Just a few words of cautionary opinion that probably everyone knows and believes. A load should almost never occur on the windlass except for a momentary load when recovering an anchor. That

Scott, maybe this will help: Dessalator HP screw-on Connectors.pdf CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School +1 832-380-4970 | brouse@... 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550

Dean, I replaced the gypsy with the one on the second winch (which is new). It did not help. the main problem is when the chain gets twisted and this happens on my boat when the chain gets in under a

Alan, I 100% agree with your view on the short battens and the in mast furling, but I have to say, at least with the last generation of in boom furlers. It is very slow to set sail. Any day I would

Hello, My dessalator is the 160 liters so there one inlet straight and the other one is 90° To unscrew the straight one, I remove the "demi-lune" on the end cap and use it to fix the inlet. No damage

I just completed the repair. I won't test it for 48 hours to allow the Loctite 542 to fully cure, but will report back. You are right that the 90 degree bend does make it a bit easier. Martin of

Well, without wanting to stir the pot too much..... I inherited the main and mizzen sails on Elyse, Hydranet by DeMe Voiles with short battens in both sails. As long as the boom is close to 90 degrees

Scott, I went through the mental exercise of doing this, but was unable to do it in practice because I had no way to effectively unscrew my inlet from the pipe as it was straight (no way to hold it

Dear all, Once again thank you very much for a very useful info and proposed solutions. As I intend to increase my bank to 12 batteries, I would cut a “centre-line” in the bank’s “carpet” to

Scott, Yes, first, you need to remove the inlet (normal thread, you turn on the left). Then you remove the HP nut (reverse thread, turn on the right). Regads Dominique

Dominique, Ah ok, so it seems I need to remove the inlet (90 degree stainless elbow) before I can remove the 19mm nut on the HP hose? Is the 90 degree stainless elbow / 19mm junction, circled in

Hello Scott, I had he same leak last week. It is easy to fix. You don't need to remove membranes block. With a 19 mm wrench you fix the nut on the HP hose and you remove the inlet. After you will

Scott, Thanks for the confirmation re coupling. I am buying it to have for my planned November project to drop the BT and replace the seals, as it appears likely that the old will break in that

Good to know. I purchased 8mm thick seals, only because that's what I could find with a stainless spring. Hope that isn't too thick. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com

Nick, You are correct. I've had to replace mine. https://www.westmarine.com/side-power-side-power-one-piece-flexible-coupling-for-se120-through-se170-thrusters-17192378.html Your part number is for

I'm sure I'm not the first person experiencing this problem, but it's a first for me, so hoping for some tips. The high pressure hose / connector interface on our Duo100 is showing signs of leakage.

Scott I do not think you will get two in. In any case I think that water just runs down the vertical shaft and into the locker below More or less harmlessly. Once you have it all moving, that is the

Hi Ryan & Kelly, I'm not sure of the material used by Amel. Maud refered to them simply as plastic. They cost 65 euro from Amel about a year ago and should fit Bonfiglioli and Leroy Sommers (as

I am starting to have a similar problem with the chain jumping off the gypsy, almost exclusively when under some load. My chain is not corroded, and the gypsy looks fine. The chain is definitely

Great, thank you Nick! I am wondering if there's enough space to put two lip seals in there, similar to how our C drive has two lip seals facing in one direction. Looking at the price of the