done?<br><br>I wish everyone fair
winds and safe seas.<br><br>David Lambertsen, s/v Have
Fun! Maramu 258

I regret I have to part with "Hanalei". If you
are interested or know someone who is, you can see
her at<br><a href=http://www.starboardtack.com/amel46.htm target=new>http://www.starboardtack.com/amel46.htm</a>
or<br><a href=http://www.onlineboatsales.com/cgi-bin/search.pl?action=sad&adid=12426. target=new>http://www.onlineboatsales.com/cgi-bin/search.pl?action=sad&adid=12426.</a>

Has anyone come up with a way to properly
lockdown the floor boards on a SM2000. I know that Amel
now makes a kit for this. Unfortunatly they claim
that I cannot use this on my boat because my boat came
with wooden floors.<br><br>Thank You<br><br>Vito
Ciaravino

Hanspeter:<br>The solenoid is the device above the manual shut off for the engine that stops the engine when you turn the switch on the control panel counter clockwise. Arnold

hello pagandaisy, Vito, Roy & Toni,
closereach<br><br>To run an engine at full speed is only nescesary for
a turbo charged engine. But I think, Vito and Roy
has given the correct answer. I heard something
similar, but I could not understand it. Thanks for the
answer.<br><br>@ pagandaisy: What exactly is the solenoid? Sorry,
my english ...<br><br>@ Vito: We have the SM #158,
build in the year 1996. Our SM is located in Marina
Bay, Gibraltar and we are living at the Costa del Sol.
If someone wants to know something about this area,
we will gladly answer. <br><br>@ Roy & Toni, we
heard the first time of you from Mr. Jacques Gauthier.
If you see him in Hyres, then say kind regards to
him from us.<br><br>Happy sailing to all of
you<br>Hanspeter & Nathalie

After reading the threads about running the
diesel in the SM at full rpm regularly, is this true for
our Perkins 4-108 in the Sharki? And what max rpm
have other Sharki owners run their Perkins
continuously? And economically?<br>Rich<br>Xanavera

Hi,<br>Greetings to all Amel owners and
friends<br><br>We're Roy & Toni, owners of SM 195 "Excalibur",
currently in Port Grimaud, France after 5 seasons in the
Med. Also owned Maramu of same name, sailed out of
Stamford CT for 13 yrs.<br>We would be happy to answer any
questions about the Med -- it's been a wonderful sailing
area for us. We're planning to cross next year, after
sailing the Azores during the summer.<br>Re: Running
engine at full RPM. this has been recommended by
everyone at Amel and the engine mechanic in Hyeres who
services them, as well as many owners. It scares the
dickens out of you, but apparently it cleans out the
injectors and burns the carbon out of the cylinders. We
haven't done it until recently, and our exhaust was quite
black on the hull. This should help, we were told.

Hello Hanspeter<br><br>When I took delivery of my
SMn 283 the dealer mentioned to me that the engine
likes to be run a t full rpm every 10 to 15 hours. He
did not explain why. I think it is because the turbo
charger only works for the last 15% of the power range so
it is a good thing to run the turbo occassionally.
What year is your boat and where are you
based.<br><br>Vito Ciaravino<br>SMn 283

Re Hanspeter: I never heard about running an
engine at full power every 15-20 hours. Are you saying
to run at approximately 3000 rpms? <br><br>We've had
a similar problem with the solenoid but not just
when it runs at idle. Even under load the soleoid was
intermittent, sometimes it worked, sometimes we had to cut it
off manually, no fun at night. I thought for a while
the switch was the problem and so ran a 12volt line
to the solenoid. It did activate, but did not stop
the engine every time. My belief is that the solenoid
is a bad design or the engine heat partially breaks
down the coil. I suspect it is much to sensitive for
the job it has to do. I just replaced mine. I'll post
my experience in a month or so.<br><br>1/2Lt. per
10hrs seems excellent to me.

Hello all together<br><br>Our engine has 1300 run
hours without any problems. But nevertheless I have a
few questions: <br>1) Is that what must be done: let
the engine run every 15-20 hours for 10 to 20 minutes
with full power?<br>2) We have problems to switch off
the engine with the key. This problem apears only if
the engine runs bevore switching off a longer time in
the idle mode. Then we must switch off the engine
over the "red lever" at the engine. If the engine runs
under normal load and after we can switch off the
engine, with the key, without any problems.<br>3) we need
around 1/2 Lt. Oil per 10 hour run time. Is this the
normal consumption?<br><br>Thanks for all responses and
I hope, my English can be
understood...<br><br>Hanspeter

Hello all together<br><br>this Message board is a
good idea ...<br><br>We had big problems with our
original CQR anchor from Amel. Therefore we decided this
summer to change it. After some attempts (with a 25kg
"Bgelanker") we installed a 30kg Spade anchor. The mounting
from Amel must be modified only a little, because this
anchor does not balance itself. See the two photos in
the photo album Spade anchor. <br><br>Sorry for my
english. <br><br>Regards Hanspeter