On Aug 14, 2016, at 1:41 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

That's what I do, Ben.

Kent

SM 243

Kristy

On Aug 14, 2016, at 12:50 PM, Ben Driver joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Jim 

Would it be possible to remove the two screws holding plastic nipple to base without removing hose?  That is, flex the hose enough to gain access to input side of nipple in order to replace joker?

Ben Driver

La Bella Vita

SM #347

6S

On Aug 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, 'Jim Anderson' capt.anderson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill, Ben & the Group,

I didn’t replace the joker/check valve this time because it wasn’t leaking. And (maybe someone can chime in on this..), because in order to replace the joker valve you have to remove the output nipple. But to do that, the only way I have succeeded so far is to use a heat gun to make the output hose flexible enough to bend so as to be able to pull it off of the output nipple. I’m afraid that repeatedly heating the hose every year or so, so as to be able to replace the joker valve and maybe the output nipple, will cause it to fail. I’ve replaced the aft output hose but would like to put off doing a similar job again if at all possible.

 

For spares I keep at least 1:  24V motor, white round plastic seal housing that screws to the motor, blade & nut kit, output nipples, Jabsco re-build kits, and now a bunch of 1.5MM X 75MM O-rings.

 

Also as an aside, I’ve replaced some of the four slotted screws that attach the seal housing to the toilet base with hex-drive screws. This solves the problem of the screwdriver constantly slipping out of the screw head as you’re hugging the toilet and watching the flashlight roll away while trying to disassemble or reassemble the unit. I’m not aboard right now so don’t have the size available.

 

Best,

Jim

SM384 Sirena Azul

On Aug 14, 2016, at 12:50 PM, Ben Driver joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

On Sun, 8/14/16, thomas. kleman <no_reply@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dive Compressor
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Sunday, August 14, 2016, 11:09 AM


 









Hello- I own SM2K #422 (L'ORIENT)
with the Onan MDKAV 7 KW genset. I've read all the dive
compressor posts and am considering installing one. The
Bauer Junior II retailer and some of the literature I've
read indicate an 8 KW genset is required......yet when I
read the conversation on this site as well as
Alexandre's detailed install plan on Nikimat, it seems
apparent that my 7 KW Onan will do......the peak draw from
the Bauer seems to be well below 7 KW when I read the specs,
making the info from Bauer internally inconsistent . Am I
missing something ? We dive quite a bit and are planning
trips to more remote locations so having access to dive
shops might be a problem going forward. I'd love to have
one but don't want to make a $4000 mistake.









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On Aug 14, 2016, at 12:14 PM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

On Sun, 8/14/16, cloudstreet100@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 12V & 24V receptacles
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Sunday, August 14, 2016, 11:30 AM


 









Alexandre,
August 14, 2016

Are you still
in Turks & Caicos?  I have just sailed there and would
like to meet you.
Joe
NanceSV CloudStreetSM2K Hull
#331









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On Aug 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, 'Jim Anderson' capt.anderson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill, Ben & the Group,

I didn’t replace the joker/check valve this time because it wasn’t leaking. And (maybe someone can chime in on this..), because in order to replace the joker valve you have to remove the output nipple. But to do that, the only way I have succeeded so far is to use a heat gun to make the output hose flexible enough to bend so as to be able to pull it off of the output nipple. I’m afraid that repeatedly heating the hose every year or so, so as to be able to replace the joker valve and maybe the output nipple, will cause it to fail. I’ve replaced the aft output hose but would like to put off doing a similar job again if at all possible.

 

For spares I keep at least 1:  24V motor, white round plastic seal housing that screws to the motor, blade & nut kit, output nipples, Jabsco re-build kits, and now a bunch of 1.5MM X 75MM O-rings.

 

Also as an aside, I’ve replaced some of the four slotted screws that attach the seal housing to the toilet base with hex-drive screws. This solves the problem of the screwdriver constantly slipping out of the screw head as you’re hugging the toilet and watching the flashlight roll away while trying to disassemble or reassemble the unit. I’m not aboard right now so don’t have the size available.

 

Best,

Jim

SM384 Sirena Azul