On my yet to be delivered Amel 50, Amel is installing the 230V Bauer JR II. I've had it on my previous boat also and it worked well. It needs lots of ventilation if in hot climate. Just remember to

I would like to sail my A55 to Tunesia in May and am looking at 2 ports near Tunis. Sidi Bou Said or Marina de Gammarth. Anybody have any recent experience with either port? I’m particularly

Hello Maramu owners, I am not at my boat currently so need some help. Can Maramu owners suggest modern anchors that are known to fit the original Amel anchor rollers on the Maramu? I would like

H Danny, It is a JuniorII by Bauer: https://www.bauer-kompressoren.de/products/breathing-air-sports/compact-line-100-140-lmin/junior-ii-100-lmin/ We have this onCream Puff and was installed by

Non Slip Paint Many years ago on my first boat, "Faith of Norfolk” I was fed up with the teak deck. So I ripped it all up. It had been laid over ply which was still sound. To cut a long story short;

Hi all, when we bought Ocean Pearl the previous owner had removed the dive compressor. I would like to add this now. (belatedly) having finally moved from the must have list to the nice to have list.

I'm late to this topic but following Craig's lead also replaced the hawse pipe with a pvc tube. When I cut out the remains of the corroded original part I still had 1-2” of perfectly good pipe on

Jose, When you say that the Faux-teak is missing in places do those thin areas look white by chance? If so closely by feel deck where you have the white areas and you may find that the wood grain

Hey Jose, I've got the same issue on Sangaris, with the original faux teak wearing off and showing brush strokes. From a prior life I recall there's an attribute of paint called "bridging". That's

Hi Thomas, No, I didn't reinforce under the floor. That thin tabbing from the original floor, which I ground back to be about 2" wide, really provides tremendous strength - after all it was all that

James, Thanks for your info. When I had Ipanema's hull done with Awl grip 5 years ago, the also covered the non-skid sections of the stern, making them quite skiddy. I complained and they added an

Thomas, Glad to see that you are getting some good direction from Craig. I would definitely take his advice about pre glassing the bottom of the panels. I would only suggest that: 1. If you are

Craig- did you reinforce under the floor in any way or is all the hold coming from the sides and top tabbing (the thin fiberglass lip notwithstanding). I feel like I should have some kind of wedge

Hello Does anyone in the group use a Max Prop with the shaft alternator I have read that it does work any tricks? Tom Deasy Maramu 125

Tom, Better to payattention to someone who actually did it themselves than someone who paid Amelto do it J With bestregards, Mark Skipper Sailing Vessel- Cream Puff - SM2K -

Hi Thomas, Yes, that's how they come out, which is good as you are now rid of all the old rotted wood. After sanding and cleaning that lip and 3-ish inches up on the hull, I applied a generous amount

Is it possible to cut 3” wide stripes of the marine plywood. (theymay not need to be this wide) cut to length. Resin these to the hull andbulkhead making a new shelf. You will probably have to grind

Day 1 of the bow locker floor replacement. I'm reminded of the elder Moltke's tenet that no plan survives first contact with the enemy. As I cut the port bow locker's floor out, the 3 inch lip I was

When we purchased RK she was equipped with the zinc on the auto prop and the bonding system was tested and intact. A short time after moving aboard, I noticed the main bonding wire had become detached

Thomas, PVC could work but I was envisioning using a more slippery plastic than PVC for the sacrificial plastic bushing. Perhaps Nylon? I would suggest shaping the part without any square edges