Mike- your floor looks great. I know how hard it is to cut and refine that shape. On L'ORIENT my chain locker bilge (under that glassed in perforated grate at the bottom of the chain locker) was

Hi Mike, a while back I posted a photo of a tongue that goes through the inner of the swivel and into the slot in the foil. This locates the center and prevents the scratching you mention. This

Duane, That makes perfect sense. Tomorrow’s job, thanks. One dollar to do the hitting, 49 for knowing where to hit. Greg Shea Sharki 133 Cap des Iles Currently at Preveza

Greg, I'm not sure from your question: are you trying to unscrew them from the outside of the casing? If so you need to remove the nuts on the aft of the windlass aluminum cover, then slide the cover

Scott, I had the same issue (masse light) with my Marco UP3E pump. I would be very interested in what you may have learned.. I also removed the bonding wire from the pump to solve the problem.

Thanks everyone for the informative responses on this topic. We're having a new set of horns fabricated and plan to cover them with some hose material. Anything one can do to reduce halyard wraps,

Nice detail. I’m going to leave the steel stub in the floor. After installing the PVC pipe I’ll glass it in heavily as well. If the steel eventually rots out the PVC and fiberglass should conduct

This is my fillet/header....note the back starboard windlass bolt. 4 inch Pvc works. Despite the appearance, I used silicone to seal the header to pvc joint and supported the PVC from below with my

My thinking was that the other 3 windlass bolts were secured by large fillets to the floor and supported by the floor joint to the vertical divider. I just created a 4th fillet for the back starboard

I need to change out the switch on my Lofrans Tigres windlass. I have the switch but how do you remove the rubber (?) boot that protects the switch. From the parts diagram it looks like it unscrews

Possibly the filter requires 10-20 minutes of flow to flush out preservatives. Most do. Did you do this? Best, CW Bill Rouse Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners www.YachtSchool.us 720 Winnie

Hi Tom. The bolt you’re talking about screws into a steel plate embedded in the fiberglass. That plate is I believe welded to the hawse pipe to transfer load to the hawse pipe.. With the rusting out

Hi Gary. Here are some pictures of the hawse pipe. With scale. Note how rotted out the steel pipe was. Mike Aletes SM#240

Hi Mike, Looking good. Could you provide the ID (inside diameter) of the Amel hawse pipe? Thanks, Gary S. Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 # 335

Hi Thomas, my understanding has both readings well within acceptable limits Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl

Never thought to do this before (and wish I hadn't). Test of galley faucet water- 187 ppm (tank filled from watermaker only), test of seagull spigot with 1 week old filter- 210 ppm. And those filters

Hey mike- cool pics....question for you. Are all 4 of your windlass bolts accessible or is the back starboard bolt glassed over ? Wondering why not just replace the whole hawse pipe and make your

Do preventing maintenance. Apply penetrating epoxy on the bottom and epoxy paint on top. I jump in the locker. It is solid. Vladimir S/V "Life is Good" SM2000 345.

In the midst of Bow locker floor replacement. See attached photos. Plywood bottom was rotting and delaminating resulting in failure of the port locker. It was cut out to within 3 inches of the

Hey Gary. I made a header out of fiberglass with a wide lip (to seat the back starboard windlass bolt). I glued and screwed the header under the windlass. The header lip fits 2 inches inside the 4