Has anyone ever retro fitted a shaft generator to an SM with a Volvo?Any views on ease and price much appreciated. Ian and Judy, Pen Azen. SM 302

_________________________________________________________________
It's fast, it's easy and it's free. Get MSN Messenger today! http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger

I just got the anode changed in the water heater on my S.M. Now the Volvo doesn't heat the water, and it seems to have too much coolant in spite of the spillage during reinstallation of the water heater. Obviously, I have a large amount of air in the circuit.
What is the easiest and most appropriate way to remove this air?
Thanks. Bill on S/V Lady Sadie
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I have a complete set of sunbrella covers for a Mango I would like to
sell . They were sown years ago, are in new condition and have never been used.
They are located in Port Towsend Wa. They are for sale for $1000 plus
shipping. My family of 4 and I have just purchased Mango hull # 15 , the name is
S.V. Eshamy.

Dear Gary,
I met Jim woods at c&f and visited his marina. I did not realize that
Liahona was your boat. Kimberlite is in St Thomas now and we will be
down in mid FEB. and mid March. When in march will you be down?

The screws are visible when the boat is hauled and the rudder is turned.
You will see a screw that holds the rudder bearing in place. It is a
simple twist with a screwdriver.
Fair winds,
Eric

Jan 26, 2004

Hi Eric:

I am back in Utah but our boat (Liahona) is at the Woods Marina in
Sea Cow Bay, Tortola (about 2 miles south of Road Town along the
south eastern coast of Tortola). We will be back down there in
March. It is the next bay north of Nanny Cay. We had been on the
hard at Nanny Cay for the hurricane season but they didn't have any
slips available for us upon launching. Jim Woods is an exceptional
marina manager and very accomadating and it was signifcantly cheaper
than Nanny Cay to boot.

I have the fresh air ventilation system but I do not have the diesel
heater.

What do you need to check on the rudder screws that you mentioned?

Regards, Gary

Gary,
are you still in tortola? do you have the diesel heater option?
eric
kimberlite


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@y...>
wrote:

Jan 24, 2004
Hi Stephan:

Sorry to be so slow to answer: I am a new (and first time boat

owner

although I am a FAA certified aircraft mechanic and am used to
turning a wrench or two). We have had our Amel SM Hull #335 since
July 2003. Our first haul out was at the 1 & 1/2 year mark,

having

been in Caribbean waters for about 9 months. The bottom was in

good

shape but because I wasn't sure how long to expect it to stay that
way we did the bottom paint. Amel recommends a hard bottom paint
(thus I believe this is a non-ablative type paint that you must

scrub

periodically). In checking with multiple sources the concensis

was

that if you sail alot then an ablative paint works well because

the

motion stirs things up and provides exposure of new paint. If you
don't sail a great deal (me, only about 4 months a year) then the
hard paint is better but must be periodically scrubbed. I chose
Petit Trinidad SR (a hard Slime Retardant paint) based on

discussions

with various yards in the Caribbean. It took 5 gallons to put 2
coats on everything and a third coat at the water line down about

18

inches (This is reportedly what the Moorings boats do). The paint
was about $155 USD in Grenada where I had it done. All they did

was

scuff sand the existing paint to provide tooth adhesion and put

the

new paint on with a roller. It has held up well for 14 months now
and I did one scrubbing using 3M pads and two scuba tanks of air
(about a 5 hour job). At our haul out for the hurricane season

the

bottom looked great. It is evidently imparative not to put a hard
paint over an ablative paint. I am told that it will flake off.

I have replaced the zincs twice. We are only in marinas hooked to
shore power for brief periods and when the zincs are about 50%

gone I

replaced them. Joel tells me that they may go in a few months or
last a year or more based on where the boat is and various marina
power scenarios etc. I guess I am about average at 15 months per
set.

I just changed the seals and the bronze prop shaft bushing with

about

400 hrs on the engine. There was no evidence of oil leakage at the
prop shaft. The oil was clean and there was very little wear on

the

bushing. I suspect they would have easily gone to 1000 hours.

The procedure for changing the seals and busing isn't documented
anywhere so I thought I might tell you about my experience. I
purchased new "O" rings based on the drawing from Amel but my boat
has the rope cutter insalled and the "O" rings on the drain plug

are

a different size than depicted on the plain drain plug drawing.

The

chandlery in Nanny Cay had the correct size "O" ring. I don't

know

what size "O" ring I ended up with but it would be worth checking
with Amel for the correct size for you application. The "0" rings

on

the bushing were supplied on mine spare from Amel. Exactly 8.5
liters of very clean oil drained from the drive and I used a

syringe

to get all that I could out of the bottom of the drive as

described

by Amel. I used some penetrant oil the night before on all the

set

screws that hold the rope cutter in place and they all cam out
easily. The various spacers and cutter came off the shaft and the
bushing slid out very nicely. This left the three seals in

place.

There may be various ways to remove the seals but what we did is
drilled two small holes on each side of the seal, screwed a sheet
metal screw into the two holes and used a slide hammer connected

to

the screws to pull the seal out. Then we drilled two more holes

in

the next seal and repeated this process two more times. The seals
came out easily using this method. Prying etc would have been a
bigger chore. Some people collapse the seals with a punch but I

was

afraid this might damage the prop shaft. The new seals slid in

and

were tapped into place using an appropriately size piece of pipe
about 14 inches long. I will measure this next time I am on the

boat

and post the dimensions because the size must be quite exact to

fit

the seal and it must be long enough to extend beyond the end of

the

prop shaft. Anyone doing this job themselves might want to put
together a tool kit that included this pipe (seal driver). Once

the

seals are in place the bushing was inserted and pushed in so that

its

most aft portion is flush with the drive housing. Then all the

other

stuff (cutter and spacers, prop etc) were re-assembled and the

drive

was filled with 8.5 liters of 15/40 Diesel Engine Oil. I used
Lanicote on the prop shaft becuase I understand it will prevent
dissimilar metal corrosion.

When I removed the prop originally (which we did for the Autoprop
recall) we had a very difficult time. We had the Amel prop puller
and actually stretched the bolts to breaking once. All the

tapping

and pulling we exerted didn't seem to help. Many folks gathered
around in the yard to offer a host of suggestions but finally what
work almost instantaneously was tapping around the circumference

of

the prop hub on the forward aspect of the hub. There wasn't a

spec

of corrosion or anything else holding the prop in place, just a

good

tight tapered shaft and Woodruff key.

I just had the fresh water pump fail. Fortunately I had a spare

and

promptly installed it. Upon disassembly of the original pump I

found

the pump housing, bronze impeller and motor shaft all pristine. A
plain steel Woodruff key was used by the manufacturer and it was
completely corroded away so that the impeller just spun on the

motor

shaft. I have tried un-successfully to find stainless steel or
bronze Woodruff Keys. I am going to manufature my own from

stainless

steel. Seems odd though that they would put a mild steel key in a
pump like this.

I have changed the finger zinc in the Onan genset once and it was
about 50% gone. I was able to obtain several more from my local

Onan

dealer here in the US.

I have ordered the water heater zincs from West Marine who had to
order them from Plastimo. It has been six weeks and I am still
waiting. West Marine/Plastimo wanted about $50.00 each for them.

I

didn't price them from Amel because the one I originally bought

from

Amel was the incorrect size. I only discovered that after the

messy

job of opening the water heater.

One other job that is important as far as preventive maintenance

is

winch overhauls. I ordered the book from Lewmar and an overhaul
kit. Mostly you need the Lewmar grease, some plastic buckets to

use

to soak and scrub the various parts in some mineral spirits, a

soft

bristled brush to help wash with and a few small brushes to apply

the

grease with. All of our winches were in great shape after 1.5

years,

including a trans-atlantic. Lewmar says they should be overhauled

3

times per season. If you did that with 11 winches you would spend
your entire season overhauling winches. It took me about 1 to 2
hours per winch to overhaul them based on the size of the winch.

It

is fairly straight forward (just remember for sure how you took

them

apart). The only winches that showed any signs of distress were
those on the main mast since they have so much greater sea water
exposure. I will plan to do them twice per year from now on. The
others will do nicely being done once a year based on my use.

I haven't yet tackled the bow thruster work. If there is anybody

out

there that could give details of the process it would be greatly
appreciated.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Sea Cow Bay, Tortola



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Stephan Regulinski"
<stephreg@y...> wrote:

We are planning a haul out in the next several months. Can

anyone

advise on basic bottom paint stuff?

1. How much bottom paint should we plan on buying?

2. How many coats are applied?

3. Is a prep coat of something required before bottom paint?

4. What surface prep is required?

Since we will not be in an Amel yard, I want to know how it is

best

done, not what the local guy thinks!

I also understand that I should service the bow thruster, change

the

seals and oil in the sail drive and check/replace the zincs. Am

I

missing anything important?

Thanks for your help,

Stephan G. Regulinski
S/V Delos (SMM #303)

Hi,
i am thinking of adding a diesel heater to my existing forced air
system.
Is there anyone either near new york or in the virgin islands that
has this option that i may take a look at?
fair winds,
eric
sm 376 Kimberlite

Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

Hi Gary,
I have printed your advice for when we haul out in two months time. One
word of warning about the anode in the Onan heat exchanger.
I forgot to replace the anode and when I checked it after 30 months I found
that it had disintegrated and worse still, the outboard end plate had
become dezincified and cracked from one side to the other. Fortunately the
rubber seal had stopped a potentially dangerous leak. The easiest way to
check it out or service the heat exchanger is to remove it completely.

Best wishes from Malta, John Hollamby Bali Hai,
SM 319

After four seasons in the Caribbean, we returned to
the Chesapeake Bay last June. While down there, the
bottom was painted each season with Island 44, which I
believe is a tin-based paint.
My question is: Can a copper-based bottom paint be
applied over the Island 44 or does the tin-based paint
first have to be completely removed? Someone told me
that the two dissimilar metals would produce an
electrolytic action, and that the tin would have to be
completely removed.
Any thoughts, greatly appreciated.
Many thanks,
Randy Kilmon
S/Y "Drifter" (SM 240)

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/

The editor dropped the decimal point . my thruster takes 3/10 of a liter
of oil.
Eric

Gary,
Where are you located?

We rebuilt the bow thruster as we were getting water and oil coming into
the bilge due to the thruster leaking at the rear seal.
The rebuild is very straight forward if the boat is out of the water. If
you boat is in the water you can remove it by using the bow thruster
removal tools.
The removal of the thruster is covered in the manual.
Once you have the thruster out turn it upside down to drain the oil.
Having done this remove the prop. Behind this you will find a lip seal
similar to the one on the prop shaft except smaller. Just pry it out
grease a new one and install it. It can be pushed in very easily. It
appeared Amel uses some blue silicone to hold it in on the outside
surface.
On the thruster’s vertical shaft, you will find two foam seals that are
just removed by hand. Glue two new ones in place. Where the thruster
goes through the hull there is another lip seal held in by two screws.
Just remove this and install a new one. On top of this seal was another
spongy disk seal, which we also glued down. Then just fill the thruster
with point 3 (3 liters) of 90 weight oil.
I believe thrusters vary from boat to boat as Bel Ami, which was next to
me, took ¾ liter of oil, and has a different mounting arrangement. My
owner’s manual has a good drawing of the cross section of the bow
thruster.

Will you be in the virgins mid February?

Fair winds,
Eric
S/m 376 Kimberlite.

Correction: We have owned Liahona since July 2001.

Sorry, Gary Silver

Hi Eric:
I saw your boat at Marina Cay in Road Town a couple of weeks ago.
Looked bristol. Could you please describe in detail the bow
thruster seal service process? What do you need to check on the
rudder screws? Do you just need to check that they are tight?
Thanks, Gary Silver Liahona Hull # 335 Sea Cow Bay, Tortola

-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@o...> wrote:

Stephan,
We just had our bottom done. It was sanded and we had 2 coats of

pettit

ultima ablative paint applied. We used 5 gallons.
I also replaced the two lip seals for the bow thruster- one on the
thruster shaft and one in the thruster through hull opening and 3

spongy

inserts. You should also replace the wearing out bearing and the 3

seals

on the prop shaft and the sail drive oil. The zincs on the rudder

and

the zinc and bearings on the weed cutter if you have one. Also,

check

the screws in the rudder hinge.
Fair winds,
Eric
SM 376 kimberlite

Jan 24, 2004
Hi Stephan:

Sorry to be so slow to answer: I am a new (and first time boat owner
although I am a FAA certified aircraft mechanic and am used to
turning a wrench or two). We have had our Amel SM Hull #335 since
July 2003. Our first haul out was at the 1 & 1/2 year mark, having
been in Caribbean waters for about 9 months. The bottom was in good
shape but because I wasn't sure how long to expect it to stay that
way we did the bottom paint. Amel recommends a hard bottom paint
(thus I believe this is a non-ablative type paint that you must scrub
periodically). In checking with multiple sources the concensis was
that if you sail alot then an ablative paint works well because the
motion stirs things up and provides exposure of new paint. If you
don't sail a great deal (me, only about 4 months a year) then the
hard paint is better but must be periodically scrubbed. I chose
Petit Trinidad SR (a hard Slime Retardant paint) based on discussions
with various yards in the Caribbean. It took 5 gallons to put 2
coats on everything and a third coat at the water line down about 18
inches (This is reportedly what the Moorings boats do). The paint
was about $155 USD in Grenada where I had it done. All they did was
scuff sand the existing paint to provide tooth adhesion and put the
new paint on with a roller. It has held up well for 14 months now
and I did one scrubbing using 3M pads and two scuba tanks of air
(about a 5 hour job). At our haul out for the hurricane season the
bottom looked great. It is evidently imparative not to put a hard
paint over an ablative paint. I am told that it will flake off.

I have replaced the zincs twice. We are only in marinas hooked to
shore power for brief periods and when the zincs are about 50% gone I
replaced them. Joel tells me that they may go in a few months or
last a year or more based on where the boat is and various marina
power scenarios etc. I guess I am about average at 15 months per
set.

I just changed the seals and the bronze prop shaft bushing with about
400 hrs on the engine. There was no evidence of oil leakage at the
prop shaft. The oil was clean and there was very little wear on the
bushing. I suspect they would have easily gone to 1000 hours.

The procedure for changing the seals and busing isn't documented
anywhere so I thought I might tell you about my experience. I
purchased new "O" rings based on the drawing from Amel but my boat
has the rope cutter insalled and the "O" rings on the drain plug are
a different size than depicted on the plain drain plug drawing. The
chandlery in Nanny Cay had the correct size "O" ring. I don't know
what size "O" ring I ended up with but it would be worth checking
with Amel for the correct size for you application. The "0" rings on
the bushing were supplied on mine spare from Amel. Exactly 8.5
liters of very clean oil drained from the drive and I used a syringe
to get all that I could out of the bottom of the drive as described
by Amel. I used some penetrant oil the night before on all the set
screws that hold the rope cutter in place and they all cam out
easily. The various spacers and cutter came off the shaft and the
bushing slid out very nicely. This left the three seals in place.
There may be various ways to remove the seals but what we did is
drilled two small holes on each side of the seal, screwed a sheet
metal screw into the two holes and used a slide hammer connected to
the screws to pull the seal out. Then we drilled two more holes in
the next seal and repeated this process two more times. The seals
came out easily using this method. Prying etc would have been a
bigger chore. Some people collapse the seals with a punch but I was
afraid this might damage the prop shaft. The new seals slid in and
were tapped into place using an appropriately size piece of pipe
about 14 inches long. I will measure this next time I am on the boat
and post the dimensions because the size must be quite exact to fit
the seal and it must be long enough to extend beyond the end of the
prop shaft. Anyone doing this job themselves might want to put
together a tool kit that included this pipe (seal driver). Once the
seals are in place the bushing was inserted and pushed in so that its
most aft portion is flush with the drive housing. Then all the other
stuff (cutter and spacers, prop etc) were re-assembled and the drive
was filled with 8.5 liters of 15/40 Diesel Engine Oil. I used
Lanicote on the prop shaft becuase I understand it will prevent
dissimilar metal corrosion.

When I removed the prop originally (which we did for the Autoprop
recall) we had a very difficult time. We had the Amel prop puller
and actually stretched the bolts to breaking once. All the tapping
and pulling we exerted didn't seem to help. Many folks gathered
around in the yard to offer a host of suggestions but finally what
work almost instantaneously was tapping around the circumference of
the prop hub on the forward aspect of the hub. There wasn't a spec
of corrosion or anything else holding the prop in place, just a good
tight tapered shaft and Woodruff key.

I just had the fresh water pump fail. Fortunately I had a spare and
promptly installed it. Upon disassembly of the original pump I found
the pump housing, bronze impeller and motor shaft all pristine. A
plain steel Woodruff key was used by the manufacturer and it was
completely corroded away so that the impeller just spun on the motor
shaft. I have tried un-successfully to find stainless steel or
bronze Woodruff Keys. I am going to manufature my own from stainless
steel. Seems odd though that they would put a mild steel key in a
pump like this.

I have changed the finger zinc in the Onan genset once and it was
about 50% gone. I was able to obtain several more from my local Onan
dealer here in the US.

I have ordered the water heater zincs from West Marine who had to
order them from Plastimo. It has been six weeks and I am still
waiting. West Marine/Plastimo wanted about $50.00 each for them. I
didn't price them from Amel because the one I originally bought from
Amel was the incorrect size. I only discovered that after the messy
job of opening the water heater.

One other job that is important as far as preventive maintenance is
winch overhauls. I ordered the book from Lewmar and an overhaul
kit. Mostly you need the Lewmar grease, some plastic buckets to use
to soak and scrub the various parts in some mineral spirits, a soft
bristled brush to help wash with and a few small brushes to apply the
grease with. All of our winches were in great shape after 1.5 years,
including a trans-atlantic. Lewmar says they should be overhauled 3
times per season. If you did that with 11 winches you would spend
your entire season overhauling winches. It took me about 1 to 2
hours per winch to overhaul them based on the size of the winch. It
is fairly straight forward (just remember for sure how you took them
apart). The only winches that showed any signs of distress were
those on the main mast since they have so much greater sea water
exposure. I will plan to do them twice per year from now on. The
others will do nicely being done once a year based on my use.

I haven't yet tackled the bow thruster work. If there is anybody out
there that could give details of the process it would be greatly
appreciated.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Sea Cow Bay, Tortola



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Stephan Regulinski"
<stephreg@y...> wrote:

We are planning a haul out in the next several months. Can anyone
advise on basic bottom paint stuff?

1. How much bottom paint should we plan on buying?

2. How many coats are applied?

3. Is a prep coat of something required before bottom paint?

4. What surface prep is required?

Since we will not be in an Amel yard, I want to know how it is best
done, not what the local guy thinks!

I also understand that I should service the bow thruster, change

the

seals and oil in the sail drive and check/replace the zincs. Am I
missing anything important?

Thanks for your help,

Stephan G. Regulinski
S/V Delos (SMM #303)

Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

Hello Richard, I would take any test results by any magazine with a large
pinch of salt. For a really incomplete test see the pathetic report in the
December issue of "Sailing Today". Bear in mind that journalists are not
liveaboards and almost certainly keep their boats in marinas and never
anchor overnight in all conditions. No anchor is perfect in every situation
but properly deployed Bruces, Spades and Bugels are top class in most
bottoms whereas a Danforth type will be better in others.

Hang on in there ! John Bali Hai, SM 319

Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<

Hi Ian, Wow, I am glad I did not bother to attend. I shall have to save my
pennies for the Dusseldorf Show next year.

Regards, John SM319 Bali Hai

Bengt,

Sorry, I haven't proceeded with fitting the big Bruce up there on
the bow--so nothing to report.
I stopped short of this because of the success of the Spade anchors
in tests conducted in the various press, including Pratical Sailor.
And the recent issue of Yachting Monthly conducted a test of
anchors, with poor reviews for the Bruce and Bruce clones.
If anyone has a suggestion on where to find the best price on a 30kg
galvanized Spade, that'd be great.

Richard Tate
SM "Spice"

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Louise o Bengt Mårtensson
<tintoamel@y...> wrote:

Long ago You wrote about fitting an 110 lb Bruce anchor.
How did it fit? Did it work well for You.
best regards
Bengt Mårtensson

Long ago You wrote about fitting an 110 lb Bruce anchor.
How did it fit? Did it work well for You.
best regards
Bengt Mårtensson
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, closereach <no_reply@y...>
wrote:

2-Dodger windows: When taking significant spray and going into

the

sun you are almost blind. Has anyone used anything on these

windows

to improve visibility such as rainX? Also, the helmsman window
leaked is this normal and is there a way to seal it better.

RT: We found on our trip traveling down the ICW that when motoring
into a 15 kt or higher breeze the wave chop does put a good amount

of

spray on the dodger window and makes it very hard to peer forward.

I

too would like to know of some 'magic' way to improve visibility.
Offshore I can see that this is not a big problem but traveling
inside a channel makes it difficult. My solution was to crack the
window open the smallest amount to peek through while getting the
least amount of spray coming past the opening.

3-Anchors: So far the standard anchor has worked well I also have

a

40lb danford. What other anchors are being carried out there.

RT: We found our 60 lb. CQR worked great everywhere but one place--
Southport, NC. We anchored in the 'old' basin where all the fishing
vessels are located. Very very soft mud. CQR dragged throught like
butter. I deployed my 35 lb. stainless steel Northill anchor with
success. I have purchased a 110 lb. Bruce and will put that on the
bow as the primary anchor.
.

Hi Rob,

Forgot 1 important item...The fake leather ceiling lining from
early SM's (and Maramu's Sharki's etc), falls down...
This material is foam backed and the foam just desintegrates..
The hotter the climat the faster it desintegrates.
The whole boat is covered with this material also inside lockers etc..
I don't know exactly when Amel changed this, but guess it must have
been 93-94.
Most boats I have seen solved this with some wooden linings, this
works tempory as after a while the whole foam desintegrates and vinyl
is hanging loose between the wooden linings.
Amel now uses the same material but backed with felt.
The only good solution is to remove the old vinyl all over the
boat, and re-glue with the new stuff.
The result is as new, but it took us nearly 3 weeks with 3 people.

Hope this is of any help for You

Koen





--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd" <g4ljf@c...>
wrote:

To the Amel Network: Greetings!

I have been an observer member of your group for many yearning

years. And am about to graduate as an owner member. I'm excited and a
little daunted. The boat, Signore dei Mari is lying Antalya, and very
soon to become Australian owned. She has been Swiss owned (and very
loved since launch in 1989/90.

So hello SuperMaramu and Mediterrranean sailors. Can you help me

please with:

1. location of best slipway services and prices in the eastern Med

2. location of best marina prices

3. best underwriting of SuperMaramus at value for money prices

4. names and manufacturers of best antifouling paints available in

Europe/Turkey

5. do you treat diesel for fungi and bacteria in Europe

6. And I would welcome any and all advice and recommedations

relevant to my finalising my purchase. In anticipation - thank you
and best regards.

My direct contact is brennan@w...

Best regards from downunder,

Rob Brennan

Hi John,

I was not impressed with the London Boat Show at the new ExCel site. I never thought that much of Earls Court either, but at least it was on two levels and you could get a good idea of the layout and where you needed to go.

The trip out to Docklands was a bit of a mystery. The trick is to stay on the Bakerloo line all the way to Canning Town, then change to the DLR. We queued for almost 30 minutes to buy tickets. Only half the ticket kiosks were in operation. Get yours prior to arriving and you will get straight in. I found finding your way around very difficult. I wasted most of the day trying to fathom out where those people I wanted to see were located. Even with detailed instructions from the information desk, it was a maze. There are no overhead signs and many of the exhibitors had removed their stand numbers as it did not fit in with their logo!

All of the restaurants were booked out for lunch. The alternative sandwich bars etc were of dreadful quality. The outside boat display was very disappointing with very few yachts on display. I fact I got the impression that the show was very much a power boat show rather than a sail boat show, but so perhaps was Earls Court. The indoor wind surfing display was not working due to 'technical difficulties'.

I will never go back. The Southampton show is the one I really like, though if you want a really first class show that has everything and is well laid out and easy to navigate, I would recommend Düsseldorf.

No, Amel were not there, but they do attend Southampton.

Best Wishes

Ian

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]