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Amel 54-C drive seals

Nick Newington
 

Just a quick question. I want to make up a short length of aluminium pipe to tap in the lip seals for the C drive.

I believe that the  Wear Bushing is 45mm but I do not know the exact seal dimension 45X?X?

Does anyone know the precise seal size? So that I can find a bit of pipe with ID slightly larger than 45mm and the OD slightly less than the seal OD.

Best

Nick 
Amelia
AML 54-019 Leros Gr.
Re: Wave slap / banging under the stern

Barry Connor
 

Hi Richard,
I don’t have a photo handy but if your search “Slap Stopper” you should find what you need. US supplier.
Ours works perfectly In marinas.
Very Best 

Barry and Penny 
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54.  #17
Southern Caribbean 


On Aug 30, 2022, at 11:00 AM, Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:

The only time this even a thing on Harmonie is when we are in a marina, and the wind blows at us from the stern with enough fetch to make larger waves.  This is this something we even notice at anchor, and never is it annoying enough that we even dream it’s worth doing something about. Seriously, we notice the snapping of the shrimp more than wave slap.

Of course, in line with Bill Rouse’ comments above, I have lived on sailboats for close to 25 years, so my brain probably has better “boat noise filters” than most people.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Port Louis, Grenada 
http://www.cruisingconsulting.com

Re: Wave slap / banging under the stern

Bill Kinney
 

The only time this even a thing on Harmonie is when we are in a marina, and the wind blows at us from the stern with enough fetch to make larger waves.  This is this something we even notice at anchor, and never is it annoying enough that we even dream it’s worth doing something about. Seriously, we notice the snapping of the shrimp more than wave slap.

Of course, in line with Bill Rouse’ comments above, I have lived on sailboats for close to 25 years, so my brain probably has better “boat noise filters” than most people.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Port Louis, Grenada 
http://www.cruisingconsulting.com
Re: Wave slap / banging under the stern

Richard Dallett
 

Do you have any photos of your contraption?
Re: Removing backstays

David Dickman
 

Hi Eric and Bill,
   I do indeed have a standoff as Eric described and Bill showed in the picture.  I could not lower it all the way by opening the standoff bracket, so had to undo the hinge at the bottom also.  The antennae is quite long (near 20' I estimate).  When reassembled, used Corrosion X on the hardware, good suggestions!

Thanks,
    David

On Mon, Aug 29, 2022 at 12:07 PM Eric Freedman <kimberlite.ef@...> wrote:

Bill,

My standoff is made differently and unlatches like the snap closure on a plastic tool box. I just flip the stainless steel lever and the standoff and swing it out of the way. I still have my original one now 20 years old. I always put cable ties over the rail and around the antenna to relieve strain on the mount.  I also use heavy cable ties to ensure closure of the stern “rail” rope thing.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2022 9:12 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing backstays

 

Eric,

 

I believe you are referring to the "SSB Standoff" which is similar to this one. Don't make the mistake of trying to lower the antenna at the deck swivel without making sure the swivel is loosened. I learned the hard way that the antenna will easily break at the deck swivel. Almost all of the originally installed SSB Standoff fittings will need replacing because of UV damage.

image.png



Image removed by sender.

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

Image removed by sender. Image removed by sender. Image removed by sender. 

 

On Sun, Aug 28, 2022 at 8:40 PM Eric Freedman <kimberlite.ef@...> wrote:

HI David,

If your antenna is installed as on Kimberlite you can just open the hinge and drop the antenna until it clears the bar while the boat is still in the water. Once the antenna is clear of the bar and the lift moves forward you can put the antenna back.

Once you are chocked you can go aboard and do the same to allow the travel lift to leave.

Put some lubricant on the holder that holds the hinge pin of the antenna, the UV tends to make it very dry and sometimes difficult to open.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of David Dickman
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2022 8:39 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing backstays

 

Hi Sarah,

   I just did this two weeks ago here in Houston.  The travel lift was too short and I had to remove both the back stays, the SSB antennae, and the mizzen topping lift myself as the marina crew is not allowed to do it because of insurance.

 

Here is what I did on my A54:

   a) mark with painters tape the top and bottom of each threaded rod just outside the open body of the turnbuckle on both stays before loosening either.  This will allow you to tighten them back to the same point when reassembling them.

   b) take a strong line and span between the stantion eyes port and starboard aft of the mizzen to form a bridle (like a v). I just tied it with bowlines and used a 3/4" mooring line

   c) run a spar mizzen ballooner halyard to the "V" bridle  and tighten to stabilze rig fore/aft before removing back stays (this will keep the adriatic stay in place)

   d) loosened the mizzen topping lift and dropped the mizzen boom to the deck, secured topping lift with a strayline to the stanchion

   e) tied a stray line through the turnbuckle and secured it under my leg so that if I dropped the turnbuckle it would not end up at the bottom of the marina.  As you loosen the turnbuckle, this line will get wrapped around, but just stop every so often and unwind it.

   f) remove the turnbuckle pin (on my boat these are small 3mm bolts).  

   g) loosened one turnbuckle until free at a time.  I used a pair of channel locks to hold the threaded stay and a large flat blade screwdriver to twist the open turnbuckle body (this is how the riggers do it at Caraibe Marine in Martinique also).

    h)  secured the free stay to the "V" bridle with a bungee cord

   i) repeat on other side of boat.

 

 they then hauled the boat and blocked it for 3 days while 2 new sensors (DST and sonar) were installed and glassed in.

 

   When the boat was launched, I reversed the process by starting with the turnbuckles first.  Tightened them until each reached the tape on the threads on each side.  Then replaced the mizzen topping lift and antennae. then once all was secure, removed the mizzen balooner halyard and "V" bridle.  Replaced the turnbuckle pins.  

   We went sailing the next day for about 8 hours and all was fine.

 

Hope that helps....

 

David

Galini

A54 #100 

 

On Sat, Aug 27, 2022 at 4:41 AM Sarah & Trevor McIlwaine <Ourbigboatyadventure@...> wrote:

Hi there,

we are finally being lifted for the topside overhaul.  The yard in Portimao (Portugal) have requested that we remove the backstays for the lift.  Has anyone done this before?  Any tips on making sure that the rest of the rigging is stable for the duration of the lift out?  

The mast & rigging are to the original specification (we believe), so straight spreaders and check stays for the mizzen  mast.  Any and all hints and tips are gratefully received.

Thanks in advance, 

Sarah & Trev, Elice, Maramu, #162
Re: Removing backstays

Eric Freedman
 

Bill,

My standoff is made differently and unlatches like the snap closure on a plastic tool box. I just flip the stainless steel lever and the standoff and swing it out of the way. I still have my original one now 20 years old. I always put cable ties over the rail and around the antenna to relieve strain on the mount.  I also use heavy cable ties to ensure closure of the stern “rail” rope thing.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2022 9:12 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing backstays

 

Eric,

 

I believe you are referring to the "SSB Standoff" which is similar to this one. Don't make the mistake of trying to lower the antenna at the deck swivel without making sure the swivel is loosened. I learned the hard way that the antenna will easily break at the deck swivel. Almost all of the originally installed SSB Standoff fittings will need replacing because of UV damage.

image.png



Image removed by sender.

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

Image removed by sender. Image removed by sender. Image removed by sender. 

 

On Sun, Aug 28, 2022 at 8:40 PM Eric Freedman <kimberlite.ef@...> wrote:

HI David,

If your antenna is installed as on Kimberlite you can just open the hinge and drop the antenna until it clears the bar while the boat is still in the water. Once the antenna is clear of the bar and the lift moves forward you can put the antenna back.

Once you are chocked you can go aboard and do the same to allow the travel lift to leave.

Put some lubricant on the holder that holds the hinge pin of the antenna, the UV tends to make it very dry and sometimes difficult to open.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of David Dickman
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2022 8:39 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing backstays

 

Hi Sarah,

   I just did this two weeks ago here in Houston.  The travel lift was too short and I had to remove both the back stays, the SSB antennae, and the mizzen topping lift myself as the marina crew is not allowed to do it because of insurance.

 

Here is what I did on my A54:

   a) mark with painters tape the top and bottom of each threaded rod just outside the open body of the turnbuckle on both stays before loosening either.  This will allow you to tighten them back to the same point when reassembling them.

   b) take a strong line and span between the stantion eyes port and starboard aft of the mizzen to form a bridle (like a v). I just tied it with bowlines and used a 3/4" mooring line

   c) run a spar mizzen ballooner halyard to the "V" bridle  and tighten to stabilze rig fore/aft before removing back stays (this will keep the adriatic stay in place)

   d) loosened the mizzen topping lift and dropped the mizzen boom to the deck, secured topping lift with a strayline to the stanchion

   e) tied a stray line through the turnbuckle and secured it under my leg so that if I dropped the turnbuckle it would not end up at the bottom of the marina.  As you loosen the turnbuckle, this line will get wrapped around, but just stop every so often and unwind it.

   f) remove the turnbuckle pin (on my boat these are small 3mm bolts).  

   g) loosened one turnbuckle until free at a time.  I used a pair of channel locks to hold the threaded stay and a large flat blade screwdriver to twist the open turnbuckle body (this is how the riggers do it at Caraibe Marine in Martinique also).

    h)  secured the free stay to the "V" bridle with a bungee cord

   i) repeat on other side of boat.

 

 they then hauled the boat and blocked it for 3 days while 2 new sensors (DST and sonar) were installed and glassed in.

 

   When the boat was launched, I reversed the process by starting with the turnbuckles first.  Tightened them until each reached the tape on the threads on each side.  Then replaced the mizzen topping lift and antennae. then once all was secure, removed the mizzen balooner halyard and "V" bridle.  Replaced the turnbuckle pins.  

   We went sailing the next day for about 8 hours and all was fine.

 

Hope that helps....

 

David

Galini

A54 #100 

 

On Sat, Aug 27, 2022 at 4:41 AM Sarah & Trevor McIlwaine <Ourbigboatyadventure@...> wrote:

Hi there,

we are finally being lifted for the topside overhaul.  The yard in Portimao (Portugal) have requested that we remove the backstays for the lift.  Has anyone done this before?  Any tips on making sure that the rest of the rigging is stable for the duration of the lift out?  

The mast & rigging are to the original specification (we believe), so straight spreaders and check stays for the mizzen  mast.  Any and all hints and tips are gratefully received.

Thanks in advance, 

Sarah & Trev, Elice, Maramu, #162
Re: Removing backstays

CW Bill Rouse
 

Eric,

I believe you are referring to the "SSB Standoff" which is similar to this one. Don't make the mistake of trying to lower the antenna at the deck swivel without making sure the swivel is loosened. I learned the hard way that the antenna will easily break at the deck swivel. Almost all of the originally installed SSB Standoff fittings will need replacing because of UV damage.
image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Sun, Aug 28, 2022 at 8:40 PM Eric Freedman <kimberlite.ef@...> wrote:

HI David,

If your antenna is installed as on Kimberlite you can just open the hinge and drop the antenna until it clears the bar while the boat is still in the water. Once the antenna is clear of the bar and the lift moves forward you can put the antenna back.

Once you are chocked you can go aboard and do the same to allow the travel lift to leave.

Put some lubricant on the holder that holds the hinge pin of the antenna, the UV tends to make it very dry and sometimes difficult to open.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of David Dickman
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2022 8:39 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing backstays

 

Hi Sarah,

   I just did this two weeks ago here in Houston.  The travel lift was too short and I had to remove both the back stays, the SSB antennae, and the mizzen topping lift myself as the marina crew is not allowed to do it because of insurance.

 

Here is what I did on my A54:

   a) mark with painters tape the top and bottom of each threaded rod just outside the open body of the turnbuckle on both stays before loosening either.  This will allow you to tighten them back to the same point when reassembling them.

   b) take a strong line and span between the stantion eyes port and starboard aft of the mizzen to form a bridle (like a v). I just tied it with bowlines and used a 3/4" mooring line

   c) run a spar mizzen ballooner halyard to the "V" bridle  and tighten to stabilze rig fore/aft before removing back stays (this will keep the adriatic stay in place)

   d) loosened the mizzen topping lift and dropped the mizzen boom to the deck, secured topping lift with a strayline to the stanchion

   e) tied a stray line through the turnbuckle and secured it under my leg so that if I dropped the turnbuckle it would not end up at the bottom of the marina.  As you loosen the turnbuckle, this line will get wrapped around, but just stop every so often and unwind it.

   f) remove the turnbuckle pin (on my boat these are small 3mm bolts).  

   g) loosened one turnbuckle until free at a time.  I used a pair of channel locks to hold the threaded stay and a large flat blade screwdriver to twist the open turnbuckle body (this is how the riggers do it at Caraibe Marine in Martinique also).

    h)  secured the free stay to the "V" bridle with a bungee cord

   i) repeat on other side of boat.

 

 they then hauled the boat and blocked it for 3 days while 2 new sensors (DST and sonar) were installed and glassed in.

 

   When the boat was launched, I reversed the process by starting with the turnbuckles first.  Tightened them until each reached the tape on the threads on each side.  Then replaced the mizzen topping lift and antennae. then once all was secure, removed the mizzen balooner halyard and "V" bridle.  Replaced the turnbuckle pins.  

   We went sailing the next day for about 8 hours and all was fine.

 

Hope that helps....

 

David

Galini

A54 #100 

 

On Sat, Aug 27, 2022 at 4:41 AM Sarah & Trevor McIlwaine <Ourbigboatyadventure@...> wrote:

Hi there,

we are finally being lifted for the topside overhaul.  The yard in Portimao (Portugal) have requested that we remove the backstays for the lift.  Has anyone done this before?  Any tips on making sure that the rest of the rigging is stable for the duration of the lift out?  

The mast & rigging are to the original specification (we believe), so straight spreaders and check stays for the mizzen  mast.  Any and all hints and tips are gratefully received.

Thanks in advance, 

Sarah & Trev, Elice, Maramu, #162
Re: Ballooner for Santorin

Ian Park
 

The Santorin procedure is exactly the same.
Re: Removing backstays

Eric Freedman
 

HI David,

If your antenna is installed as on Kimberlite you can just open the hinge and drop the antenna until it clears the bar while the boat is still in the water. Once the antenna is clear of the bar and the lift moves forward you can put the antenna back.

Once you are chocked you can go aboard and do the same to allow the travel lift to leave.

Put some lubricant on the holder that holds the hinge pin of the antenna, the UV tends to make it very dry and sometimes difficult to open.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of David Dickman
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2022 8:39 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing backstays

 

Hi Sarah,

   I just did this two weeks ago here in Houston.  The travel lift was too short and I had to remove both the back stays, the SSB antennae, and the mizzen topping lift myself as the marina crew is not allowed to do it because of insurance.

 

Here is what I did on my A54:

   a) mark with painters tape the top and bottom of each threaded rod just outside the open body of the turnbuckle on both stays before loosening either.  This will allow you to tighten them back to the same point when reassembling them.

   b) take a strong line and span between the stantion eyes port and starboard aft of the mizzen to form a bridle (like a v). I just tied it with bowlines and used a 3/4" mooring line

   c) run a spar mizzen ballooner halyard to the "V" bridle  and tighten to stabilze rig fore/aft before removing back stays (this will keep the adriatic stay in place)

   d) loosened the mizzen topping lift and dropped the mizzen boom to the deck, secured topping lift with a strayline to the stanchion

   e) tied a stray line through the turnbuckle and secured it under my leg so that if I dropped the turnbuckle it would not end up at the bottom of the marina.  As you loosen the turnbuckle, this line will get wrapped around, but just stop every so often and unwind it.

   f) remove the turnbuckle pin (on my boat these are small 3mm bolts).  

   g) loosened one turnbuckle until free at a time.  I used a pair of channel locks to hold the threaded stay and a large flat blade screwdriver to twist the open turnbuckle body (this is how the riggers do it at Caraibe Marine in Martinique also).

    h)  secured the free stay to the "V" bridle with a bungee cord

   i) repeat on other side of boat.

 

 they then hauled the boat and blocked it for 3 days while 2 new sensors (DST and sonar) were installed and glassed in.

 

   When the boat was launched, I reversed the process by starting with the turnbuckles first.  Tightened them until each reached the tape on the threads on each side.  Then replaced the mizzen topping lift and antennae. then once all was secure, removed the mizzen balooner halyard and "V" bridle.  Replaced the turnbuckle pins.  

   We went sailing the next day for about 8 hours and all was fine.

 

Hope that helps....

 

David

Galini

A54 #100 

 

On Sat, Aug 27, 2022 at 4:41 AM Sarah & Trevor McIlwaine <Ourbigboatyadventure@...> wrote:

Hi there,

we are finally being lifted for the topside overhaul.  The yard in Portimao (Portugal) have requested that we remove the backstays for the lift.  Has anyone done this before?  Any tips on making sure that the rest of the rigging is stable for the duration of the lift out?  

The mast & rigging are to the original specification (we believe), so straight spreaders and check stays for the mizzen  mast.  Any and all hints and tips are gratefully received.

Thanks in advance, 

Sarah & Trev, Elice, Maramu, #162
Re: Volvo Penta D3 110i Replacing the engine belt

Bertrand Quénot
 

Thanks Nick  for your valuable advices.

A new alternator is in place and running now. It has been a bit difficult to fix though as the model delivered was not insulated and required drills to receive the plastic insulators. Water pump is definitely the faulty part as it has been leaking on the alernator for a while. Hopefully I had one in my spares.

Enjoy Leros and Dodecanese islands.

Bertrand

 

De : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> De la part de Nick Newington via groups.io
Envoyé : dimanche 14 août 2022 16:12
À : main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Objet : Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo Penta D3 110i Replacing the engine belt

 

Do not disconnect the big cables . You need to disconnect the field wire. This will be a small wire that comes on when the engine is turned on with the ignition switch.

It may be labelled FLD on the alternator. If you could test which wire comes on with the ignition switch with a multimeter.

When the field wire is disconnected and taped up out of the way the alternator will not generate. The engine panel may make an alarm though when you run it.

Nick



On 15 Aug 2022, at 02:52, Bertrand Quénot <bertrand@...> wrote:



Thanks Nick,

Assuming the start battery could be charged by the generator and a potential issue with the 12V engine alternator maybe I should turn the alternator off.

The alternator not stopping the charge could be what destroyed my previous start battery.

What is the best way to do it ? Disconnecting the lugs or is there a fuse to make it simpler ? I didn’t see any fuse obviously doing that job.

Bertrand

Antinea A54#43 in Tikehau Tuamotu



Le 14 août 2022 à 10:28, Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> a écrit :

 If you run the generator it will charge the starting  battery. So that means the generator’s engine is running its 12v alternator that charges the same start battery as the engine’s. 

 

If you run the engine and the 12v alternator is getting hot that is not correct. Assuming the start battery is full the alternator should not get hotter than the engine itself, actually cooler. 

 

if there is an auto electric shop nearby, you could take off the alternator to be bench tested. 

 

Nick

 

S/Y  Amelia 

 

AML 54-019 Leros

 

 



On 14 Aug 2022, at 20:36, Bertrand Quénot <bertrand@...> wrote:

 

Nick,

Yes the start battery starts the generator.

It’s voltage is 12,42 V. This is not completely surprising as I have turned one of the service batteries into a start battery yesterday.

I made a first cleaning of the electrical connections to the alternator.

However I still have the LOW VOLTAGE alarm when I turn the engine on.

Will do another cleaning but I start wondering if the alternator is not dead.

By the way it was burning yesterday and is still very hot one night after.

Stupid question: is there any mean to load the start battery than the engine alternator ?

Cheers

 

 



Le 14 août 2022 à 00:05, Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> a écrit :

 Bertrand,

 

I would check the connections from the Volvo to the battery, more than likely there is corrosion below the 12v alternator or even on the alternator lugs. Those cables should come off and the lugs be sanded bright metal and treated with corrosion X or equivalent, and be secured tightly. I suspect this is where your problems lie due to salt water drips from above...

 

 

If the start battery can start the generator easily, remember that the generator takes more grunt to start than the Volvo because it has to turn the heavy windings of the generator as opposed to just starting the diesel Kubota motor, then the 12v start battery should be fine. 

 

 

 Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

 

Bertrand,

The 12v alternator and raw water pump are driven by the same belt which is tensioned by an automatic spring loaded tensioner.

If you look carefully you will see a star shaped hole. You need T60 socket. You turn it against the spring with one hand, takes quite a bit of force, and the belt is de tensioned and can be removed. 

Take photo before to get the belt route clear.

The raw water pump directly above 12v alternator is a design fault. I get a black napkin and fold it and place on the tray below the pump so that any drips from the raw water pump drip onto it. They show up as white crystals. Change the pump seals  before it gets worse and drips on the alternator below is sensible advice.

Good luck.

PS since you will be changing the raw water pump or the seals then run fresh water through the engine first so the inevitable spillage will not be salt water.

Nick 

S/Y Amelia

AML54-019

 



On 14 Aug 2022, at 07:51, NICK NEWINGTON <ngtnewington@...> wrote:





On 14 Aug 2022, at 06:09, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

See attached.

You will need a T60 Torx bit and it needs to be longer than normal to clear the pulley. Hopefully you have one in your tools that came with the boat as I am not sure the magasin in Tikehau will have it. ;)
<Screen Shot 2022-08-14 at 5.08.06 PM.png>
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

 

 
Re: Fireproof material for mounting invertors and solar regulators on?

Paul
 

Hi Daniel,

I was responding to: “ What kind of outlet sells this material?”

If faced with this project  I would use fuses & the gauge of wire for the calculated loads. You could also add a temperature alarm to the project if you are concerned about fire.

Paul

ARAMIS
SM 444
Port Townsend, Washington
FAO Bill Rouse

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Hi Bill,

 

We’re in Houston for a couple of weeks and planning on going to Galveston. Any chance of meeting up? Please email me on paul.dowd at fgps.com

 

Cheers,

Paul

 

Paul Dowd & Sharon Brown

S/Y Ya Fohi, Amel 54 #98
tel: +44 (0)7710 466619

skype: pauldowd
web: https://my.yb.tl/yafohi

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
Re: Ballooner for Santorin

Clément Campeau
 

Many thanks Bill,

I will do as you suggested 

Kind regards!

Clément Campeau
Alibi

Le dim. 28 août 2022 à 12:12, Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> a écrit :
Alibi,

If you look for the Super Maramu Owners manual in this forum "Files" section you'll find a detailed description of the "official" Amel procedure for flying the ballooner.  I am sure there will be minor differences from your boat, but the basic concept should carry over.

Here is a piece of advice on trimming the twin headsail rig I have not read in any of the Amel literature:  Do not over trim the sails!  ease the sheets until the top 20% of each of both head sails is on the verge of luffing.  That's more curve in the sail that you might think would be optimum for making the boat move, but... if you do this you will greatly reduce the boat's tendency to roll. It really works, and the difference can be dramatic.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Port Louis, Grenada
http://www.cruisingconsulting.com

Re: Ballooner for Santorin

Bill Kinney
 

Alibi,

If you look for the Super Maramu Owners manual in this forum "Files" section you'll find a detailed description of the "official" Amel procedure for flying the ballooner.  I am sure there will be minor differences from your boat, but the basic concept should carry over.

Here is a piece of advice on trimming the twin headsail rig I have not read in any of the Amel literature:  Do not over trim the sails!  ease the sheets until the top 20% of each of both head sails is on the verge of luffing.  That's more curve in the sail that you might think would be optimum for making the boat move, but... if you do this you will greatly reduce the boat's tendency to roll. It really works, and the difference can be dramatic.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Port Louis, Grenada
http://www.cruisingconsulting.com
Re: Yanmar 4JH3-HTE Crankshaft Pulley change to serpentine

Nick Newington
 

Hi George,

Have the crank pulley machined to match the 8 groove you have found for the alternator. I did this on my 54. Used to run on twin v belts, creating dust and heat. Now no dust, no heat.

Calculate the pulley ratios such that you do not exceed the rated maximum for the alternator at wide open throttle on the engine. 

Best

Nick
Amelia

AML 54-019

Leros Gr


On 28 Aug 2022, at 08:24, George Green via groups.io <gdagreen@...> wrote:

My 2004 SM with the 4JH3  100hp Yanmar still has  original alternator setup ex Amel. 185 Leece Neville on 2 belts for 24v and Hitachi 80 on single belt for 12v. Only mod is a Sterling regulator on  the 24v since 2016. 
Have just installed 600ah of lithium, which the Sterling handles just fine thus far. Only issue is belt slippage at startup for a short period, limiting initial engine rpms to about 1200.
I would like to ,therefore, to install  a serpentine belt system to the Leece Neville.  I have obtained a serpentine  pulley[ 8 groove] for the LC itself but having trouble finding a replacement pulley 8 groove for the Yanmar crankshaft.
I have no need of a 4 grand complete replacement alternator system as my Cerbo tells me the LC is cranking out over 2kw on bulk, so a simple pulley replacement would fill the bill.
Any suggestions would be welcome. I am US based, currently in Greek waters
Many thanks in advance

George ,
on COCO,  SM 434
Yanmar 4JH3-HTE Crankshaft Pulley change to serpentine

George Green
 

My 2004 SM with the 4JH3  100hp Yanmar still has  original alternator setup ex Amel. 185 Leece Neville on 2 belts for 24v and Hitachi 80 on single belt for 12v. Only mod is a Sterling regulator on  the 24v since 2016. 
Have just installed 600ah of lithium, which the Sterling handles just fine thus far. Only issue is belt slippage at startup for a short period, limiting initial engine rpms to about 1200.
I would like to ,therefore, to install  a serpentine belt system to the Leece Neville.  I have obtained a serpentine  pulley[ 8 groove] for the LC itself but having trouble finding a replacement pulley 8 groove for the Yanmar crankshaft.
I have no need of a 4 grand complete replacement alternator system as my Cerbo tells me the LC is cranking out over 2kw on bulk, so a simple pulley replacement would fill the bill.
Any suggestions would be welcome. I am US based, currently in Greek waters
Many thanks in advance

George ,
on COCO,  SM 434
Re: Removing backstays

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Mark , I think you are being overcausious here. There is minimal, in fact I would think no risk in removing the backstays and mizzen topping lift. The lowers will provide the support needed during the lift.  Either a halyard tied back once ashore or reapply the backstays will deal with a gale. 
Kind Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

On 28/08/2022 07:15 Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:





While I have done this (as others have), it is certainly not my first choice. Given a choice, I will always opt for a yard with the equipment to properly lift the boat without removing the back stays.


I think you need to ask yourself who is responsible if something goes wrong and you agreed to the lifting procedure. And, how would your insurance company respond should a failure occur.


Ask the yard if they are willing to accept ALL responsibility for the lift. Then, you'll have your answer.



With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us



On 8/26/2022 11:41 PM, Sarah & Trevor McIlwaine wrote:

Hi there,

we are finally being lifted for the topside overhaul.  The yard in Portimao (Portugal) have requested that we remove the backstays for the lift.  Has anyone done this before?  Any tips on making sure that the rest of the rigging is stable for the duration of the lift out?  

The mast & rigging are to the original specification (we believe), so straight spreaders and check stays for the mizzen  mast.  Any and all hints and tips are gratefully received.

Thanks in advance, 

Sarah & Trev, Elice, Maramu, #162
Re: Removing backstays

Mark Erdos
 

 


 

While I have done this (as others have), it is certainly not my first choice. Given a choice, I will always opt for a yard with the equipment to properly lift the boat without removing the back stays.


I think you need to ask yourself who is responsible if something goes wrong and you agreed to the lifting procedure. And, how would your insurance company respond should a failure occur.


Ask the yard if they are willing to accept ALL responsibility for the lift. Then, you'll have your answer.


 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us



On 8/26/2022 11:41 PM, Sarah & Trevor McIlwaine wrote:

Hi there,

we are finally being lifted for the topside overhaul.  The yard in Portimao (Portugal) have requested that we remove the backstays for the lift.  Has anyone done this before?  Any tips on making sure that the rest of the rigging is stable for the duration of the lift out?  

The mast & rigging are to the original specification (we believe), so straight spreaders and check stays for the mizzen  mast.  Any and all hints and tips are gratefully received.

Thanks in advance, 

Sarah & Trev, Elice, Maramu, #162
Re: Removing backstays

Sarah & Trevor McIlwaine
 

Thank you all so much for the responses to this. Based on these I feel confident about removing the backstays for the lift next week. I guess I should’ve known that it wouldn’t be a problem being an Amel, even if she is getting on a bit!

Thanks again

Trev and Sarah
Ballooner for Santorin

Clément Campeau
 

I just acquired a 1992 Santorin equipped with a ballooner. I have never used this sail. Could anyone run me through the setup process please.
The stay foil has 3 grooves and I have 2 baby poles and 2 longer poles. A picture would certainly help.
I am currently sailing in Maine.
Many thanks!

Clement Campeau 
Santorin # 74
Alibi
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