Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Burned Out Headsail Furling Motor

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Jay,

Good luck with the motor...I am sure that you can get it repaired. Are you sure that it is the motor and not the cable?

Also, with very few exceptions, I believe and I teach that when entering a berth, travel lift area, dock, fuel dock, etc. the safest method is in reverse in a Maramu (with a bow thruster), Satorin, Super Maramu, 54, 55, and 64.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970





Re: Burned Out Headsail Furling Motor

Craig Briggs
 

Try backing into the Travel Lift :-)

Craig, SN68 Sangaris


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Burned Out Headsail Furling Motor

Mark Erdos
 

Jay,

 

Sorry, I can’t help on an electric motor source but electric motors can normally be repaired by local companies. We had a main sail furling motor rebuilt by a local Florida repair shop and have it as a spare. Shops are all over the USA.

 

In the future, rather than disconnect the headstay, back into the lift and disconnect the backstays. This is much easier.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising – Puerto Rico

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 10:19 AM
To: Amel Owners
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Burned Out Headsail Furling Motor

 

 

Hi Amels Owners,

 

I have run into a bit of an issue with my headsail furling motor. At my local marina, the headstay needs to come off to accommodate the travel lift. After doing this several times the wiring to the headsail furling motor pushed the wire leads together causing the headsail motor to burn. I have the motor off and the Bosch 0136350008 is no longer available. Pasco wants to charge $1500 to rebuild it, which isn't an option because I would like a spare. 

 

Does anybody know where to buy a new replacement motor that would fit? I have tried calling Bamar dealers and DC motor providers to no avail.

 

Thank you in advance,

Jay Wagamon

S/V Hobo Tiempo, Mango #60


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fresh Water Pressure

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Paul,

That 66b pump is a very good pump, lasting up to 10-12 years before needing a rebuild kit (from only Amel). The pump is no longer made, but when it was available, it cost about 500-600 euro.

In order of probability your problem is most likely:
  1. Accumulator Tank:. Check it by turning OFF the breaker, opening the Tap to relieve pressure, and using a bicycle pressure gauge check the internal pressure at the tire-like valve on the tank...it is usually covered with a plastic cap. The internal pressure should = 15% less than the cut-off pressure of the pump. If the pressure is zero, or low, use a bicycle pump to increase...do not over pump...wait 1 hour before turning on the breaker and check the pressure...if it is the same, the accumulator tank is OK, if not, order one from Amel.
  2. One Way Valve: Remove it (see photo or drawing) and inspect it to ensure it is working correctly. before you remove it, mark its orientation because if you install it reversed, it will never work.
  3. The Square D pressure switch which is difficult to adjust without experience. Google it for more info.
  4. Some other issue
When was that pump last rebuilt?

You probably need someone to train you on Amel systems. Is the original owner available? Did you buy your Amel from Joel Potter?

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: adapter / connection shore power us

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Bill,

Just to add to the topic, here is the reply from: Shad Doughty
Technical Service Representative 800.307.6702 direct
technical@marinco.com 
    tsusa.marine@mastervolt.com
“You could try a reverse Y but I would suggest talking to the marina to see if they have split phase power”

Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 6/12/17, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@svbebe.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: adapter / connection shore power us
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Monday, June 12, 2017, 9:33 AM


 









Gary and Alex,
This really gets confusing. You
are both right, sort-of.
But, when marinas have 220VAC 60htz
50 amp connections available, you should use it to avoid
potential mistakes...and you should be 100% sure of how to
connect.
When Alex was
advised about "Phase" I am 99% sure that what they
were telling him is that each 110-115VAC in the US (30 amp
connector) is actually 1 of the 2 legs of the 220VAC 60htz
available from the US type single phase power
mains. 
You need to
"Y" 2 different legs of the US type 220VAC
60htz to provide 220VAC 60htz power, If the each of the 2 US
type 30 amp sides of the Y adapter were connected to the
same leg of the 220VAC 60htz main, you will NOT have 220VAC
60htz.

To explain it in color: The US type
220VAC 60htz is color coded this way:Red
= 110-115VAC 60htzBlack = 110-115VAC
60htzWhite = NeutralBare copper =
EarthWhen the "Y" adapter is used
to connect to US type 30 amp connections, each 30 amp
connector of the Y has to connect this
way:1st side of the
Y:RedWhiteBare
Copper2nd side of the
YBlackWhiteBare
CopperOf course this gets further confusing
because if you were to open the box for the US 30 amp type
connector you would find only Black, White and Bare copper.
You find this because when using only one leg of 220VAC, the
color code used should be Black, White and Bare
Copper.
From my
rudimentary explanation you should either get it, or
understand that you need to be very very careful and if yo
don't get it, hire a qualified
electrician.
Best,
CW
Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX
77550
+1(832)
380-4970














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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fresh Water Pressure [1 Attachment]

paul schofield <pwschofield@...>
 

Thank you Alan and Bill for your quick responses.  Batteries were new last Summer and are currently on the charger. 

 

Bill, I agree with you that I most likely have the 66B as your attachment matches my paperwork on board.  Also, the pump appears to match the drawings.  I cannot locate on the pump itself the part number. 

 

Assuming pump is the same, any way to troubleshoot either accumulator tank or one-way valve?  

 

Thanks again.

 

Paul

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 10:10 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fresh Water Pressure [1 Attachment]

 

 

[Attachment(s) from Bill & Judy Rouse included below]

Paul,

 

It depends on what pump you have installed. 

 

Your Amel most likely came with a A.M.F.A. (Reya) #66B fresh water pump and attached stainless steel accumulator tank. If you have the original equipment your Pressure answer is about 1.75 to 2 bar. Also pump cycle time depends on whether you have the OEM accumulator tank and whether it is working and whether the Square D pressure switch is adjusted correctly...this is difficult to get right the first time that you attempt to adjust. Another cause of extended run times is leakage past the one-way valve.

 

I have attached a page from my Amel School Book which shows the OEM pump and a blow-up of the one-way valve. Is this the pump? If you do not have the OEM pump, check with the pump manufacturer.

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School 
www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 6:57 AM, pwschofield@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello to all.  Can you please tell me at what pressure the fresh water pressure cut-off switch should stop the pump.  The boat is new to us and I'm just starting to get familiar with the systems.  We arrived aboard after 4 months away and the water pump seems to be running a long time, compared to what I remember, bringing the system up to pressure.  We are getting pressure at the faucets even after the pump is turned off so I assume pump and expansion tanks are not an issue.  The system seems to be holding pressure as I continue to get water pressure at the faucets hours after the pump has been run.  One of the concerns I have is that the gauge at the accumulator does not appear to move while the pump is running.  Seems like it doesn't get higher than 20 psi.   Glass is broken on the gauge, so yes, a new gauge is in order.  Another gauge in the system just above the fresh water pump next to, what appears to be an inline regulator, shows 1.6-1.8 bar.

 

Just concerned at running the pump too long for either fear of burning it out or over pressurizing the system and causing damage. 

 

Thank you for your help

 

Paul

SV Trillium

SM 215

Brunswick, GA

 

 

 


Re: fresh water pressure

Gary Wells
 

One thing that caused my pump to run for lengthy periods was simply a kink in the intake hose.
When the pump came one, the suction would squeeze it down enough to restrict the flow causing longer run times.
New hoses and verifying the pickup wasn't partially blocked solved it.

Gary W
S/V Adagio, SM209
Patmos


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fresh Water Pressure [1 Attachment]

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I attached the wrong page...here it is.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970




On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 9:10 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
[Attachment(s) from Bill & Judy Rouse included below]

Paul,

It depends on what pump you have installed. 

Your Amel most likely came with a A.M.F.A. (Reya) #66B fresh water pump and attached stainless steel accumulator tank. If you have the original equipment your Pressure answer is about 1.75 to 2 bar. Also pump cycle time depends on whether you have the OEM accumulator tank and whether it is working and whether the Square D pressure switch is adjusted correctly...this is difficult to get right the first time that you attempt to adjust. Another cause of extended run times is leakage past the one-way valve.

I have attached a page from my Amel School Book which shows the OEM pump and a blow-up of the one-way valve. Is this the pump? If you do not have the OEM pump, check with the pump manufacturer.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970






On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 6:57 AM, pwschofield@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hello to all.  Can you please tell me at what pressure the fresh water pressure cut-off switch should stop the pump.  The boat is new to us and I'm just starting to get familiar with the systems.  We arrived aboard after 4 months away and the water pump seems to be running a long time, compared to what I remember, bringing the system up to pressure.  We are getting pressure at the faucets even after the pump is turned off so I assume pump and expansion tanks are not an issue.  The system seems to be holding pressure as I continue to get water pressure at the faucets hours after the pump has been run.  One of the concerns I have is that the gauge at the accumulator does not appear to move while the pump is running.  Seems like it doesn't get higher than 20 psi.   Glass is broken on the gauge, so yes, a new gauge is in order.  Another gauge in the system just above the fresh water pump next to, what appears to be an inline regulator, shows 1.6-1.8 bar.


Just concerned at running the pump too long for either fear of burning it out or over pressurizing the system and causing damage. 

Thank you for your help

Paul
SV Trillium
SM 215
Brunswick, GA





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: adapter / connection shore power us

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gary and Alex,

This really gets confusing. You are both right, sort-of.

But, when marinas have 220VAC 60htz 50 amp connections available, you should use it to avoid potential mistakes...and you should be 100% sure of how to connect.

When Alex was advised about "Phase" I am 99% sure that what they were telling him is that each 110-115VAC in the US (30 amp connector) is actually 1 of the 2 legs of the 220VAC 60htz available from the US type single phase power mains. 

You need to "Y" 2 different legs of the US type 220VAC 60htz to provide 220VAC 60htz power, If the each of the 2 US type 30 amp sides of the Y adapter were connected to the same leg of the 220VAC 60htz main, you will NOT have 220VAC 60htz.

To explain it in color: The US type 220VAC 60htz is color coded this way:
  • Red = 110-115VAC 60htz
  • Black = 110-115VAC 60htz
  • White = Neutral
  • Bare copper = Earth
When the "Y" adapter is used to connect to US type 30 amp connections, each 30 amp connector of the Y has to connect this way:
1st side of the Y:
  • Red
  • White
  • Bare Copper
2nd side of the Y
  • Black
  • White
  • Bare Copper
Of course this gets further confusing because if you were to open the box for the US 30 amp type connector you would find only Black, White and Bare copper. You find this because when using only one leg of 220VAC, the color code used should be Black, White and Bare Copper.

From my rudimentary explanation you should either get it, or understand that you need to be very very careful and if yo don't get it, hire a qualified electrician.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970





Burned Out Headsail Furling Motor

J Wagam <jwagam@...>
 

Hi Amels Owners,

I have run into a bit of an issue with my headsail furling motor. At my local marina, the headstay needs to come off to accommodate the travel lift. After doing this several times the wiring to the headsail furling motor pushed the wire leads together causing the headsail motor to burn. I have the motor off and the Bosch 0136350008 is no longer available. Pasco wants to charge $1500 to rebuild it, which isn't an option because I would like a spare. 

Does anybody know where to buy a new replacement motor that would fit? I have tried calling Bamar dealers and DC motor providers to no avail.

Thank you in advance,
Jay Wagamon
S/V Hobo Tiempo, Mango #60


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fresh Water Pressure

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Paul,

It depends on what pump you have installed. 

Your Amel most likely came with a A.M.F.A. (Reya) #66B fresh water pump and attached stainless steel accumulator tank. If you have the original equipment your Pressure answer is about 1.75 to 2 bar. Also pump cycle time depends on whether you have the OEM accumulator tank and whether it is working and whether the Square D pressure switch is adjusted correctly...this is difficult to get right the first time that you attempt to adjust. Another cause of extended run times is leakage past the one-way valve.

I have attached a page from my Amel School Book which shows the OEM pump and a blow-up of the one-way valve. Is this the pump? If you do not have the OEM pump, check with the pump manufacturer.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970






On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 6:57 AM, pwschofield@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello to all.  Can you please tell me at what pressure the fresh water pressure cut-off switch should stop the pump.  The boat is new to us and I'm just starting to get familiar with the systems.  We arrived aboard after 4 months away and the water pump seems to be running a long time, compared to what I remember, bringing the system up to pressure.  We are getting pressure at the faucets even after the pump is turned off so I assume pump and expansion tanks are not an issue.  The system seems to be holding pressure as I continue to get water pressure at the faucets hours after the pump has been run.  One of the concerns I have is that the gauge at the accumulator does not appear to move while the pump is running.  Seems like it doesn't get higher than 20 psi.   Glass is broken on the gauge, so yes, a new gauge is in order.  Another gauge in the system just above the fresh water pump next to, what appears to be an inline regulator, shows 1.6-1.8 bar.


Just concerned at running the pump too long for either fear of burning it out or over pressurizing the system and causing damage. 

Thank you for your help

Paul
SV Trillium
SM 215
Brunswick, GA




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: adapter / connection shore power us

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Gary,

Before I went to Tortola, I asked using that specific part to Marinco and was advised not to use this because of the Phase.


Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Island Water World Marina, Sint Maarten, NA




--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 6/9/17, Gary Wells gary@sunshineduo.us [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] re: adapter / connection shore power us
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, June 9, 2017, 11:52 PM


 









If the marina only has 30A 110v connectors you can
combine two of them using a"Y" connector that then
provides 220v.

The marinas I have stayed at that only have 30a at the post
generally can provide these "Y" combiner adapters,
as 220v 50a is a pretty common U.S. need.



Here's one:

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/marinco--reverse-y-adapter-2-30a-male-to-1-50a-female--10072957?recordNum=38



Gary W.

S/V Adagio​

Patmos


New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,


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a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.


File : /AutoPilot Tech Info & Maint./S3G.odt
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Re: Fresh Water Pressure

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Paul ,

What is the state of your batteries ?
If the battery bank voltage is low, the FW pump may not have enough power to attain the high pressure setting and therefore run continuously .....you can ask me how I know that !
Normally the pressure switch is set around 20- 40 psi...i.e cut in at 20 ...cut out at 40, but it is adjustable and someone may have adjusted it differently
The broken glass on your gauge may, but normally wouldn't, affect its function.
Cheers
Alan 
Elyse SM437


Re: Rudder Sensor

Duane Siegfri
 

I called Raymarine and they gave me the following checks to test the rudder sensor, I thought they might be helpful to someone in the future.

TEST THE RUDDER SENSOR
1)  Turn power off to the S3G.  
2)  Remove the wires labeled "Rudder" from the S3G Course Computer.  You'll need a small screwdriver to press on the white tab just above the wire.  That will release the wire.  Take care the screwdriver does not slip and hit the circuit board behind it.
3)  Test the resistance between the:
Green and Red wires, should be 5K.
Green and Blue wires, should be between 1.7K and 3.3K depending on wheel position.
Red and Blue wires, should be between 1.7 and 3.3k depending on wheel position.
All resistances can be plus or minus 10% and be within specifications.

It turns out that my rudder sensor is within spec,it was 5.3 G/R, 2.13 to 3.4 G/B, and 3.4 to 2.13 R/B.  So it must be the S3 course computer I bought reconditioned.  I'm going to return that to the provider.

Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder Sensor

Symphony
 

Hi Duane,
There should be a rudder indicator test in the diagnostic and set-up section of the plotter.  It will check for the full voltage range of motion as well as polarity. Poke around in the menus to set up a new boat.

I had a very similar problem once and it turned out that the rudder position rheostat had a little dead zone if the wheel was hard hard over to Port. This would upset the sync. It was short term fixable by just turning the wheel hard over the other way and then centering again.

Best wishes,
Richard
Ex-Tartan 4100 now looking at Amel and some others. 

On Jun 12, 2017, at 7:25 AM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

It's tough to catch a break!  We recently had the S3G Course Computer go down.  The problem was diagnosed as a factory programming glitch that sends out a "kill" signal that shuts the unit down.  Raymarine had a software update available.


We bought a reconditioned one from Dan Gehrhardt and installed it and now the rudder sensor doesn't work.  I know for a fact it was working when I was eliminating possible problems with the S3G.  I installed the reconditioned one and then went through the rudder sensor wires twice more thinking I had a bad connection but still the rudder sensor is dead (no output to the ST7001).


I had Dan fix my old S3G and I'm going to install that one when we receive it to see if it might be the S3G that's the problem.


In the meantime, is there a way to determine if the rudder sensor is OK?  I'm guessing that the Black and Red wires are power from the S3G to the rudder sensor, and the green and blue wires are some kind of rheostat (believe me, I'm no electronics whiz!).  So if I hooked up a voltmeter to the green and blue should I expect a voltage?  Would the voltage change as the wheel is turned?


Any other ideas to check the rudder sensor?


Thanks,

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477


Fresh Water Pressure

pwschofield@...
 

Hello to all.  Can you please tell me at what pressure the fresh water pressure cut-off switch should stop the pump.  The boat is new to us and I'm just starting to get familiar with the systems.  We arrived aboard after 4 months away and the water pump seems to be running a long time, compared to what I remember, bringing the system up to pressure.  We are getting pressure at the faucets even after the pump is turned off so I assume pump and expansion tanks are not an issue.  The system seems to be holding pressure as I continue to get water pressure at the faucets hours after the pump has been run.  One of the concerns I have is that the gauge at the accumulator does not appear to move while the pump is running.  Seems like it doesn't get higher than 20 psi.   Glass is broken on the gauge, so yes, a new gauge is in order.  Another gauge in the system just above the fresh water pump next to, what appears to be an inline regulator, shows 1.6-1.8 bar.


Just concerned at running the pump too long for either fear of burning it out or over pressurizing the system and causing damage. 

Thank you for your help

Paul
SV Trillium
SM 215
Brunswick, GA



Rudder Sensor

Duane Siegfri
 

It's tough to catch a break!  We recently had the S3G Course Computer go down.  The problem was diagnosed as a factory programming glitch that sends out a "kill" signal that shuts the unit down.  Raymarine had a software update available.


We bought a reconditioned one from Dan Gehrhardt and installed it and now the rudder sensor doesn't work.  I know for a fact it was working when I was eliminating possible problems with the S3G.  I installed the reconditioned one and then went through the rudder sensor wires twice more thinking I had a bad connection but still the rudder sensor is dead (no output to the ST7001).


I had Dan fix my old S3G and I'm going to install that one when we receive it to see if it might be the S3G that's the problem.


In the meantime, is there a way to determine if the rudder sensor is OK?  I'm guessing that the Black and Red wires are power from the S3G to the rudder sensor, and the green and blue wires are some kind of rheostat (believe me, I'm no electronics whiz!).  So if I hooked up a voltmeter to the green and blue should I expect a voltage?  Would the voltage change as the wheel is turned?


Any other ideas to check the rudder sensor?


Thanks,

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] A/C pump hose, Outfitting for the Pacific

Patrick McAneny
 

Kent , We'll be here , stay for dinner , spend the night if it fits your schedule. Let us know.
Pat
SM #123


-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sun, Jun 11, 2017 9:43 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] A/C pump hose, Outfitting for the Pacific

 
Hi Pat.  Great to hear from you.
I'd love to see what you've done.  I'm going to NC on Wed to visit grandkids,back on Monday the next week.  Maybe I can drive over for a short visit?
Hi to Diane.
K

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
Panama cell: +507-61171896
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Jun 11, 2017, at 6:52 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Kent, Welcome back to the Bay , I just did all that except the hatch gaskets , which are on my list. If you up this way take a look at what we have done , its worked out well. If not maybe Diane and I could sail south meet up you somewhere.
Stay in touch,
Pat 
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Jun 11, 2017 12:47 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] A/C pump hose, Outfitting for the Pacific

 
Hi Amel cousins!
I hope you are all having a grand time where ever you are. I am back inSt Michaels,Maryland preparing Kristy for Pacific cruising in a year or so, and spending time with my new girlfriend, Iris.

I need to replace the input hose from the raw water manifold to the air conditioner pump. Does anyone know the internal diameter of that hose? It looks like it's probably over an inch (25mm).

Does anyone have suggestions about other upgrades or spares that I should have before I sail the Pacific?
I'm adding an arch/davits, Solar/?wind, new cockpit cover, replacing all hatch gaskets...

Thanks in advance.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Sloop rig santorin, Stainless steel bolts on the mast foot?

tfortner1975
 

Olivier, 

Just apologizing for misspelling your name. 

Cheers

On Jun 12, 2017, at 4:20 PM, tfortner1975@... wrote:

Oliver,

Thanks for that amazing explanation. I've recently purchased SN27 which is in fact 90/91 era.  She has the 4 bolts.  

Trevor 
SV Iris, SN27
Phuket - on the hard 

On Jun 12, 2017, at 3:40 PM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello,

yes there are several Santorins (probably only sloops) that have a main mast with a backing aluminum bar (inside the mast) at the front bottom, and bolted with 4 stainless steel bolts (with SS and nylon washers).
It happened once that one of the first Santorins (sloop but not the one our unknown writer talks about)  came back from its maiden cruising navigation with the front bottom part of the main mast collapsed. The aluminum had suffered too much compression and showed slight wrinkles.
The vessel was not showing grounding signs, and no evidence of a bad mast setting (installing the mastfoot not flat on deck, but too much on the front edge) was found.
The cause was probably the vessel beating in strong winds and choppy seas, AND a too thin skin at the bottom of the extrusion. Why only at the bottom?
For those who are not familiar with aluminum extrusion process, and to make it short:
In the aluminum factory, the aluminum alloy, warmed up (but not melting, otherwise this is cast aluminum), is pushed through a matrix with the shape of the mast's profile.
This "tube" is then rolling on roller bars and "strechted" to make it "straight" and not twisted or curved.
During the stretching process, it is possible that the thickness of the aluminum shows too thin areas, or too much curve, or too much twist. The extrusion is thus rejected and recycled.
The faulty mast was probably made of an extrusion that "escaped" the checking process.
So, AMEL decided to install a piece of aluminum of about 50 cm length, 2cm thickness, with the shape of the curved front face of the mast, inside the mast, stepped on the mast's sole, and bolted with 4 S/S bolts.
I cannot tell how many Santorins were treated by AMEL like this. However, this may concern the Santorins sloop with masts of the same batch. AMEL had extrusions made by 20 or 30 units, so this may affect only the Santorins  sloops delivered with masts of the same batch.
This means maybe only 7 or 8 Santorins sloops of 1990/1991.
Why only sloops? Because the compression is higher with a sloop as there is more sail area on the mast than on a kectch main mast.

I'm sure AMEL did the right thing when they (Captain Amel and Jacques Carteau) decided to make this reinforcement system.
Just like when AMEL decided to make a recall on all the AMEL 54 main masts...

Now, for those who own a Santorin sloop and read this post, I'm sure you will have a close look at your mast foot !!

Like Craig, I can't wait to know who set this question... I may give him a lot more answers about the whole vessel (this is called a survey).
And this is definitely the right behavior on this forum.

Olivier.


On Sunday, June 11, 2017 3:25 PM, "Ric Gottschalk ric@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
No bolts on my sloop mast foot. SN 24 1990

Ric Gottschalk
Kitchen Magic Refacers, Inc
Office 410-923-5800
Fax 410-923-5802

On Jun 11, 2017, at 9:02 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
I agree with Eric. Contact Olivier Beaute gmail.com>

I also agree with Craig...I do not believe those bolts are original.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970






On Sat, Jun 10, 2017 at 5:59 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
HI,
If you are considering this boat, why don’t you contact  Olivier to look at the boat?
He does not live too far away.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com [mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2017 6:22 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Sloop rig santorin, Stainless steel bolts on the mast foot?
 
 
Perhaps you could introduce yourself - are you shopping for an Amel? What's your name? home port, etc.
There are no bolts on the forward face of the original Santorin mast.
Craig, SN#68 Sangaris
Hi every body and thank you in advance for sharin your knowledge!
 
I have visited a 1991 sloop rigged Santorin in La Rochelle couple days ago.
The boat is fine. But i have been very surprised by discovering on the forward face of the mast foot three big stainless steel bolts.
Is it a standard feature?
What is its purpose?
The paint on the mast was tearing around these bolts, is this a sign of ss/aluminium bad neighbourhood?