Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Hot Water Heater Failure

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I think that you will find that the life of an Isotemp heating element and gasket to be closer to 6 years than 10. The first thing that fails is that the element will get very small pin holes that open when the element is hot. This causes a ground fault and if connected to shore power with a working  ground fault system, will open the GFI and you will lose power.

Isotemp does not normally include a gasket, but if replacing the element, you will surely need one.

One of my never-completed projects was to install two LED lights on the plexiglass helm control panel...these lights would duplicate the water pump light and the gray water light. It would be easy to do...I just never did it.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 11, 2016 9:31 AM, "James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I do not know if others have had water heater problems, but I thought I should post something about my hot water heater issues that might help others avoid the problem I had. On our crossing to the Caribbean, we lost all of our fresh water - into the bilge and over the side. The bilge pump sure did its job.
No one noticed that the bilge pump was running way too much, and when we tried to use the galley faucet there was no water. At first I assumed the pump had failed, but when I went down into the engine room I saw water pouring out of the front of the hot water heater. The main water tank was empty by then.

We had to scramble to bypass the water heater (Isotemp 40L) and found that the main gasket that holds the heating element assembly in the tank had ruptured. Upon taking it apart it was found completely carbonized and literally fell apart. Bypassing the water system to allow us to continue using fresh water was no small task either, but we managed to cobble together a short hose to seal off the intake and outtake at the heater. The problem there is that BOTH sides of the water passthrough are pressurized - very surprising and we could not figure out how that could be true (the Amel drawings show exactly what is expected, so presumably someone modified the installation). Normally only the cold water side would be pressurized upstream of the water heater.

A quick call to Great Water in Florida worked and they rushed out spare parts. We had to replace the main gasket, faceplate, and the 230V electric element as well. They had all corroded.
I have heard others talk of a zinc, but I do not see any and the manual is different from the one in the boat.
Fortunately we were able to keep our crossing schedule and did not have to return to port, thanks to the water maker.
After this failure, I keep spare water heater parts around. It seems that 10 years is about it for the gaskets and elements. It is worth replacing them early on. This is not a problem I would have planned for, as water heaters seem pretty benign, but have learned how important it is.

Thanks,
Jamie
 
s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044


Hot Water Heater Failure

James Wendell <ms42phantom54@...>
 

I do not know if others have had water heater problems, but I thought I should post something about my hot water heater issues that might help others avoid the problem I had. On our crossing to the Caribbean, we lost all of our fresh water - into the bilge and over the side. The bilge pump sure did its job.
No one noticed that the bilge pump was running way too much, and when we tried to use the galley faucet there was no water. At first I assumed the pump had failed, but when I went down into the engine room I saw water pouring out of the front of the hot water heater. The main water tank was empty by then.

We had to scramble to bypass the water heater (Isotemp 40L) and found that the main gasket that holds the heating element assembly in the tank had ruptured. Upon taking it apart it was found completely carbonized and literally fell apart. Bypassing the water system to allow us to continue using fresh water was no small task either, but we managed to cobble together a short hose to seal off the intake and outtake at the heater. The problem there is that BOTH sides of the water passthrough are pressurized - very surprising and we could not figure out how that could be true (the Amel drawings show exactly what is expected, so presumably someone modified the installation). Normally only the cold water side would be pressurized upstream of the water heater.

A quick call to Great Water in Florida worked and they rushed out spare parts. We had to replace the main gasket, faceplate, and the 230V electric element as well. They had all corroded.
I have heard others talk of a zinc, but I do not see any and the manual is different from the one in the boat.
Fortunately we were able to keep our crossing schedule and did not have to return to port, thanks to the water maker.
After this failure, I keep spare water heater parts around. It seems that 10 years is about it for the gaskets and elements. It is worth replacing them early on. This is not a problem I would have planned for, as water heaters seem pretty benign, but have learned how important it is.

Thanks,
Jamie
 
s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044


Re: Bow thruster fuse

sailor63109@...
 

As the old saying goes "it's better to be luck than good".  I replaced the fuse and all is well.  I'm thinking the chain must have caught the fairing of the thruster and stopped it from raising, thus the blown fuse.

Henri Amel built a hellish strong bow thruster!

Duane


Re: Bow thruster fuse

sailor63109@...
 

Alexandre, thanks for the photo, I thought it might be in there.  Bill & Bill, thanks for thinking it through with me.

The whole sordid story borders on the stupid, but we were anchoring at night in 25 knots in a crowded anchorage, with the wind opposite the current.  We decided to set the anchor into the wind and I asked Peg to use the bowthruster to keep the bow from slewing around.  Here's the stupid part:  I didn't retract the bowthruster right away.  We backed down on the anchor and immediately the current took us opposite to our set and the chain went under the boat. 

We tried to raise the thruster when it appeared the chain was clear, and it would not raise (jack screw).  I went below and there was nothing but a bit of "electric smell", something got hot, but it could have been the heavy use of the motor at the bascule bridge (the bridge tender insisted that we stay within 200 feet of the bridge or he wouldn't open it!  He made us wait one 30 minute opening because in his opinion we were too far away.)

Out of concern for further damage during the night I disconnected one jack screw cable so I could lever the bow thruster to the up position.  There isn't any visible damage to the tube.

I checked the breaker on the 24 volt panel but it was on, not tripped.  The breakers in the fwd cabin port locker don't list the thruster, only "Boom; Mast; Windlass; Jib & Windlass", but I flipped them anyway and no joy.

 I'll be diving at slack tide late this morning to check out the damage...if there is any (fingers crossed!).  In the meantime I wanted to check out the fuse.

Thanks for the help everyone.

Duane
Wanderer SM477


Re: Bow thruster fuse

sailor63109@...
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow thruster fuse

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Duane,

Wen you say “unresponsive” does that include the jack screw?  i.e., Does it go up and down? 

And just an addition to make this thread generic...
        Older model SM bow thrusters have no fuse, and no pin switch.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."






On Dec 10, 2016, at 05:36, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Duane,

That fuse goes inside the control box which is inside the compartment for the bow thruster. At least I think the control box is inside. You have a late model bow thruster...I am not sure if Amel located it outside the compartment on yours.

Also, don't forget the breaker on the 24VDC panel that controls the low amp side of the winches, outhaul, and furlers, also controls the bow thruster control. And, of course the safety pin and corresponding ON/OFF toggle switch near the pin (I think you have the pin and toggle switch)

Best,

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 10, 2016 5:48 AM, "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

There is an automotive style fuse taped to the bow thruster.  Where does it go?  The bow thruster is unresponsive and I'm hoping that's the problem.


Duane

Wanderer, SM477





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow thruster fuse

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Duane,
If you scroll down the pictures, you will see the red color fuse inside the black control box.
But as Bill said, yours being newer could be different…
http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_sensor.html

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Harbor View Marina, Tortola, BVI



--------------------------------------------

On Sat, 12/10/16, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow thruster fuse
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Saturday, December 10, 2016, 4:36 AM


 









Duane,
That fuse goes inside the control box which is
inside the compartment for the bow thruster. At least I
think the control box is inside. You have a late model bow
thruster...I am not sure if Amel located it outside the
compartment on yours.
Also, don't forget the breaker on the 24VDC
panel that controls the low amp side of the winches,
outhaul, and furlers, also controls the bow thruster
control. And, of course the safety pin and corresponding
ON/OFF toggle switch near the pin (I think you have the pin
and toggle switch)
Best,
Bill Rouse

BeBe Amel 53 #387

Sent from my tablet

+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Dec 10, 2016 5:48 AM,
"sailor63109@...
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:















 









There is an automotive style fuse
taped to the bow thruster.  Where does it go?  The bow
thruster is unresponsive and I'm hoping that's the
problem.

DuaneWanderer, SM477






























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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow thruster fuse

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

That fuse goes inside the control box which is inside the compartment for the bow thruster. At least I think the control box is inside. You have a late model bow thruster...I am not sure if Amel located it outside the compartment on yours.

Also, don't forget the breaker on the 24VDC panel that controls the low amp side of the winches, outhaul, and furlers, also controls the bow thruster control. And, of course the safety pin and corresponding ON/OFF toggle switch near the pin (I think you have the pin and toggle switch)

Best,

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 10, 2016 5:48 AM, "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

There is an automotive style fuse taped to the bow thruster.  Where does it go?  The bow thruster is unresponsive and I'm hoping that's the problem.


Duane

Wanderer, SM477


Bow thruster fuse

sailor63109@...
 

There is an automotive style fuse taped to the bow thruster.  Where does it go?  The bow thruster is unresponsive and I'm hoping that's the problem.


Duane

Wanderer, SM477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge Pump Gasket replacement

seagasm@...
 

The way I understand it, you have two options from Amel or the manufacturer who were very slow in their response to me. One, you can purchase a new motor which I understand includes the gear or two, purchase a complete new pump entirely.

Our boat is in Bundy.

I have a friend who also berths his boat at Newport and had intended to meet up for a sail, I will drop by if that happens.

Kind regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM# 171


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge Pump Gasket replacement

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Thanks Bill, Danny and Barry

I have sent pictures off to Maud and she is sourcing the part for me. Will also upload a picture of this broken part to the site in case others find the same issue as it seems to be a common problem. Not yet sure of the price but have Maud sending us two of these so we also have a spare on board whilst cruising.

Barry thanks you for your kind offer to assist. We have a busy week-end with family plus week ahead with kids graduation etc but would love to meet you if you are around Brisbane for another week or so. We are up north in Newport Marina but I will call you to see your movements.

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II, Amel 53 # 332
Brisbane

On Sat, Dec 10, 2016 at 5:45 AM, Barry Ferguson seagasm@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Colin, I am in Manly Brisbane if you need assistance, 0477652046

Barry & Robyn,
Tradewinds III SM 171



On Fri, Dec 9, 2016 at 10:59 PM +1000, "SV Island Pearl II colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Thanks Bill

I will get in touch with both Riza and Maud to see who can get me one quicker. May also try the local Mercedes parts guys here in Brisbane too, just in case.

Here in Brisbane it's full speed ahead with many boat tasks and the other projects completed today was a new water pump on the Onan, a new Quick 40L hot water system installed and a new rear bumper all of which I'm pleased to report were dead easy installs..... till the bilge pump issue! Our hot water system just needed a new element however after all the discussions here on the forum about these lasting 5 - 8 years max, and ours being a 2008 unit, we decided to bite the bullet at 8yrs age and start our cruise with a new one instead.

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332
Brisbane

On Fri, Dec 9, 2016 at 10:04 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Colin,

I had a hard time finding that part. The gear section of the pump is identical to a Mercedes Benz wiper mechanism, but I do not know what year and model. I had someone in Turkey replace the white Delrin gear and he told me that he found it in a Mercedes parts distributor.

I heard that Maud now has this part. Check with her at SAV"at"Amel.fr. I also heard that Riza at Emek Marin in Turkey has the part. Check with him at cagdas"at"emekmarin.com

Good luck.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 9, 2016 6:51 AM, "'Colin.d.streeter' colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:
 

We are just in the process of pulling our bilge pump apart right now too as the new gaskets have arrived from Amel.

Certainly from what we are looking at here Mark is correct that there are sufficient small bolts around the unit to hold the gaskets firmly in place. The important issue appears to be ensuring that the gaskets and holding plates all go back on the right way around.

Interestingly in our case the gaskets are in excellent condition but what we have now unfortunately found is a chunk of the little white cog broken with approx 5 teeth missing.  Due to this the motor turns but cannot make contact with and turn the white cog around to push the suction unit.

Has anyone else managed to fix this approx 1.25 cm gap or managed to get a replacement white cog from Amel or direct from the Italian pump supplier? We are without our computer here right now but do remember a comment some time back regarding fixing this with a drill bit which turned out well however our missing chunk is probably too large for that solution.

Any suggestions?

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #323
Brisbane 


On 9 Dec 2016, at 10:37 AM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:

 

Jim,

 

I think there are plenty of screws to form a good seal without introducing a foreign element. I replaced mine a couple of years ago and did not use any sealants. I made sure the surfaces were clean before re-assembling the pump. I have not had any problems.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

Wi th best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Tampa Bay, USA

 

From: amelyachtowners@...m [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2016 6:58 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...m
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge Pump Gasket replacement

 

 

Hope some can give me a little advice on replacing the gaskets on my original Amel installed bilge pump. I have a Super Maramu Hull #207.  I have replaced the gaskets once before but have developed a leak around the gaskets and am wondering if when I replace them this time is it advisable to also add silicone or some other sealer between the gaskets and the pump.  I have ordered the replacement gaskets form Amel and am aware that they have to be installed with one side towards the water as labeled on the Gaskets.

Thank you,

Jim DeSalvo, SM#207

 




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: Maramu cockpit canopy

rossny@mail.com
 

Hi Christian & James,
The plugs on the dodger look like the plastic ends that fit into the ends of a bicycle handlebar. I was lucky in that my previous owner left a bag of them onboard. Try bringing one into a bike shop and see if they can match one up. I haven't tried this yet but next time I replace them I will paint the top exposed part to block the UV, maybe they will last longer and not get brittle.
Let us know wherever you source them.
Best Regards,
Ross
Maramu 1989 #261
Still stuck in NYC....


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Ariston microwave tripping 230v panel main breaker

karkauai
 

Better yet, if you can't fix it, buy one that works on 50 AND 60Hz.

Kent


Re: Ariston microwave tripping 230v panel main breaker

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

The ground fault problem is in the browning element.  With that disconnected, the microwave does not cause the main panel circuit breaker to trip when the microwave circuit breaker is depressed, and in fact the microwave itself appears to work just fine.  Now to order a new browning element.

Thanks for the great advice!

Derick
SM2K#400
Brava
Currently in Martinique


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Ariston microwave tripping 230v panel main breaker

karkauai
 

Hi Derrick.
My microwave (not sure it's the same as yours, but I think so) died a few years ago in St Lucia, it was tripping the microwave breaker.  An electrician there (way above my pay grade) took it to his shop and found a bad capacitor, replaced it, and it's been good ever since.  Mine had been run on 60 Hz power a couple times right after I bought the boat, but that was 4 or 5 years earlier.

Good luck.

Merry Christmas to all!

Kent
Kristy
SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ariston microwave tripping 230v panel main breaker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Derick,

Your past transgressions have moved forward to bite you in the but.

It does not happen immediately, but 60htz fries 50htz microwave electronics.

Gladly, you are now in the land of 50htz. If it failed in the USA, you would be out of luck!

Go buy a new one.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 9, 2016 6:17 PM, "derickgates@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks all for your responses. 


Bill, I can attest to the fact that the microwave had been previously used on 60 Hz, but I am currently in Martinique and the electricity here, as you know, is strictly 50Hz, and Martinique is where the microwave stopped working.  Nonetheless the prior use may have contributed to the problem. 

Tom, it seems to trip even if the microwave is off, or off on different settings.  

I believe that Alan is correct about the problem being a ground fault, and I suspect that it is in the browning element, because that is what I was using when the issue occurred.  I have the cover off and do not see any burned or melted electronics.  I am going to do a little detective work to see if I can find which part is causing the fault, e.g. taking the browning element out of the circuit.

Derick
SM2K#400
Brava
Cur rently in Le Marin, Martinique


Re: Ariston microwave tripping 230v panel main breaker

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

Thanks all for your responses. 

Bill, I can attest to the fact that the microwave had been previously used on 60 Hz, but I am currently in Martinique and the electricity here, as you know, is strictly 50Hz, and Martinique is where the microwave stopped working.  Nonetheless the prior use may have contributed to the problem. 

Tom, it seems to trip even if the microwave is off, or off on different settings.  

I believe that Alan is correct about the problem being a ground fault, and I suspect that it is in the browning element, because that is what I was using when the issue occurred.  I have the cover off and do not see any burned or melted electronics.  I am going to do a little detective work to see if I can find which part is causing the fault, e.g. taking the browning element out of the circuit.

Derick
SM2K#400
Brava
Currently in Le Marin, Martinique


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ariston microwave tripping 230v panel main breaker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

The main breaker on the side of a SM breaker main panel is a circuit breaker and a GFS protection breaker. A short will trip it, or a Ground Fault.

Maybe you should research Ground Fault.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 9, 2016 5:52 PM, "divanz620@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The microwave breaker is a high current circuit breaker. i.e. if the current flowing in that circuit exceeds its rating it will trip.

The main breaker on the side of the 220VAC panel box is an RCD (residual current device) or ELCB (Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker). These devices trip if there is an imbalance in the current flowing in the phase and neutral wires which can only mean that some current is going to ground.
If this breaker trips it means you have a ground fault in the AC circuit. If turning on the  microwave trips it, you have a ground fault in the microwave itself.
As Bill says, replace the whole unit, they are cheap enough these days !
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437



Re: Ariston microwave tripping 230v panel main breaker

Alan Leslie
 

The microwave breaker is a high current circuit breaker. i.e. if the current flowing in that circuit exceeds its rating it will trip.
The main breaker on the side of the 220VAC panel box is an RCD (residual current device) or ELCB (Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker). These devices trip if there is an imbalance in the current flowing in the phase and neutral wires which can only mean that some current is going to ground.
If this breaker trips it means you have a ground fault in the AC circuit. If turning on the  microwave trips it, you have a ground fault in the microwave itself.
As Bill says, replace the whole unit, they are cheap enough these days !
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Ariston microwave tripping 230v panel main breaker

Thomas Peacock
 

Not sure if I can answer the question, but it's obviously a major short. It's a different model than we have; does it trip the breaker regardless of setting (heating element versus microwave alone)?
As a separate issue, could others weigh in on the phenomenon of the microwave tripping the main 220 breaker, but not the Microwave breaker? We noticed a similar phenomenon when working on the AC, we shorted out a wire, the main breaker was thrown. We hypothesized that the Microwave switch on the 220 panel is not truly a breaker, but just a switch. Is this true?

Tom Peacock
SM #240 Aletes
St Augustine, Florida