Date   

Re: Fridge circulating pump

Ruslan Osmonov
 

Nick, word of caution, since I installed similar pump from usaolarpumps recently. It is not a self priming pump and another thing is airlocks.  You need to position it in a way that if air bubble to be developed they have natural escape route. This is the one I installed as a backup to my already great brushless pump done by Jamie. 

For the fresh water cooling since the tank is below the pump it might be an issue. I would experiment with the bucket and place pump to approximate hight plus some since we know it won’t be straight line up. Also you need to think of a way to prime the pump easily, if the water goes down and creates a long air gap for various reasons. 
 




--

--
Fair winds
Ruslan Osmonov
Phanthom, A54 #44


Using water tank for fridge cooling circuit

Nick Newington
 

Hi fellow owners,

This is from

PAG Safety Data sheet for compressor lubricant 

1. Toxicological information Information on likely routes of exposure Inhalation May cause damage to organs by inhalation. Prolonged inhalation may be harmful. May cause irritation to the respiratory system. Skin contact Frequent or prolonged contact may defat and dry the skin, leading to discomfort and dermatitis. Eye contact Direct contact with eyes may cause temporary irritation. Ingestion May cause discomfort if swallowed. May be harmful if swallowed. Symptoms related to the physical, chemical and toxicological characteristics Direct contact with eyes may cause temporary irritation.

Clearly it is not to be ingested,  “may cause discomfort if swallowed”  and “May be harmful if swallowed”  but given the very small quantity in the event of a leak, that would float to the top of the tank. I think the risks to health are minimal. There would not be prolonged exposure, as a leak would be immediately noticed…

On balance I really do not think that circulating water from the freshwater tank to cool the fridges is a particularly risky thing to do. There would not be prolonged exposure if one is ready to accept that Cupronickel is non soluble. Something that I am 100% happy to assume. In the event of a break in the condensing circuit, it is possible that refrigerant and some lubricating oil would contaminate the tank, but again I believe it would be noticed immediately and it would be a very small quantity that would then be filtered by the  Seagull filter system for the drinking water.

So the jury is still out as far as I am concerned. I definitely see the convenience of using freshwater rather than continuously circulating sea water and encouraging shell growth….

Nick

S/V Amelia 
AML 54-019
Leros


Using freshwater tank for fridge cooling

Nick Newington
 

I think that the R134A is pretty safe in the event of a leak. It would boil off instantly. The lubricant is another story. Probably a bit like sucking a diesel syphon!

Nick

Amelia 
AML 54-019
Leros



Fridge circulating pump

Nick Newington
 

I bought a micro 12v brushless circulating pump for £12 that has just arrived at home in the U.K.

Back on Amelia, I decided to convert the fridges to freshwater for the period out of the water in the boat yard. In so doing I changed the circulating pump, as the old was getting a bit noisy and hot. Frigomatic self priming pump costs £183….ouch. I am down to my last spare on the boat. So I bought this little
Micro pump for £12. They are used for a number of things but fish tanks is one. As well as solar water collectors. They are supposed to run for tens of thousands of hours. The mount is plastic and the parts in contact with water are also plastic. When I get back to the boat I will install it and report back. It could be a very inexpensive alternative, or maybe not. We shall see.
As for going freshwater, it works perfectly. I am still thinking about the risks to health but in my opinion the cupronickel is insoluble like copper and we all use copper in our domestic plumbing. That risk is close to zero. Actually I believe that the fibreglass tank itself is more likely to shed toxic chemicals. There is a risk of contaminating the freshwater tank in the event of a leak in the condensing unit…I think that the refrigerant itself would just vent out immediately but there would be some lubricating oil…
So yes that is a worry. No free lunch.

Nick (U.K.)
S/V Amelia
AML54-019
Leros


Re: Malta marina to spend the winter

Bruno COTTE
 

And Malta is very close to update your electronics if you want it to be done there 

Envoyé de mon iPhone

Le 22 juil. 2022 à 04:52, Bruno COTTE <cotte.bruno@...> a écrit :

I do prefer Marina di Ragusa in Sicily . Fresh underwater sources in marina and boat perfectly clean after 6 months . Safe and very correct prices . Good électronicien available plus significant sailors community in winter . 

Envoyé de mon iPhone

Le 22 juil. 2022 à 01:45, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> a écrit :


I can recommend Matthew Agius Delicata B.Sc (Hons),
A D Yacht Services, Malta, Mob: +356 99002589 matt@... 
Matt has done some amazing electronic upgrades for Yacht School Clients.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Thu, Jul 21, 2022 at 4:47 PM Jose Alegria <Josealegr@...> wrote:
I would like receive some advices about the best Malta marina to spend the winter and do some maintenance, specially Furuno and B&G electronic upgrades.

Thank you

Good winds

José Alegria
A55#003MERIT
josealegr@...
Mobile: + 351 91 866 30 37



Re: Malta marina to spend the winter

Bruno COTTE
 

I do prefer Marina di Ragusa in Sicily . Fresh underwater sources in marina and boat perfectly clean after 6 months . Safe and very correct prices . Good électronicien available plus significant sailors community in winter . 

Envoyé de mon iPhone

Le 22 juil. 2022 à 01:45, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> a écrit :


I can recommend Matthew Agius Delicata B.Sc (Hons),
A D Yacht Services, Malta, Mob: +356 99002589 matt@... 
Matt has done some amazing electronic upgrades for Yacht School Clients.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Thu, Jul 21, 2022 at 4:47 PM Jose Alegria <Josealegr@...> wrote:
I would like receive some advices about the best Malta marina to spend the winter and do some maintenance, specially Furuno and B&G electronic upgrades.

Thank you

Good winds

José Alegria
A55#003MERIT
josealegr@...
Mobile: + 351 91 866 30 37



Re: Malta marina to spend the winter

 

I can recommend Matthew Agius Delicata B.Sc (Hons),
A D Yacht Services, Malta, Mob: +356 99002589 matt@... 
Matt has done some amazing electronic upgrades for Yacht School Clients.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Thu, Jul 21, 2022 at 4:47 PM Jose Alegria <Josealegr@...> wrote:
I would like receive some advices about the best Malta marina to spend the winter and do some maintenance, specially Furuno and B&G electronic upgrades.

Thank you

Good winds

José Alegria
A55#003MERIT
josealegr@...
Mobile: + 351 91 866 30 37



Malta marina to spend the winter

Jose Alegria
 

I would like receive some advices about the best Malta marina to spend the winter and do some maintenance, specially Furuno and B&G electronic upgrades.

Thank you

Good winds

José Alegria
A55#003MERIT
josealegr@...
Mobile: + 351 91 866 30 37



Re: Found this on deck and don’t know where it came from

Richard Dallett
 

On my A54 they are used to fasten the aft ladder treads on to the ladder.

Richard Dallett A54/68 Mamba


Re: Climma AC fan don't start and/or speed will not change

WASABI - Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Mohammad

Thank you for the explanations. You’re right it’s better to change all Capacitors when the unit is open.

Happy sailing and BR

Ruedi

 

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 20. Juli 2022 um 23:03
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Climma AC fan don't start and/or speed will not change

 

Hi Reudi,

 

The fan not starting is most likely, but not 100% caused by a bad capacitor. In our unit we have 3. I believe 2,10 and 40 microfarads. Not sure which is for which. As a SOP, we just change all 3 capacitors, when one fails from the original set, which is now about 13 years old. We decided to go this route, because we had 3 capacitors fail this season.  one in each unit. The first one was with a Big Bang and smoke in the master cabin. The second was discovered when we saw some hazy smoke in the salon. The third was smell of burning toast from the forward cabin. The smell and smoke is not pleasant and most likely toxic. So for 5 euros each, we figured better to replace all when we have the unit open. You can test the capacitance with a meter to check which one is bad.

 

The fan speed is controlled by a multi step transformer. The command for the transformer comes from the control unit. You need to check and see if the command to the transformer changes, when you change the fan speed. If this is ok, then most likely the controller is ok. You then need to check the output voltage to the fan motor from the transformer . This voltage should change based on the fan setting. The max voltage should be 230V for max fan speed. If this does not occur, then the transformer is bad.

 

The transformer replacement fixed our fan speed issue. I was told by a Veco rep recently that the transformer is no longer made. The new units have everything incorporated into the Electronics board. You may still find some hanging around at some distributors warehouse.

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

A54 #099

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad Shirloo

+1-323-633-2222 Cell

+1-424-644-0908 Fax


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of WASABI - Rudolf Waldispuehl via groups.io <Rudolf@...>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2022 10:39:42 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Climma AC fan don't start and/or speed will not change

 

Hi All,

 

On my A54 - Aft Cabin Climma AC Unit the Fan is not starting and after some attempt I’m able to get it run. Most of time the FAN it is not starting to blow.

I know it could be the Capacitor in the Unit, but I don’t know exactly which one is for the FAN? The control of the FAN Speed is erratic and not changeable.

 

The thermostat and the compressor unit is working and the unit is starting to cool down, but without airflow it does not make much sense.

Has anyone got into same situation and what was the solution?

@ Mohammad, I’m coming back to your treat some years ago; - you changed the capacitor but then there was no fan speed control anymore.

                -What was your findings & outcome after all?

 

Thanks and BR.

Ruedi Waldispuehl

 

SY WASABI

AMEL54 #55

Otranto

 

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Samstag, 7. September 2019 um 17:36
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: [AmelYachtOwners] Climma AC fan speed will not change

 

Hi All;

The aft cabin AC fan speed selection had been working intermittently for a while. Speeds 1,2 and 4 would work fine but sometimes when the selection was changed from 2 to 4 it would not speed up and sometimes when it was turned off and on, the speed would go up to 4. The blower fan stopped working completely a few days ago and we had zero air flow. I changed the blower fan capacitor (the small one 2 microfarad) and the fan started right up, much quicker than before and with a lot more air volume being pumped into the cabin. However, now we have zero fan speed control. It stays at what appears to be maximum fan speed at all settings of 1-4 and automatic.

Any ideas would be appreciated. I do have a spare transformer, controller and wall display unit plus the other 2 capacitors.

Thanks in advance

Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo 
Amel 54 # 099


Re: Another instruction on engine and c-drive mounts and vetus coupling alignment

Raul Schleier
 

Thanks for your input Eric,

Based on the comments and other articles I read on this forum it is now clear to me there are many variations.  Many people report different types and brands of engine mounts and I didn’t know you don’t have to cut the bolts on later models like you describe.  I guess I wouldn’t have had to cut mine either had the coupling not been stuck.  I cut them so that I could pull them out backwards and insert the rods to use as an improvised gear puller (or rather “pusher”).  There was no way I could remove the bolts the way they were mounted on SeaBean with the flexible coupling being stuck.  Glad the design has improved on later models.

I had planned to take my hub to a machine shop too had it not been for a long weekend so I figured I’d give it a go with emery cloth and it turned out to be enough. I’m pretty confident I will get it off quite easily next time having used tef-gel on the shaft.

All the comments just go to show that there are many variations and the only boat I know for sure the document is valid for is SeaBean.

Cheers
Raul - sm2k#344


Re: Climma AC fan don't start and/or speed will not change

Nick Newington
 

Ruedi,
Very often a close examination of the capacitors will reveal which one is defective. It may become misshaped or have a burn mark.
Be careful as a fully charged capacitor can give one a nasty shock. 
From memory the biggest capacitor is the compressor start capacitor 40 microfarad. 
The compressor starts so not that one. Then there is the fan start and run capacitors. Which are smaller. 
Change them…
If that does not solve the problem then you will have fun diagnosing the problem. If it’s the board, good luck finding a new one. The older units have different boards to the new.

Nick
Amelia AML54-019
Leros



On 20 Jul 2022, at 22:03, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:


Hi Reudi,

The fan not starting is most likely, but not 100% caused by a bad capacitor. In our unit we have 3. I believe 2,10 and 40 microfarads. Not sure which is for which. As a SOP, we just change all 3 capacitors, when one fails from the original set, which is now about 13 years old. We decided to go this route, because we had 3 capacitors fail this season.  one in each unit. The first one was with a Big Bang and smoke in the master cabin. The second was discovered when we saw some hazy smoke in the salon. The third was smell of burning toast from the forward cabin. The smell and smoke is not pleasant and most likely toxic. So for 5 euros each, we figured better to replace all when we have the unit open. You can test the capacitance with a meter to check which one is bad.

The fan speed is controlled by a multi step transformer. The command for the transformer comes from the control unit. You need to check and see if the command to the transformer changes, when you change the fan speed. If this is ok, then most likely the controller is ok. You then need to check the output voltage to the fan motor from the transformer . This voltage should change based on the fan setting. The max voltage should be 230V for max fan speed. If this does not occur, then the transformer is bad.

The transformer replacement fixed our fan speed issue. I was told by a Veco rep recently that the transformer is no longer made. The new units have everything incorporated into the Electronics board. You may still find some hanging around at some distributors warehouse.

Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
A54 #099

Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
+1-323-633-2222 Cell
+1-424-644-0908 Fax

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of WASABI - Rudolf Waldispuehl via groups.io <Rudolf@...>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2022 10:39:42 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Climma AC fan don't start and/or speed will not change
 

Hi All,

 

On my A54 - Aft Cabin Climma AC Unit the Fan is not starting and after some attempt I’m able to get it run. Most of time the FAN it is not starting to blow.

I know it could be the Capacitor in the Unit, but I don’t know exactly which one is for the FAN? The control of the FAN Speed is erratic and not changeable.

 

The thermostat and the compressor unit is working and the unit is starting to cool down, but without airflow it does not make much sense.

Has anyone got into same situation and what was the solution?

@ Mohammad, I’m coming back to your treat some years ago; - you changed the capacitor but then there was no fan speed control anymore.

                -What was your findings & outcome after all?

 

Thanks and BR.

Ruedi Waldispuehl

 

SY WASABI

AMEL54 #55

Otranto

 

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Samstag, 7. September 2019 um 17:36
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: [AmelYachtOwners] Climma AC fan speed will not change

 

Hi All;

The aft cabin AC fan speed selection had been working intermittently for a while. Speeds 1,2 and 4 would work fine but sometimes when the selection was changed from 2 to 4 it would not speed up and sometimes when it was turned off and on, the speed would go up to 4. The blower fan stopped working completely a few days ago and we had zero air flow. I changed the blower fan capacitor (the small one 2 microfarad) and the fan started right up, much quicker than before and with a lot more air volume being pumped into the cabin. However, now we have zero fan speed control. It stays at what appears to be maximum fan speed at all settings of 1-4 and automatic.

Any ideas would be appreciated. I do have a spare transformer, controller and wall display unit plus the other 2 capacitors.

Thanks in advance

Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo 
Amel 54 # 099


Re: costs of ongoing R&M

David Vogel
 

Weighing in again ...

The total cost of ownership, including the cost of repairs & maintenance, foreseeable upgrades, and so on, all depends to a large extent on how, and where, you use the boat. No rocket science here.

Whether or not you factor in depreciation (or making provision for the 'big ticket' items, such as replacing the main engine, genset, watermaker, running & standing rigging, and sails), will also factor into your annual provision. For example, the ONAN may cost, say, $5-/hr, direct operating cost to run; but double that if you make provision for replacement. (What is the useful life of the genset? Who knows, but useful 'hint' here, the modified 'DELPHI' technique could be your friend to help you derive your own a ballpark estimate for planning.)

We have been 6 years 'out there', living aboard full-time, following the sun, meaning, in the tropics the whole time, = at least double the UV and heat-related wear-and-tear. Which is a hard life for a boat - sails, running rigging, soft-furnishings and covers, (internals, and the cockpit cushions), ground-tackle, soft-bimini, all in constant use, and the UV degradation has to be seen to be believed. We have hard-covers over the hatch lenses, for both UV and physical protection [https://outlandhatchcovers.com/ - highly recommend - please tell them that those Ozzies Dave & Lenny from svPerigee referred you - no kick-back for us, but like to stay in touch]. Having opaque covers reduces the UV-induced aging of internal wood and fabrics. Nevertheless, full-time live-aboard is hard on the internals - stuff breaks in use, cushions & fabrics wear-out, and so on. Being "out there", especially far from regular dedicated periods for refit, is even more hard of the boat (see more on this below) - and one ignores this basic fact at one's peril.

Including boat & contents insurance (~$10k for 'all risks' cover, or somewhere between 1.5% to 2.5% of the insured value of boat & equipment), and add operating costs to the R&M budget (including the AMEL-specifics over and above regulars such as anti-fouling and so on), plus essential dockage, hard-stand, marina fees. It can add up to somewhere between 10% and 15% of your boat value, as being a not unreasonable first order approximation of the annual cost of boat ownership.

If you find yourself unexpectedly tied up to a dock or on-the-hard for an extended period, you might find yourself up for an additional $1,000- per month. Or save yourself this amount, when you're able to be living free and wild on anchor, as we prefer to do.

BTW, we split out "CREW Costs", such as food & liquor (big one), health, medevac & travel insurance (some of which is mandatory for visas in some countries), shore excursions, lodging & accommodation ashore, and flights & other travel - which, well, it's very much different strokes for different folks on this front, but when we're afloat, it costs the two of us roughly the same as it would for one single person ashore - (current Australian statistics indicate slightly more than $50k per annum for two retirees living a comfortable life; and about $35k for a single). Your mileage may vary.

REFITS - it may help to view refits as a regular routine commitment. I suggest to consider and plan initially that dedicated Repairs & Maintenance (R&M) works programs (aka ‘Refits’) will take 5-10 percent of the time spent cruising away from your usual shore-base.
To explain, in addition to daily R&M chores, I now plan on 2 weeks dedicated to R&M in every 6-month period spent cruising, compounding at 15% per annum if not attended to every 6 months; for example, 5 weeks in 52 wks away; a 3 months refit for 2 years spent cruising without dedicated period of R&M; 5 months within 3 years; 7 months in 4 years; 9 months in 5 years. Block out this interval in your cruising itinerary, and get used to the size of programme you will need to tackle on a regular basis. That is, if you are going to reduce the chances of getting caught out with major unserviceabilities, far away from your home base. The take-way: smaller chunks of regular R&M, done more frequently, is better than waiting and then playing catch-up. Speaking from experience, when our own planned schedule "time off for refurb and R&M" took a year's delay due to COVID, the delay was not spent in a marina or on the hard, we carried-on cruising for another 12 months. In hindsight, we were only able to get away with this relatively comfortably (OK, no running hot water, but hey, we were in the tropics) because we had already invested in ''overstocking" on the spares & consumables (or, so we thought), as well as having invested the time, $$$, and effort to have everything as much as reasonably practicable, in pretty-much top-notch condition, before we set off. Of course, if you you're staying close to home, or with access to familiar trust-worthy supply-lines and reliable service providers (or have a surfeit of willing 'mules'), then you may well be able to ramp down on the spares and preventative-maintenance, being able to accept a move more towards a "use now and pay later" philosophy (aka, after-the-fact repairs).

Best,

David
SM#396, Perigee

PS - The 'Admiral' deemed not to return to Perigee for a winter in NZ, unless the hot water system had been returned to service. Not unreasonable, I thought.


Re: Bronze Gear

Eric Freedman
 

Sorry ,

I thought you were referring to the main gearbox.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Eric Freedman via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2022 7:29 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bronze Gear

 

I think the entire gearbox from Amel is about 800 euros.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Steve Harmon via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2022 8:57 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Bronze Gear

 

Hi Guys, does anyone have a source for the Bronze Gear for the outhaul on the Main? Having one made is $700   SM272


Re: File /Yanmar 4JH3-HTE Alignment Information/Engine and C-Drive and Vetus coupling replacement and re-alignment Rev 1.00.pdf uploaded #file-notice

Eric Freedman
 

Kimberlite also has different mounts.

They are Yanmar mounts on the engine and Vetus mounts on the sail drive.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Alan Leslie
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2022 9:16 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] File /Yanmar 4JH3-HTE Alignment Information/Engine and C-Drive and Vetus coupling replacement and re-alignment Rev 1.00.pdf uploaded #file-notice

 

Thank you very much for your detailed procedure.
We will need to do this at some point...your information is very useful and filed
One thing is interesting ... the type and supplier of mounts seems to be quite different on other boats
Ours for example don't look like yours from memory ...I'm  not on the boat so I can;t confirm
BUT Many thanks for your in depth artiicle
Cheers
Alan
Elyse
SM437


Re: Bronze Gear

Eric Freedman
 

I think the entire gearbox from Amel is about 800 euros.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Steve Harmon via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2022 8:57 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Bronze Gear

 

Hi Guys, does anyone have a source for the Bronze Gear for the outhaul on the Main? Having one made is $700   SM272


Re: Another instruction on engine and c-drive mounts and vetus coupling alignment

Eric Freedman
 

Hello Raul,

That was an amazing job. I just have 2 comments. On later Amel’s such as mine #376 you do not have to cut the bolts to remove them from the coupling.

Of course, you must use threaded rod to replace them.

 

Secondly, I had a machine shop cut a few thousands of an inch out of the center of the disk brake hub. This makes for easier removal in the future , I also applied Never=Seez to the input shaft of the sail drive.

 

About 5 years ago I replaced the donuts in the coupling. Last Spring, I replaced the engine and the disk brake slid off very easily.

 

Again, Great Work !!!

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Raul Schleier
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2022 3:54 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Another instruction on engine and c-drive mounts and vetus coupling alignment

 

Hi All,

I have just replaced my Engine and C-Drive mounts and the rubber doughnuts in the Vetus flexible coupling and then realigned.  I had some local talent replace the engine mounts when we first bought the boat but he screwed up so I decided to tackle the project myself. After reading everything I could find on the subject, the project still scared me but in hindsight turned out not to be too difficult. I documented the process and saved it under the files section here if anyone is interested.  This thread was very useful (among many others).

There’s nothing new in my instruction I just posted that hasn’t already been covered in this forum. Nothing in the process has been invented by me. I just took lots of pictures and tried to explain what I did and what I didn’t know or understand in case it can help someone doing this the first time.  If you’ve already done it, this instruction is probably of no use to you.  The instruction is based on our boat, SM2k#344 with a Yanmar 4JH3-TE and may not be valid for your boat.  Use at your own risk and don’t sue me if it all turns to custard.  Please let me know if you find any factual errors so that I can update the file.

 

 

Cheers
Raul on SeaBean
SM2k#344


Re: Found this on deck and don’t know where it came from

Raul Schleier
 

Mystery solved.  Thanks all for your suggestions, I found I had these nuts in various places that I didn’t know about before being pointed in the right direction.  The missing one turned out to be from the outboard mount.  I’m surprised it fell on deck and not in the water. 


Re: Found this on deck and don’t know where it came from

Jose Venegas
 

My ladder uses them holding the screws of the steps

Jose Gabriel
Ipanema SM2k 278


Re: Black Oil in the Air-filter and housing

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Thanks for the reminder Bill. However I will add one point I had forgotten. Volvo were fixated on the level of oil in the sump. Believed too high a level could be involved. They had their tech come and change the oil, adding the precise measured quantity. Apparently some dip sticks were incorrectly marked. Not so in my case. That was their last shot before they replaced the turbo. Reminder. This was on a Volvo D 2 75. At 1400hrs now and very happy with it.
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

On 21/07/2022 00:50 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Nick & Danny,

You are talking about 2 different engines, Yanmar and Volvo D3.

I will point out that the Volvo D3 has a history of oil in the Turbo because many Amel D3 owners have had to replace the Turbo Boost Sensor that failed because it was saturated with oil.

image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Wed, Jul 20, 2022 at 12:22 AM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:
We got there by a process of elimination and looking for track. There is an
oilfeed to the turbo from the top of the rocker cover. Of course if there was excessive blow past the rings there would be pressure there so that confused the issue for a while. But turbo it was and one of the techs suggested that. As I said before there was push back from volvo but in the end I think they knew this was an issue and accepted  it. The new turbo fixed it and no reoccurance .
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 20/07/2022 16:51 Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:


Hi Danny,
I agree the turbo is a likely possibility. I am wondering how one tests for that; 
Did you find that it only spewed oil when the turbo kicked in?
If so one could check relatively easily.
Nick
S/Y Amelia 
AML54-019 
Leros



On 19 Jul 2022, at 20:44, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi Ruedi, I went down all those paths as Volvo wriggled and squiggled until they admitted it was the seals in the turbo. Just dropping that information again.
Kind Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 19/07/2022 21:29 WASABI - Rudolf Waldispuehl <rudolf@...> wrote:


Hi Nick

I will do the Job next 2 day’s when I’m in a Marina and will observe the result. After 2 weeks I’m happy to let you know the outcome because I will not move the boat until end of month.

Kind regards

Ruedi - on WASABI


Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von "Nick Newington via groups.io" <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Montag, 18. Juli 2022 um 19:32
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Black Oil in the Air-filter and housing


Hi Ruedi,


After reading your email I had a quick look at the workshop manual for my D3 110A. I also had a look around the internet. I just thought that before you go and get an engineer you could do a few things yourself.  The Pressure Control Valve is located in the cap of the oil filter. The idea is that if the filter gets clocked the valve opens and lets the oil circulate freely but without being filtered. 

Trawling the internet, there was a suggestion that clogged oil lines and clogged filter might cause oil in the air filter. Seeing as that is an easy do it yourself, it makes sense to do that job first, not least to rule it out as the problem.. Then if that fails you still need to sail somewhere where there is a decent engineer and you can explain that you have clean oil and filter and cleaned up valve…


Let me know what happens. Great learning process for all of us!


Kind regards


Nick



On 18 Jul 2022, at 18:10, WASABI - Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:


Hi Nick,

Thank you for your advice. I will certainly do an Oil- and Filter change and clean the top cover.

What is the PCV Valve? Is this a specific part of the Oil-Filter top? 

Ruedi



Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von "Nick Newington via groups.io" <ngtnewington@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Montag, 18. Juli 2022 um 17:53
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Black Oil in the Air-filter and housing


Ruedi, another quick thought. Take off the oil filter top and inspect it closely, maybe it is clogged. Could be you just need to give it a thorough clean, maybe in some solvent. Or blast it with compressed air. Then change oil and filter anyway. If this does not solve the problem you have not lost anything but a bit of oil and a filter…do not forget to torque up the filter top to specified level. I use a torque wrench, it is plastic and does not want to be over tightened but if too loose the oil will flow out and make a mess.


Nick




On 18 Jul 2022, at 16:02, Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:


Hi Ruedi, 

I am not a qualified Volvo mechanic either, but  you must be getting some blow back. This could be caused by dirty engine oil clogging the oil lines or filter and/or a leaking Pressure control valve.

I would change the oil and filter and the air filter, and the PCV valve.  I do not think they are expensive. Located on the oil filter cover, opens if the resistance in the filter is too high. It could be stuck open or clogged. 

 

If that does not work you need to have a compression test done by a proper engineer…and get to the bottom of it…

Nick

Amelia AML 55-019 Leros 
<image0.jpeg>




On 18 Jul 2022, at 10:02, WASABI - Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:


Dear Amelia’s

I’m not a Diesel-Engine Mechanic or Engineer and therefore excuse my unqualified question. I have discovered Oil dropping out of the Air-Filter on my Volvo D3-110 iC and I’m not sure if this is something unusual and I have to worry about it? I changed the Air-Filter about a year ago and maybe this happens after several hours of use.

 

Thanks, and fair winds

Ruedi 

WASABI – A54-55

Anchoring in Otranto