I am not quite sure if this is the correct English term. I have also seen cutlass bearing and shaft log. I am refereing to the bearing in the stern tube, where the prop shaft enters the sea. In my

Hi Allan, my love affair with CRC/WD40 began 15 years ago on a previous boat. A salt water hose burst and liberally dosed the alternator with floods of salt water. Understandably it objected and

It might be old age catching up with me, but i think i recall seeing a post about the fact that the heat exchanger on this generator is electrically isolated from the grounding of the generator. . I

I use Lanolin, if its good enough for baby bums, it's good enough for electrical connections. Bob Minaxi sm6

From experience with a previous boat: I found that starting the engine repeatedly with a battery that is not fully charged or has too low cranking amps can cause the solenoid to stick and

Hi Danny, I understand what you are saying here, but I would NEVER use WD40 on anything that I wanted not to corrode. WD40 might be fine at dispersing the water initially , but its chemical makeup

I had a similar problem this week. the engine upon starting made a funy noise for a few seconds on thetrip to he caribbean the engine would not start, we eplaced the ignition sritchm,'and the valeo

Hi again, the WD40/ CRC is prevention rather than cure, regular use stops the problems arising. When you have the problem it is a case of find, remove, clean, reassemble. regards Danny SM 299 Ocean

Hi to all, Thanks K Mike and Danny for your suggestions about. Normally it works ( W40 ) but my decision is to avoid any dangerous situation : When you need the engine it must start, always. Two

http://www.passagemaker.com/articles/trawler-news/government-trawler-news/lite-composite-gas-tanks-recalled-company-insolvent/ Got this URL from a friend, thought it could be useful info for mainly

Got it, thanks Richard. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi All, these sort of problems arise from corrosion in our salt laden atmosphere, any electrical connection is vulnerable. The answer is to liberally and regularly spray all connections, alternators

Hi Kent I think that what is going on is when you use the two spare halyards you need to take very good care not to WRAP the horns. Sometimes it takes a bit of doing to get them on the "front" side so

Thanks Trevor. Guess I've been lucky so far ... Will start paying more attention when I reef the jib. Kent [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Kent, It happens fairly frequently when you have an extra halyard fitted to the mast head if you don't pay attention to the halyard it can get caught in behind the bars or "horns" as

I had to repair on the Yanmar 4JH4HTE due to a small pin hole on the weld. I noticed it when I rebuilt the turbocharger. I have <900 hrs on the engine. I repaired the unit with JB Weld HighHeat expoxy

I have now had 3 new bars constructed for my SM. The last 2 done in the last couple of days. The problem for us has been going "off the original Amel design". We had a special bracket made for the

Kent, The answer is that I should have made a new one as original and not had a ss screw welded on the old one. Doing that now Cheers, Ric Gottschalk Kitchen Magic Refacers, Inc Office

I wonder why so many problems? Sounds like something's not right with the way it's set up??? Has anyone else had these issues? Joel, any ideas? I've not heard of anyone having this

Had one bar where threaded end broke. Was fixed several times by welding (even before noon when they begin island drinking). Last time it broke, the double nuts chewed up 3" of upper foil. I like to