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Re: Ballooner for Santorin
Ian Park
The Santorin procedure is exactly the same.
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Re: Removing backstays
Eric Freedman
HI David, If your antenna is installed as on Kimberlite you can just open the hinge and drop the antenna until it clears the bar while the boat is still in the water. Once the antenna is clear of the bar and the lift moves forward you can put the antenna back. Once you are chocked you can go aboard and do the same to allow the travel lift to leave. Put some lubricant on the holder that holds the hinge pin of the antenna, the UV tends to make it very dry and sometimes difficult to open. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of David Dickman
Hi Sarah, I just did this two weeks ago here in Houston. The travel lift was too short and I had to remove both the back stays, the SSB antennae, and the mizzen topping lift myself as the marina crew is not allowed to do it because of insurance.
Here is what I did on my A54: a) mark with painters tape the top and bottom of each threaded rod just outside the open body of the turnbuckle on both stays before loosening either. This will allow you to tighten them back to the same point when reassembling them. b) take a strong line and span between the stantion eyes port and starboard aft of the mizzen to form a bridle (like a v). I just tied it with bowlines and used a 3/4" mooring line c) run a spar mizzen ballooner halyard to the "V" bridle and tighten to stabilze rig fore/aft before removing back stays (this will keep the adriatic stay in place) d) loosened the mizzen topping lift and dropped the mizzen boom to the deck, secured topping lift with a strayline to the stanchion e) tied a stray line through the turnbuckle and secured it under my leg so that if I dropped the turnbuckle it would not end up at the bottom of the marina. As you loosen the turnbuckle, this line will get wrapped around, but just stop every so often and unwind it. f) remove the turnbuckle pin (on my boat these are small 3mm bolts). g) loosened one turnbuckle until free at a time. I used a pair of channel locks to hold the threaded stay and a large flat blade screwdriver to twist the open turnbuckle body (this is how the riggers do it at Caraibe Marine in Martinique also). h) secured the free stay to the "V" bridle with a bungee cord i) repeat on other side of boat.
they then hauled the boat and blocked it for 3 days while 2 new sensors (DST and sonar) were installed and glassed in.
When the boat was launched, I reversed the process by starting with the turnbuckles first. Tightened them until each reached the tape on the threads on each side. Then replaced the mizzen topping lift and antennae. then once all was secure, removed the mizzen balooner halyard and "V" bridle. Replaced the turnbuckle pins. We went sailing the next day for about 8 hours and all was fine.
Hope that helps....
David Galini A54 #100
On Sat, Aug 27, 2022 at 4:41 AM Sarah & Trevor McIlwaine <Ourbigboatyadventure@...> wrote:
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Re: Volvo Penta D3 110i Replacing the engine belt
Bertrand Quénot
Thanks Nick for your valuable advices. A new alternator is in place and running now. It has been a bit difficult to fix though as the model delivered was not insulated and required drills to receive the plastic insulators. Water pump is definitely the faulty part as it has been leaking on the alernator for a while. Hopefully I had one in my spares. Enjoy Leros and Dodecanese islands. Bertrand
De : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
De la part de Nick Newington via groups.io
Do not disconnect the big cables . You need to disconnect the field wire. This will be a small wire that comes on when the engine is turned on with the ignition switch. It may be labelled FLD on the alternator. If you could test which wire comes on with the ignition switch with a multimeter. When the field wire is disconnected and taped up out of the way the alternator will not generate. The engine panel may make an alarm though when you run it. Nick
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Re: Fireproof material for mounting invertors and solar regulators on?
Paul
Hi Daniel,
I was responding to: “ What kind of outlet sells this material?” If faced with this project I would use fuses & the gauge of wire for the calculated loads. You could also add a temperature alarm to the project if you are concerned about fire. Paul ARAMIS SM 444 Port Townsend, Washington |
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FAO Bill Rouse
Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
Hi Bill,
We’re in Houston for a couple of weeks and planning on going to Galveston. Any chance of meeting up? Please email me on paul.dowd at fgps.com
Cheers, Paul
Paul Dowd & Sharon Brown S/Y Ya Fohi, Amel 54 #98 skype: pauldowd
-- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 |
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Re: Ballooner for Santorin
Clément Campeau
Many thanks Bill, I will do as you suggested Kind regards! Clément Campeau Alibi Le dim. 28 août 2022 à 12:12, Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> a écrit : Alibi, |
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Re: Ballooner for Santorin
Bill Kinney
Alibi,
If you look for the Super Maramu Owners manual in this forum "Files" section you'll find a detailed description of the "official" Amel procedure for flying the ballooner. I am sure there will be minor differences from your boat, but the basic concept should carry over. Here is a piece of advice on trimming the twin headsail rig I have not read in any of the Amel literature: Do not over trim the sails! ease the sheets until the top 20% of each of both head sails is on the verge of luffing. That's more curve in the sail that you might think would be optimum for making the boat move, but... if you do this you will greatly reduce the boat's tendency to roll. It really works, and the difference can be dramatic. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Port Louis, Grenada http://www.cruisingconsulting.com |
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Re: Yanmar 4JH3-HTE Crankshaft Pulley change to serpentine
Hi George,
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Have the crank pulley machined to match the 8 groove you have found for the alternator. I did this on my 54. Used to run on twin v belts, creating dust and heat. Now no dust, no heat. Calculate the pulley ratios such that you do not exceed the rated maximum for the alternator at wide open throttle on the engine. Best Nick Amelia AML 54-019 Leros Gr 
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Yanmar 4JH3-HTE Crankshaft Pulley change to serpentine
My 2004 SM with the 4JH3 100hp Yanmar still has original alternator setup ex Amel. 185 Leece Neville on 2 belts for 24v and Hitachi 80 on single belt for 12v. Only mod is a Sterling regulator on the 24v since 2016.
Have just installed 600ah of lithium, which the Sterling handles just fine thus far. Only issue is belt slippage at startup for a short period, limiting initial engine rpms to about 1200. I would like to ,therefore, to install a serpentine belt system to the Leece Neville. I have obtained a serpentine pulley[ 8 groove] for the LC itself but having trouble finding a replacement pulley 8 groove for the Yanmar crankshaft. I have no need of a 4 grand complete replacement alternator system as my Cerbo tells me the LC is cranking out over 2kw on bulk, so a simple pulley replacement would fill the bill. Any suggestions would be welcome. I am US based, currently in Greek waters Many thanks in advance George , on COCO, SM 434 |
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Re: Removing backstays
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Mark , I think you are being overcausious here. There is minimal, in fact I would think no risk in removing the backstays and mizzen topping lift. The lowers will provide the support needed during the lift. Either a halyard tied back once ashore or reapply the backstays will deal with a gale.
Kind Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
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Re: Removing backstays
While I have done this (as others have), it is certainly not my
first choice. Given a choice, I will always opt for a yard
with the equipment to properly lift the boat without removing the
back stays.
I think you need to ask yourself who is responsible if something
goes wrong and you agreed to the lifting procedure. And, how would
your insurance company respond should a failure occur.
Ask the yard if they are willing to accept ALL responsibility for
the lift. Then, you'll have your answer.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
On 8/26/2022 11:41 PM, Sarah &
Trevor McIlwaine wrote:
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Re: Removing backstays
Sarah & Trevor McIlwaine
Thank you all so much for the responses to this. Based on these I feel confident about removing the backstays for the lift next week. I guess I should’ve known that it wouldn’t be a problem being an Amel, even if she is getting on a bit!
Thanks again Trev and Sarah |
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Ballooner for Santorin
Clément Campeau
I just acquired a 1992 Santorin equipped with a ballooner. I have never used this sail. Could anyone run me through the setup process please.
The stay foil has 3 grooves and I have 2 baby poles and 2 longer poles. A picture would certainly help. I am currently sailing in Maine. Many thanks! Clement Campeau Santorin # 74 Alibi |
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Re: Fireproof material for mounting invertors and solar regulators on?
Daniel Alexander Thompson
Thank you Paul, Matt and Michelle.
I don't really understand why one would use G-10 in conjunction with a flame retardant paint; when FR-4 is available. What am i missing? Blessings |
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Re: Removing backstays
David Dickman
Hi Sarah, I just did this two weeks ago here in Houston. The travel lift was too short and I had to remove both the back stays, the SSB antennae, and the mizzen topping lift myself as the marina crew is not allowed to do it because of insurance. Here is what I did on my A54: a) mark with painters tape the top and bottom of each threaded rod just outside the open body of the turnbuckle on both stays before loosening either. This will allow you to tighten them back to the same point when reassembling them. b) take a strong line and span between the stantion eyes port and starboard aft of the mizzen to form a bridle (like a v). I just tied it with bowlines and used a 3/4" mooring line c) run a spar mizzen ballooner halyard to the "V" bridle and tighten to stabilze rig fore/aft before removing back stays (this will keep the adriatic stay in place) d) loosened the mizzen topping lift and dropped the mizzen boom to the deck, secured topping lift with a strayline to the stanchion e) tied a stray line through the turnbuckle and secured it under my leg so that if I dropped the turnbuckle it would not end up at the bottom of the marina. As you loosen the turnbuckle, this line will get wrapped around, but just stop every so often and unwind it. f) remove the turnbuckle pin (on my boat these are small 3mm bolts). g) loosened one turnbuckle until free at a time. I used a pair of channel locks to hold the threaded stay and a large flat blade screwdriver to twist the open turnbuckle body (this is how the riggers do it at Caraibe Marine in Martinique also). h) secured the free stay to the "V" bridle with a bungee cord i) repeat on other side of boat. they then hauled the boat and blocked it for 3 days while 2 new sensors (DST and sonar) were installed and glassed in. When the boat was launched, I reversed the process by starting with the turnbuckles first. Tightened them until each reached the tape on the threads on each side. Then replaced the mizzen topping lift and antennae. then once all was secure, removed the mizzen balooner halyard and "V" bridle. Replaced the turnbuckle pins. We went sailing the next day for about 8 hours and all was fine. Hope that helps.... David Galini A54 #100 On Sat, Aug 27, 2022 at 4:41 AM Sarah & Trevor McIlwaine <Ourbigboatyadventure@...> wrote:
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Re: Removing backstays
Bill Kinney
Sarah & Trev,
What your yard is asking is the normal procedure for any travelift smaller than about 100 tons capacity. Without doing this the backstays will hit the crossbar on the back of the lift. It is not unusual to have the same issue with the mizzen topping lift. To handle that we release the mizzen sheet, swing the boom to one side, and tie it off as high as it can be lifted. This keeps everything clear. Your lower shrouds will have no trouble keeping your mast vertical without sails pulling on it. We typically leave the backstays undone until we are back in the water again, but certainly you could reattach them once the boat is blocked in place, or even just reset the topping lift and sheet. With the sheet snugged up that will add support from the aft side of the mizzen mast. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Port Louis, Grenada http://www.cruisingconsulting.com |
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Re: Removing backstays
Hi Sarah and Trev,
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Show quoted text
If the travel lift is not a really big one I have to do the same on my 54. In Leros, where I am currently based, I have to remove the mizzen topping lift, backstays and lash them out of the way forward, every time. Three times a year. You do not need to worry about the mast it is well enough stayed. Then when you are chocked up ashore and the crane has gone you can set them up again. I only do it hand tight plus a couple of turns whilst ashore. As you have to do the same again to launch. It actually only takes a few minutes. The topping lift is the trickiest. I have spliced a long tail to it so it can be just pulled through without having to re-reave it every time… Nick S/Y Amelia Aml 54-019 Leros Gr
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Re: Removing backstays
Hello. We were lifted at Portimao and, yes, we released the mizzen back stays. Not a problem. The lifting crew are very professional. They did a very good job. Contact me if you need more details. Victor Alendoy SM314 |
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Re: Removing backstays
Before removing the backstays, if you have additional allyard(s) at your mizzen mast for a mizzen jib, tack it (them) to cleat(s) aft of the mizzen and it will secure it. I have done this a few times on my A54 with no problem.
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Louis On Aug 27, 2022, at 12:41, Sarah & Trevor McIlwaine <Ourbigboatyadventure@...> wrote:
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Removing backstays
Sarah & Trevor McIlwaine
Hi there, The mast & rigging are to the original specification (we believe), so straight spreaders and check stays for the mizzen mast. Any and all hints and tips are gratefully received. |
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