|
Re: Fridge circulating pump
Ruslan Osmonov
Nick, word of caution, since I installed similar pump from usaolarpumps recently. It is not a self priming pump and another thing is airlocks. You need to position it in a way that if air bubble to be developed they have natural escape route. This is the one I installed as a backup to my already great brushless pump done by Jamie. For the fresh water cooling since the tank is below the pump it might be an issue. I would experiment with the bucket and place pump to approximate hight plus some since we know it won’t be straight line up. Also you need to think of a way to prime the pump easily, if the water goes down and creates a long air gap for various reasons. -- Fair winds Ruslan Osmonov Phanthom, A54 #44
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Using water tank for fridge cooling circuit
Hi fellow owners, This is from PAG Safety Data sheet for compressor lubricant 1. Toxicological information
Information on likely routes of exposure
Inhalation May cause damage to organs by inhalation. Prolonged inhalation may be harmful. May cause
irritation to the respiratory system.
Skin contact Frequent or prolonged contact may defat and dry the skin, leading to discomfort and dermatitis.
Eye contact Direct contact with eyes may cause temporary irritation.
Ingestion May cause discomfort if swallowed. May be harmful if swallowed.
Symptoms related to the
physical, chemical and
toxicological characteristics
Direct contact with eyes may cause temporary irritation. Clearly it is not to be ingested, “may cause discomfort if swallowed” and “May be harmful if swallowed” but given the very small quantity in the event of a leak, that would float to the top of the tank. I think the risks to health are minimal. There would not be prolonged exposure, as a leak would be immediately noticed… On balance I really do not think that circulating water from the freshwater tank to cool the fridges is a particularly risky thing to do. There would not be prolonged exposure if one is ready to accept that Cupronickel is non soluble. Something that I am 100% happy to assume. In the event of a break in the condensing circuit, it is possible that refrigerant and some lubricating oil would contaminate the tank, but again I believe it would be noticed immediately and it would be a very small quantity that would then be filtered by the Seagull filter system for the drinking water. So the jury is still out as far as I am concerned. I definitely see the convenience of using freshwater rather than continuously circulating sea water and encouraging shell growth…. Nick S/V Amelia AML 54-019 Leros
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Using freshwater tank for fridge cooling
 I think that the R134A is pretty safe in the event of a leak. It would boil off instantly. The lubricant is another story. Probably a bit like sucking a diesel syphon!Nick Amelia AML 54-019 Leros
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Fridge circulating pump
I bought a micro 12v brushless circulating pump for £12 that has just arrived at home in the U.K.
Back on Amelia, I decided to convert the fridges to freshwater for the period out of the water in the boat yard. In so doing I changed the circulating pump, as the old was getting a bit noisy and hot. Frigomatic self priming pump costs £183….ouch. I am down to my last spare on the boat. So I bought this little Micro pump for £12. They are used for a number of things but fish tanks is one. As well as solar water collectors. They are supposed to run for tens of thousands of hours. The mount is plastic and the parts in contact with water are also plastic. When I get back to the boat I will install it and report back. It could be a very inexpensive alternative, or maybe not. We shall see. As for going freshwater, it works perfectly. I am still thinking about the risks to health but in my opinion the cupronickel is insoluble like copper and we all use copper in our domestic plumbing. That risk is close to zero. Actually I believe that the fibreglass tank itself is more likely to shed toxic chemicals. There is a risk of contaminating the freshwater tank in the event of a leak in the condensing unit…I think that the refrigerant itself would just vent out immediately but there would be some lubricating oil… So yes that is a worry. No free lunch. Nick (U.K.) S/V Amelia AML54-019 Leros
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Re: Malta marina to spend the winter
Bruno COTTE
And Malta is very close to update your electronics if you want it to be done there
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Envoyé de mon iPhone
Le 22 juil. 2022 à 04:52, Bruno COTTE <cotte.bruno@...> a écrit :
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Re: Malta marina to spend the winter
Bruno COTTE
I do prefer Marina di Ragusa in Sicily . Fresh underwater sources in marina and boat perfectly clean after 6 months . Safe and very correct prices . Good électronicien available plus significant sailors community in winter .
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Envoyé de mon iPhone
Le 22 juil. 2022 à 01:45, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> a écrit :
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Re: Malta marina to spend the winter
I can recommend Matthew Agius Delicata B.Sc (Hons), A D Yacht Services, Malta, Mob: +356 99002589 matt@... Matt has done some amazing electronic upgrades for Yacht School Clients.
On Thu, Jul 21, 2022 at 4:47 PM Jose Alegria <Josealegr@...> wrote:
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Malta marina to spend the winter
I would like receive some advices about the best Malta marina to spend the winter and do some maintenance, specially Furuno and B&G electronic upgrades. Thank you Good winds José Alegria
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Re: Found this on deck and don’t know where it came from
Richard Dallett
On my A54 they are used to fasten the aft ladder treads on to the ladder. Richard Dallett A54/68 Mamba
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Re: Climma AC fan don't start and/or speed will not change
Hi Mohammad Thank you for the explanations. You’re right it’s better to change all Capacitors when the unit is open. Happy sailing and BR Ruedi
Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>
Hi Reudi,
The fan not starting is most likely, but not 100% caused by a bad capacitor. In our unit we have 3. I believe 2,10 and 40 microfarads. Not sure which is for which. As a SOP, we just change all 3 capacitors, when one fails from the original set, which is now about 13 years old. We decided to go this route, because we had 3 capacitors fail this season. one in each unit. The first one was with a Big Bang and smoke in the master cabin. The second was discovered when we saw some hazy smoke in the salon. The third was smell of burning toast from the forward cabin. The smell and smoke is not pleasant and most likely toxic. So for 5 euros each, we figured better to replace all when we have the unit open. You can test the capacitance with a meter to check which one is bad.
The fan speed is controlled by a multi step transformer. The command for the transformer comes from the control unit. You need to check and see if the command to the transformer changes, when you change the fan speed. If this is ok, then most likely the controller is ok. You then need to check the output voltage to the fan motor from the transformer . This voltage should change based on the fan setting. The max voltage should be 230V for max fan speed. If this does not occur, then the transformer is bad.
The transformer replacement fixed our fan speed issue. I was told by a Veco rep recently that the transformer is no longer made. The new units have everything incorporated into the Electronics board. You may still find some hanging around at some distributors warehouse.
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo A54 #099
Respectfully;
Mohammad Shirloo +1-323-633-2222 Cell +1-424-644-0908 Fax
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of WASABI - Rudolf Waldispuehl via groups.io <Rudolf@...>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2022 10:39:42 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Climma AC fan don't start and/or speed will not change
Hi All,
On my A54 - Aft Cabin Climma AC Unit the Fan is not starting and after some attempt I’m able to get it run. Most of time the FAN it is not starting to blow. I know it could be the Capacitor in the Unit, but I don’t know exactly which one is for the FAN? The control of the FAN Speed is erratic and not changeable.
The thermostat and the compressor unit is working and the unit is starting to cool down, but without airflow it does not make much sense. Has anyone got into same situation and what was the solution? @ Mohammad, I’m coming back to your treat some years ago; - you changed the capacitor but then there was no fan speed control anymore. -What was your findings & outcome after all?
Thanks and BR. Ruedi Waldispuehl
SY WASABI AMEL54 #55 Otranto
Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>
Hi All;
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Re: Another instruction on engine and c-drive mounts and vetus coupling alignment
Raul Schleier
Thanks for your input Eric, Based on the comments and other articles I read on this forum it is now clear to me there are many variations. Many people report different types and brands of engine mounts and I didn’t know you don’t have to cut the bolts on later models like you describe. I guess I wouldn’t have had to cut mine either had the coupling not been stuck. I cut them so that I could pull them out backwards and insert the rods to use as an improvised gear puller (or rather “pusher”). There was no way I could remove the bolts the way they were mounted on SeaBean with the flexible coupling being stuck. Glad the design has improved on later models. I had planned to take my hub to a machine shop too had it not been for a long weekend so I figured I’d give it a go with emery cloth and it turned out to be enough. I’m pretty confident I will get it off quite easily next time having used tef-gel on the shaft. All the comments just go to show that there are many variations and the only boat I know for sure the document is valid for is SeaBean. CheersRaul - sm2k#344
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Re: Climma AC fan don't start and/or speed will not change
Ruedi,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Very often a close examination of the capacitors will reveal which one is defective. It may become misshaped or have a burn mark. Be careful as a fully charged capacitor can give one a nasty shock. From memory the biggest capacitor is the compressor start capacitor 40 microfarad. The compressor starts so not that one. Then there is the fan start and run capacitors. Which are smaller. Change them… If that does not solve the problem then you will have fun diagnosing the problem. If it’s the board, good luck finding a new one. The older units have different boards to the new. Nick Amelia AML54-019 Leros
On 20 Jul 2022, at 22:03, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Re: costs of ongoing R&M
David Vogel
Weighing in again ...
The total cost of ownership, including the cost of repairs & maintenance, foreseeable upgrades, and so on, all depends to a large extent on how, and where, you use the boat. No rocket science here. Whether or not you factor in depreciation (or making provision for the 'big ticket' items, such as replacing the main engine, genset, watermaker, running & standing rigging, and sails), will also factor into your annual provision. For example, the ONAN may cost, say, $5-/hr, direct operating cost to run; but double that if you make provision for replacement. (What is the useful life of the genset? Who knows, but useful 'hint' here, the modified 'DELPHI' technique could be your friend to help you derive your own a ballpark estimate for planning.) We have been 6 years 'out there', living aboard full-time, following the sun, meaning, in the tropics the whole time, = at least double the UV and heat-related wear-and-tear. Which is a hard life for a boat - sails, running rigging, soft-furnishings and covers, (internals, and the cockpit cushions), ground-tackle, soft-bimini, all in constant use, and the UV degradation has to be seen to be believed. We have hard-covers over the hatch lenses, for both UV and physical protection [https://outlandhatchcovers.com/ - highly recommend - please tell them that those Ozzies Dave & Lenny from svPerigee referred you - no kick-back for us, but like to stay in touch]. Having opaque covers reduces the UV-induced aging of internal wood and fabrics. Nevertheless, full-time live-aboard is hard on the internals - stuff breaks in use, cushions & fabrics wear-out, and so on. Being "out there", especially far from regular dedicated periods for refit, is even more hard of the boat (see more on this below) - and one ignores this basic fact at one's peril. Including boat & contents insurance (~$10k for 'all risks' cover, or somewhere between 1.5% to 2.5% of the insured value of boat & equipment), and add operating costs to the R&M budget (including the AMEL-specifics over and above regulars such as anti-fouling and so on), plus essential dockage, hard-stand, marina fees. It can add up to somewhere between 10% and 15% of your boat value, as being a not unreasonable first order approximation of the annual cost of boat ownership. If you find yourself unexpectedly tied up to a dock or on-the-hard for an extended period, you might find yourself up for an additional $1,000- per month. Or save yourself this amount, when you're able to be living free and wild on anchor, as we prefer to do. BTW, we split out "CREW Costs", such as food & liquor (big one), health, medevac & travel insurance (some of which is mandatory for visas in some countries), shore excursions, lodging & accommodation ashore, and flights & other travel - which, well, it's very much different strokes for different folks on this front, but when we're afloat, it costs the two of us roughly the same as it would for one single person ashore - (current Australian statistics indicate slightly more than $50k per annum for two retirees living a comfortable life; and about $35k for a single). Your mileage may vary. REFITS - it may help to view refits as a regular routine commitment. I suggest to consider and plan initially that dedicated Repairs & Maintenance (R&M) works programs (aka ‘Refits’) will take 5-10 percent of the time spent cruising away from your usual shore-base. To explain, in addition to daily R&M chores, I now plan on 2 weeks dedicated to R&M in every 6-month period spent cruising, compounding at 15% per annum if not attended to every 6 months; for example, 5 weeks in 52 wks away; a 3 months refit for 2 years spent cruising without dedicated period of R&M; 5 months within 3 years; 7 months in 4 years; 9 months in 5 years. Block out this interval in your cruising itinerary, and get used to the size of programme you will need to tackle on a regular basis. That is, if you are going to reduce the chances of getting caught out with major unserviceabilities, far away from your home base. The take-way: smaller chunks of regular R&M, done more frequently, is better than waiting and then playing catch-up. Speaking from experience, when our own planned schedule "time off for refurb and R&M" took a year's delay due to COVID, the delay was not spent in a marina or on the hard, we carried-on cruising for another 12 months. In hindsight, we were only able to get away with this relatively comfortably (OK, no running hot water, but hey, we were in the tropics) because we had already invested in ''overstocking" on the spares & consumables (or, so we thought), as well as having invested the time, $$$, and effort to have everything as much as reasonably practicable, in pretty-much top-notch condition, before we set off. Of course, if you you're staying close to home, or with access to familiar trust-worthy supply-lines and reliable service providers (or have a surfeit of willing 'mules'), then you may well be able to ramp down on the spares and preventative-maintenance, being able to accept a move more towards a "use now and pay later" philosophy (aka, after-the-fact repairs). Best, David SM#396, Perigee PS - The 'Admiral' deemed not to return to Perigee for a winter in NZ, unless the hot water system had been returned to service. Not unreasonable, I thought.
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Re: Bronze Gear
Eric Freedman
Sorry , I thought you were referring to the main gearbox. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Eric Freedman via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2022 7:29 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bronze Gear
I think the entire gearbox from Amel is about 800 euros. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Steve Harmon via groups.io
Hi Guys, does anyone have a source for the Bronze Gear for the outhaul on the Main? Having one made is $700 SM272
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Re: File /Yanmar 4JH3-HTE Alignment Information/Engine and C-Drive and Vetus coupling replacement and re-alignment Rev 1.00.pdf uploaded
#file-notice
Eric Freedman
Kimberlite also has different mounts. They are Yanmar mounts on the engine and Vetus mounts on the sail drive. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Alan Leslie
Thank you very much for your detailed procedure.
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Re: Bronze Gear
Eric Freedman
I think the entire gearbox from Amel is about 800 euros. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Steve Harmon via groups.io
Hi Guys, does anyone have a source for the Bronze Gear for the outhaul on the Main? Having one made is $700 SM272
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Re: Another instruction on engine and c-drive mounts and vetus coupling alignment
Eric Freedman
Hello Raul, That was an amazing job. I just have 2 comments. On later Amel’s such as mine #376 you do not have to cut the bolts to remove them from the coupling. Of course, you must use threaded rod to replace them.
Secondly, I had a machine shop cut a few thousands of an inch out of the center of the disk brake hub. This makes for easier removal in the future , I also applied Never=Seez to the input shaft of the sail drive.
About 5 years ago I replaced the donuts in the coupling. Last Spring, I replaced the engine and the disk brake slid off very easily.
Again, Great Work !!! Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Raul Schleier
Hi All, I have just replaced my Engine and C-Drive mounts and the rubber doughnuts in the Vetus flexible coupling and then realigned. I had some local talent replace the engine mounts when we first bought the boat but he screwed up so I decided to tackle the project myself. After reading everything I could find on the subject, the project still scared me but in hindsight turned out not to be too difficult. I documented the process and saved it under the files section here if anyone is interested. This thread was very useful (among many others). There’s nothing new in my instruction I just posted that hasn’t already been covered in this forum. Nothing in the process has been invented by me. I just took lots of pictures and tried to explain what I did and what I didn’t know or understand in case it can help someone doing this the first time. If you’ve already done it, this instruction is probably of no use to you. The instruction is based on our boat, SM2k#344 with a Yanmar 4JH3-TE and may not be valid for your boat. Use at your own risk and don’t sue me if it all turns to custard. Please let me know if you find any factual errors so that I can update the file.
Cheers
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Re: Found this on deck and don’t know where it came from
Raul Schleier
Mystery solved. Thanks all for your suggestions, I found I had these nuts in various places that I didn’t know about before being pointed in the right direction. The missing one turned out to be from the outboard mount. I’m surprised it fell on deck and not in the water.
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Re: Found this on deck and don’t know where it came from
My ladder uses them holding the screws of the steps
Jose Gabriel Ipanema SM2k 278
|
|||||||
|
|
|||||||
|
Re: Black Oil in the Air-filter and housing
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Thanks for the reminder Bill. However I will add one point I had forgotten. Volvo were fixated on the level of oil in the sump. Believed too high a level could be involved. They had their tech come and change the oil, adding the precise measured quantity. Apparently some dip sticks were incorrectly marked. Not so in my case. That was their last shot before they replaced the turbo. Reminder. This was on a Volvo D 2 75. At 1400hrs now and very happy with it.
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
|
|||||||
|
|
