I think that would work, Craig, but the 220AC ground is also connected to the case. It would have to be disconnected and reconnected to the boats 220 ground. Since my charger/inverter failed, I've

Hello, We have changed the vinyl through out our older Maramu. it is a messy process but doable. There are other posts here on how to do it. However, there are two issues. in some areas, especially

Hi Kent - unless I'm missing something in all this grounding/bonding discourse, it seems the simple answer is don't connect your charger/inverter case to the green/yellow bonding system, only to the

Thanks for the tip. We’ll check it out. Sent from Windows Mail From: amelyachtowners@... Sent: ‎Tuesday‎, ‎14‎ ‎April‎ ‎2015 ‎7‎:‎46‎ ‎a.m. To: amelyachtowners@...

I do not own a Sharki, but you should definitely check all wire runs inside the mast. Could be a bad seal. Jason Dernehl SM #88. "Taxes in Delaware are nice"

Hi Mark, I was replying to you and the internet went belly up..I see Bill has chimed in to say The only things connected to the bonding system should be metal parts in contact with salt

Good evening, Craig is right and the sensors are no more produced (but may be still available at some retailer's). First of all, this system works nice when both sensors are perfectly aligned. They

Be aware when ordering your new Sonic transducers that they are easily confused with the shorter ninety degree model shown on the B and G catalogue. Amel have fitted two straight transducers

It is quite true that the Sonic Speed itself is not made or sold anymore but B&G is still selling pairs of sensors replacement. I checked with US, French and UK retailers and found that they are

Ian Shepherd SM2K Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus Thank you Bill and Joel for your input. It would now seem that the cause of the engine room hatch cover bulges is actually caused by corrosion

On my Sterling charger/inverter there is an internal connection between the DC neg and the case. If you connect the grounding post on the case to the bonding system, you have your connection. I

Mark, I see that you are getting a lot of good help. I will try to answer your question anyway. I am not so sure that the Furuno Heading sensor was original. It was not something Amel installed on

Hi Mark, I have purchased a silver/silver chloride probe (look on boat zincs dot com) which is used with your multimeter to check "hull potential". It was about $125 U.S. plus shipping, and is the

Hi Mark: I visited your boat web site, very cool. Reading the "Frustration" post made me laugh out loud. Sooooo… familiar. As to the bonding system and seeing voltage on the green wires, I will

Hi Alan, Thanks for the response. I have a couple of issues going on here. Connected to this terminal are the yellow/green wires. Because there is 24v between these and the pos(+). I understand

Hi. We have a water problem on our '80 Sharki. When it rains there is water pouring onto the aft bulk head. We presume it is water running down the mizzen mast and somehow getting onto the

Sorry Mark / Bill I've just seen Bill's posts...good advice... Cheers Alan

Hi Mark, Somewhere you have a device that has an internal connection between 24V -ve and ground. Suspects are inverters, DC-DC converters, alternators, radios.... I would suggest disconnecting the

Bill, Thank you as always for taking the time. Am I correct in that the Green/Yellow wires should NOT have any connection to the battery neg(-)? I really wish I understood this better. But no

Mark, And look close at that inverter. There is no reason for it to be connected to the bonding system. Disconnect it completely and see if your problem with the voltage you described goes away. A