A week ago I operated the switch in the companion way and the Masse - lamp illuminated, but only just. The lense is missing and if it was in place, the illumination of the lamp is so weak, I doubt I

Hi Enio, In my experience the metal lug of the temperature sensor is isolated from the sensor wires, so you should have no issues with the alternator case. Cheers Alan Elyse SM437

Ian, We have someone to accept the award for us. Thanks, Bill BeBe 387

Looking also to do the same set up. Which fuse did you find? Personally I am a bit confused of the set-up as there are 2 hot wire. (again: electricity is my weak point). Sincerely,

I am looking to install a series of fuses in my shore power cord near the pedestal in my shore power cord . However I cannot find a suitable holder. Does anyone have a solution? Amel uses a very

And finally for the time being, another great general reference text: Boats, Yachts: Tips on Electrical System Use and Maintenance Boats, Yachts: Tips on Electrical System Use and

Thanks Kent. I discovered another great reference here, that ties a lot of stuff together - with a safety first imperative: http://www.rjwsurvey.com/uploads/Grounding.pdf David ---In

All, Didn't yet find the exact elusive reference articles, but did find this (again), a primer on Electrolytic Corrosion: Electrolytic corrosion | Pangolin [

Peter, Now that I see the potential problem I will be checking all aspects of the mizzen mast support on Sueno and will let you know what I find. The mizzen mast box on my boat is still fit

Hi Fred, DO NOT CUT the tube!!! I tried to source that tube when I was on the road you are on. Very hard to get, well in Australia at least. It took many hours to have it release. As posted before.

Hi all, I made the tool that there are images of on the site. It didn’t move the shaft at all until I sprayed a product called “Yield" on it. It is $75.00 Aus, and comes in a gold can, as it

I think there's a tool that you can use to press it off. Seems like I remember someone posted a pic of it. Have you tried lifting the thruster from below and pulling down hard and fast? I believe

Best thing to do is move, if that's not possible, disconnect from shore power. Run the generator until it's fixed. If you disconnect and still have hull potential greater than -900mv (less negative

Fred, Where are you? If you add where you are to your posts, there may be a SM owner nearby and will volunteer to help. Bill BeBe 386 Boat in Trinidad, crew in Houston

Thanks everybody I am arming myself with patience,lube and a hammer..... will let you know when it breaks free. Fred #269

Ok James I will check again the bottom of the box from outside and will try to remove some of the isolation on the ceiling of engine room and check there. Will let you know any results. When you are

Fred, Don't cut the tube. That will not solve your problem and will create several new problems. Patience, steady and persistent pulling with the tool, tapping with a mallet, and in 2-3 days it

Hi Kent, Electrolytic and galvanic corrosion has been an intriguing topic of conversation between many folk on this forum, and with some considerable cost to some. I have been an avid follower, but

Hi Andrew We have the version with the 4 screws holding it to the iron flange. I've been fighting with this for a long time and it never moved a millimeter.push,pulled,torqued,heated....screamed at

Agree with Andrew, Make sure you removed all the bolts. I am sure you saw the illustration of the process: http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_overhaul.html Don't cut the tube. Be patient and keep