I recently purchased the G70 chain from Chaineries Limosines, Amel’s provider.  Their catalog gives a rupture strength of 6400 kg for the G40 and 11200 kg for the G70.  That is a 75 percent higher value for the G70.

Mark Pitt

Sabbatical III, SM419

Lanzarote, Canary Islands 

On Aug 27, 2018, at 8:08 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

A small correction:  The difference in strength between galvanized G40 and G70 is not anywhere near a factor of 2, it  is actually more like 20%.  G70 chain is, however, roughly 2X as strong as G30 ("BBB"), so that might be where that number comes from.

According to the data I have, the specified breaking strength for G40 is 16,200 lbs, while for G70 it is 19,800.  Working Load Limits (WLL) is usually specified for these kinds of alloy chains as 1/3 the breaking strength.

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Annapolis, MD, USA

 

Thanks for sharing the experiences.  I think that I will get a couple gallons, light sand and focus on the waterline, bow and rudder.  

My plans are to haul again next hurricane season and then apply a proper two coats at that time, with 3rd coat at waterline and leading edges.

Best regards, Dan & Lori Carlson on SM387, sv BeBe 

 

Dan & Lori,

We use a similar ablative paint, and put on two coats every haul out. In the Caribbean 24 months is pushing it, but it you clean regularly it works.  With ablative paints be sure to clean gently, you do not want to be scrubbing off the paint!

An extra coat within a foot of the waterline, the bow, and the leading edge of the keel, and rudder also help.

I have had excellent experience with Micron66 in the colder waters of San Francisco Bay on my old boat.  We have avoided using it on Harmonie because we regularly end up going places with relatively fresh water (e.g., Florida Rivers, and the upper Chesapeake).  Micron 66 fails in very short order in freshwater. 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Annapolis, MD, USA

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Dan,

 

I slap a couple of coats on whenever I haul. The Micron 66 is ablative and is going to flake off as it is designed to do. Last summer in Grenada, we put three coats on. It had been two and half year since the last haul and the bottom paint was thin.  When we hauled in Curacao (unexpectedly) a couple of months ago, we had them put two coats on after a light sand. We have no issues with growth or barnacles.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Bonaire

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2018 10:51 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Micron 66 Caribbean experience

 

 

Hello Amel owners,  I know from discussions that many of you use Micron 66 bottom paint in the Caribbean. I'm looking for responses from those with specific experience.  I put 2 coats on the bottom of my boat in Nov of 2017 and sailed the eastern Caribbean for 7 months. We hauled in Curacao last June (the bottom was very clean). We go back in November to sail the western Caribbean for the next 7 months with plans to haul again in June of 2019.  Question for those who have done something similar. Do you just scuff the boat and relaunch and only paint every other year? Or do you put a fresh coat on each year while the boat is out and dry? Looking for boaters with actual experience with this scenario.  As an added note, when the water is clean I regularly go for a swim with a scrubber to keep the bottom clean.  I have the idea that we may be in more places in the western Caribben where I might not want to do that as often.  

 

Thanks, Dan and Lori Carlson, SM387, sv BeBe

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

On Aug 27, 2018, at 8:08 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

A small correction:  The difference in strength between galvanized G40 and G70 is not anywhere near a factor of 2, it  is actually more like 20%.  G70 chain is, however, roughly 2X as strong as G30 ("BBB"), so that might be where that number comes from.

According to the data I have, the specified breaking strength for G40 is 16,200 lbs, while for G70 it is 19,800.  Working Load Limits (WLL) is usually specified for these kinds of alloy chains as 1/3 the breaking strength.

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Annapolis, MD, USA

A small correction:  The difference in strength between galvanized G40 and G70 is not anywhere near a factor of 2, it  is actually more like 20%.  G70 chain is, however, roughly 2X as strong as G30 ("BBB"), so that might be where that number comes from.

According to the data I have, the specified breaking strength for G40 is 16,200 lbs, while for G70 it is 19,800.  Working Load Limits (WLL) is usually specified for these kinds of alloy chains as 1/3 the breaking strength.

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Annapolis, MD, USA

On 27 Aug 2018, at 18:00, sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi all,

Some questions about anchor chain:

1. How do Iknow what size it is? Do I measure the internal/external longways diameter of a link?

2. Should I be concerned about a bit of rust - is there a point at which I should know it needs replacing?

3. What is the best type of chain available in the WIndwards/Leewards to replace it with?

Cheers,

Paul

Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 

Right or wrong,good or bad, I went ahead and ran it in our fresh/brackish Sassafras River. After three years idle all went well , no leaks but I never went above 140 Lt/hr. and no where near the green zone. My low pressure gauge has never worked , it could be because I installed the system and did something wrong. Am I correct in assuming the LP pump must be working ,otherwise I would not be able to produce water ? I ran it six months like that and always got up to 160/hr. Any hints why the gauge may not be working.

Thanks,

Pat

SM123

-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Aug 25, 2018 2:28 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker and transmission fluid

 

PS: A little more reading on Filmtec was interesting in that their BW and FW are indeed manufactured to very different specs than the SW, being designed for constant use in those waters.  Less pressure is used and thus energy savings are had. They've even got special membranes for maple syrup!  Who 'da thunk? An extensive technology behind it all well beyond our SW marine membranes (which are happy with BW or FW).

Craig 

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote

Hi Gary,

Yes, the reply Alan got from Dessaltator sounds very much like the reply I got from Alden Barbour that you can only use sea water to cool your refrig. At least they were straightforward enough to say that's because of the remote possibility of the freon line breaking into your water tank and you might sue them, not for any engineering reason.

The U-Tube link you gave in your post is the one I noted earlier of Rich Boren of Cruise RO saying there's no problem running your watermaker in fresh water, just keep the pressure down. So, he says, go ahead and sail the brackish Chesapeake or fresh Great Lakes and clean with fresh. Combine that with the Filmtec letter saying no problem and it's pretty clear Dessalator is simply in PYA mode. 

It would be interesting to see if Filmtec would supply an explanation of any technical difference in their membranes designated for salt/brackish/fresh water membranes? It sounds like marketing, not engineering, or, possibly, the BW and FW membranes are engineered such that they will pass salts but not bacteria so one could use  the SW in BW or FW but not vice versa, but I'm just guessing on that. 

Cheers, Craig SN68

---In amelyac htowners@..., wrote :

I find that reply from Dessalator quite intriguing.  I cannot speak to that statement exactly, because my watermaker was 'hybridized' some time ago and is not purely Dessalator any more but here is one possibility why they (Dessalator) would be so adamant about fresh water usage. 

Even though the the membrane(s) are fine pushing low volumes of fresh water through them when rinsing or even when doing the "double-RO" function, it is not what they were designed for.  The membranes from Filmetch come in specific version for salt water, brackish water and fresh water.  The one I have installed is definitely bred for saltwater (Model SW30-2540).  The SW actually stands for Sea Water.  There are BW (Brackish Water, TW (freshwater or Tap Water) and a couple of others I think (a nano-filter and a low energy usage membrane). 

At any rate, the SW30-2540 membrane is indeed technically designed for Sea Water so I get where Dessalator is coming from.  However, talking with two different water maker experts (Cruise RO and Dessalator Malta) and coupled with my own experience I will say that testing and backflushing with filtered fresh water, even running the high pressure pump to provide a testable water sample would not cause harm. As mentioned, don't let the flow go high, as fresh water will pass cleanly through the membrane at much lower pressure). 

I would not, however, use the watermaker in fresh or brackish water for the long term without swapping to a purpose-designed membrane for it. 

Here's a brief video on the subject.  ... https://youtu.be/Ht2B3lpFbdQ 

There you have an "official" 2 cents worth :)

Gary W.

s/v Adagio

Malta