Paul, In the southern Chesapeake we have used Severn Yachting Center for most all of our repairs including haul outs. Not sure how many Amel’s besides ours they have worked on, but I will say they

Nick, Assuming that the worm gear and the shaft are both metal... I would try heating the component ( I assume this is the worm gear) with the hole to expand it while cooling the other part (the

Paul, Saw your message and shot you an email. FYI, my wife Denise grew up on City Island. She lived on Early Street and was friends with the Ulmer family who ran the Ulmer Sails sail loft before

Bert Jabins is also a very good spot. They have handled quite a few Amels; Harmonie, Delos, and a few others. Aras Sharki #163 1989 -- Aras Grinius

Good day all, We need to haul the RK in the near future for an insurance survey and while out we want to repaint the bottom. In case we need to re-epoxy the cast iron keel this time around, I want to

Having had an intermittently working chain counter for the past two years (it could not record properly the chain going down, but was OK on the chain going up), I share my two cents which worked in my

You need a Puller it's much safer but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge

I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive. It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced. Problem; Shaft into the worm gear is very

Alexis, I'm not sure how the routing is for the SM but in the 54 the drain pipe for the primary pump goes in a curve up and then down to the central drain-hose that also connects the manual bilgepump,

Hi Oliver, Thanks for that. Any idea where I can get one? I’ve contacted a couple of dealers but no reply so far. The other thing is that I don’t actually know what the problem is other

Yes that’s right, close the seacock for a while with the fridge running, so it fills the manifold. Careful not to keep it closed too long though. Paul Dowd Managing Director FGPS

Thanks, I never thought about that. But how can a magnet “break”? Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

No worries, I’m on the right track with this now. Thanks all the same. Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

Indeed Arno, this flap is not in a proper shape anymore, and is likely to create an air leak. About your second pump, you connected the out hose to the primary one with something like a T junction?

Thanks a lot Danny, interesting way to solve it, will keep that in mind. I just remember the hose was really hard to move and manipulate, not very flexible.

Thx Paul. this said, it sounds like a different issue as my pump was working well for many days and suddenly stopped. But maybe your procedure would solve it the same way. What do you mean filling

Hi Paul, It is a simple reed contact, example Meeder. Costs like 99 cents. Better order some spare, as the windlass is quite exposed to saltwater. When connected to the wire, dip it in sikkaflex or

Hi Dave, True confession, I have twice furled the headsail with the ballooner halyard in place. (I could say I was distracted by difficult “emergency” conditions, but that does not substitute

Yes, the 54 and SM are different in terms of chain counters. I’m pretty sure the SM “button” on the windlass is not magnetic, the proximity sensor only requires a metal counter. -- Tom

Hello Mark and Nicky, Welcome aboard!!! If I had your situation, I would think more of an overhaul than Beta. Lots of spare parts available through Parts4engines.com. If after analysis, an engine