I'm just replacing our wearing bearing and looking at the 2 x little screw in keys (that hold the bronze wearing bearing in place?) which are screwed in with a #3 allen key, it puzzles me as to what

Hi Duane, I had the same issue with the solenoid. I took it apart and rebuilt it...it was only a wire connection inside that had corroded. But in the meantime I bought a couple of these as spares

Bill, Thanks for the reply. There is voltage between the blue and green/white wires, after I realized I have to also turn on the 24V motor breaker. That's apparently where the Dessalator panel gets

Olivier, I jumped the A to the B and the motor ran fine. I rechecked the voltage and continuity between the blue and green/white wires and now find 24.7V and continuity, with the Dessalator switch

Hi Duane, I prefer your new diagram!! No power at the solenoid input (between green/white and blue wires) means the switch at the galley control panel does not do its job or a fuse is blown in the

Duane, I apologize that I have not read all of this thread (poor internet here) and maybe you have already checked or considered the following possibility: If there is no voltage going to the Low

Olivier, I will post a revised wiring diagram. You are right, the red is positive, and the breaker is on the red. I did not have to disconnect any wiring to replace the one-way bearings on the cat

You e gotten good advice here Duane. The solenoid may just be stuck in the open position. When that happened on mine, I tapped on the solenoid a few times with a wrench and the motor started right

Hello again Duane, I just read John and Craig posts. If you get a voltage between A and B on the solenoid switch, you have a big problem. DON'T try to connect jumper cables from the batteries to

Hello Duane (from freezing La Rochelle/France), a solenoid-switch is a switch (that connects two big cables) operated by a solenoid fed from small wires. When you turn on the water-maker at the

Hi Duane, Actually the 24v reading from A to B indicates the solenoid is Open. When closed it is simply like a wire conducting electricity and any two points along it will have no potential

Hi Duane, referring back to your diagram, If there is voltage between the points A and B on the solenoid then I believe that would indicate that the solenoid is open rather than closed, meaning

The 24 volt motor won't start on the Duo 60. I'm a little suspicious of the cause since I was replacing the one-way bearings on the Cat Pump. It worked up to that point, and then when the bearing

Hi all, my comments about deck and rail mount previously remain my opinion, ie vulnerable however there is another very serious consideration. Unless it is a calm sea holing (and on the Amel we have

If you plan on serious sailing and really want to do it properly then stowage on deck or aft-rail with a hydrostatic release is the way to go. (Ok mine is in the cockpit locker.) But more important

Thank you to everyone for the great responses and for the links to the articles on placement and preparedness. Wonderful to hear the many different ways the group approaches the same issue. I will be

These are very interesting : Focus on liferafts: are you ready – Yachting World Focus on liferafts: are you ready – Yachting World Mike Owen looks at the

Number two is what we do. Danny

Hi Bill, First, let me add in my , "here, here" and thanks for your forum contributions. I recall several comments from others about having a minor port list (aft down being another issue). With

Bill We currently use your option #1 (think we copied it from you in 2011) but with only 9 x jerry cans (22.5L@) in that space (10th one doesn't fit in our case) and the 10th jerry can under the