Hi Bob, I'm waiting for a reply from Amel...hope I'm not too much older before I hear from them. I have talked to Joel Potter who says the lower unit has to be removed to change the prop shaft. There

Kent, My guess is that the electrolysis source is DC current from onboard systems. milliamps. Double digit or higher?. The chargers you mention definitely are suspect, but so are all the dc powered

I am really glad you chimed in here Derick. I believe that with your brain and some luck and my cousin's brawn, I might just get this rusty old chain out of my life. Thanks again, Kent

Kent, I was not familiar with PB Blaster, so I looked up the Material Safety Data Sheet to better understand its composition and potential incompatibilities. I suggest you read it too.

Thanks again Derick, I will give it a try, although I'm not sure I can get the EDTA in time for this weekend unless I can find it locally here or in Jacksonville/Fernandina area. I'll have some time

Kent, I am a biochemist by trade and spent many years in the laboratory. Nearing retirement now, but some of it rubbed off on me. Better living through chemistry! My proposed solution to your

Hi, Bob, Thanks for your reply and suggestions. I have Calder's book on the boat and will have a look at it when I get back there this weekend. Electricity is my weakest suit when it comes to

Hello Bill, The pressure of our hot has always been the same as the cold one. Having said that, our boat no longer has the Isotherm boiler. Our has a Quick 40 liter heater, with the electric coil not

Hi Drew, Thanks, but it is every faucet including the new head at the galley sink. I am going to start with the fittings on the water heater today and see what I see. Bill BeBe 387

Kent, Am really sorry to hear what happened. Am hopeful theres a C-drive repair method that will work well. As for troubleshooting the electrolysis stray current...in Calder's Mechanical and

Hey, what a great post, Derick. I wondered where our Amel-owning chemist was. Is this a theoretical idea or do you know of it being successful in the past for something like this? I heard back from

Mark, The website is , info@...

Hi Derick, My friend owns a slip at Sapphire. If he is on board his 60+ foot Hylass,please say hi to John on Trinity from Eric Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite SM 376 From:

Kent, I would try to dissolve the rust (which is essentially Fe++ and Fe+++) with a chelator like citric acid. An old home remedy for rust stains appearing in your dishwasher has been to run it

For some reason, the hot was pressure decreased over time; there was crud in the filter in the fitting where the shower hose connects to the mixer valve. I know it should affected both hot and

The problem with my heater is always the hot water coil in the tank. I've had two develop leaks in 4 years. It's an integral part of the tank and can't be replaced or repaired...you have to replace

Has anyone experienced low hot water pressure? The original Isotemp hot water heater was replaced in 2008. I have checked the air pressure of the hot water expansion tank and it is correct. The same

Kent keep putting an oil base anti rust solution on the chain. Give it time to work. By the sound of your other issue you got time. Think about putting a zinc on your anchor and dropping right there

Steve Dashew is offering for FREE downloads of two of his books http://setsail.com/weather-forecasting-storm-tactics-and-successful-cruising/. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite SM 376

Thanks Trevor, Hadn't thought of the hot metal being a problem. I'm looking at small grinders and "chippers" or electric or pneumatic chisels right now. I'll let you all know what I come up with