main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jabsco Quite Flush Toilet Maintenance and Head Smell

karkauai

#28566

That's what I do, Ben.

Kent

SM 243

Kristy

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On Aug 14, 2016, at 12:50 PM, Ben Driver joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Jim

Would it be possible to remove the two screws holding plastic nipple to base without removing hose? That is, flex the hose enough to gain access to input side of nipple in order to replace joker?

Ben Driver

La Bella Vita

SM #347

6S

On Aug 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, 'Jim Anderson' capt.anderson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Bill, Ben & the Group,
I didn’t replace the joker/check valve this time because it wasn’t leaking. And (maybe someone can chime in on this..), because in order to replace the joker valve you have to remove the output nipple. But to do that, the only way I have succeeded so far is to use a heat gun to make the output hose flexible enough to bend so as to be able to pull it off of the output nipple. I’m afraid that repeatedly heating the hose every year or so, so as to be able to replace the joker valve and maybe the output nipple, will cause it to fail. I’ve replaced the aft output hose but would like to put off doing a similar job again if at all possible.

For spares I keep at least 1: 24V motor, white round plastic seal housing that screws to the motor, blade & nut kit, output nipples, Jabsco re-build kits, and now a bunch of 1.5MM X 75MM O-rings.

Also as an aside, I’ve replaced some of the four slotted screws that attach the seal housing to the toilet base with hex-drive screws. This solves the problem of the screwdriver constantly slipping out of the screw head as you’re hugging the toilet and watching the flashlight roll away while trying to disassemble or reassemble the unit. I’m not aboard right now so don’t have the size available.

Best,
Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water in engine

James Wendell <ms42phantom54@...>

#28565

Bill, you are absolutely correct. My old boat, a Tayana 42, had a very high outlet point - with a non-functioning gate valve of all crazy ideas. I only added a flapper when I installed a gas/water separator. It seemed to work.

I would be most interested in hearing your story about a closed valve, over that glass of wine of course. I would not want to give that a whirl on my boat.

I think James said it well that you cannot defy physics, but I do think the Amel design is the best of both worlds - a high exhaust loop and a flapper. I took advantage of each when I installed my new engine and the larger exhaust.

Jamie

s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044

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On Sunday, August 14, 2016 1:48 PM, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:

All boats have compromises in design... Even Amels!

Many boats do not need a flap on the exhaust because the design allows the exhaust to loop high enough that one is not needed.

On other boats a valve is fitted to absolutely close the exhaust port. You don't have to worry about not opening it, the engine will not run against a closed exhaust! I will only explain how I know this after several glasses of wine...

On my old boat for example, the exhaust hose looped way up inside the cockpit coming. That got the high point of the hose almost a meter higher above the water than is possible on my SM where the height of the hose loop is limited by the floor of the cockpit. Water entry was never a problem.

But... On an SM, even if vertical space was available, you can't ask a turbocharged engine to work against that much back pressure!

Isn't boat design FUN!?!?

Bill Kinney
Harmonie, SM160
Narragansett Bay, RI

> On Aug 14, 2016, at 13:11, James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
>
> I think what Amel installed for the engine on the SM and on is quite good. =
> Most boats have no flapper at all. The only other option would be a shutoff=
> valve, which is what my generator exhaust has. But there you have to be ve=
> ry careful to remember to open when you run the generator. Otherwise you wi=
> ll seriously fill up the boat with raw water - an

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dive Compressor

Alexandre Uster von Baar

#28564

Good afternoon Thomas,

Interesting they say a 8kw genset is required…
Are the newer model more power hungry?

The specs on my Bauer Junior II (brochure from August 1998) says regarding the JII 3W model that I have: 2.2 Kw (3 PS) (for the 230 Volt / 50 Hz electric, they do have/had a 3 phase 400 volt)).

My Onan genset is smaller 6.5 of not even 6 Kw (I don’t even know)
Now that I have the Blue Sea  AC Multimeter I can monitor the watts.
For information, last weekend I was filling up a scuba tank and doing laundry at the same time, the most it peaks was 5360 Watts.

I used 2 scuba tanks yesterday to clean the hull, so I will fill up one next week, then another one the following.  If you need data let me know. 
I don’t mind to use only the scuba compressor (and nothing else) on the genset to have accurate reading of watts.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico



--------------------------------------------

Show quoted text

On Sun, 8/14/16, thomas. kleman <no_reply@...> wrote:

 Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dive Compressor
 To: amelyachtowners@...
 Date: Sunday, August 14, 2016, 11:09 AM


  









       Hello- I own SM2K #422 (L'ORIENT)
 with the Onan MDKAV 7 KW genset. I've read all the dive
 compressor posts and am considering installing one. The
 Bauer Junior II retailer and some of the literature I've
 read indicate an 8 KW genset is required......yet when I
 read the conversation on this site as well as
 Alexandre's detailed install plan on Nikimat, it seems
 apparent that my 7 KW Onan will do......the peak draw from
 the Bauer seems to be well below 7 KW when I read the specs,
 making the info from Bauer internally inconsistent . Am I
 missing something ? We dive quite a bit and are planning
 trips to more remote locations so having access to dive
 shops might be a problem going forward. I'd love to have
 one but don't want to make a $4000 mistake.


    






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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery Charger Manual

karkauai

#28563

I saw that. Was wondering more about the equalization manual cycle.

Thanks

Kent

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On Aug 14, 2016, at 12:14 PM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

A cursory look at the Skylla 24v manual shows that in addition to 7 pre-set voltage sets for specific battery models for various manufacturers, an 8th setting allows customised voltages fully adjustable via potentiometer, not via software.

Just last week I was looking at a newer product, the Victron MPPT solar charger, and the settings on it are adjustable via PC+USB connection, like Mastervolt, so I mistakenly assumed all Victron are adjustable via software! My bad.

The good news is, however, that no USB module would be necessary for this particular charger in order to get proper charging voltages for one's batteries.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus

SM2K Nº 350

Bonifacio

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

karkauai

#28562

Oh, hope that's not my problem.

Thanks

Kent

Show quoted text

On Aug 14, 2016, at 9:27 AM, Ann-Sofie Svanberg kanalmamman@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Kent

We were not able to get that freezer/fridge unit out due to that someone laminated the box to the wooden work.

/Annsofie

S/Y Lady Annila, SM232, 1998

Skickades från E-post för Windows 10

Från: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]
Skickat: den 14 augusti 2016 12:42
Till: amelyachtowners@...
Ämne: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

Merci Olivier, but I am talking about the aft freezer box under the dinette seat. I think Bill's description has answered my question. I'm not on the boat now, when I get back aboard, I'll try again. If I still can't get it out, I'll post some pics of the problem.

Thanks again to you both for your help.

Kent

SM 243

Kristy

On Aug 14, 2016, at 2:27 AM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hello Kent,

you don't need to remove all the screws you find around the box, just remove the wooden board below the door (where you find the switch for low fan speed) AND the floor board in front of the fridge.

The fridge will then be able to be slided forward.

Good luck.

Olivier.

On Friday, August 12, 2016 5:05 PM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Bon Jour Olivier,

I am unable to remove the aft freezer to access the forward tank. I've removed all the screws I can find on the woodwork around the box and it's still immobile on the phone inboard end. What am I missing?

Merci beaucoup pour votre aide!

Kent, Patch, Rusty

SM243

Kristy

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 12V & 24V receptacles

Alexandre Uster von Baar

#28561

Hello Joe,

I am now in San Juan (Puerto Rico).

I left Turks & Caicos Friday Feb 19 -21and sail for 2 days to reach Samana (Dominica Republic).
May 6-8 I sailed to the Club Nautico where I have been staying.

Let me know if you head my way, I am planning to stay until the end of September.
I just sent you a FB friend request!
Would love to meet you!

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

--------------------------------------------

Show quoted text

On Sun, 8/14/16, cloudstreet100@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 12V & 24V receptacles
 To: amelyachtowners@...
 Date: Sunday, August 14, 2016, 11:30 AM


  









       Alexandre,
 August 14, 2016

 Are you still
 in Turks & Caicos?  I have just sailed there and would
 like to meet you.
 Joe
 NanceSV CloudStreetSM2K Hull
 #331





     



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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water in engine

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>

#28560

All boats have compromises in design... Even Amels!

Many boats do not need a flap on the exhaust because the design allows the exhaust to loop high enough that one is not needed.

On other boats a valve is fitted to absolutely close the exhaust port. You don't have to worry about not opening it, the engine will not run against a closed exhaust! I will only explain how I know this after several glasses of wine...

On my old boat for example, the exhaust hose looped way up inside the cockpit coming. That got the high point of the hose almost a meter higher above the water than is possible on my SM where the height of the hose loop is limited by the floor of the cockpit. Water entry was never a problem.

But... On an SM, even if vertical space was available, you can't ask a turbocharged engine to work against that much back pressure!

Isn't boat design FUN!?!?

Bill Kinney
Harmonie, SM160
Narragansett Bay, RI

Show quoted text

On Aug 14, 2016, at 13:11, James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I think what Amel installed for the engine on the SM and on is quite good. =
Most boats have no flapper at all. The only other option would be a shutoff=
valve, which is what my generator exhaust has. But there you have to be ve=
ry careful to remember to open when you run the generator. Otherwise you wi=
ll seriously fill up the boat with raw water - an

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water in engine

James Alton

#28559

I am afraid that the answer to your question has more to do with Physics than with Amel. Flappers allow for a very low back pressure on the engine and a full flow opening. It’s really hard to design something that has almost no back pressure that can act as a perfect check valve.

Show quoted text

On Aug 14, 2016, at 2:00 PM, arthur saftlas art@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Why would Amel not have designed something more water tight than a flap?

"The cure for anything is salt water; sweat, tears, or the sea." - Karen Blixen

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water in engine

James Wendell <ms42phantom54@...>

#28558

I think what Amel installed for the engine on the SM and on is quite good. Most boats have no flapper at all. The only other option would be a shutoff valve, which is what my generator exhaust has. But there you have to be very careful to remember to open when you run the generator. Otherwise you will seriously fill up the boat with raw water - and exhaust fumes.

Jamie

s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044

Show quoted text

On Sunday, August 14, 2016 1:00 PM, "arthur saftlas art@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:

Why would Amel not have designed something more water tight than a flap?

"The cure for anything is salt water; sweat, tears, or the sea." - Karen Blixen

Re: Water in engine

arthur saftlas <art@...>

#28557

Why would Amel not have designed something more water tight than a flap?

"The cure for anything is salt water; sweat, tears, or the sea." - Karen Blixen

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jabsco Quite Flush Toilet Maintenance and Head Smell

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347

#28556

Jim

Would it be possible to remove the two screws holding plastic nipple to base without removing hose? That is, flex the hose enough to gain access to input side of nipple in order to replace joker?

Ben Driver

La Bella Vita

SM #347

6S

Show quoted text

On Aug 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, 'Jim Anderson' capt.anderson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Bill, Ben & the Group,
I didn’t replace the joker/check valve this time because it wasn’t leaking. And (maybe someone can chime in on this..), because in order to replace the joker valve you have to remove the output nipple. But to do that, the only way I have succeeded so far is to use a heat gun to make the output hose flexible enough to bend so as to be able to pull it off of the output nipple. I’m afraid that repeatedly heating the hose every year or so, so as to be able to replace the joker valve and maybe the output nipple, will cause it to fail. I’ve replaced the aft output hose but would like to put off doing a similar job again if at all possible.

For spares I keep at least 1: 24V motor, white round plastic seal housing that screws to the motor, blade & nut kit, output nipples, Jabsco re-build kits, and now a bunch of 1.5MM X 75MM O-rings.

Also as an aside, I’ve replaced some of the four slotted screws that attach the seal housing to the toilet base with hex-drive screws. This solves the problem of the screwdriver constantly slipping out of the screw head as you’re hugging the toilet and watching the flashlight roll away while trying to disassemble or reassemble the unit. I’m not aboard right now so don’t have the size available.

Best,
Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel SM engine room bulkheads and keel bolts.

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>

#28555

John,

I know that it is larger than 1/2" because that is all I had when I did it. I used the electric drill and half inch bit to make the 1/2" hole larger until it was large enough.

I know that does not answer your question, but at least, you now have the "shade-tree engineering" method from the "horse's mouth."

Best,

Bill BeBe 387

Show quoted text

On Sun, Aug 14, 2016 at 10:42 AM, johnabo2003 <no_reply@...> wrote:

I am in the process of mounting a heavy-ish fuel polisher in the engine room on the rear bulkhead. Does any body know if the bulkhead is double walled? I do not want to drive the mounting screws through into the rear head.
I am also going to install a new copper strap in the bilge as per Bill's excellent write up. However I do not know the size of the hole to drill in the copper strip that is for the keel bolt. Does anybody know the diameter of the keel bolt studs.

Thanks
John Abercrombie SM 391 in Port Louis Grenada

Re: 12V & 24V receptacles

Joe Nance

#28554

Alexandre,

August 14, 2016

Are you still in Turks & Caicos? I have just sailed there and would like to meet you.

Joe Nance

SV CloudStreet

SM2K Hull #331

Re: Battery Charger Manual

svperegrinus@yahoo.com

#28553

A cursory look at the Skylla 24v manual shows that in addition to 7 pre-set voltage sets for specific battery models for various manufacturers, an 8th setting allows customised voltages fully adjustable via potentiometer, not via software.

Just last week I was looking at a newer product, the Victron MPPT solar charger, and the settings on it are adjustable via PC+USB connection, like Mastervolt, so I mistakenly assumed all Victron are adjustable via software! My bad.

The good news is, however, that no USB module would be necessary for this particular charger in order to get proper charging voltages for one's batteries.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus

SM2K Nº 350

Bonifacio

Dive Compressor

thomas.kleman <no_reply@...>

#28552

Hello- I own SM2K #422 (L'ORIENT) with the Onan MDKAV 7 KW genset. I've read all the dive compressor posts and am considering installing one. The Bauer Junior II retailer and some of the literature I've read indicate an 8 KW genset is required......yet when I read the conversation on this site as well as Alexandre's detailed install plan on Nikimat, it seems apparent that my 7 KW Onan will do......the peak draw from the Bauer seems to be well below 7 KW when I read the specs, making the info from Bauer internally inconsistent . Am I missing something ? We dive quite a bit and are planning trips to more remote locations so having access to dive shops might be a problem going forward. I'd love to have one but don't want to make a $4000 mistake.

Amel SM engine room bulkheads and keel bolts.

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>

#28551

I am in the process of mounting a heavy-ish fuel polisher in the engine room on the rear bulkhead. Does any body know if the bulkhead is double walled? I do not want to drive the mounting screws through into the rear head.

I am also going to install a new copper strap in the bilge as per Bill's excellent write up. However I do not know the size of the hole to drill in the copper strip that is for the keel bolt. Does anybody know the diameter of the keel bolt studs.

Thanks

John Abercrombie SM 391 in Port Louis Grenada

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] The crazy wiring of the Yanmar isolated ground on my 4jh3hte Hull #376 SM

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>

#28550

I cannot wait to get your explanation and photos...nobody has been able to document this before!

Bill

BeBe 387

Show quoted text

On Sun, Aug 14, 2016 at 5:46 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Congrats, Eric! So what did you find was the problem?
Kent
SM243
Kristy

From: "kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 2:42 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] The crazy wiring of th e Yanmar isolated ground on my 4jh3hte Hull #376 SM

I thought I had solved the problem of the erratic starting and stopping of my engine. I finally threw in the towel and the last few days I have removed all the plastic covering of the entire engine harness and the gooey black electrical tape that was used 14 years ago to close the corrugated covering of the wires.

I have found a number of connections that work but make no sense as there are much simpler ways to accomplish the same thing.

Tomorrow I will take some photos an explain the improvements I am making to the wiring harness.

One series of improvements will be to remove soldered splices that the factory did to make the engine an isolated ground. I will run non spliced cables directly from point to point. a number of these connections are i n the middle of a run of wire just soldered and taped together.

To make things worse these connections are under the area of the turbo and totally inaccessible unless you remove the entire engine harness from the oil filter side.

The good news is I have it figured out and the engine now works perfectly.
More to follow.

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Correct way to rig the bi-directional Anderson traveler winch"

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>

#28549

I have seen both, ours in outside...BUT...we were able to replace with exact line used by Amel on Super Maramus because we got those lines from Amel Hyères, France. La Rochelle recommends replacing with 12mm line.

Here is why:

It is almost impossible to buy the quality of 10mm line that Amel originally used...even from SAV. The problem is illustrated when you squeeze the new 10mm line with your fingers. I assume that line manufacturers are NOT putting as much fiber content in their new lines because you can compress new line to 7-8mm with your fingers. This is problematic with that Anderson winch and with the same winch on the main outhaul because 7-8mm is not enough for the teeth to get a good bite on the line...and it will slip.

One of the things that you can do on the main traveler line is to run it inside the pins. This causes the line to meet more of the winch circumference and therefore reduces slippage. Unfortunately, you do not have that option on the outhaul, where the best fix is to use 12mm line rather than 10mm. BTW, the 12mm will compress to 9-10mm.

I hope that my description is understandable...it is based on my experience with these winches and lines and is probably accurate, but not guaranteed.

Bill

BeBe 387

Show quoted text

On Sun, Aug 14, 2016 at 2:47 AM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Eric, our are inside, but it's probably a random happenstance! (we replaced all the running rigging in 2013).

I'd like to make sure ours is set as per factory spec.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K N. 350
At anchor, Bonifacio

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Exhaust flap

James Wendell <ms42phantom54@...>

#28548

You have to remove it from inside the boat. You first disconnect the exhaust hose going to it (mine was a 75mm hose - not sure about the SM). Then you remove the flapper from the large-diameter but short length of hose that you will see. The big hose is much larger in diameter than the flapper. It connects to the flapper and then to the thru-hull fitting. It is pretty easy to remove once you remove the exhaust hose. Be careful to ensure the exhaust outlet is not below the water line or you will get a lot of seawater entry. I did mine out of the water.

Jamie

s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044

Show quoted text

On Saturday, August 13, 2016 9:34 PM, "simms simms@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:

Thanks Jamie. The hand in will see if it is there. If not,how to replace?
Thanks
Danny
Sm 299
ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On Aug 14, 2016 11:26 AM, "James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:

Danny, I just replaced mine, as I had to increase my exhaust hose from 75 to 90 mm. You can reach in from the outside and feel it. You should not be able to stick your hands into the actual hose. It is welded into a tube that then fits into a rubber outer hose.

s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044

On Saturday, August 13, 2016 3:33 PM, "simms simms@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:

Hi all. How do you get to check if the exhaust flap is in place still. Lazy question because I haven't started looking yet but don't want to pull things apart if there is a better way. If it is missing/damaged how to replace?
Regards
Danny
Sm 299
Ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>

#28547

Hi Kent

We were not able to get that freezer/fridge unit out due to that someone laminated the box to the wooden work.

/Annsofie

S/Y Lady Annila, SM232, 1998

Skickades från E-post för Windows 10

Från: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]
Skickat: den 14 augusti 2016 12:42
Till: amelyachtowners@...
Ämne: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

Merci Olivier, but I am talking about the aft freezer box under the dinette seat. I think Bill's description has answered my question. I'm not on the boat now, when I get back aboard, I'll try again. If I still can't get it out, I'll post some pics of the problem.

Thanks again to you both for your help.

Kent

SM 243

Kristy

Show quoted text

On Aug 14, 2016, at 2:27 AM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hello Kent,

you don't need to remove all the screws you find around the box, just remove the wooden board below the door (where you find the switch for low fan speed) AND the floor board in front of the fridge.

The fridge will then be able to be slided forward.

Good luck.

Olivier.

On Friday, August 12, 2016 5:05 PM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Bon Jour Olivier,

I am unable to remove the aft freezer to access the forward tank. I've removed all the screws I can find on the woodwork around the box and it's still immobile on the phone inboard end. What am I missing?

Merci beaucoup pour votre aide!

Kent, Patch, Rusty

SM243

Kristy