Bill Kinney, Actually you may have done yourself a favour by using the slotted head style. While the hex and square drive heads are really convenient since slippage of the tool is reduced, in my

Bill, Are you usingan impact driver? Manual, air or electric? With bestregards, Mark Skipper Sailing Vessel- Cream Puff www.creampuff.us

Dear Amelians, I'm also evaluating a downwind / lightwind solution for my AMEL54, but I have the older configuration than Thomas, two separate poles, one on each side to be mounted to the mastfoot.

Hi Kent, Thank you for the data point. It seems likely we have the same setup. I believe my membranes are 20", though I haven't measured them. Ryan and Kelly SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA

Hi Philipp, I am going to replace my SM 2K cockpit enclosure with a Bimini type top. If you want my framework, I will ship it to you at your cost. Kent Kristy SM 243 Currently St Michaels MD USA

Hi James, Best advice I can give you is to get a surveyor very familiar with Amels. I would get Olivier Beaute to do it and pay to fly him to where ever the boat is. There is another well-thought-of

Davi, That screw is black oxide coated mild steel. It will rust in no time. You want to use 316 Stainless Steel screws whenever you can on the boat. Certainly for anything that is exposed to salt

Hi Davi, Suggest you use phosphoric acid to clean the rust and put some into the hole. That will also passivate any rust on the embedded carbon steel plate, thus slowing future rusting. Best, Craig,

Davi, Those are black oxide coated mild steel. They will rust in no time in that environment. You want them made from 316 Stainless Steel. Something like these should work:

Apologies you are right. I just measured 13.5v at the circulating pump. Not sure how I got that wrong, anyway. So they need to be 12v pumps for sure. Nick Amelia (54)

Davi, That doesn't look like the right screw... I do not think it is stainless... The best choice would be part number Grainger Item# 26LG09 But before you order them, pull out one of the existing

I guess I need to add this to the list of things to do one day. What are thespecs of the replacement screws? With bestregards, Mark Skipper Sailing Vessel- Cream Puff - SM2K -

Hi Thomas, In the best Italian tradition the information is not very clear to discover, but if you go to https://nautikulma.fi/PDF/248-Veco.pdf, in the PDF at page 44 you will find the devices I

this12 volt pump can bé found in Osculati catalog at About 80 € If his pump does not work probably the reason is on the carbons that can be easely checked and changed It is also necessary to clean

Bill, Hi there.... is this the screw for the job, from grainger? I think I might be needing this soon on my SM #56... Got some butyl tape ordered too...so would I unseat the stanchion, clean the rust

Hey Kent, What line are you calling the "Tack Rope"? Sounds like an asym spinnaker pendant (non-Amel). Craig ---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote : I am replacing my running rigging prior

Out of curiosity I asked Veco (Annapolis Frigoboat/Climma distributor) about their warning to use only sea water for cooling, not tank water. My questions are below with their answers in red. "Dear

Hi Bill, is this the screw for the job? From the grainger site... I think this will be a task I'll have to do soon on my SM #56 too.... Thanks! Davi

Arno, Thanks for the measure, it’s useful info. Do you have your source of frigoboat info? I’d be happy to read it. The circulation pump is hot indeed, and always has been, and I also saw it hot

Kent For Genoa furling just experiment. My switch needed cleaning so I sat on the foredeck with 8m of 10mm. It didn’t take long to fuel and little effort. Ian Ocean Hobo SN96