Date   

locked Re: Engine troubles in Sardegna

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Kimberly. All the cooling fluid in the bilge? Check all hoses and hose connections, simple stuff. Connections to the heat exchanger. I would doubt it is a pump failure. Hoses do split, particularly when they are old. Hose clips can rust and hoses come off, O rings get old and fail.
Fill the coolant tank, run the engine sitting in the engine room and see where the coolant is leaking from. I recently had a coolant hose come off on my genset engine. Fortunately I saw the coolant sloshing around where it shouldn't be so it was no big deal/
Kind Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

On 05/06/2022 20:28 Kimberly Bunch via groups.io <kimberlybunch@...> wrote:


Hi all,

We have the Maramu #98 1981 with the infamous, invincible "Mr Perkins" engine, 4.154 M. Well, he's overheated on us  ( the alarm didn't sound and luckily my husband just happened tobe looking at the temperature gauge next to the helm). After replacing the cooling fluid, and motoring a short time to get to safety, the next day all the coolant had drained into the bilge! 

We think it's probably the water pump in the cooling system that needs to be replaced. My husband is planning to order another water pump from Perkins suppliers in the UK and have it shipped to us here in Olbia, Italy. Then he'll attempt to refit it correctly. He's not an engine mechanic and we are a bit worried to ask someone here to do it, knowing that there are very few mechanics working with Perkins motors at all.

So, I am asking for any advice that will help us do the job please. Or if anyone has a mechanic they know in Olbia or nearby in Sardegna ( long shot I know!)

Also, the cover for the place where you add the coolant has just broken! Does anyone know of someone who has replaced their engine but kept parts like this? 

We are so disappointed as we are midway on our trip from France to Greece 😥 any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Kimberly SV Kujira Maramu #98



 


locked Engine troubles in Sardegna

Kimberly Bunch
 

Hi all,

We have the Maramu #98 1981 with the infamous, invincible "Mr Perkins" engine, 4.154 M. Well, he's overheated on us  ( the alarm didn't sound and luckily my husband just happened tobe looking at the temperature gauge next to the helm). After replacing the cooling fluid, and motoring a short time to get to safety, the next day all the coolant had drained into the bilge! 

We think it's probably the water pump in the cooling system that needs to be replaced. My husband is planning to order another water pump from Perkins suppliers in the UK and have it shipped to us here in Olbia, Italy. Then he'll attempt to refit it correctly. He's not an engine mechanic and we are a bit worried to ask someone here to do it, knowing that there are very few mechanics working with Perkins motors at all.

So, I am asking for any advice that will help us do the job please. Or if anyone has a mechanic they know in Olbia or nearby in Sardegna ( long shot I know!)

Also, the cover for the place where you add the coolant has just broken! Does anyone know of someone who has replaced their engine but kept parts like this? 

We are so disappointed as we are midway on our trip from France to Greece 😥 any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Kimberly SV Kujira Maramu #98

 

 
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Re: Running poles

Nick Newington
 

Good to know. I will reinstate the original. I need to wait on that project until  probably when I haul out. In about three weeks time. Drop the poles down below the boat onto a couple of horses…even if I cannot source the rivets I can do the main work, painting and priming etc  and source the rivets at home.

Nick
S/Y Amelia
AML54-019


On 4 Jun 2022, at 20:33, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Nick the pole fittings were originally riveted. 

Someone has tampered with this and that caused your paint to bubble. My guess is that they drilled the rivet holes larger and this caused moisture to get between the paint and aluminum.

Bill


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Sat, Jun 4, 2022 at 3:26 AM Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

I re placed the pealing strip that protects the pole from the bulwork with some cow hide. It is glued down with two part contact adhesive. We shall see how long it lasts. It may curl off on the sun…if so then maybe a piece of treadmaster would be better.

I stitched on some at the heel of the pole to protect the deck a few years ago and it is fine. See photos




But the stainless fittings have corroded the aluminium.





I think that I will remove the end cap and the fittings which are bolted and epoxy prime, repaint and insert some kind of spacer between the aluminium and the stainless. I was thinking to fibre glass and epoxy onto the primer  and paint over before redrilling and using Monel rivets…to fix the stainless fittings. There is a backing plate that takes the load, the rivets are just to hold it all in place.
If anyone has a better idea please let me know….
Nick
S/Y Amelia, just hanging out and doing those smaller jobs….
Fethiye bay Turkey
AML54-019






Re: Fresh Water Pump stopped working

 

It is very easy to mount the one-way valve backward. And, sometimes the on-way valve will get stuck open with a piece of debris. Also, this is very important, any suction leak of any kind will cause the same problem and suction leaks cannot be seen. Make absolutely sure the hose connection to the copper is sealed with silicone sealant. BTW, when new it was glued by Amel.

image.png

image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Sat, Jun 4, 2022 at 11:41 AM Slavko Despotovic <slavko@...> wrote:
This is option as well. Parts for my pump were 25 euro and few hours of work from my side. 

--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Croatia


Re: Running poles

 

Nick the pole fittings were originally riveted. 

Someone has tampered with this and that caused your paint to bubble. My guess is that they drilled the rivet holes larger and this caused moisture to get between the paint and aluminum.

Bill


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Sat, Jun 4, 2022 at 3:26 AM Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

I re placed the pealing strip that protects the pole from the bulwork with some cow hide. It is glued down with two part contact adhesive. We shall see how long it lasts. It may curl off on the sun…if so then maybe a piece of treadmaster would be better.

I stitched on some at the heel of the pole to protect the deck a few years ago and it is fine. See photos




But the stainless fittings have corroded the aluminium.





I think that I will remove the end cap and the fittings which are bolted and epoxy prime, repaint and insert some kind of spacer between the aluminium and the stainless. I was thinking to fibre glass and epoxy onto the primer  and paint over before redrilling and using Monel rivets…to fix the stainless fittings. There is a backing plate that takes the load, the rivets are just to hold it all in place.
If anyone has a better idea please let me know….
Nick
S/Y Amelia, just hanging out and doing those smaller jobs….
Fethiye bay Turkey
AML54-019






Re: SM Genoa Furler question

 

Measure them if you can.

Bill


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Sat, Jun 4, 2022 at 1:42 AM Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:
Fortunately my masts have yet to go back up. I have a new pair which I will replace this time!!
I can measure the length but the diameters would be different on the SN. My forestay is 10mm and I don’t know if the inside of the furling drum is the same size on the SM.

Ian
Ocean Hobo






Re: Fresh Water Pump stopped working

Slavko Despotovic
 

This is option as well. Parts for my pump were 25 euro and few hours of work from my side. 

--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Croatia


Re: Fresh Water Pump stopped working

Ian Townsend
 

Or you could replace it with a self-priming, variable pressure, compact Shurflo Aqua-King II! We did this last year. Fabulous pump.





-------- Original message --------
From: Slavko Despotovic <slavko@...>
Date: 2022-06-04 12:30 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fresh Water Pump stopped working

I have the same pump. There is a screw on the left side on the front of the pump (it 13,15 or 17). There you have to add water and then it will start working. That was how I fixed it after replacing some parts.

Regards,

--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Croatia


Re: Fresh Water Pump stopped working

Slavko Despotovic
 

I adding the schematics of the pump. Item 25 have to unscrewed.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Croatia


Re: Fresh Water Pump stopped working

Slavko Despotovic
 

I have the same pump. There is a screw on the left side on the front of the pump (it 13,15 or 17). There you have to add water and then it will start working. That was how I fixed it after replacing some parts.

Regards,

--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Croatia


Re: Observation on using 12v Lifepo4 batteries in serial/parallel (probably applicable to lead, too)

Jose Venegas
 

Mike
I use one balancer with the battery midpoints interconnected as required by Victron 

Jose Gabriel Venegas
Ipanema SM2k 278


Re: Fresh Water Pump stopped working

Alex Lomakin
 

Dear all,

A few days ago I dismantled my original SM fresh water pump to clean off lots of rust on a body of electric motor. Did that, gave it a lick of paint, installed it back and it is no longer working: there is no pressure in the system and no water from the taps.
The electric motor spins, the inside of the pump is clean. I also did my best to make sure it was not air-locked, but to no avail.
Any ideas what it might be, please?


Thank you very much,

Alex
SM 416


Re: [AmelYach,tOwners] Observation on using 12v Lifepo4 batteries in serial/parallel (probably applicable to lead, too)

Stefan Jeukendrup
 

Interesting and unexpected observations gentlemen,

This could simply be a little non liniarity or a  bit of offset in the Victron voltage measurement circuits:
you are only talking about 0.28V max. (0.24V is 1% of 24V)

Your good quality multimeter has probably a similar accuracy. Use that to check the voltages as a comparison for more consistent results.

The most important thing is that the individual cell voltage measurement in the internal BMS is very accurate as that switches off the passive/active balancing.

Hoping this is helpfull,


Stefan Jeukendrup
Sv Malaka Queen
SM2k #348 @ Newry, Northern Ireland



Op 4 jun. 2022 09:57 schreef Dean Gillies <stella@...>:

Hi Scott,
Well there you go. I don't understand the mechanism whereby the bottom battery is consistently lower voltage.
Sounds like an interesting conversation with Victron.
Keep us posted on what they say.

Out of interest I just checked my old notes from AGM batteries when I was looking at balancers a few years ago. I had 6 strings, and 4 of them had the TOP battery at higher voltage and 2 had the bottom battery at higher voltage. As I type, my Lead batteries are showing the TOP battery as being higher - see pic.

--
Dean Gillies
SV Stella *****,  Amel 54-154



Re: Observation on using 12v Lifepo4 batteries in serial/parallel (probably applicable to lead, too)

Dean Gillies
 

.. and its been this way for some time ...
--
Dean Gillies
SV Stella *****,  Amel 54-154


Re: Observation on using 12v Lifepo4 batteries in serial/parallel (probably applicable to lead, too)

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Scott,
Well there you go. I don't understand the mechanism whereby the bottom battery is consistently lower voltage.
Sounds like an interesting conversation with Victron.
Keep us posted on what they say.

Out of interest I just checked my old notes from AGM batteries when I was looking at balancers a few years ago. I had 6 strings, and 4 of them had the TOP battery at higher voltage and 2 had the bottom battery at higher voltage. As I type, my Lead batteries are showing the TOP battery as being higher - see pic.

--
Dean Gillies
SV Stella *****,  Amel 54-154


Re: Chain Counter Sensor Connector A54

Dean Gillies
 

Thanks Vladan, I have sent an email to the Lefkada store.

Roque,
Its not so easy to get my hands on a magnet while cruising in Greece, so I'll cough up for the kit!

The sensor works with a big magnet and I cleaned up both gypsies (grease) and it still works with both gypsies. There is a magnet in both gypsies.

The problem I observe is that it sometimes counts when the gypsy is not turning and the diagnostic test says "unstable sensor output".  My suspicion is still a bad electrical connection (probably ground connection) either at the sensor or at the connector. I think the magnets are ok.

I Investigated a bit further this morning, and found that there must be a connector or joint in the wiring.
The cable coming from the sensor is 3.75mm diameter (see pic), it then runs into a horizontal conduit running to starboard on the roof of the locker. When it exits from that conduit on the starboard side (see other pic), the diameter has changed to 4.25mm.  I suspected that it was different just by eye, and checked it with a gauge.  There must be a joint or connector in that conduit.

So the fault remains the same .. either there is a bad joint inside that conduit or where the wire enters the sensor. 

I will fit a new sensor (glad to hear it pushed out easily!) and I will pull the cable through that first conduit and make the new joint there, discarding the old joint too. I would prefer to make the new joint inside the electrical box on the stbd side, but the cable entry is sealed up so I don't want to disturb it. I'm not sure why Pochon didn't put the joint in there in the first place, maybe the sensor cable is too short.  

On a positive note, after my tugging and fiddling with the sensor cable this morning, the random counts have now stopped. I can spin the gypsy and it counts cleanly, and there is no sign of the random counts.  Definitely a suspect connection! I'm sure the problem will return with morse code-like beeps coming from the cockpit in the wee small hours.

Best regards to all

--
Dean Gillies
SV Stella *****,  Amel 54-154


Running poles

Nick Newington
 


I re placed the pealing strip that protects the pole from the bulwork with some cow hide. It is glued down with two part contact adhesive. We shall see how long it lasts. It may curl off on the sun…if so then maybe a piece of treadmaster would be better.

I stitched on some at the heel of the pole to protect the deck a few years ago and it is fine. See photos




But the stainless fittings have corroded the aluminium.





I think that I will remove the end cap and the fittings which are bolted and epoxy prime, repaint and insert some kind of spacer between the aluminium and the stainless. I was thinking to fibre glass and epoxy onto the primer and paint over before redrilling and using Monel rivets…to fix the stainless fittings. There is a backing plate that takes the load, the rivets are just to hold it all in place.
If anyone has a better idea please let me know….
Nick
S/Y Amelia, just hanging out and doing those smaller jobs….
Fethiye bay Turkey
AML54-019


Re: Observation on using 12v Lifepo4 batteries in serial/parallel (probably applicable to lead, too)

Scott SV Tengah
 

Dean,

Well it seems there's theory and then there's practice. Or something else is going on.

First measurement after swapping the wiring of each respective serial pair such that the prior "bottom" battery that was previously connected to "negative" battery switch was now made into a "top" battery that is now connected to "positive". And of course vice versa.

For ALL three separate pairs, the new "top" battery exhibits higher voltage than the "bottom" battery at the end of charging. The difference is anywhere from 0.03v to 0.28v. So it was not just a coincidence. 

I may need to have more conversations with Victron about the balancer. If I run the genset in the morning to take my batteries to 100%, the energy balance will remain positive for most of the day, allowing them to work. This should be more than the 4-5 hours that your batteries need to balance out.

Thoughts?



 On Thu, Jun 2, 2022 at 10:17 AM, Dean Gillies wrote:


Looking forward to your next measurement cycle :-)
Cheers

--
Dean Gillies
SV Stella *****,  Amel 54-154

 
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: SM Genoa Furler question

Ian Park
 

Fortunately my masts have yet to go back up. I have a new pair which I will replace this time!!
I can measure the length but the diameters would be different on the SN. My forestay is 10mm and I don’t know if the inside of the furling drum is the same size on the SM.

Ian
Ocean Hobo


Re: Observation on using 12v Lifepo4 batteries in serial/parallel (probably applicable to lead, too)

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

I might be stating the obvious here but unless battery midpoints are interconnected, you will need one balancer per battery pair. They start doing their job when voltage is above 27.3V. For their price, I think they are worth it for any 24V system using 12V battery pairs.

Cheers,
Mike

On Sat, Jun 4, 2022, 10:41 AM Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:
Scott,
I agree with Dean.  Independent of the band, it makes sense that controlling the total voltage of a battery set in series does not ensure that the voltage of both batteries is sufficient to trigger balancing in both.  The victron balancer does the trick. I spoke about it to a technician of Battle borne and he agreed with its use.  I used to have differences greater than 2% between the  two battery voltages of one set during the final part of charging to 100%.  Since I installed the balancer the differences have been around 0.1 and 0.2%.   I have 4 sets of two 12V 100 ah lithium batteries in series with one balancer.

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM2K 278
Cartagena




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