Alan, I looked through the Pochon Catalogue , it looked like they are a distributor of thousands of marine products , but I could not find the chain counter.Do you know that they manufacture , rather than just sell ? I figure the Z has to stand for something.

Thanks,

Pat SM 123

-----Original Message-----
From: divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Sep 6, 2016 4:24 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Chain counter

 

They were manufactured by Pochon in France

Pochon S. A.
Avenue Michel CREPEAU78501 
17000 La Rochelle
France
Tel.: +33-546 413 053
Fax: +33-546 505 857
E-Mail:commercial@...
WEB: www.pochon.com
Mr. Didier Dupois

Good luck

Cheers

Alan

Elyse SM437

On Sep 6, 2016, at 12:19, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Now an email, they won’t ship Never Seez to Puerto Rico…  

Any 2nd choice?  

Tef gel says it can take up to 450*F
Is that enough?  

Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 9/6/16, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] what type of product to put on bolt attaching the windlass to deck?
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, September 6, 2016, 10:56 AM


 









Bill,
   I must say that this was the
best explanation I have ever read for why I have had so many
problems with stainless on stainless threads over the
years..thank you!  I can now imagine the little batteries
that are formed between the active and passive locations in
such a fastener after Mother Nature adds her natural
electrolyte…..  
  Bronze and stainless threads
seems almost never gall.  Is the softer bronze acting as
sort of a lubricant?
  I was thinking that on Sueno
that I would probably start with a clean stainless windlass
bolt and a clean hole.  Add the Never Seez with a Q tip or
something similar to the embedded plate only, keeping it off
of the fibreglass.  Then apply my sealant between the
interface of the windlass and the deck but hold the windlass
up off of the deck as much as possible while the bolts were
inserted to keep from carrying the sealant down into the
Never Seezed area.  The objective being to avoid
contaminating the faying surfaces for the sealant to insure
a good seal.   It’s too bad that a good seal to keep the
water out also excludes the O2 needed for the stainless
oxide for form but I feel that keeping salt water out of
those holes is more important.  I can imagine that once
salt water migrates in around the plate that there is no
cleaning/drying it out.
   Please tell me how you would
do it since I am sure that you have put a lot more thought
into this than I have.
Best,
James AltonMaramu #220 SuenoSardinia
On Sep 6, 2016, at 12:04 PM, Bill
greatketch@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:

If your intent is to take it
apart every two or three years to clean salt build up from
between the deck and the windlass housing as recommended by
Lofrans, pretty much anything will probably work.
 
I assume the deck plate is
stainless, as well as the bolts, so in this case you are
protecting against two issues, galvanic corrosion and
"galling" or "cold welding".
 
Most kinds of stainless steel can
exist in two forms "active" and
"passive" depending on the availability of free
oxygen.  These two forms are quite far apart on the
galvanic scale.  When stainless on stainless threads are
wet it sets up a good environment for active and passive
forms to exist close to each other and potentially cause
issues.  For this reason using a product that excludes
water from the joint is a good idea. Lanocote, tef-gel,
Never-Seez, or standard waterproof greases would all do this
for a least a couple years. 
A simple way to think about
stainless galling is that under very high pressures the
protective surface oxide layer rubs off, the
"pure" metal underneath "melts" into
itself and the parts become welded together.  In preventing
this, in my experience, Lanocote is good, Tef-Gel and
Never-Seez are better.  Some greases are good, some not so
much, at this.
So...  All told my
recommendation would be either tef-gel or never-seez, and
I'd know I could get them apart at any time in the
future with no problems. On my boat I'd most likely use
tef-gel only because it lives in my rigging tool bag, while
the never-seez lives in the engine room!
Bill KinneySM#160 HarmonieNarragansett Bay, RI,
USA



On Sep 6, 2016, at 09:37,
Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:

 Good morning, 

To make story short, I removed
the windlass, etc. 

What type of product would you
put on the bolts attaching the windlass to the deck?  
Lanocote? Marine
grease?  

one was extremely difficult to
remove (4 hours) and i would prefer avoid that in the
future…

Thanks in
advance, 
Sincerely,
Alexandre
SM2K
#289 NIKIMAT
Club
Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico












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On Sep 6, 2016, at 11:56, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Bill,

   I must say that this was the best explanation I have ever read for why I have had so many problems with stainless on stainless threads over the years..thank you!  I can now imagine the little batteries that are formed between the active and passive locations in such a fastener after Mother Nature adds her natural electrolyte…..  

  Bronze and stainless threads seems almost never gall.  Is the softer bronze acting as sort of a lubricant?

  I was thinking that on Sueno that I would probably start with a clean stainless windlass bolt and a clean hole.  Add the Never Seez with a Q tip or something similar to the embedded plate only, keeping it off of the fibreglass.  Then apply my sealant between the interface of the windlass and the deck but hold the windlass up off of the deck as much as possible while the bolts were inserted to keep from carrying the sealant down into the Never Seezed area.  The objective being to avoid contaminating the faying surfaces for the sealant to insure a good seal.   It’s too bad that a good seal to keep the water out also excludes the O2 needed for the stainless oxide for form but I feel that keeping salt water out of those holes is more important.  I can imagine that once salt water migrates in around the plate that there is no cleaning/drying it out.

   Please tell me how you would do it since I am sure that you have put a lot more thought into this than I have.

Best,

James Alton

Maramu #220 Sueno

Sardinia

On Sep 6, 2016, at 12:04 PM, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

If your intent is to take it apart every two or three years to clean salt build up from between the deck and the windlass housing as recommended by Lofrans, pretty much anything will probably work.  

I assume the deck plate is stainless, as well as the bolts, so in this case you are protecting against two issues, galvanic corrosion and "galling" or "cold welding".  

Most kinds of stainless steel can exist in two forms "active" and "passive" depending on the availability of free oxygen.  These two forms are quite far apart on the galvanic scale.  When stainless on stainless threads are wet it sets up a good environment for active and passive forms to exist close to each other and potentially cause issues.  For this reason using a product that excludes water from the joint is a good idea. Lanocote, tef-gel, Never-Seez, or standard waterproof greases would all do this for a least a couple years. 

A simple way to think about stainless galling is that under very high pressures the protective surface oxide layer rubs off, the "pure" metal underneath "melts" into itself and the parts become welded together.  In preventing this, in my experience, Lanocote is good, Tef-Gel and Never-Seez are better.  Some greases are good, some not so much, at this.

So...  All told my recommendation would be either tef-gel or never-seez, and I'd know I could get them apart at any time in the future with no problems. On my boat I'd most likely use tef-gel only because it lives in my rigging tool bag, while the never-seez lives in the engine room!

Bill Kinney

SM#160 Harmonie

Narragansett Bay, RI, USA

On Sep 6, 2016, at 09:37, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good morning, 

To make story short, I removed the windlass, etc. 

What type of product would you put on the bolts attaching the windlass to the deck?  
Lanocote? Marine grease?  

one was extremely difficult to remove (4 hours) and i would prefer avoid that in the future…

Thanks in advance, 
Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

On Sep 6, 2016, at 12:04 PM, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

If your intent is to take it apart every two or three years to clean salt build up from between the deck and the windlass housing as recommended by Lofrans, pretty much anything will probably work.  

I assume the deck plate is stainless, as well as the bolts, so in this case you are protecting against two issues, galvanic corrosion and "galling" or "cold welding".  

Most kinds of stainless steel can exist in two forms "active" and "passive" depending on the availability of free oxygen.  These two forms are quite far apart on the galvanic scale.  When stainless on stainless threads are wet it sets up a good environment for active and passive forms to exist close to each other and potentially cause issues.  For this reason using a product that excludes water from the joint is a good idea. Lanocote, tef-gel, Never-Seez, or standard waterproof greases would all do this for a least a couple years. 

A simple way to think about stainless galling is that under very high pressures the protective surface oxide layer rubs off, the "pure" metal underneath "melts" into itself and the parts become welded together.  In preventing this, in my experience, Lanocote is good, Tef-Gel and Never-Seez are better.  Some greases are good, some not so much, at this.

So...  All told my recommendation would be either tef-gel or never-seez, and I'd know I could get them apart at any time in the future with no problems. On my boat I'd most likely use tef-gel only because it lives in my rigging tool bag, while the never-seez lives in the engine room!

Bill Kinney

SM#160 Harmonie

Narragansett Bay, RI, USA

On Sep 6, 2016, at 09:37, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good morning, 

To make story short, I removed the windlass, etc. 

What type of product would you put on the bolts attaching the windlass to the deck?  
Lanocote? Marine grease?  

one was extremely difficult to remove (4 hours) and i would prefer avoid that in the future…

Thanks in advance, 
Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

 

Good morning,

To make story short, I removed the windlass, etc.

What type of product would you put on the bolts attaching the windlass to the deck?
Lanocote? Marine grease?

one was extremely difficult to remove (4 hours) and i would prefer avoid that in the future…

Thanks in advance,
Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

 

Good afternoon,

Do you have the Hypalon Velcro Paddle holder available?
http://www.abinflatablesusa.com/product/velcro-paddle-holder-dg/

If yes, how much are they and how much would be the shipping for San Juan, Puerto Rico.

Sincerely, Alexandre

Windlass, Bill advice: White Lithium grease

Good morning Ben,

Mine is located in the forward passage/closet, near the forward bathroom.
Where the main mast is bolted.

Here is a picture
http://nikimat.com/mast_tricolor_anchor_light_connection/mast_tricolor_anchor_light_connection_8.jpg

Or you can look at the whole process I did to trouble shot.
http://nikimat.com/mast_tricolor_anchor_light_connection_2.html

Note: for now I removed my voltage stabilizer, as it was burn and I could not find the replacement parts.
I am using LED tricolor and anchor light, but this was just changed 3 months ago, so not enough data to know if the bulb will last.

On the 54 I would guess, situated near where the mast is bolt on and the wires go through.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 9/5/16, Martin K luvkante@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Monday, September 5, 2016, 2:10 PM


 









Alexandre,
Where is your
voltage-stabilizer box located?
MartinAMEL 54 #149
"CHIARA"Currently
BenalmadenaOn my way to Lanzarote
and Caribbean

Von meinem
iPad gesendet
Am 05.09.2016 um
18:04 schrieb Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:
















 






Good afternoon Ben,



What type of 24 Volt bulb do you use?

LED?



Do you have (adjustable) voltage-stabilizers?



Here are pictures from when I did not what they were.

http://nikimat.com/mast_tricolor_anchor_light_connection.html



Mark (SM #275 Creampuff) told me they were DXE VR200 voltage
regulator.



Wish I could help more.



Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 9/5/16, joedoakes66@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:



Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

To: amelyachtowners@...

Date: Monday, September 5, 2016, 10:22 AM





 



















Since we bought our SM last year (Feb 2015)

we've  replaced the anchor light bulb 5 times.
 The

boat was little used - fewer than 800 hours on engine
and

generator - and we've  had only the usual
maintenance

issues which makes this issue most perplexing.
 We're

trying to determine what could cause premature bulb

failures.  I've suspected a bad batch of bulbs; a
surge

in the electrical when running the generator; or perhaps

corroded fitting causing an on/off for the bulb thereby

shortening their life. 

Has anyone had a similar experience?

 Also it would wonderful to have a source for high
quality

bulbs.

ThanksBen and

GayleLa Bella VitaSM

347Port Louis, Grenada



















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