I do think you have been very lucky. I started with a Santorin in 97, had problems with that pump, moved to a SM2k in 2001, again had problems (one of 2 things: the flaps torn down or the teeth of

Thanks Olivier and Craig, I tryed yesterday to remove the old forestay but I can't, I understand I have only remove the rivets and the three bolts but the furler goes down only four cm. My forestay is

Hi that 64 with the teak is not standard AMEL it is a option that I don't think AMEL will offer going forward. Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All Capt Richard RP Yacht Brokerage Newport RI We list

JP, Always a problem? I have rebuilt BeBe's (387) sump pump twice in 13 years. I happen to think that is remarkable. I have known other owners that have not touched this pump in 10 years, and that

These pumps have always been a problem. However, there is a much better and much cheaper choice, available in 12v and 24v at West Marine (US$ 334): SEALAND T Series Discharge Pump.

My bilge pump stopped working because check valve on discharge line failed. I replied the check valve and there is no problem. On May 21, 2016 11:07 AM, "svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners]"

Ours got rebuilt in Ft. Lauderdale in 2013 with an Amel-sourced new membrane, etc. In 2014, in Maine, the plastic piston between the motor and the pump wore out, so we put in a new piston sourced

Hello Gang, When the yard in Turkey blew up my pump, they replaced it with a Vetus… Mounted against the starboard side of the engine battery box (located in the engine bay on Eleuthera) (plug and

Ben We had the same problem and eventually changed the unit. Ours has been on for 4 years and no problem. As you may be in St Martin, Island Water world has the pump that we have. It is on pg 466 of

Ben, The most common cause of a failure of the Marina pumps is not the diaphragm or the flapper valves. It is caused because the hose gets old and hard and does not seal well on the pump. If that hose

I used my last AMFA rebuild kit so now have two non functioning bilge pumps. Can anyone recommend a source for rebuild kits or nitrol diaphragms? Or can anyone recommend a replacement pump in the

Thanks to Olivier and Paul through emails, I now have clear schematics and good advice for the job. For anyone following this thread let me copy Olivier's very clear explanation: the upper unit is

Many thanks, Paul. Just to be clear, when you say undo the 2 nuts on the cross member, you do mean the two nuts on the stud bolts coming up from the rubber mounts - correct? Then, by undoing the 4

Craig We did this the past year. First undo the 2 nuts on the cross member. Undo the 4 bolts on the bottom of the unit. These are down by the 2 clamps holding the rubber on. The bolts are on the

I'd appreciate some expert advice on removing the C drive. Last September there was good discussion where Kent and Olivier said to loosen the hose clamps on the BIG hose sealing the upper unit to the

Hi Antonio, sorry that I could not reply earlier. What Craig writes is right. The furler should go down and pass the swage. You need to shake the thread-swage while you try to move the furler (or

Hello Antonio, After you removed the rivets were you able to lift the extrusion out of its socket a few centimeters? That is where you will see the bushing - be careful not to drop it. Did you remove

Hi John. Sorry we missed you today when we visited Port Douglas. You were out sailing on Popeye. Good stuff. We will come out again next week. Is there a day that would suit you best? Let us

Bill, have found a UK after market manufacturer for discontinued B&G parts including the SOV paddle wheel. It's called A&T electronics seems to be a sister company of Tinley Electronics.

Hi Bill, I stored my 3 Penn 50/wides with 6' trolling rods on the ceiling above the the port forward berth. Check this link for the holders used. http://www.leetackle.com/rodstorage.html I have the