Ok James I will check again the bottom of the box from outside and will try to remove some of the isolation on the ceiling of engine room and check there. Will let you know any results. When you are

Fred, Don't cut the tube. That will not solve your problem and will create several new problems. Patience, steady and persistent pulling with the tool, tapping with a mallet, and in 2-3 days it

Hi Kent, Electrolytic and galvanic corrosion has been an intriguing topic of conversation between many folk on this forum, and with some considerable cost to some. I have been an avid follower, but

Hi Andrew We have the version with the 4 screws holding it to the iron flange. I've been fighting with this for a long time and it never moved a millimeter.push,pulled,torqued,heated....screamed at

Agree with Andrew, Make sure you removed all the bolts. I am sure you saw the illustration of the process: http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_overhaul.html Don't cut the tube. Be patient and keep

Hi Fred, Dumb question: do you have all four allen head bolts removed? Most recently a post from Loca Lola II that had the same issue as yours:

Fred If I am understanding you correctly you are trying to withdraw the carbon fibre tube of the bow thruster from the cast iron casing of the bow thruster motor. Assuming you have removed the two

Hi Fred, Don't cut your shaft. If at the previous service not enough or any grease was put on the spline where it goes into the motor, it will rust, and be very difficult to separate. Spray lots of

Fred, Yes, a number of owners have experienced this problem. I have helped 3 owners with this problem. It is generally caused by failing to perform periodic maintenance on the bow thruster,

Hello everybody As anybody ever have a problem with the SM 2000 bow thruster. the elect. motor seems to be bonded to the "carbon"shaft. Amel sent us a tool,but still is not moving.Pushed and pulled

Peter, It appears that the compression loads are being borne by the aft cockpit bulkhead and mast box rather than being properly transferred down the compression posts. As you point out, the

Hi Enio I think the only issue might be if the temperature sensors connect the engine casing to the battery –ve – I do not believe that this is the case but I will check with a test meter in a

Bill We are there on 21st September. If no-one else is able to help we could assist. Ian and Linda Ocean Hobo SN96

Thank you all for the help. But I also have this doubt. The Sterling system has two temperature sensors for temperature of the battery and alternator. The manual says that these should be connected to

Mark, Thank you for the files link. I found some excellent data on the running rigging for the SM but did not see anything for the 46 Maramu. Does anyone know if the line sizes are the same

Peter, I have inspected only two Maramus to date, one was a 1983 with the single spreader spar and then my own which is a 1987 with the double spreader Nirvana mast. I don't think that the mast

Hi Enio, I see Andrew gave you the link to his file, here's mine https://xa.yimg.com/df/amelyachtowners/Leese-Neville+Alternator+Mod.pdf The difference between my system and the Sterling system is

Hello James and other amel owners, I have read this topic with interest because my Maramu 1985 (single spreader, non furling, Isomat masts) seems to have the same issue as your boat. I would say even

Jean Paul, Did you complete the installation of the Rocna 33 on your Maramu? Are you happy with how it works? Best wishes, David Lambertsen sv Have Fun! 1989 Maramu 258

Too funny. Funny you should mention Lewmar winches and B&G instruments. Both items are on our repair list right now L However, on a previous boat we did have a lot of good luck with our