Date   

Re: shaft brake too loose

rossirossix4
 

Just a couple of things on failing shaft brakes.  The bolt adjustment  on the hydraulic piston adjust tension but not length of throw so even if you give it maximum tension its throw is not long enough to effectively apply the brake pads.  Before tapping and adding an adjustment bolt I would check 2 things.  FIRST, after removing the caliper device see if there is lateral play or looseness.  There is a good chance that the thick aluminum pin (which is fixed in the unit) has worn.  Mine was severely worn and deformed and I had a machine shop replace it--they made it out of aluminum which might not be optimal for future wear BUT it can be easily removed, inspeced and greased which would minimize future wear.  I think greasing it periodically will be important.  There may also be wear at the base of that pin which can be corrected if you have a machine shop account for that when they produce a new pin.  Also, the holes that the pin goes through can be elongated and again, a machine shop can bore those out and match them with the pin they produce. Washers can also be fitted to compensate for wear.  SECOND, take a look at where the hydraulic piston meets the caliper level.  Chances are that there is a divot that has been worn by the hydraulic pin (mine had 2--an initial wear area and a divot next to that that occured when it had been operating in a misaligned position.  I just had an aluminum welder fill the divot in.  He tried not to charge me but I gave him $20.  Regarding adjustment for wearing pads there is enough movement in the calipers to compensate for that BUT only if you have an aligned caliper device which is not worn.
Bob   KAIMI SM429


Re: shaft brake too loose

Scott SV Tengah
 

Hi Stefan,

We have a newly discovered leak on our piston seal and I noticed you replaced it? Was it an easy job and where did you purchase the shaft seal?

Thanks!

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: spreader level during standing rigging procedure

 

Mike, yes. 

You should download this Amel Book Supplement File from the cloud:
U-Bolt with Nylock Nut & Spreader Insulator.pdf

In addition to the Amel Book, there are over 1000 Amel Book Supplement Files available to Amel Book subscribers.

Go to this page and agree to the Terms and download the above file. 

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
Not affiliated or associated with Chantier Amel, La Rochelle, France


On Sat, May 13, 2023 at 6:41 PM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:
Hi everyone,

I have a somewhat related question about the spreaders. Should there be some sort of insulator between the stainless rigging wires and the spreader ends? Maybe a nylon plate or strong hose? There are nylon washers on the fasteners, but none between the rigging wire. There's some noticeable corrosion and paint leaving the area. Maybe that's just how it is for this type of connection? Thanks for any help or insight.

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ 

On Sun, May 14, 2023, 7:09 AM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:
Hi again Eric, just responding to Mikes remark "hope its not too late in the tuning process..."
It is possible to correct the angle after the rig is tensioned. A rigger left mine improperly angled. I went up in the bosuns chair and with a mate standing at the back of the boat I tapped the spreader tip upwards with a rubber mallet until it bisected the angle of the stay and both spreaders had the same aspect. A practiced eye can be very effective. Test yours by looking around yachts anchored near you looking at the spreader angles. Any not properly angled stand out. 
Kind regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 13/05/2023 17:53 NZST Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:
 
 
Hi Eric,
 
Amel does it by attaching the top shroud at the top, then laying it along the mast and putting a mark on it right at the bottom of the spreader hex nut. This mark is where the outside end u-bolts of the spreader go. Both spreaders are done this way. It is an upward angle so the spreader gets straight compression load only. Secure the intermediate shrouds at the spreader end only after the rig is tuned.
 
This is per Olivier's instructions and the way Amel does it when the masts are stepped. Not sure if it's unique to Amel or not. Hopefully it helps and is not too late in your tuning process to be useful.
 
Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ


On Sat, May 13, 2023, 5:10 AM EricOpdeweegh <sv.abayomi@...> wrote:
Dear Amelians, 

We have stepped down our masts this winter to accomodate a full bottom job during indoor storage , 
During stepp down we marked the positions of the spreaders on the shrouds.
However we did not check the exact level position of the spreaders. 
Now that we have placed back the masts we are in the process of tuning the standing rigging and the question arrised what is the correct level position of the top spreaders and the bottom spreaders?
The markings we placed before stepp down show the spreaders in a slight upwards position. Sure not horizontal. The rigging was replaced by the previous owner and the riggers he used may not have placed the spreaders in the right place.....

Question : Should the spreaders not be placed exactly 90 degrees to the mast(s) ???
Who can confirm the correct angle of the spreaders to the mast 90?(perpendicular) or slightly upwards, 110? 

Appreciate the knowledge of the Amel rigger specialists:) 

Best Regards and Fair Winds
Getting ready to cast off and live the dream

Els en Eric Opdeweegh
sv Abayomi
Rhoon, The Netherlands
SM 158
www.svabayomi.nl
email sv.abayomi@...



 

 


Re: B&G MHU213 Wind Sensor

Alexander Hofmann
 

Dear Dean,

 

thanks for your detailed answer. Some short remarks.

 

Your transducer (speed Airmar UDST800 in N2K and wind CV7-STBG universal) are interesting, if you use them, let me and us know about your experience, too.

 

Good topic you raise, what to do when the N2K system would fail. I think (or hope) that this is less likely than one of the complex electronic parts like Main processor, Graphic Display or Zeus3 would do. But you never know …

 

In my system the old NMEA 0186 connections to Furuno are untouched and not dis-mounted. As I said, I did install N2K where it was possible. I will check if I have the wind info in the Furuno system if N2K would fail.

 

Also I run OpenCPN with a good GPS-Mouse, completely independent from the other systems. Now I have a Multiplexer installed, which will give me the change to get all nav infos into OpenCPN. This would be a ‘double securité’ route. To be checked also.

 

And – if all fails – I do correspond with my green and red wind wool line on the side stays telling me where the wind comes from, and my hand anemometer perhaps, setting a conservative sail set and continue sailing …

But for sure, especially in rough conditions, it is much better to have all the wind information!

 

So thanks for your remarks, help me to check and maybe further improve in cases that I did not yet think about. Good to stay in touch.

 

All the best,

Alexander, SY Oceanica I, Amel54#156


Re: spreader level during standing rigging procedure

EricOpdeweegh
 

Hi Mike,

 

Thank you for your advise. We have been very busy the last few weeks so little time to follow the forom

I think this is the best solution I have received after my question.

 

 

 

Eric Opdeweegh

Sv Abayomi

Super Maramu SM 158

Rhoon, The Netherlands

Phone  +31621240217

Email     sv.abayomi@...

Web      www.svabayomi.nl

 

 

 

Van: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Namens Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
Verzonden: zaterdag 13 mei 2023 07:54
Aan: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Onderwerp: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] spreader level during standing rigging procedure

 

Hi Eric,

 

Amel does it by attaching the top shroud at the top, then laying it along the mast and putting a mark on it right at the bottom of the spreader hex nut. This mark is where the outside end u-bolts of the spreader go. Both spreaders are done this way. It is an upward angle so the spreader gets straight compression load only. Secure the intermediate shrouds at the spreader end only after the rig is tuned.

 

This is per Olivier's instructions and the way Amel does it when the masts are stepped. Not sure if it's unique to Amel or not. Hopefully it helps and is not too late in your tuning process to be useful.

 

Cheers,

Mike Longcor

SV Trilogy SM23

NZ

 

On Sat, May 13, 2023, 5:10 AM EricOpdeweegh <sv.abayomi@...> wrote:

Dear Amelians, 

We have stepped down our masts this winter to accomodate a full bottom job during indoor storage , 
During stepp down we marked the positions of the spreaders on the shrouds.
However we did not check the exact level position of the spreaders. 
Now that we have placed back the masts we are in the process of tuning the standing rigging and the question arrised what is the correct level position of the top spreaders and the bottom spreaders?
The markings we placed before stepp down show the spreaders in a slight upwards position. Sure not horizontal. The rigging was replaced by the previous owner and the riggers he used may not have placed the spreaders in the right place.....

Question : Should the spreaders not be placed exactly 90 degrees to the mast(s) ???
Who can confirm the correct angle of the spreaders to the mast 90?(perpendicular) or slightly upwards, 110? 

Appreciate the knowledge of the Amel rigger specialists:) 

Best Regards and Fair Winds
Getting ready to cast off and live the dream

Els en Eric Opdeweegh
sv Abayomi
Rhoon, The Netherlands
SM 158
www.svabayomi.nl
email sv.abayomi@...



Re: Aluminum vs Iron C-drives for the Amel SuperMaramu

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hi Tom,

Correct. That yellow/green wire is the bonding wire. It should have continuity to the larger yellow/green wire that attaches to the rudder stock. The angle iron frame, C-drive, and engine block are essentially one unit as far as bonding is concerned, but there may be additional wires for each (as well as to any other metal parts in contact with salt water, like the stainless muffler).

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ

On Mon, May 29, 2023, 1:04 PM Thomas Margraf <wanambi2012@...> wrote:


Hi Mike,

is this yellow/green cable the conection to the anodes?

Sorry for the stupid question, my preowner told me that he had no idea how the Amel system connecting all to the anodes works. I found this cable loosen near the (changed) engine and was confused.

--
So long
Tom

Wanambi
SM #012
http://www.wanambi.com


Re: Pinhole leak in Onan exhaust elbow

Nick Newington
 

Hi Scott,
Given how little you use the genset, you could probably have it welded.
I would take it off and give it a good clean and inspect it….

Nick
S/Y Amelia
AML54-019
Turkey

On 29 May 2023, at 01:31, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:


Thanks Bill! I will reach out to him.



On Mon, May 29, 2023, 09:06 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
What you need is stainless steel casted from HDI Marine. It appears they only have a single Onan Exhaust Elbow for $190, less discount (https://hdimarine.net/?product=prv)

It is worth contacting 
Hailey Wilkerson
Director of Marketing
HDI Marine Ltd
hdimarine.net
971-255-9139
hailey@... 


Let me know if she says that they are going to make this elbow. BTW, they started casting one elbow for a Yanmar. They now have inventory for over about 100 marine elbows.

Bill



CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
Not affiliated or associated with Chantier Amel, La Rochelle, France

On Sun, May 28, 2023 at 3:33 PM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
I have a tiny pinhole leak in my Onan 11kw genset and am looking for a replacement elbow part # 155-3261-02. Quite frustrating as we barely use ours and flush with fresh water during periods of non-use, but apparently these parts fail on a schedule, regardless of usage.

I see that for many exhaust mixing elbows, aftermarket providers can provide stainless, higher quality version.

Has anyone sourced a non-OEM, better version for the referenced part number? 

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Pinhole leak in Onan exhaust elbow

 

Scott,

Reach out to her.

Bill


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
Not affiliated or associated with Chantier Amel, La Rochelle, France


On Sun, May 28, 2023 at 5:31 PM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Thanks Bill! I will reach out to him.



On Mon, May 29, 2023, 09:06 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
What you need is stainless steel casted from HDI Marine. It appears they only have a single Onan Exhaust Elbow for $190, less discount (https://hdimarine.net/?product=prv)

It is worth contacting 
Hailey Wilkerson
Director of Marketing
HDI Marine Ltd
hdimarine.net
971-255-9139
hailey@... 


Let me know if she says that they are going to make this elbow. BTW, they started casting one elbow for a Yanmar. They now have inventory for over about 100 marine elbows.

Bill



CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
Not affiliated or associated with Chantier Amel, La Rochelle, France

On Sun, May 28, 2023 at 3:33 PM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
I have a tiny pinhole leak in my Onan 11kw genset and am looking for a replacement elbow part # 155-3261-02. Quite frustrating as we barely use ours and flush with fresh water during periods of non-use, but apparently these parts fail on a schedule, regardless of usage.

I see that for many exhaust mixing elbows, aftermarket providers can provide stainless, higher quality version.

Has anyone sourced a non-OEM, better version for the referenced part number? 

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Aluminum vs Iron C-drives for the Amel SuperMaramu

Thomas Margraf
 

Helen and Kosta,

first of all, I would be glad get your "old" C-drive. Maybe we can arrange a transport to Germany.

What was your problem with the C-Drive?
--
So long
Tom

Wanambi
SM #012
http://www.wanambi.com


Re: Aluminum vs Iron C-drives for the Amel SuperMaramu

Thomas Margraf
 



Hi Mike,

is this yellow/green cable the conection to the anodes?

Sorry for the stupid question, my preowner told me that he had no idea how the Amel system connecting all to the anodes works. I found this cable loosen near the (changed) engine and was confused.

--
So long
Tom

Wanambi
SM #012
http://www.wanambi.com


Re: Pinhole leak in Onan exhaust elbow

Scott SV Tengah
 

Thanks Bill! I will reach out to him.



On Mon, May 29, 2023, 09:06 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
What you need is stainless steel casted from HDI Marine. It appears they only have a single Onan Exhaust Elbow for $190, less discount (https://hdimarine.net/?product=prv)

It is worth contacting 
Hailey Wilkerson
Director of Marketing
HDI Marine Ltd
hdimarine.net
971-255-9139
hailey@... 


Let me know if she says that they are going to make this elbow. BTW, they started casting one elbow for a Yanmar. They now have inventory for over about 100 marine elbows.

Bill



CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
Not affiliated or associated with Chantier Amel, La Rochelle, France

On Sun, May 28, 2023 at 3:33 PM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
I have a tiny pinhole leak in my Onan 11kw genset and am looking for a replacement elbow part # 155-3261-02. Quite frustrating as we barely use ours and flush with fresh water during periods of non-use, but apparently these parts fail on a schedule, regardless of usage.

I see that for many exhaust mixing elbows, aftermarket providers can provide stainless, higher quality version.

Has anyone sourced a non-OEM, better version for the referenced part number? 

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Pinhole leak in Onan exhaust elbow

 

What you need is stainless steel casted from HDI Marine. It appears they only have a single Onan Exhaust Elbow for $190, less discount (https://hdimarine.net/?product=prv)

It is worth contacting 
Hailey Wilkerson
Director of Marketing
HDI Marine Ltd
hdimarine.net
971-255-9139
hailey@... 


Let me know if she says that they are going to make this elbow. BTW, they started casting one elbow for a Yanmar. They now have inventory for over about 100 marine elbows.

Bill



CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
Not affiliated or associated with Chantier Amel, La Rochelle, France

On Sun, May 28, 2023 at 3:33 PM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
I have a tiny pinhole leak in my Onan 11kw genset and am looking for a replacement elbow part # 155-3261-02. Quite frustrating as we barely use ours and flush with fresh water during periods of non-use, but apparently these parts fail on a schedule, regardless of usage.

I see that for many exhaust mixing elbows, aftermarket providers can provide stainless, higher quality version.

Has anyone sourced a non-OEM, better version for the referenced part number? 

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Pinhole leak in Onan exhaust elbow

Scott SV Tengah
 

I have a tiny pinhole leak in my Onan 11kw genset and am looking for a replacement elbow part # 155-3261-02. Quite frustrating as we barely use ours and flush with fresh water during periods of non-use, but apparently these parts fail on a schedule, regardless of usage.

I see that for many exhaust mixing elbows, aftermarket providers can provide stainless, higher quality version.

Has anyone sourced a non-OEM, better version for the referenced part number? 

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Time to say goodbye - Alex Uster

Peter Forbes
 

Farewell Alexander - it has been good to know you.

With best wishes

Peter
Peter Forbes

On Fri, 12 May 2023 at 23:05, Alexandre Uster von Baar via groups.io <uster=rocketmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Almost 6 years since Nikimat (SM2K #289) was destroyed during Hurricane Irma in Sint Maarten. 

Less and less I read the forum questions, even less frequently I reply - as I am leaving the island, the time has come to turn the page and leave the forum as well - (if the Dictator can remove me).  


They are still a few parts left, they are in Sint Maarten now with the new owner of my townhouse (the most valuable are the injectors for the Volvo TMD 22P).  


At some point, the illustrations will be removed from http://nikimat.com




Therefore, THEY WILL REMAIN on http://supermaramu2000.com





I hope they will continue to help (of course there is no use of the pictures for commercial, profit, etc. purpose).  


I have enjoyed meeting many of you, hope we keep in touch and meet some of the people I haven’t.  

Sincerely, Alexandre

--
Best wishes
Peter Forbes
+44 (0) 7836 209730


Re: Fuel Stop Control Solenoid for Perkins M60

Ron Wietzke
 

Hi Phil
Yes a picture of the fuse you change may help.  Thank you.

Regards,
Ron


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Phil Berghmans <phil.berghmans@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2023 07:38 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stop Control Solenoid for Perkins M60
 
Hi Ron,

Glad you made some progress in solving your problem. I must admit I am not an expert on relays so I can't give you an answer. What I can do is send you a picture off the volvo fuse I changed, iff this helps.

Kind regards

Phil


Op zo 28 mei 2023 06:28 schreef Ron Wietzke <rwietzke@...>:
Hi Phil
Thank you for the lead in looking at the ground system.  Starting to look at the grounding system through further tests have proved the solenoid is good and the problem is in one of the Lucas relays mounted on the aft end of the engine. My next question is with the electrical system on the Maramu being 12V are the two 24V Lucas relays mounted on the aft of the engine part of the Amel design or were they items that were used as replacements?    Need to replace one of the Lucas relays and am wondering if it should be replaced with another Lucas 33RA 24V INT or if I should try to source a 12V relay.  

Ron
Rainbow II
Maramu 46 #250
Plymouth, UK

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Phil Berghmans <phil.berghmans@...>
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2023 01:43 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stop Control Solenoid for Perkins M60
 
Hello,

It could be a problem with the ground ,I had the same problem and switched the fuse in the ground off the engine ...(volvo fuse) problem solved. I have the MD 22 which is the perkins prima 50. First I switched the solenoid I didn't  work after the fuse switch change everything worked flawlessly. The solenoid is the push type I believe.

Kind regards

Phil

Op wo 24 mei 2023 07:07 schreef Ron Wietzke <rwietzke@...>:
The engine stop switch for my Perkins M60 does not work.  Through trouble shooting I believe the problem is the Fuel Stop Controle Solenoid.  In trying to buy a replacement Solenoid am asked if I want a 'push type' or a 'pull type'.  Cannot find a valid answer for this choice.  Does anyone know if the Fuel Stop Controle Solenoid for the Perkins M60 is a push type or a pull type?  Thank you for any help you can give with this issue.

Ron
Rainbow II
Maramu 46 #250
Plymouth, UK


Re: Fuel Stop Control Solenoid for Perkins M60

Phil Berghmans
 

Hi Ron,

Glad you made some progress in solving your problem. I must admit I am not an expert on relays so I can't give you an answer. What I can do is send you a picture off the volvo fuse I changed, iff this helps.

Kind regards

Phil


Op zo 28 mei 2023 06:28 schreef Ron Wietzke <rwietzke@...>:

Hi Phil
Thank you for the lead in looking at the ground system.  Starting to look at the grounding system through further tests have proved the solenoid is good and the problem is in one of the Lucas relays mounted on the aft end of the engine. My next question is with the electrical system on the Maramu being 12V are the two 24V Lucas relays mounted on the aft of the engine part of the Amel design or were they items that were used as replacements?    Need to replace one of the Lucas relays and am wondering if it should be replaced with another Lucas 33RA 24V INT or if I should try to source a 12V relay.  

Ron
Rainbow II
Maramu 46 #250
Plymouth, UK

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Phil Berghmans <phil.berghmans@...>
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2023 01:43 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stop Control Solenoid for Perkins M60
 
Hello,

It could be a problem with the ground ,I had the same problem and switched the fuse in the ground off the engine ...(volvo fuse) problem solved. I have the MD 22 which is the perkins prima 50. First I switched the solenoid I didn't  work after the fuse switch change everything worked flawlessly. The solenoid is the push type I believe.

Kind regards

Phil

Op wo 24 mei 2023 07:07 schreef Ron Wietzke <rwietzke@...>:
The engine stop switch for my Perkins M60 does not work.  Through trouble shooting I believe the problem is the Fuel Stop Controle Solenoid.  In trying to buy a replacement Solenoid am asked if I want a 'push type' or a 'pull type'.  Cannot find a valid answer for this choice.  Does anyone know if the Fuel Stop Controle Solenoid for the Perkins M60 is a push type or a pull type?  Thank you for any help you can give with this issue.

Ron
Rainbow II
Maramu 46 #250
Plymouth, UK


Re: Fuel Stop Control Solenoid for Perkins M60

André PETIT
 


Le dim. 28 mai 2023 à 14:09, Ron Wietzke <rwietzke@...> a écrit :


Re: 𝗦𝗠𝘀 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝘀𝗮𝗹𝗲. 𝗣𝗹𝗲𝗮𝘀𝗲 𝗯𝗲 𝗰𝗮𝗿𝗲𝗳𝘂𝗹 𝗮𝘀 𝘁𝗵𝗶𝗻𝗴𝘀 𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝗻𝗼𝘁 𝗮𝗹𝘄𝗮𝘆𝘀 𝗮𝘀 𝘆𝗼𝘂 𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝘁𝗼𝗹𝗱

 

I confirmed that this SM is hull #30.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
Not affiliated or associated with Chantier Amel, La Rochelle, France

On Sat, May 27, 2023 at 7:20 PM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:
Hi Tom,

C drives should be bonded (to rudder zincs) and therefore protected from galvanic and electrolytic corrosion. The rusty iron C-drive in the photo was the result of standing water in the engine room for a prolonged period of time while the boat was on the hard. Primer and paint is good (essential?) for preventing surface rust on things like C-drives and angle irons.

There's 100 things to look out for regarding the C-drive. But the big things are... is it fully secure, sealed, aligned, and properly lubricated?

I've started a new C-drive thread to help Bill's post stay on topic.

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ


On Sun, May 28, 2023, 11:58 AM Thomas Margraf <wanambi2012@...> wrote:
Hi Mike, thanks a lot for this detailed explanation. It looks like the corrosion protection is the main point. My C-Drive doesn't look corroded not in Iron rust nor in aluminum white rust. Is there any other matter to have a look for?
--
So long
Tom

Wanambi
SM #012
http://www.wanambi.com


Re: Aluminum vs Iron C-drives for the Amel SuperMaramu

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

Hi all,

We have the SM 29 of 1990 and had the aluminum original C drive up until a couple of years ago when we decided to replace it as we were having troubles with it . 
We are very happy with the new one which we ordered from Amel , and yes it did cost 20,000€. It had to be custom made as Amel no longer install them in the new boats, that is why it is so expensive.
Originally we thought that we would need to bring specialists from Amel to do the installation…..in the end Maud said that any competent  mechanic could do it. We worked with a mechanic here in Aegina, Greece who was very careful and took his time. As I said we are very happy with it, 3rd year now.
We have the complete aluminum C drive in storage and so if anyone needs some spare parts we would happily part with it for the cost of shipping. The upper part had just come from service, the lower part has not been serviced so I have no idea how much of it is good for parts. We also have the fiberglass part which fits into the lower unit and the original oil tank.
We would be not be able to send anything till October as we have gone sailing for the summer.

Best regards,
Helen and Kosta on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


On 28 May 2023, at 3:07 AM, Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

**Resending this information as it's more appropriate as a new topic**

All,

I own SM#23, 1990. I've learned a lot about the two different C-drives during my ownership. This knowledge comes from Amel, this forum, and things I've learned on my own.
 
Two photos are attached. One is the aluminum C-drive as seen from the engine room. The other photo is the iron C-drive (it is rusty).
 
I asked Amel about the C-drive "retrofitting campaign", thinking SM#23 missed out on a free upgrade to the stronger and redesigned iron C-drive. Here was their response, "AMEL has never launched any retrofit campaign regarding the replacement of your system with iron units. This operation is mainly considered when the aluminum C-drive fails and breaks and that there is no other alternative. The cost of the new system (including Upper and lower C-drive unit) is around 20 000 euros without labor and requires high skilled mechanical engineers to do the work. If the maintenance on your C-drive is correctly performed and if there no sign of dysfunction there is no reason to proceed with a replacement."
 
Besides the material of the gearbox housing being different (aluminum vs iron), there are several other key differences:
 
1. Aluminum C-drives require right-hand propellers. Look at the attached drawings, the first page is aluminum, second page is iron. To better handle the forward thrust of the prop and propshaft, Amel moved the lower bevel gear forward of the vertical bevel gear so it can seat happily on a thrust bearing. This design change reverses the prop shaft rotation from clockwise for aluminum c-drives to counterclockwise for iron c-drives (when looking at the prop from behind).
 
2. Aluminum C-drives want 15W-40 oil, not 80-90 gear oil. Here is what Amel says on the matter, "The recommended oil for the C-drive is 15W40 and you need 8 liters. It is not recommended to use a thicker oil on this system. It is true that there are some confusing discussions about this issue especially on the different social networks."
 
3. The oil drain is on the lower port side of the C-drive, not under the prop shaft like the iron one.
 
4. The prop shaft is 35mm diameter, not 40mm like the iron one. This requires a wear bushing (and o-ring) of different dimensions. It is available from Amel.
 
5. There are prop shaft seals on the lower aluminum gearbox in addition to the 3x lip seals that go on the wear bushing. These additional seals make it tricky to press the wear bushing into place because it creates an airtight cavity. I've used a piece of carefully prepared thin mono fishing line (between the bushing and 3x lip seals) to help the air escape while seating the bronze wear bushing. Gently pull the fishing line out once the bushing is in place. Iron C-drives do not have these additional seals and therefore don't have this issue at all.
 
I asked Amel about normal operating temperatures for the C-drive and this was their response: "We have no exact operating temperature value of the C-drive  but it should be between 60 and 70 °C. There are many parameters to be taken into account when doing a temperature test (for instance the outside T° can influence the result)."
 
I'm sure there are a lot of other differences between the two, but I've only listed things that impact the maintenance and operation of the unit. I hope this information is useful to everyone and clears up any confusion regarding the two types of Amel C-drives.
 
Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
Opua, NZ


Re: Fuel Stop Control Solenoid for Perkins M60

Ron Wietzke
 

Hi Phil
Thank you for the lead in looking at the ground system.  Starting to look at the grounding system through further tests have proved the solenoid is good and the problem is in one of the Lucas relays mounted on the aft end of the engine. My next question is with the electrical system on the Maramu being 12V are the two 24V Lucas relays mounted on the aft of the engine part of the Amel design or were they items that were used as replacements?    Need to replace one of the Lucas relays and am wondering if it should be replaced with another Lucas 33RA 24V INT or if I should try to source a 12V relay.  

Ron
Rainbow II
Maramu 46 #250
Plymouth, UK


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Phil Berghmans <phil.berghmans@...>
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2023 01:43 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stop Control Solenoid for Perkins M60
 
Hello,

It could be a problem with the ground ,I had the same problem and switched the fuse in the ground off the engine ...(volvo fuse) problem solved. I have the MD 22 which is the perkins prima 50. First I switched the solenoid I didn't  work after the fuse switch change everything worked flawlessly. The solenoid is the push type I believe.

Kind regards

Phil

Op wo 24 mei 2023 07:07 schreef Ron Wietzke <rwietzke@...>:
The engine stop switch for my Perkins M60 does not work.  Through trouble shooting I believe the problem is the Fuel Stop Controle Solenoid.  In trying to buy a replacement Solenoid am asked if I want a 'push type' or a 'pull type'.  Cannot find a valid answer for this choice.  Does anyone know if the Fuel Stop Controle Solenoid for the Perkins M60 is a push type or a pull type?  Thank you for any help you can give with this issue.

Ron
Rainbow II
Maramu 46 #250
Plymouth, UK