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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster
Patrick McAneny
Olivier, Removing the thermostat would not change the flow direction of the water and generally just would not be a good idea. The engine would not heat up as quickly,and may not ever rise to the correct temp. ,remember diesel do not like to run cool.Removing the thermostat would not correct your problem, unless you have a bad thermostat,and then it should be replaced ,not removed. Do what you will, but it only takes 15 minutes to remove the heat exchanger and it may just need to be cleaned out,problem solved , if its the seal then order it , problem solved, I would not wait to resolve your issue, but that me.
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Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message----- From: o_ruhlmann@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Tue, Jul 3, 2018 8:21 am Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster Thanks a lot. That does make it clearer.
I will pull out the heat exchanger at the end of the season. I had also heard of people removing the thermostat to force all the cooling water to the heat exchanger and forfait the bypass.
The engine is indeed a Perkins 80T
Olivier
SM Alpha
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
I recall several old posts about "bulging" fiberglass in the area of the struts (and elsewhere) being the embedded carbon steel backing plates having expanded with rust and forcing the fiberglass to "bulge". Not surprising if original bolts removed to replace the struts, allowing water ingress. Similar "bulging" in other areas with backing plates have also been noted. Fiberglass itself, of course, doesn't "bulge". Proper fix is cut out old plate and re-glass (preferably from the back side in the case of the hatch, for cosmetics), not just add exterior plates. Cheers, Craig , SN68 ---In amelyachtowners@..., <brouse@...> wrote : I think that the challenge has been identified. There are so many variables in these common gas struts, that to find one sitting on a shelf would be a miracle. There are some websites that will take you step-by-step through the process of identifying all of the options...BUT, here are some of my notes... In retrospect, I would try 300N...Amel OEM was 400N, but SM engine hatches have a tendency to bulge where these are mounted. 400N = 90 pounds each...300N = 67 pounds each...I think it will work. Best, Bill Rouse
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster
o_ruhlmann@...
Thanks a lot. That does make it clearer. I will pull out the heat exchanger at the end of the season. I had also heard of people removing the thermostat to force all the cooling water to the heat exchanger and forfait the bypass. The engine is indeed a Perkins 80T Olivier SM Alpha
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster
Patrick McAneny
First, you did not post your name , boat or the engine you have , however if you have a Volvo Tmd22 as I do, then this would apply. If you are overheating it would be a good idea to take out your heat exchanger , it may need cleaning and that may be your problem. I had cleaned mine a couple of times ,yet still had over heating. I only now discovered that there is a rubber ring/seal that slides over the tube and seals an opening inside the header tank , that forces the cooling water/antifreeze to flow thru the heat exchanger , rather than some of it to bypass it. That is why it still cooled the water to a point , but as the heat increased with rpms it could not cool it fast enough. I did not know about this seal as it was not on the tube whenever I pulled it out,it had deteriorated and fell apart, I found bits of it in the header tank. So pull the H/E out , if no ring that would be your problem. I also bought new rubber boots for the ends , the original ones were hard and hard to seal. Tip , The boots thru Volvo dealers were $144 each , I determined that my engine is a Perkins M80T and bought two boots from Parts4Engines for $48. for two ,saved $240. , they were more pliable and fit /sealed well, I also bought the seal from them, like $10. Its important that the seal is placed about 1/4 from the aft end so that it contacts with the opening in the header tank and seals it. With a flashlight look inside the tank ,you will see the opening. So check it out , if you have any questions let me know.
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Hope this helps,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message----- From: o_ruhlmann@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Tue, Jul 3, 2018 5:10 am Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster Hello Patrick,
My engine tends to overheat when I go beyond 2000RPM.
Could you point me to the part (sleave) that you are taking about?
Thanks
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Barnacle Buster
This may help:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/Engine%20Repair/
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Curacao www.creampuff.us
From:
amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Hello Patrick,
My engine tends to overheat when I go beyond 2000RPM. Could you point me to the part (sleave) that you are taking about?
Thanks
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Re: Barnacle Buster
o_ruhlmann@...
Hello Patrick, My engine tends to overheat when I go beyond 2000RPM. Could you point me to the part (sleave) that you are taking about? Thanks
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
I think that the challenge has been identified. There are so many variables in these common gas struts, that to find one sitting on a shelf would be a miracle. There are some websites that will take you step-by-step through the process of identifying all of the options...BUT, here are some of my notes... In retrospect, I would try 300N...Amel OEM was 400N, but SM engine hatches have a tendency to bulge where these are mounted. 400N = 90 pounds each...300N = 67 pounds each...I think it will work. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School http://www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Mon, Jul 2, 2018 at 4:26 PM Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Hello Mark, you beat me to it !!!
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But please remember the input from Bill after my post as they are many variable and the specs I have/gave were not complete, therefore it worked then. Sincerely, Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Mon, 7/2/18, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch To: amelyachtowners@... Date: Monday, July 2, 2018, 4:26 PM From the forum: Good memory Kent, I purchased 2 from Bansbach easylift in Florida 321-253-1999 Esteban Contreras estebanc@... A1A1N40-250-608/400N 316L Stainless Steel Meaning a stroke of 250 mm with 608 mm overall 400 NM resistance The stroke is 8 mm The Diameter of the cylinder is 19 mm With 8 mm hinge on each side. Took a few weeks to build They were $125 each (and free shipping). These were the highest standard they are, guaranty for 10.000 opening... They also had a cheaper standard line. Sincerely, Alexandre SM2K #289 NIKIMAT Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico With best regards, Mark Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff www.creampuff.us From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] Sent: Monday, July 2, 2018 3:48 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch I need to replace the gas struts for the engine hatch. I've looked at the forum and found Bill R's note that they are rated at 400 Newton (90 pounds), and I measure the length at 22.5" extended length and a stroke length of 8". The problem is I cannot find a gas strut with bolted connections. They seem to come in clevis and ball joint. Does anyone have a source reference? Thanks, Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
Should have known it was you, Alex. You are the gift that keeps on giving!
Kent
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi, I searched car parts of various makes and models till I found some that fitted. I went around all the car businesses in Noumea to find ours. They've done about 4 years so far and going well. Im sure the same would apply elsewhere. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 03 July 2018 at 07:47 "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
Hi Duane, I am not on my boat for a couple of weeks, but I ordered mine from a company recommended on this forum. Reasonably priced, stainless, quick service and shipping, and fits well. I’m sure you can find the conversation with a bit of searching..
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Kent Robertson Kristy SM243
On Jul 2, 2018, at 3:47 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
I need to replace the gas struts for the engine hatch. I've looked at the forum and found Bill R's note that they are rated at 400 Newton (90 pounds), and I measure the length at 22.5" extended length and a stroke length of 8". The problem is I cannot find a gas strut with bolted connections. They seem to come in clevis and ball joint. Does anyone have a source reference? Thanks, Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
From the forum:
Good memory Kent,
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff www.creampuff.us
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 2, 2018 3:48 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
I need to replace the gas struts for the engine hatch.
I've looked at the forum and found Bill R's note that they are rated at 400 Newton (90 pounds), and I measure the length at 22.5" extended length and a stroke length of 8".
The problem is I cannot find a gas strut with bolted connections. They seem to come in clevis and ball joint.
Does anyone have a source reference?
Thanks, Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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Gas Struts for Engine Hatch
Duane Siegfri
I need to replace the gas struts for the engine hatch. I've looked at the forum and found Bill R's note that they are rated at 400 Newton (90 pounds), and I measure the length at 22.5" extended length and a stroke length of 8". The problem is I cannot find a gas strut with bolted connections. They seem to come in clevis and ball joint. Does anyone have a source reference? Thanks, Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Servicing the GROHE thermostatic shower mixer
Photographs are digital-universal translators. Best, CW Bill Rouse Admiral, Texas Navy Commander Emeritus Amel School http://www.amelschool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
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Re: Servicing the GROHE thermostatic shower mixer
mfmcgovern@...
Hanspeter,
It is a direct answer to the original question posed by David in the post that started the thread: "Does anyone know the trick to opening the GROHE shower mixer for servicing?" That is literally "the trick" to opening the shower mixer then there is no screw at the top. You use a screwdriver to pry it off. Given that this forum is comprised of people from all around the world, many of whom are not native English speakers, I find that posting pictures in addition to text can be very helpful, even for something as "simple" as a water faucet service. Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: GP150 GPS Data Output Fault
Sv Garulfo
Thanks Dean, it’s very useful information; I still need to learn a lot about boat electronics. Yes, my goal is to have a redundant chart plotter / navigation tool and it’ll be a good project to get more familiar with the system. I’ll get started on the practical implementation when we get back to the boat at the end of August and will report back my findings. Fair winds and good luck in getting your GPS fixed Thomad GARULFO A54-122 Curacao
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Re: GP150 GPS Data Output Fault
Hi Thomas, MFD is configured by using the Installation Wizard to output the following NMEA 0183 sentences on NMEA0183 Port 2. (Installation Guide doc from Furuno is quite good). a. BWC/BWR (Bearing/Distance to Active Waypoint) b. GGA (Position Fix) c. HDG (Compass Heading, Deviation and Magnetic Variation) d. HDT (Present True Heading) e. RMB (Waypoint Information) f. RMC (Time, Date, Position, Course, Speed and MagVar), g. VTG (Track and Ground Speed) h. ZDA (UTC Time, Date and Local Timezone) Wiring The Data Port 2 connections from the MFD are available inside the Junction Box behind the instrument console. If your set up is the same as mine, you will find the red and red/white connection wires from the Port 2 output unused, but already connected to a 'chocolate block' (terminal block). Its a trivial matter to connect up in that JB. Wiring diagram in the Furuno MFD installation manual describes the cable details. Interesting question about your WiFi gateway. The simplest way to make the data available externally is from that Port 2 MFD connection, it will output just about everything you could need. However, if you are trying to access data when the MFD is NOT operational then you'll need to source from the Hydra CPU. Assuming your GP-150 is connected to the Hydra CPU (as per my original Amel setup) then the Hydra should echo position and time, as well as providing its native wind data, depth and STW. You will have no heading based information because the PG500 compass is connected to the MFD directly. I understand the Hydra CPU only has one NMEA output, and this is connected to the MFD Port 2 Inputs. You can piggy-back a connection, but for permanent use I would try to find a proper 0183 sharing device (one input - two outputs, I haven't looked but I'm sure they must be available). One problem you might find is that a dead/un-powered MFD may affect the shared output and wont give the fault-tolerance i think you are looking for. In this case you'd need to disconnect the faulty MFD port 2 input connection. (Can be done inside that Junction Box I mentioned). Hope that helps, feel free to email me directly if you want to talk in deeper detail. I've now mapped out the wiring/interconnections of my system on paper, and when I have some time I'll prepare a full system schematic and share it. Cheers Dean SY Stella Amel 54 #154 .
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: GP150 fault - reconfigured
Sv Garulfo
Hi Dean, Many thanks for the detailed explanation! Re point 5, it would be interesting to have the details of the wiring and MFD configuration. On a side note, I will be looking to add a NMEA to WiFi gateway to feed data to phone/tablet apps. Do you have a quick answer for the best wires to get NMEA into that gateway? Ideally GPS/Hydra/AIS data would be available even if/when the navnet isn’t working. Best, Thomas GARULFO A54-122 Curacao
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Servicing the GROHE thermostatic shower mixer [5 Attachments]
hanspeter baettig
Hi Mark unly to understand your service practice on a simple water faucet. On your 2 nd pic you show us the faucet end with your screwdriver in the thread. what is the purpose of that ? Regards Hanspeter Tamango 2 SM16 Von meinem iPhone gesendet
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Re: Servicing the GROHE thermostatic shower mixer
mfmcgovern@...
The aft shower unit in my SM had developed a small leak. I found this thread when researching how to open it up. However, the Grohe shower unit in my SM is a little different from the one in the link that Alan posted. Mine does not have a screw holding the ON/OFF cap in place. It is just pressed on so I had to use a screwdriver to gently pry it off. Upon disassembly I found that the ON/OFF cartridge had cracked. There were some numbers engraved on the cracked cartridge but none of them appeared to be the part number. I used Google images to find the closest visual match. I got lucky and guessed right. The part number for the ON/OFF cartridge for my Grohe shower unit is 45882000. I found them on Amazon for about $20 but they also have them at Home Depot for the same price: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GROHE-Ceramic-Headpart-45882000/204193498.
Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA
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