There are several Jabsco pumps that would work. I chose model 34600-0010, 24V, 3.5A, 10.8 gal/min. I will post a pic of it on the shelf I added to mount it where the old one was located. My float

Keith, The gap that you see in that white nylon gear is a missing/broken gear tooth. You need to replace the gear. The only place in the world that I know for sure that had some of these gears for

Hi Keith, I had that problem some years ago. The nylon gear ring goes around the inner nylon drive disc and relies on a fine toothed spline to keep it from slipping. With time that spline slips

Congratulations James ! This is very good when Michel was unsure of the answer he did research. Welcome to the family again! Alexandre --------------------------------------------

Vladimir, See post #24890 about this - you do not need an additional wire for the strobe. Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN#68 Sangaris ---In amelyachtowners@..., <sonsev52@...> wrote : Eric, Did you run

Hi Drew, They're up in Massachusetts - Great Water, Inc..Web site is isotherm-parts.com or just google isotemp. They're very helpful and can ship quickly. If you're looking for a wonderful spot in NYC

Kent Please provide the model of your new bilge pump. Jubsco makes several different models of bilge pumps. On May 22, 2016 7:18 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]"

Eric, Did you run additional wire and install a swith for the strobe light on top of the mast? Where did you install strobe switch? On May 26, 2016 1:39 AM, "sailormon kimberlite@...

Hi Barry & Robyn We have had the same Aqua Signal Series 34 LED Masthead Tri/Anchor Light on Island Peal II for around 6 months now with no problems at all. In our case it just slotted into the

Hello All By chance my A.M.F.A sump pump stopped working this morning... I removed the top cover (housing the place where the circular motion of the motor is converted into the lateral pumping

Just an afterthought Phil. Was your speed boat knots or speed over the ground? Is your speed accurately calibrated? I know my ST60 (Raymarine) are difficult to adjust. If I get 8 knots calibrated

I only use the strobe if a ship is bearing down on me and they do not answer the VHF after many attempts. I just want to talk to the bridge and advise them of my evasive action. I do not want them

Installed the Aqua Signal Series 34 LED Masthead Tri/Anchor Light today. Quite bright too and with a 2 year guarantee (whatever that is tsk tsk) . Surprise!!! it is NOT made in China, manufactured by

Drew, When the boat is out of the water you can check for continuity of the propellor shaft with each of the rudder zincs individually. As long as there is zero resistance, the zinc is in contact

Bill, This is a tough and unfortunately common problem. It's good to see a number of possible solutions posted already I think that one of the first steps needs to be to take it slow and be

I took a little different approach to fixing the broken base for the forward head. It's the second time it has failed, in 6-8ft seas both times, with inexperienced crew. Since the original base had 4

Alexandre, I can share your pain of broken off stainless bolts, best of luck. It looks like I will be closing on my Amel next month. Having spent 3 days with Michel Charpentier during the

Phil Mine's no 96 with the Perkins Prima 50. With a clean bottom and flat water PLUS no headwind I do just over 6 knots. Any headwind or swell will push me back half a knot. Yes the Santorin is a bit

Hi Drew. If you are on the hard, check the resistance from the bonding system to each zinc. I would guess that it is low on the port zinc and high or totally open on the starboard side. If the bolt