Looks awesome! I wrote to them and asked about a kit for the SM .. Their reply was that "there are different sizes" so I needed to send measurements ... I didn't think this was the case. May I ask

Ken, Perhaps something you already did but just in case, were you able to visualize water going through the bolt? Now that you have it stripped down the rub rail you can put some water outside and

I do some services New elbow, cleaning the heat exchanger and turbo etc. My question what to do, if anything with the Stainless steel muffler? I have seen that some have had corrosion dammage is that

Ken, You probably are aware of the fact that the copper pipe vent for the fuel tank is above the area where you have a leak, and this copper vent pipe will create more water than you may realize

Hi Ken, did you consider Butyl tape as a sealant? Many prefer it to seal hatches, it stays tacky for years and years and you can easily remove it if needed. Regards, Ruslan. --

For reattaching the interior https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Hi-Strength-90-Spray-Adhesive/?N=5002385+3293242219&rt=rud Here is a video doing something similar on a

Thanks to all you Amelians for helping me through this mess! I think I have a good procedure for the repair now. But as aways, subject to change once I get into job. It looks as though it should

Hi Tom and Kirstin, We did our wheel with a kit from Boat Leather in 2017. How you are holding it in the pic is exactly how we did it. I sewed the cover up to where it meets the spoke cover, pulled

Ken, My boat is a 1987 Maramu so consider this information general in nature to your situation. I would suggest that you start by removing one bolt to see what kind of sealant was used

Hi David, What you are referring to as Barge cement sounds exactly like Contact cement is applied. My shoemaker uses contact cement. It is also used to adhere laminates such as Formica to

Hi Ken, I’d second Eric’s suggestion to use 4200 (or Sikaflex 291), 5200 is primarily an adhesive, not really needed in your application, additionally they are more flexible than 5200 thus less

Hi Ken. Sounds like a good plan. I have found that 5200 on the threads doesn’t present any great difficult in removing the hardware down the road if needed. The greater challenge is avoiding

Hi Ken, Thanks for the photos. I would prefer to use 4200 over 5200. 5200 is very permanent. Is there a reason you want to use a strong adhesive versus a strong sealant? The bolts are doing the

Hi Erik, Here are some photos of the job at hand! I talked with some local boaties here at Krabi Boat Lagoon, and they suggested 5200. It has been raining for 5 days straight, and looks like it will

Hi Ken Do you have any photos? Fair Winds Eric Sm 376 Kimberlite

Hello All, I pulled the rub rail up from aft to the chainplate, and now can see the nuts. Does anyone have a procedure how to reseal the chainplate bolt holes? Should I remove the entire chainplate,

So, with eyes wide open from the mixed reviews we've heard on this site and from non-Amel friends (yes, we have a few) we bought the boat leather.com kit. Truth be told, it fits perfectly. The only

Hello Paul, Thanks for the response. Are there nuts under the rub rail, because the bolt heads are in the closet? Or, are the bolts threaded into the chainplate somehow? Other questions... There

Thanks very much Bill. Absolutely under stand the pressure he will be under Best

John, I spoke to Jimmy Cornell. He has no time to do it before he departs on his next circumnavigation. He and I discussed him doing a Pacific Crossing ZOOM while he is actually crossing the