On 11 Sep 2022, at 05:50, David Vogel <david.vogel@...> wrote:

Hi all,

We are measuring up for new sails, but the existing sails are off the boat. The questions arises, what is the correct diameter/size of the bolt-rope?

Does anyone have this as a measurement / specification from recently purchased sails, or be able to measure from their own SM?

Thank you.

David
SM#396, Perigee

Am 10.09.2022 um 15:51 schrieb Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>:

Hi Ulrich, 

I am in Lakki for a few days. Amelia launched yesterday. Doing a few jobs then sailing to Kos Wednesday 14th as my wife is arriving.

Let’s get together.

Nick

On 11 Aug 2022, at 13:27, Ulrich Michael Dangelmeyer <ulrich.dangelmeyer@...> wrote:



Hi Nick 

Sounds good, I’ll there from 3rd september.

So if you are in Lakki give me a mail or WhatsApp and we’ll meet. Great pleasure. I have lot of questions on your journey to TR. Your experience is very much appreciated 👏🌞

Best

Ulrich 

Am 11.08.2022 um 12:12 schrieb Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>:

Hi Ulrich,

I do not want to change the mizzen backstays as they were new in 2017. I just want to buy a s/s clamp to fix the SSB feed wire to the isolated backstay.

I will be arriving in Leros September 8 and launching September 9 from Moor and Dock in Partheni. Then I will head down to Lakki for a few days and on to Kos where my wife arrives Sept 15. We will stay in Dodecanese until we clear out of Greece for Turkey probably from Simi and into Bozburum.

Will you be in Leros on or around Sept 10?

Kind regards

Nick

Amelia AML 54-019

On 11 Aug 2022, at 10:58, Ulrich Michael Dangelmeyer <ulrich.dangelmeyer@...> wrote:

Hi Nick,

in spring I made an overall check about my rigg and to be sure on "Soleil Bleu“, and we are with the „advanced“ A54 rigg.

I measured all my stays, and shrouds with a slide gauge and I remember the mizzen backstays are 8 mm.

Also all wires are in stronger diameter than the early 54´s, so we are lucky with the advanced dimensions from ACMO.

To be sure for you I would always take the bigger ones in doubt or to get in touch with ACMO.

Just my one cent.

Where in Leros you are? currently on the hard? Artemis or Evros Marina? We are in September back in Evros marina.

Would be nice to meet you..

Best and stay safe

Ulrich.

„Soleil Bleu“ / A54#088

+++

Am 11.08.2022 um 10:57 schrieb Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>:

Thanks very much. That is why I was not sure if it was 6 or 8mm because its between the two….

Nick

On 11 Aug 2022, at 09:55, Dominique Sery via groups.io <dominiquesery@...> wrote:

Nick,

On my 54 (#16), it’s 7 mm for each backstay.

Dominique

On 11 Aug 2022, at 13:27, Ulrich Michael Dangelmeyer <ulrich.dangelmeyer@...> wrote:



Hi Nick 

Sounds good, I’ll there from 3rd september.

So if you are in Lakki give me a mail or WhatsApp and we’ll meet. Great pleasure. I have lot of questions on your journey to TR. Your experience is very much appreciated 👏🌞

Best

Ulrich 

Am 11.08.2022 um 12:12 schrieb Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>:

Hi Ulrich,

I do not want to change the mizzen backstays as they were new in 2017. I just want to buy a s/s clamp to fix the SSB feed wire to the isolated backstay.

I will be arriving in Leros September 8 and launching September 9 from Moor and Dock in Partheni. Then I will head down to Lakki for a few days and on to Kos where my wife arrives Sept 15. We will stay in Dodecanese until we clear out of Greece for Turkey probably from Simi and into Bozburum.

Will you be in Leros on or around Sept 10?

Kind regards

Nick

Amelia AML 54-019

On 11 Aug 2022, at 10:58, Ulrich Michael Dangelmeyer <ulrich.dangelmeyer@...> wrote:

Hi Nick,

in spring I made an overall check about my rigg and to be sure on "Soleil Bleu“, and we are with the „advanced“ A54 rigg.

I measured all my stays, and shrouds with a slide gauge and I remember the mizzen backstays are 8 mm.

Also all wires are in stronger diameter than the early 54´s, so we are lucky with the advanced dimensions from ACMO.

To be sure for you I would always take the bigger ones in doubt or to get in touch with ACMO.

Just my one cent.

Where in Leros you are? currently on the hard? Artemis or Evros Marina? We are in September back in Evros marina.

Would be nice to meet you..

Best and stay safe

Ulrich.

„Soleil Bleu“ / A54#088

+++

Am 11.08.2022 um 10:57 schrieb Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>:

Thanks very much. That is why I was not sure if it was 6 or 8mm because its between the two….

Nick

On 11 Aug 2022, at 09:55, Dominique Sery via groups.io <dominiquesery@...> wrote:

Nick,

On my 54 (#16), it’s 7 mm for each backstay.

Dominique

On 10/09/2022 10:36 Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:

Danny, Replacing the seal is a very good idea ,the seal is probably a bit cheaper than the motor. Is the instructions in the file section ?

In for a penny,in for a pound,

Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...>
Sent: Fri, Sep 9, 2022 5:18 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing winch

Hi Pat, while you are on the winch job consider separating the electic motor and gearbox from the winch and replacing the lip seal between the motor and the oil filled gearbox. The seal failed on one of mine and the oil got into the motor which became irreparable. Incredibly there was an identical motor available from Lewmar in Auckland NZ, and this for a winch that was 20 years old.  Now that is what I call incredible after sales service. My other winch wasn't leaking but I replaced the seal, a lot cheaper than a motor. I would recommend all owners with boats approaching 20 plus years old consider this preventative maintenance. After consulting the wisdom on this forum I found the task of removing the motor gearbox assembly simple and straightforward. For the one accessed from the port cockpit locker the biggest danger was dropping the very heavy unit on my face as I lay under it undoing the last bolt.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 10/09/2022 08:24 Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:

Bill, Unfortunately I have the slotted heads, There is a plastic sheet separating the base . I am glad you guys all wrote to me ,I was thinking that the five screws down by the motor is what held the winch in place, and they simply passed thru the base. I will try the heating and cooling . But from experience, things that work for guys like you, usually don't work for me, but I will give it a go ! My fall back plan will be to drill the heads off ,rotate the winch slightly and tap the base. 

Enjoy Barbados & Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Sep 9, 2022 3:41 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing winch

Pat,

As Sher describes, the screws are either slotted OR hex head depending on when they were installed.  I have always had very poor luck with a hammer driven impact wrench. When I first serviced these winches on our boat, some of the screws were very stuck.  Alternately heating with a torch then quickly cooling helped break them free, and then a slow and steady torque applied with a PERFECTLY fitting screwdriver bit with a breaker bar got them out. You can try an electric or air driven impact wrench, but you lose a lot of "feel", and in my experience breaking a stuck bolt is more likely with them, as is just rounding out the hex hole in the screw head.

When torquing the screws, work both directions a tiny bit at a time to minimize the chances of breaking the screws, they are pretty big and robust, but it still happens.

In the original assembly from Lewmar, the aluminum baseplate was separated from the bronze center stem with a thin sheet of plastic.  If this is missing or damaged, the galvanic corrosion that occurs makes this whole process a lot harder, and can cause serious damage.  If the plastic piece is missing or not serviceable, you can either cut a new one, or use TefGel, Duralac, or lanolin to electrically isolate the parts.  And, of course, ALWAYS use one of those anti-corrosion products on the stainless screws into aluminum parts!

For anyone who is interested, the centerstem is available as a spare from Lewmar, but the aluminum baseplate is not.  Not a big deal, the baseplate could be easily fabricated locally if it is damaged.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Bridgetown, Barbados

On 10/09/2022 08:24 Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:

Bill, Unfortunately I have the slotted heads, There is a plastic sheet separating the base . I am glad you guys all wrote to me ,I was thinking that the five screws down by the motor is what held the winch in place, and they simply passed thru the base. I will try the heating and cooling . But from experience, things that work for guys like you, usually don't work for me, but I will give it a go ! My fall back plan will be to drill the heads off ,rotate the winch slightly and tap the base. 

Enjoy Barbados & Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Sep 9, 2022 3:41 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing winch

Pat,

As Sher describes, the screws are either slotted OR hex head depending on when they were installed.  I have always had very poor luck with a hammer driven impact wrench. When I first serviced these winches on our boat, some of the screws were very stuck.  Alternately heating with a torch then quickly cooling helped break them free, and then a slow and steady torque applied with a PERFECTLY fitting screwdriver bit with a breaker bar got them out. You can try an electric or air driven impact wrench, but you lose a lot of "feel", and in my experience breaking a stuck bolt is more likely with them, as is just rounding out the hex hole in the screw head.

When torquing the screws, work both directions a tiny bit at a time to minimize the chances of breaking the screws, they are pretty big and robust, but it still happens.

In the original assembly from Lewmar, the aluminum baseplate was separated from the bronze center stem with a thin sheet of plastic.  If this is missing or damaged, the galvanic corrosion that occurs makes this whole process a lot harder, and can cause serious damage.  If the plastic piece is missing or not serviceable, you can either cut a new one, or use TefGel, Duralac, or lanolin to electrically isolate the parts.  And, of course, ALWAYS use one of those anti-corrosion products on the stainless screws into aluminum parts!

For anyone who is interested, the centerstem is available as a spare from Lewmar, but the aluminum baseplate is not.  Not a big deal, the baseplate could be easily fabricated locally if it is damaged.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Bridgetown, Barbados

On 10/09/2022 08:05 Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:

Danny, Your rattle gun sounds like what we call an impact wrench, I have one and could give it a try , but the slotted screw heads are slightly buggered by a previous owner ,I fear the driver would jump out and bugger it more. I would consider drilling the heads off ,but now I just read that the base is tapped ,making that option less appealing .

Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...>
Sent: Fri, Sep 9, 2022 3:40 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing winch

Hi Pat, do you have an impact driver. This is a device that has a range of screw driver ends some much more substantial than your normal screw driver. It has quite a large body with a internal worm. It works by being hit with a hammer and the worm works to apply turning impact tom the screw. The next step up from that is what some call a rattle gun. This is what tyre shops use to undo wheel nuts. You can get screw slot fittings for these. They are very effective and less damaging than alternatives. My tool kit was assembled before the day of everything being driven by lithium batteries so mine operates on compressed air. Lowes would have lithium models, well worth having in the tool kit. They have socket , flat screw driver, Philips screwdriver and hex ends. And as with all difficult nuts bolts and screws, soak in CRC before attack.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 10/09/2022 03:33 Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:

A while ago I asked the group about my Lewmar winch that was unwinding or rotating out a revolution or so when under load,as when on a close reach in moderate to strong conditions. The only suggestions were to clean the winch. I have never been able to get the gears out that are directly above the driveshaft. I want to remove the bronze body of the windlass ,that is attached to the boat with 5 slotted machine screws. I cannot get them to budge ,the screwdriver is as large as can fit . I have a couple of questions, I was trying to hammer up the screw and then I thought I had better ask the group this.
Is the screw threaded thru the metal base beneath the windlass ,if so hammering is not going to work? I will only be able to hammer two of five screws anyway. 
The screws are probably being difficult to remove due to caulk and corrosion , does anyone have a suggestion as to how to remove them? 
Thanks,
Pat

SM Shenanigans