When it rains it pours... The tank on my SN#68 just sprung a leak. I haven't taken it out yet, but It appears a straight-forward job to remove and carry out to the cockpit. (not being in the engine

On my Super Maramu the mizzen could not benfurled propetly anymore - 3/4 turns worked ok, the about 1/4 turn I had to help turning the foil with my hand. When taking the gear box apart, I found that

Thanks for the reply Bill. The "idle" is not very clear. It turns out I only moved the rinsing valve 90 degrees. It doesn't open until about 135 degrees from the "seawater" position. Oddly, I have a

Do not turn ON the Dessalator for rinsing. Have the pressure valve all the way counterclockwise. The reason the water pump was not running is: You are using water pressure from the accumulator tanks

Francisco, Good, I am glad that it worked for you. Tell us how much you paid for the part. Bill Rouse BeBe Amel 53 #387 Sent from my tablet +1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

Thank you Bill. I just removed it. Quick B3... unscrews through about 10 turns counterclockwise. It is Italian-made, so off to the hardware store I go. Thanks again,

To rinse the Duo 60 Dessalator, the instructions say "This should be carried out while the desalinator is idle and with the pressure regulator open (fully anti-clockwise)." I assume "idle" means "not

It may depend on the brand, and frankly, I do not remember, except that I believe it turns one-quarter turn...try a YouTube search for "water heater heating element replacement." I am sure that you

Many thanks for all the advice... so, the heating element... it is a giant bolt, right? The largest I have is a 38mm and it is far too small! Remove by turning counterclockwise, I suppose? Thanks

Ian, that is an important comment. If you buy the element at a marine store, it could be hundreds of dollars/euros. However, if you buy the element at a plumbing supply shop, it will be less than a

Agree. Your heating element is burned out and short circuiting. Empty the tank, remove and replace. They are only domestic items so shoulder be cheap. Ian Ocean Hobo SN96

Hi Peregrinus, The RCDs protect against a ground fault, not an overcurrent situation. Even a small current going to ground will trip the RCDs. It is most likely your heating element in the water

Francisco, Your electric heating element inside the water heater has developed pin holes. Water enters the pin holes and causes a ground fault. The element needs replacing. Be sure to get a new

Hello Peregrinus, I had the same symptoms when the heating element burnt out. I suggest you start with this. Fair winds, Jean-Pierre Germain Eleuthera, SM 007 Lanzarote Jean-Pierre Germain, +44 7551

Hello, this morning when I turned on the water heater, the boat immediately lost 220V power. When one depresses the 220V panel water heater, two things happen at the same time: 1. The RCD device

Leroy Somer tell me that the MVA gearbox was originally filled with Shell Tivela A Shell Tivela Compound A is a synthetic, semifluid gear lubricant. It wasdeveloped in co-operation with major gear

True Allan. However oil is always more of a challenge to seals than grease, in some situations in my former life I have added grease to oil in a gearbox to solve habitual leakage. The lithium grease

It seems reasonable that IF you put a grease nipple on the gearbox, you need another hole to let out the old grease, otherwise you'll blow the sealsSeems to me though that using grease is always

Danny, Ok thanks. I like the plan of using the Lithium since it does not stain the sails too bad if it gets out. Best, James Alton SV Sueno, Maramu #220 Arbatax, Italy

Hi James, no I don't. I use a lithium grease, and use the same all the time. The original grease in my gearboxes was completely solid so I cleaned it out.. So mixing wasn't an issue. The box I did in