Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rebedding original handrails

James Alton
 

Craig,
 
    Thanks for your response.  There are not any obvious fasteners anywhere on the handrail to remove so my problem is determining how it is fastened.  There is not any bulging of the fiberglass or any large amount of rust.  I removed the plastic plug at the end of one handrail and sighted the inside of the tube with a strong flashlight.  It appears that a stud may be welded to the bottom of the handrail but I cannot be sure. If so then perhaps there are nuts under the liner but I cannot feel any.  I hate to start cutting up the liner to investigate so I was hoping that someone knew how the handrails were fastened.
 
Best,
 
James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
Sardinia,  Italy
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Oct 11, 2016 2:54 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rebedding original handrails

 
James,
  I believe David is saying that the handrail bolts go into a steel (iron) threaded plate that is embedded in the fiberglass deck.  No bolts are involved. Amel used this technique in many ares, like the engine room hatch cover hinges and pneumatic piston mounts, the bases of many of the stancions, etc. 
  The problem is that if there is water ingress, the rust you see may be from the embedded iron starting to deteriorate and "bloom". That will eventually cause the fiberglass to expand with the surface bulging out or even opening up - I recall Bebe Bill and others had this issue with the engine room hatch cover at the piston mounts.  I had it with a stern stancion actually cracking the cap rail structure open;  
  So, preventive/corrective maintenance would be to remove the bolts, passivate the rusting internal plate, and "permanently" seal the bolts on reinstallation.  Dependin g on the degree of deterioration of the backing plate you may want to remove and replace it, although you'll have a challenging fiberglass repair job. Alternatively, one can drill out the rusted plate a good distance around the bolt hole, fill will epoxy (like JB Weld) and retap the threads.
  Having said that, you may just have some minor surface rust coming from the stainless hand rail base, that is of little concern and easily cleaned up.
Cheer, Craig, SN68 Sangaris


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 54 fresh water tank connections

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Mohammad, 

I missed that it was the gauge. Before you do anything, buy a new gauge and use some silicone tape on it. When my manifold stripped it was a brass fitting before the pressure switch...in other words, brass to brass. I am thinking the threads on the gauge stripped but maybe not the marine brass manifold.

I am sorry I missed that...please try a new guage and let me know.

Bill
BeBe #387

On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 2:22 PM, mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks again bill. It is surprising how you seem to have detailed information on most any topic that arises. I guess spending more than 10 years maintaining systems in an organized fashion does that. 


The pictures sent by Barry of Amel #016 that just had their systems serviced in Hyeres seems to suggest that we have the original connector/manifold installed on our 54. As you indicated, I think I tightened too much in order to get the gauge in the proper position and ended up stripping the threads. I do have and use JBWeld but since we are back in States for a few months, wanted a permanent solution. I do have an e-mail to Maude at Amel and waiting for her response.

Hoping that you will continue to contribute to this great forum in the future.

Thank you
Mohammad and Aty
Amel 54 #099
B&B Kokomo 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 54 fresh water tank connections

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Thanks again bill. It is surprising how you seem to have detailed information on most any topic that arises. I guess spending more than 10 years maintaining systems in an organized fashion does that. 

The pictures sent by Barry of Amel #016 that just had their systems serviced in Hyeres seems to suggest that we have the original connector/manifold installed on our 54. As you indicated, I think I tightened too much in order to get the gauge in the proper position and ended up stripping the threads. I do have and use JBWeld but since we are back in States for a few months, wanted a permanent solution. I do have an e-mail to Maude at Amel and waiting for her response.

Hoping that you will continue to contribute to this great forum in the future.

Thank you
Mohammad and Aty
Amel 54 #099
B&B Kokomo 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rebedding original handrails

Craig Briggs
 

James,
I wrote my reply before looking at my own cabin top hand rails and assumed they were fastened with bolts from the top like the stancion bases. Actually, mine have no bolts going in from the top and must be bolted from the bottom through the aft cabin overhead and then covered over with the vinyl headling, although I could not feel any bolt heads through the padding. Hmmm.  Pehaps the SM is different than the SN. I do have some very minor rust stains around the bases - must have the Admiral get on that.
Cheers, Craig

---In amelyachtowners@..., <sangaris@...> wrote :

James,
  I believe David is saying that the handrail bolts go into a steel (iron) threaded plate that is embedded in the fiberglass deck.  No bolts are involved. Amel used this technique in many ares, like the engine room hatch cover hinges and pneumatic piston mounts, the bases of many of the stancions, etc. 
  The problem is that if there is water ingress, the rust you see may be from the embedded iron starting to deteriorate and "bloom". That will eventually cause the fiberglass to expand with the surface bulging out or even opening up - I recall Bebe Bill and others had this issue with the engine room hatch cover at the piston mounts.  I had it with a stern stancion actually cracking the cap rail structure open;  
  So, preventive/corrective maintenance would be to remove the bolts, passivate the rusting internal plate, and "permanently" seal the bolts on reinstallation.  Depending on the degree of deterioration of the backing plate you may want to remove and replace it, although you'll have a challenging fiberglass repair job. Alternatively, one can drill out the rusted plate a good distance around the bolt hole, fill will epoxy (like JB Weld) and retap the threads.
  Having said that, you may just have some minor surface rust coming from the stainless hand rail base, that is of little concern and easily cleaned up.
Cheer, Craig, SN68 Sangaris


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 54 fresh water tank connections

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Mohammed,

You might take a look at the revised photo which shows the reverse side of my original photo.

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/364756240/lightbox/1422151489?orderBy=ordinal&sortOrder=asc&photoFilter=ALL#zax/1422151489

Bill
BeBe 387

On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 1:51 PM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
Mohammed,

I believe that with great confidence that I can tell you that you are in need of Part Number 036710 from Reya or A.M.F.A.

A.M.F.A. was an independent company bought by Reya. I do not think that the pump you have is made any longer and you will have difficulty finding the part that you need. The two most common pumps that I have seen in Amel 53 and 54's are the Reya/A.M.F.A. 66B (which I have) and the higher capacity 40B (I think that is the correct number). I believe that you have the 40B.

The part that you need is a marine brass manifold. The good news is that it is the same part, regardless which pump you have. Take a look at the photo here:


Yes, you are correct that the smaller (3/8" 10mm) hole only has about 3 threads and if you overtighten at this point, you will certainly strip the threads in this manifold. 

I was able to find a manifold in the storeroom at Amel Martinique because, although mine is not leaking now, I over tightened and partially stripped those threads. Before I found the replacement I repaired the manifold with an American epoxy repair product called JB Weld. It has held with no dripping and I have elected to replace the manifold the next time I do anything on that pump.

These two pumps, the 66B and 40B, are amazing pumps and worth keeping. The places that I would look for a replacement manifold are:
  • Emek in Turkey
  • Amel (if you can find someone to look through their used parts for you)
  • This Group - because I know that a number of owners have chosen to replace the Amel installed pump with something else.
The photo I uploaded will help you find the part that you need.

I hope this helps you.

Best,

Bill
BeBe 387

On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 9:41 AM, mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Thank you Barry. The pictures will definitely help. We also had to replace the rubber bladder (purchased in Lesvos Greece) and the pressure switch (purchased in Turkey), The replacement was not a difficult task, but the removal and replacement caused the tapped fitting to be stripped. The fitting that you have seems the same as ours. So maybe my assumption that this was a replacement fitting was incorrect.


Thanks Again
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 54 fresh water tank connections

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Mohammed,

I believe that with great confidence that I can tell you that you are in need of Part Number 036710 from Reya or A.M.F.A.

A.M.F.A. was an independent company bought by Reya. I do not think that the pump you have is made any longer and you will have difficulty finding the part that you need. The two most common pumps that I have seen in Amel 53 and 54's are the Reya/A.M.F.A. 66B (which I have) and the higher capacity 40B (I think that is the correct number). I believe that you have the 40B.

The part that you need is a marine brass manifold. The good news is that it is the same part, regardless which pump you have. Take a look at the photo here:


Yes, you are correct that the smaller (3/8" 10mm) hole only has about 3 threads and if you overtighten at this point, you will certainly strip the threads in this manifold. 

I was able to find a manifold in the storeroom at Amel Martinique because, although mine is not leaking now, I over tightened and partially stripped those threads. Before I found the replacement I repaired the manifold with an American epoxy repair product called JB Weld. It has held with no dripping and I have elected to replace the manifold the next time I do anything on that pump.

These two pumps, the 66B and 40B, are amazing pumps and worth keeping. The places that I would look for a replacement manifold are:
  • Emek in Turkey
  • Amel (if you can find someone to look through their used parts for you)
  • This Group - because I know that a number of owners have chosen to replace the Amel installed pump with something else.
The photo I uploaded will help you find the part that you need.

I hope this helps you.

Best,

Bill
BeBe 387

On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 9:41 AM, mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thank you Barry. The pictures will definitely help. We also had to replace the rubber bladder (purchased in Lesvos Greece) and the pressure switch (purchased in Turkey), The replacement was not a difficult task, but the removal and replacement caused the tapped fitting to be stripped. The fitting that you have seems the same as ours. So maybe my assumption that this was a replacement fitting was incorrect.


Thanks Again
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099



Re: amel super marameu

mimtsqwbzz5xbfai4gco4otu3lpigperpq6qnatm@...
 

Hi we have looked at Santorin, there are one or two well priced in France
Please send me more info and pics please.
Regards
Steve


Re: amel super marameu

mimtsqwbzz5xbfai4gco4otu3lpigperpq6qnatm@...
 

Hi Alexandre,
                     We are in SA, the fact that we intend to sail in several countries vat paid is not a major issue.
We jsut looked an Amel vat unpaid in the carribean very well priced but we just missed out on that one the couple had been sailing for 10 yrs.
But thanks for the heads up always good to have advice.
Regards
Steve


Re: amel super marameu

mimtsqwbzz5xbfai4gco4otu3lpigperpq6qnatm@...
 

Hi Sorry for the currency slip up, we are looking at Euro's .


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 54 fresh water tank connections

Barry Connor
 

Hi Mohammed,
Yes, we have the original fittings on the fresh water pressure pump.
Olivier said to always where possible keep everything original, what you think might not mean much can change something else.
We did though change the A/C cooling pump when Hyeres were out of stock, we got a 230v Marsh magnetic drive unit from Florida, it is silent works OK so far and does not get hot. I am looking at changing the 12v Surflow refrigeration cooling pumps with a 12v Marsh magnetic pump. I will make sure the A/C pump is OK first. These magnetic Marsh pumps do not have a drive shaft that could leak. I could only find them in US not available in EU.
Regards

Barry and Penny
AMEL 54 #16
"Lady Penelope II"
Marina Di Ragusa
Sicily


On Oct 11, 2016, at 3:41 PM, mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thank you Barry. The pictures will definitely help. We also had to replace the rubber bladder (purchased in Lesvos Greece) and the pressure switch (purchased in Turkey), The replacement was not a difficult task, but the removal and replacement caused the tapped fitting to be stripped. The fitting that you have seems the same as ours. So maybe my assumption that this was a replacement fitting was incorrect.


Thanks Again
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099


Re: Amel 54 fresh water tank connections

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Thank you Barry. The pictures will definitely help. We also had to replace the rubber bladder (purchased in Lesvos Greece) and the pressure switch (purchased in Turkey), The replacement was not a difficult task, but the removal and replacement caused the tapped fitting to be stripped. The fitting that you have seems the same as ours. So maybe my assumption that this was a replacement fitting was incorrect.

Thanks Again
Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rebedding original handrails

Craig Briggs
 

James,
  I believe David is saying that the handrail bolts go into a steel (iron) threaded plate that is embedded in the fiberglass deck.  No bolts are involved. Amel used this technique in many ares, like the engine room hatch cover hinges and pneumatic piston mounts, the bases of many of the stancions, etc. 
  The problem is that if there is water ingress, the rust you see may be from the embedded iron starting to deteriorate and "bloom". That will eventually cause the fiberglass to expand with the surface bulging out or even opening up - I recall Bebe Bill and others had this issue with the engine room hatch cover at the piston mounts.  I had it with a stern stancion actually cracking the cap rail structure open;  
  So, preventive/corrective maintenance would be to remove the bolts, passivate the rusting internal plate, and "permanently" seal the bolts on reinstallation.  Depending on the degree of deterioration of the backing plate you may want to remove and replace it, although you'll have a challenging fiberglass repair job. Alternatively, one can drill out the rusted plate a good distance around the bolt hole, fill will epoxy (like JB Weld) and retap the threads.
  Having said that, you may just have some minor surface rust coming from the stainless hand rail base, that is of little concern and easily cleaned up.
Cheer, Craig, SN68 Sangaris


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Keel repair: Now or later?

Mark Pitt
 

Bill and Joel,

  Thanks for the reply.  Yes, the iron itself seems dented.  I cannot detect any other issue associated with this incident except my nightmarish recollection of the terrible noise that resulted when I steered the boat I love into an underwater rock at about 3 knots.

Mark Pitt

Sabbatical III, ASM #419, Carloforte, Isola San Pietro, Italy


On 10/11/2016 1:37 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
Mark,

I think it is probably impossible for someone to assess your situation without an inspection and the expertise to evaluate the entire situation, but I will offer a non-expert comment.

The best thing about the keel on Amels is that it is cast iron. From what I have seen, cast iron will oxidize in saltwater and the oxidation will partially and temporarily seal the iron...but saltwater will continue to slowly creep under the epoxy and cause the area of oxidation to increase. From what I have seen, I think a delay of 6 months to recoat the cast iron with epoxy is not an issue. I do wonder if the iron itself is dented?

But, let me further comment. Recently, at Peakes in Trinidad, I saw an X Yacht (55-60') which had hit something with its epoxy encapsulated lead keel. Not only was the keel deformed, and epoxy cracked, but the lead was also cracked in the center and back edge of the keel. I assume that the back edge cracked because of compression from the front collision. I could not believe that the owner had only the epoxy repaired over the cracks in the lead. I hope that there is not a plan to sell this boat to new owners.

Epoxy-coated cast iron is sometimes criticized by non-Amel owners because of it will oxidize when the epoxy is cracked. This is true about our keels, but an epoxy encapsulated lead keel will deform, crack and possibly have disastrous consequences. Thank you Henri Amel for your knowledge and your choice of cast iron.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 6:59 AM, mark_pitt@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I hit a rock and put a small-ish dent on the front of the iron keel.  It seems to have broken through the epoxy and exposed the iron in a 6 inch by 2 inch  (15 cm by 5 cm)  section.  My question is whether I need to have this repaired now or can I wait until Spring when the boat is due to be hauled for a new anti-fouling,


Mark Pitt

Sabbatical III, ASM #419, Carloforte, Isola San Pietro, Italy





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Keel repair: Now or later?

amelforme
 

Hi Mark. Based on closely examining hundreds of AMEL keels during the haul out for marine survey during the sales process, I have rarely seen a keel where the coatings were completely intact. In a perfect world, it is always best to fix anything as soon as possible. In this case, you might have a slight increase of the size of repair, but negligible loss of metal through oxidation. Remember, on iron, the rate of ‘bloom’ to metal loss is about 40/1. While the keel might look scary when you haul, it can be repaired in the spring without real consequence.

 

Have Fun With Your Amel

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

954 462 5869 office

954 812 2485 cell

 

.

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 6:59 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Keel repair: Now or later?

 

 

I hit a rock and put a small-ish dent on the front of the iron keel.  It seems to have broken through the epoxy and exposed the iron in a 6 inch by 2 inch  (15 cm by 5 cm)  section.  My question is whether I need to have this repaired now or can I wait until Spring when the boat is due to be hauled for a new anti-fouling,

 

Mark Pitt

Sabbatical III, ASM #419, Carloforte, Isola San Pietro, Italy

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Keel repair: Now or later?

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Mark,

I think it is probably impossible for someone to assess your situation without an inspection and the expertise to evaluate the entire situation, but I will offer a non-expert comment.

The best thing about the keel on Amels is that it is cast iron. From what I have seen, cast iron will oxidize in saltwater and the oxidation will partially and temporarily seal the iron...but saltwater will continue to slowly creep under the epoxy and cause the area of oxidation to increase. From what I have seen, I think a delay of 6 months to recoat the cast iron with epoxy is not an issue. I do wonder if the iron itself is dented?

But, let me further comment. Recently, at Peakes in Trinidad, I saw an X Yacht (55-60') which had hit something with its epoxy encapsulated lead keel. Not only was the keel deformed, and epoxy cracked, but the lead was also cracked in the center and back edge of the keel. I assume that the back edge cracked because of compression from the front collision. I could not believe that the owner had only the epoxy repaired over the cracks in the lead. I hope that there is not a plan to sell this boat to new owners.

Epoxy-coated cast iron is sometimes criticized by non-Amel owners because of it will oxidize when the epoxy is cracked. This is true about our keels, but an epoxy encapsulated lead keel will deform, crack and possibly have disastrous consequences. Thank you Henri Amel for your knowledge and your choice of cast iron.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 6:59 AM, mark_pitt@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I hit a rock and put a small-ish dent on the front of the iron keel.  It seems to have broken through the epoxy and exposed the iron in a 6 inch by 2 inch  (15 cm by 5 cm)  section.  My question is whether I need to have this repaired now or can I wait until Spring when the boat is due to be hauled for a new anti-fouling,


Mark Pitt

Sabbatical III, ASM #419, Carloforte, Isola San Pietro, Italy




Keel repair: Now or later?

Mark Pitt
 

I hit a rock and put a small-ish dent on the front of the iron keel.  It seems to have broken through the epoxy and exposed the iron in a 6 inch by 2 inch  (15 cm by 5 cm)  section.  My question is whether I need to have this repaired now or can I wait until Spring when the boat is due to be hauled for a new anti-fouling,


Mark Pitt

Sabbatical III, ASM #419, Carloforte, Isola San Pietro, Italy



Amel 54 fresh water tank connections

Barry Connor
 

Hi Mohammed,
I hope that these photos of the pressure switch and indicator gauge help you.
We have just had the rubber inside tank bladder and pressure switch replaced at AMEL Hyeres.
They set the tank pressure for the rubber bladder at 1.8bar.
Best Regards
Barry and Penny
AMEL 54 #16
Marina Di Ragusa. Sicily


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Here is the vetus switch Windlass switch

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Do make sure that the threaded section is long enough to reach through the hole in the Lofrans. 4 years ago  Amel in Hyeres gave us two but they were too short.


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Hyeres


From: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: 11 October 2016 02:28:12
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Here is the vetus switch Windlass switch
 

 

 

I hope the photo comes through. It is exactly what Amel used.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

Regards,

 

 

David Barrett

Technical Support/Customer Service

 

 

From: sailormon [mailto:kimberlite@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 2:02 PM
To: David Barrett
Subject: RE: Engine mount

 

Hi David,

I purchased a few large push button switches from Vetus a few years ago.

They were about ¾ of an inch in diameter and had a black rubber cap.

Are they in the catalog?

Thanks

Eric

rinting this e-mail.


[Amel Yacht Owners] Here is the vetus switch Windlass switch

Eric Freedman
 

 

 

I hope the photo comes through. It is exactly what Amel used.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

Regards,

 

 

David Barrett

Technical Support/Customer Service

 

 

From: sailormon [mailto:kimberlite@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 2:02 PM
To: David Barrett
Subject: RE: Engine mount

 

Hi David,

I purchased a few large push button switches from Vetus a few years ago.

They were about ¾ of an inch in diameter and had a black rubber cap.

Are they in the catalog?

Thanks

Eric

rinting this e-mail.


Here is the vetus switch Windlass switch

Eric Freedman
 

I hope the photo comes through. It is exactly what Amel used.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: David Barrett [mailto:DBarrett@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 1:46 PM
To: sailormon
Subject: RE: Windlass switch

 

$52.  List              

 

Regards,

 

 

David Barrett

Technical Support/Customer Service

 

 

From: sailormon [mailto:kimberlite@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 1:21 PM
To: David Barrett
Subject: RE: Windlass switch

 

Thanks Dave,

What is the list price?

I will order a few from a distributor.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: David Barrett [mailto:DBarrett@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 9:55 AM
To: sailormon
Subject: RE: Windlass switch

 

It does not appear to be in the catalog any longer, so it may be a product slowly on its way out.  It was largely a Vetus windlass product, and with the changeover to Maxwell branded windlasses for the past 6 or so years, I can understand why it might be de-emphasized or discontinued.

 

We do currently have stock here in the States – I suspect this availability will diminish in the not too distant future.

 

Regards,

 

 

David Barrett

Technical Support/Customer Service

 

 

From: sailormon [mailto:kimberlite@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 10:42 PM
To: David Barrett
Subject: Windlass switch

 

Hi David,

That’s the one .

What page is it on in the catalog?

Thanks

Eric

 

 

From: David Barrett [mailto:DBarrett@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 2:54 PM
To: sailormon
Subject: RE: Engine mount

 

Eric-

 

Try AFSTPB.  These could be for a windlass or a thruster.

 

 

Regards,

 

 

David Barrett

Technical Support/Customer Service

 

 

From: sailormon [mailto:kimberlite@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 2:02 PM
To: David Barrett
Subject: RE: Engine mount

 

Hi David,

I purchased a few large push button switches from Vetus a few years ago.

They were about ¾ of an inch in diameter and had a black rubber cap.

Are they in the catalog?

Thanks

Eric

rinting this e-mail.