Olaf, Possibly this will help you, or, at least make you feel better. Although I cannot provide any reference for this, I was once told that when a bonding system is connected to more than one anode,

Hmmm, I don’t see a way to attach a photo. I’ll add it to the Kristy Album. Kent

I have finally gotten around to removing the hatch over the forward head. The nuts on the bolts at the corners were spinning, and were buried between the hatch/deck and the backing for the headliner

I have an oil sucker, the 6.5 Lt with a manual pump. When I change the oil every 200 hours, I also suck out the transmission fluid and change it too. Takes an additional 5 minutes. Ken Sailing

If you are leaving the boat on the hard for a while here is a list you may want to think about: Sea Water Valves 1. Close all sea water valves. There are two in the engine room. 2. Put a

Pat, My drawings say there is a 17mm drain plug on the starboard side of the ZF25M (the side opposite the shift lever). It is pretty much directly under the dipstick. I have never gone under there

Olaf, The only reason that one zinc would not corrode as expected is that it is not making proper electrical contact with the bonding system. When you are hauled out, check for continuity between

Thanks John and Mark, I reached out to Dave to check his availability. Much appreciated. Best, Joey ---In amelyachtowners@..., <mcerdos@...> wrote : I second Dave Huffman. He was referred to us by

Hello AMELians, I found out that the zink anode on starboard side doesn't corrode. What could be the reason? What I have to check? The zink anode on portside corrode as expected. Thanks so much

Hello AMELians, In two weeks my SM2K will behaul out. For me it is the first time of a haul out with a SM2K. What would you suggest to do beforeand (directly) after haul out? That’s my

When I went to the Yanmar school the instructor said that connecting a hose to the dip-stick tube and pumping will remove the majority of the oil. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander

Good morning Graham, During the bow thruster overhauled I did, twice I did not put the 30 x 42 x 8 oil seal properly and the 90 weight oil slowly leaked from the tuffnol shaft. So had to put a new

Jeppe, Very, very interesting that Amel built most of the saloon and forward cabin pass through/ducting even on those boats that neither have forced air nor heating from the factory! Since the hard

Cheers Porter Sounds like you are all in the right state..........of mind!! Courtney svTrippin

Bill, I am getting ready to change the fluid as well. I have not found a plug ,could you confirm there is one and where, I am surprised that it only takes 3/4 of a liter. I am sure I was told to use

Replaced the underwater seal on the plastic shaft (on which the bow thruster prop is mounted) and very quickly the oil was leaking out. I suspect this shaft has become so worn the standard seal is now

Eric, I believe we have the same motor and I have experienced the same with the installed pump being incapable of getting out all the old oil. I pump until nothing comes out, and then add a quart or

As an added precaution. I always close the sea cock and run fresh water through the system to be worked on for a few minutes before replacing impellers or hoses etc. this method provides and added

Sorry Paul, I led you up the garden path! I was talking about the ZF25 Hydrailic Transmission . I’m not familiar with SM systems. (Actually I’m still not that familiar with all my 54 systems for

Dave, I too have been looking at the Beta to replace my TMD22....no turbo and Kubota parts world wide. Could you put me in touch with your client? Is it a SM he/she has? It would be great to talk to