Date   

Re: Chain counter sensor

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Hi Bill,

 

Thanks. Would you happen to know what length of cable I will need for this, or do I not need any cable? I am not on the boat at present.

 

Cheers,

Paul

 

Paul Dowd & Sharon Brown

S/Y Ya Fohi, Amel 54 #98
tel: +44 (0)7710 466619

skype: pauldowd
web:
https://my.yb.tl/yafohi

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: 17 December 2021 23:56
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Chain counter sensor

 

Paul,

 

The one you listed is for a SM2k and will not work on the Lewmar windlass.

 

The one JLMERTZ listed is an aftermarket replacement for the OEM Sensor for a SM2k. It will not work on your 54.

 

In fact, neither is suitable for your Lewmar 560 chain counter.

 

This is what you need:

 

I hope this helps.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

On Fri, Dec 17, 2021 at 2:01 PM Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:

Hi,

 

Would someone be able to confirm that this is the chain counter sensor I need for A54:

 

https://www.ifm.com/gb/en/product/IB5072

 

 

Cheers,

Paul

 

Paul Dowd & Sharon Brown

S/Y Ya Fohi, Amel 54 #98
tel: +44 (0)7710 466619

skype: pauldowd
web:
https://my.yb.tl/yafohi

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: New Shower Curtains for SM s

George Green
 

Request from my lady wife:

She would appreciate any advice on replacing the shower curtains on our 2004 Amel 2000. In particular how to take down and have new ones made ,with the appropriate attachment points , etc etc.

Many thanks  in advance

George 

SM 434 COCO,  Preveza,  Greece 


More on engine replacement

william reynolds
 

I have a new Yanmar 4JH-80. It is a common rail. It was just installed prior to purchase of my boat. It had 14 hours.
I'm old school and almost backed out of the purchase because of the engine. I had heard the stories of common rail engines.
I talked to Yanmar US at great length, and contacted 6 owners of  Yanmar 4JH-80's. Everyone I talked to had had no problems withb their engines.
I finally got a written agreement from the Yanmar dealer in Martinique who had installed the engine that if I had any problem with the engine that they would 
come to me anywhere in the Eastern Caribbean (at their cost) and sort out the issue. This agreement was filed with Yanmar International. I bought the boat.
I now have 300 hours on the engine and operate it exactly as prescribed by Yanmar. So far, no problems. It is quiet, smooth and I can push the boat 
to 10 knots in a flat sea ,if needed. 
Would I recdcommend putting on in your Amel? No. Only a dealer with the proper diagnostic equipment can sort out any problems. There is only one dealer 
in the Eastern Caribbean with this capability. 
Yanmar's  4JH2-HTE is a non turbo, convential engine which I would have preferred. I'm not intimately familiar with the Volvos except parts and maintenance are
pricey. My engine of choice for SM would be the Perkins M92-B which is the newist version of the old Perkins 4-236, a bullit proof, normally asperated convential engine.
The older 4-236 engines are easy to work on, have parts available world wide and I owned or operated dozens of these engines some with over 20 thousand hours. Cost at parts and Power in the BVI is approx 14K US. (Fatty Goodlander has a new Perkins in his boat and  says nothing but glowing things about it) The BETA is another good choice of engine but the wait is long due to the demand. I have no experience with these engines but have talked with many satisfied owners.
Happy Boxing Day
Bill 
Cloudstreet  SM2K 331


Re: Ultra Anchor

Richard Dallett
 

Hello, Paolo,
I just purchased  a 45 kg Ultra for my 2007 A54 and it fit perfectly. For those in the USA, I bought it from Ultra Marine West in Ft. Lauderdale.  They did not know about the Amel discount mentioned by someone previously, but when I mentioned it they immediately offered me a 10% Boat Show discount.
Richard Dallett
A54 Mamba


Re: Ultra Anchor

PAOLO CUNEO
 

Hi all,

I too, am considering to upgrade to an ULTRA for my Whisper(SM 454 ) after the original Buegel failed me twice (admittedly, in 12 years and several thousand miles) So, here comes the ULTRA, on which I have some questions for my Amelians colleagues.

-             Weight. I see that Jean Pierre Germain of ELEUTHERA  is happy with 35 Kg. whilst JLMertz of COTTONBAY  and Victor Molero of ALENDOY opted for 45 Kg. Personally I am inclined for the 45 kg (for no scientific reason other than a supposed peace of mind and a better sleep) What is the thinking behind the decision you made? Also: will the windlass cope with 45 kg. plus maybe 20+ m. vertical chain  in a deep anchorage?

-             Space on the bow roller (with this  I hope to give an indication to Alan Leslie of ELYSE): I produced a home made template (pictured) of the 45 kg, and it seems to fit nicely. However, one word of caution: my bow roller (SM 454 launched jan 2005) seems definitely different from ALENDOY’s: I have no upper plate but a large s/s arch that can accommodate almost every size of anchor (picture)

-             Sourcing: I remember a special offer for ULTRA for Amel owners mentioned many times on this forum, but, for what I can remember, it was limited to a group purchase of at least 10 pcs. Any experience after that?

 

Many thanks in advance for all tips you will like giving me

Greetings to all members of our community.

Paolo Cuneo

SM 454 WHISPER


--
Paolo Cuneo
SM 454 Whisper


Re: Older style C-Drive; oil type and temperature

 

Mike,

In order to be completely clear to everyone in the group, I believe that you are referring to the Aluminum case C-Drive which was short-lived and replaced by the GRP case C-Drive. And, to be clear, there have been at least two versions of the GRP case. I am sure that there are other modifications like the increased shaft size beginning with hull 43 on A55s.

I have been aboard many SMs, 54s, & 55s. The GRP C-Drive will normally get to the operating temperature of the main engine, or about 80C. I believe this temperature exists because of some heat transfer from the main engine, rather than any internal heat generated. I assume that some heat is transferred to seawater because the C-Drive is in contact with seawater. This transfer would be greater with aluminum than with GRP.

Bill 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Sun, Dec 26, 2021 at 1:53 PM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:
Hello Everyone,

Just following up on this thread with some information sent to me from Amel. This is in regards to the older style C-Drive, in case it's relevant for anyone else out there:

"The recommended oil for the C-drive is 15W40 and you need 8 liters. It is not recommended to use a thicker oil on this system. It is true that there are some confusing discussions about this issue especially on the different social networks.

We have no exact operating temperature value of the C-drive  but it should be between 60 and 70 °C. There are many parameters to be taken into account when doing a temperature test (for instance the outside T° can influence the result).

AMEL has never launched any retrofit campaign regarding the replacement of your system with iron units. This operation is mainly considered when the aluminum C-drive fails and breaks and that there is no other alternative. The cost of the new system (including Upper and lower C-drive unit) is around 20 000 euros without labor and requires high skilled mechanical engineers to do the work. If the maintenance on your C-drive is correctly performed and if there no sign of dysfunction there is no reason to proceed with a replacement.

At last, it is indeed  better to repower your boat with an engine rated 78hp or close to it to avoid any excessive mechanical stress on the C-drive."

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ


On Wed, Nov 3, 2021, 7:55 AM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) via groups.io <svtrilogy53=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I'm curious if anyone out there still has the old aluminium C-Drive installed in their SuperMaramu?

Is the 80-90 gear oil recommended for both C-Drives (aluminium and cast iron)?

What is the operating temperature range for the C-Drive (how hot should the upper gearbox get while motoring)?

I'm also asking Amel these questions and will respond here with any useful answers I get back. I have a feeling there aren't many aluminium C-Drives still out there...

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
NZ


Re: Clearing Custom's in Miamai

Michael & Robyn
 

Greetings!

US CBP introduced a new version of the ROAM application.
https://www.cbp.gov/travel/pleasure-boats-private-flyers/pleasure-boat-overview/roam

We were able to use the previous version for a German flagged vessel with one or more none US citizens or residents.
It makes it a lot easier to provide the vessel and crew information with the app than to spend an hour on the phone with customs.
And it is a lot less painful for both sides than to spell every foreign name and city.
As foreigners we still need to come into a customs and immigration office in person.
Brunswick Georgia is a very simple procedure and very friendly officers. It is in walking distance from Brunswick Landing Marina.
They may not respond back in the ROAM app but they have all the data at hand when you show up in the CBP office
I believe the proper sequence is customs first and then immigration. (Doesn't matter in Brunswick since it is one office)
Let me know if you need help filling out the customs form
https://www.cbp.gov/document/forms/form-1300-vessel-entrance-or-clearance-statement?_ga=2.2541043.2120511789.1640554754-765413041.1640554754


Kind regards & Good Luck
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
Brunswick GA USA


Re: Older style C-Drive; oil type and temperature

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hello Everyone,

Just following up on this thread with some information sent to me from Amel. This is in regards to the older style C-Drive, in case it's relevant for anyone else out there:

"The recommended oil for the C-drive is 15W40 and you need 8 liters. It is not recommended to use a thicker oil on this system. It is true that there are some confusing discussions about this issue especially on the different social networks.

We have no exact operating temperature value of the C-drive  but it should be between 60 and 70 °C. There are many parameters to be taken into account when doing a temperature test (for instance the outside T° can influence the result).

AMEL has never launched any retrofit campaign regarding the replacement of your system with iron units. This operation is mainly considered when the aluminum C-drive fails and breaks and that there is no other alternative. The cost of the new system (including Upper and lower C-drive unit) is around 20 000 euros without labor and requires high skilled mechanical engineers to do the work. If the maintenance on your C-drive is correctly performed and if there no sign of dysfunction there is no reason to proceed with a replacement.

At last, it is indeed  better to repower your boat with an engine rated 78hp or close to it to avoid any excessive mechanical stress on the C-drive."

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ


On Wed, Nov 3, 2021, 7:55 AM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) via groups.io <svtrilogy53=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I'm curious if anyone out there still has the old aluminium C-Drive installed in their SuperMaramu?

Is the 80-90 gear oil recommended for both C-Drives (aluminium and cast iron)?

What is the operating temperature range for the C-Drive (how hot should the upper gearbox get while motoring)?

I'm also asking Amel these questions and will respond here with any useful answers I get back. I have a feeling there aren't many aluminium C-Drives still out there...

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
NZ


Re: Serafine is sold

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hello and Welcome to the Amel Family Roland and Paul. You will find the people in this forum an amazing group of people that will go out of their way to assist other fellow Amelians, and their knowledge invaluable. As an interesting aside, when we first started looking about 8 years ago, the first A54 that we saw was named Aventura. You’ll be happy to know that she is still named the same by another contributor to this forum.

 

Amels will take good care of the crew and are amazing adventure machines. Wishing you the best on your new adventure.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Roland Mueller via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2021 10:21 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Serafine is sold

 

Hello,

 

I’ve bought Serafine together with my good old study mate Paul Estermann. We renamed her to AVENTURA and she‘s flying the Swiss flag since 15 November 2021.

Im very happy owning such a beautiful sailing yacht.

I’ve followed this forum since a while and find it extremely interesting. Lots of new things to learn.

I wish Hajo and Julia all the best in their new journey on land.

 

Fair winds,

Roland Mueller 

SM150 AVENTURA 

 



On 26 Dec 2021, at 17:53, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:



Hajo,

 

You and Julia were two of the finest people we met on our tour of the world. If you remember the last time we met we were in the Canary Islands.

 

Judy says hi.

 

I know that Serafine will be well-cared for by her new owners.

 

Bill

 

 

On Sun, Dec 26, 2021 at 10:42 AM Hajo Hille <amw08@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Yacht Owners,

 for your information:

 After 11 years of sailing with our Super Maramu “Serafine” we sold her. Now she is on the way under a new name to new adventures.

 I want to say Thank You to all members of this group, while they stood for help and advice, whenever we had a technical problem with our yacht. This forum is matchless !

 Especially I like to thank Bill Rouse, whom I was lucky enough to meet in Turkey, while we were moored in the same bay. He gave me the first lessons in repairing and maintaining my Super Marmu after I had destroyed my bowthruster. Kind regards to Judy, too.

 

 For 2022 we wish you all the best, fair winds and a hands breadth of water under the keel.

Stay healthy !

 

Hajo und Julia

SM 150 Serafine

 

 


Re: Serafine is sold

Roland Mueller
 

Hello,

I’ve bought Serafine together with my good old study mate Paul Estermann. We renamed her to AVENTURA and she‘s flying the Swiss flag since 15 November 2021.
Im very happy owning such a beautiful sailing yacht.
I’ve followed this forum since a while and find it extremely interesting. Lots of new things to learn.
I wish Hajo and Julia all the best in their new journey on land.

Fair winds,
Roland Mueller 
SM150 AVENTURA 


On 26 Dec 2021, at 17:53, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Hajo,

You and Julia were two of the finest people we met on our tour of the world. If you remember the last time we met we were in the Canary Islands.

Judy says hi.

I know that Serafine will be well-cared for by her new owners.

Bill


On Sun, Dec 26, 2021 at 10:42 AM Hajo Hille <amw08@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Yacht Owners,

 for your information:

 After 11 years of sailing with our Super Maramu “Serafine” we sold her. Now she is on the way under a new name to new adventures.

 I want to say Thank You to all members of this group, while they stood for help and advice, whenever we had a technical problem with our yacht. This forum is matchless !

 Especially I like to thank Bill Rouse, whom I was lucky enough to meet in Turkey, while we were moored in the same bay. He gave me the first lessons in repairing and maintaining my Super Marmu after I had destroyed my bowthruster. Kind regards to Judy, too.

 

 For 2022 we wish you all the best, fair winds and a hands breadth of water under the keel.

Stay healthy !

 

Hajo und Julia

SM 150 Serafine

 

 


Re: New Engine/more than anyone would ever want to know

amelforme
 

Hi James and I know your boat as I sold it to the original owners and I visited it while it was under construction in La Rochelle. They were experienced sailors and rather particular. The original outfitting of the boat was well considered and I enjoyed working closely with them to ensure they got the boat they were dreaming of. If you would like a copy of the original invoice, send me your email.

 

You have received a whole lot of good advice from the group. Your original Volvo engine was actually designed and built by Perkins Diesel first as a London  taxi cab engine originally and later marinized into the Perkins Prima series. Later it further evolved when Perkins was purchased by Caterpillar and Caterpillar told them to quit marinizing engines. Perkins sold nearly complete engines to Volvo who marinized them somewhat differently than what Perkins had been doing. Volvo painted them green and immediately doubled the prices of nearly all the spare parts. The ‘new’ Volvo D2 75 is an engine designed for marine service as are all the engines Yanmar markets in their marine division. The Beta is based on an engine that has been known to run up 20,000 hours plus in stationary applications such as agricultural irrigation where the engine is turned on, brought up to about 75% power and left to do its job day and night until it is replaced. They even have remote systems to replace the oil, filter and coolant on-the-fly so that they never get shut down. I heard anecdotally that when these engines are removed from service, the guys who remove them take them home to replace the bearings, bushings, valves, rings and gaskets and sell them to others for similar duty. Rarely do they need to be bored or have other machining done.

 

Any of these engines will work well for you. If you talk to ten knowledgeable people, you will get different opinions of which one to employ. I have my favorite that is based on having sold hundreds of Amel Super Maramus, new and used, combined, and the information I was able to learn from each owner’s experience. As I pushed my associates at Amel for years to drop the Volvo and use Yanmar may give you a hint at my choice but that story would take another paragraph to develop…

 

There are several very vital elements to be aware of for anyone changing an engine in an Amel. First and foremost, be absolutely certain to get a replacement that has an isolated negative/full earth return DC electrical system. To change the common system for the isolated one after the fact can be and usually is a pain in the wallet. All Amel boats have this specialized electrical system for good reason. It is identical to the system used in almost all aluminum and most steel boats to eliminate the possibility of electrolytic galvanic corrosion. It also provides “cleaner” DC service to all the DC components. Make sure your new engine is so equipped. Anyone who says it doesn’t make any difference is wrong and does not deserve your business.

 

In North America and Europe for sure and elsewhere sooner than later , BE SURE to get a replacement that has certified exhaust emissions of the same tier as the original engine OR BETTER/LATER. I bring in many SM 53 that were sold to folks outside of North America for resale here. On the importation paperwork, there are very specific questions regarding the originality of the engine and probing question about any replacements. The gist of this in North America and Europe is if your engine isn’t emissions compliant you may not get it imported or registered in many areas. This is a developing byzantine complication so be sure your replacement is compliant as you could plunge into bureaucratic hell if it is not.

 

Engine replacement is a good time to take a good look at essential ancillary equipment. On boats with the Amel C-Drive system, replace the rubberized corded hose and large diameter hose clamps that are the seal against seawater intrusion where the top of the external vertical leg that the prop is mounted on to the bottom of the 90 degree C-Drive gearbox in the engine room. It’s time, and easier to do with the engine out. It is also time to change the rubberized donuts in the vibration isolator and have the required alignment tool made in a machine shop if there isn’t one on the boat. You cannot align the drive system without one . It is also smart to change the four vertical “motor mounts”  that support the sub-frame that the engine is mounted on if they are the originals as they will have reached service limits and, again, much easier to accomplish without an engine in place. Everything that touches the engine, hoses, wiring and linkages should be deeply inspected and replaced if there are indications that they are at or approaching their end of operational status.

 

Do yourself a big favor and get the Bill Rouse Amel Boat Owners book. It is the singular best investment you will ever make in your Amel. Bill and his wife sailed around the world in their Super Maramu . Bill is very tech savvy and his book is full of pages packed with photos on how to maintain and fix just about everything aboard, including all the operations I have mentioned so far. Even for folks who don’t know which end of a screwdriver to use, you will understand how things work to better explain to those who will be doing repairs what the problem is and show them a proven route to satisfaction. No, Bill is not my favorite Uncle. Yes, he is one of a few recognized Amel Technocrats who will make your life easier and less expensive regarding most things Amel related.

 

Good luck with your new Amel and never hesitate to avail yourself of all the combined knowledge of the Amel Owners Group. At the very least, it is the best place to start for any challenge or curiosity you may have on your Amel.

 

All the best,

Joel

 

           JOEL F. POTTER ~ CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST, L.L.C.

                                         The Experienced AMEL Guy

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                  Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Rainsbury
Sent: Friday, December 24, 2021 5:19 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] New Engine

 

Dear Amelians,

Season’s Greetings!
For various reasons, we’re considering re powering our recently purchased boat - we’ve had quotes for repair of the old Volvo Penta but there’s not much in it vs a new engine. Ideally, we’d have gone with a Betamarine but the lead time on that if ordered now is July (!). We have a year career break, starting in July, and I can foresee that date slipping if we wait for a Beta, and eating into our year off. So we’re looking at other options - a new Volvo or a Yanmar in particular (although would consider alternatives). Any thoughts on which engine from the group?

Thanks v much
James

Folie a Deux
SM #239
Southampton UK


Re: Serafine is sold

 

Hajo,

You and Julia were two of the finest people we met on our tour of the world. If you remember the last time we met we were in the Canary Islands.

Judy says hi.

I know that Serafine will be well-cared for by her new owners.

Bill


On Sun, Dec 26, 2021 at 10:42 AM Hajo Hille <amw08@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Yacht Owners,

 for your information:

 After 11 years of sailing with our Super Maramu “Serafine” we sold her. Now she is on the way under a new name to new adventures.

 I want to say Thank You to all members of this group, while they stood for help and advice, whenever we had a technical problem with our yacht. This forum is matchless !

 Especially I like to thank Bill Rouse, whom I was lucky enough to meet in Turkey, while we were moored in the same bay. He gave me the first lessons in repairing and maintaining my Super Marmu after I had destroyed my bowthruster. Kind regards to Judy, too.

 

 For 2022 we wish you all the best, fair winds and a hands breadth of water under the keel.

Stay healthy !

 

Hajo und Julia

SM 150 Serafine

 

 


Serafine is sold

Hajo Hille
 

Dear Amel Yacht Owners,

 for your information:

 After 11 years of sailing with our Super Maramu “Serafine” we sold her. Now she is on the way under a new name to new adventures.

 I want to say Thank You to all members of this group, while they stood for help and advice, whenever we had a technical problem with our yacht. This forum is matchless !

 Especially I like to thank Bill Rouse, whom I was lucky enough to meet in Turkey, while we were moored in the same bay. He gave me the first lessons in repairing and maintaining my Super Marmu after I had destroyed my bowthruster. Kind regards to Judy, too.

 

 For 2022 we wish you all the best, fair winds and a hands breadth of water under the keel.

Stay healthy !

 

Hajo und Julia

SM 150 Serafine

 

 


Re: Rudder Packing—again

James Alton
 

Bill,
   I like your solution using the PTFE Dripless packing on the rudder shaft and suspect it will solve your leakage and repacking problem.  I had a customer with a twin screw  Gulfstar who amazingly made a circumnavigation without ever tightening either packing gland on the prop shafts.  Both glands were dripping slightly after the trip but it was not enough for him to worry with apparently.  Both glands were packed with the Teflon impregnated packing with the he Dripless Packing additive.  I have a package of the Dripless additive aboard and will be adding it to the rudder and propellor shaft log at some point but have been getting excellent service with just the PTFE packing and the Amel installed grease gland so not a priority project.   Best,. James Alton,. SV Sueno, Maramu #220


On Sun, Dec 26, 2021 at 8:16 AM, Bill Kinney
<cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:
This is my update to a former thread on rudder packing for the Super Maramu.

When we needed to replace ours we used standard 3/8” packing, which is a tiny bit smaller than the 10mm size this system was designed for.  As many others have found, installing the packing in the stuffing box is very difficult. The stuffing box is designed to use three rings of packing. The issue I (and many of you!) ran into was the height of three rings was so high that it was impossible to engage enough threads of the plastic nut to tighten it without stripping out the threads.  

I pounded on the packing with a pipe and a 5 pound sledge.  I lubricated it.  I pushed and prodded every what I could thing of, but no love.

Finally in desperation, I took out the top ring of packing and tightened down the nut on the remaining two.  This “kind of” worked.  But no matter how much I tightened the nut it still dripped.  Very slowly, but more than zero.  Another solution was called for.

I resorted to a product I have had good luck with on propeller shafts. A  PTFE putty sold by Western Pacific Trading as “Drip-Less Packing.” Western Pacific Trading is the largest supplier of all forms of packing for small marine shafts in the USA, and is sold through most chandleries. This was the first time I tried their Drip-Less packing on a rudder shaft with its very low speed rotation. The smallest package size is plenty of material for this application.

You install one ring of standard packing at the bottom, pack in some of the moldable packing which comes as a stiff, green putty, and then install a second ring of standard packing on top.  The standard packing rings are there to just hold the putty in place, the putty does the sealing.  Since I had control over how much I added, I could reduce the thickness a bit, and have enough room to engage threads on the nut.

As I expected, it took a couple of times sailing, and re-tightening the nut to fully compress the packing and stop all water intrusion.  But now it seems perfect. That area around the rudder shaft is, as it should be, bone dry.  If my experience using this material on propeller shafts is any indication, it should be very close to a permanent solution.

I believe some people have reported success going down to 5/16 inch packing, then tightening the nut to squash it enough to seal.  I haven’t tried this myself. I was reluctant because if I needed to remove ALL the packing to redo the install, I didn’t want to have to haul the boat, or deal with that amount of water influx. 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL


Re: Rudder Packing—again

william reynolds
 

Francoise at Amel in Martinique has a great solution. He has designed an extension of the shaft tube which is epoxied and screwed in place. I now can insert 5 -3/8's  packing strips and 6 if I press down hard. I use a 2" sch. 80 PVC pipe to set the packing and don't drive them in too forcefully. I use the gland nut to apply the pressure to stop all leaks. 10m months, lots of bashing and no leaks.
Bill 
Cloudstreet


Re: Why not a Yanmar Engine?

Alan Leslie
 

Eric, I agree.....non-electronic is the way to go.
Nearly all the engine issues on this forum are with Volvo engines with electronic control.
A "normal" old fashioned diesel engine is much easier to keep running and problem solve.
They are simple, mechanical devices and diesel mechanics all over the world understand them.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Rudder Packing—again

Alan Leslie
 

Interesting Bill,

I had this issue some years ago...couldn't get all three rings of packing in and thread the nut.
I put in 2 and it leaked, so I put in a turn of 8mm cord and tightened the nut to stop it leaking. We sailed for a while (actually about 3 months), then finally on haul out, took out the piece of cord and managed to get the third ring in, with some pounding, and it hasn't leaked in 7 years, with no adjustment of the nut needed - yet.
The rudder gland is normally above the waterline, unless the boat is overloaded at the stern, water ingress shouldn't be a major problem.

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Rudder Packing—again

Bill Kinney
 

This is my update to a former thread on rudder packing for the Super Maramu.

When we needed to replace ours we used standard 3/8” packing, which is a tiny bit smaller than the 10mm size this system was designed for.  As many others have found, installing the packing in the stuffing box is very difficult. The stuffing box is designed to use three rings of packing. The issue I (and many of you!) ran into was the height of three rings was so high that it was impossible to engage enough threads of the plastic nut to tighten it without stripping out the threads.  

I pounded on the packing with a pipe and a 5 pound sledge.  I lubricated it.  I pushed and prodded every what I could thing of, but no love.

Finally in desperation, I took out the top ring of packing and tightened down the nut on the remaining two.  This “kind of” worked.  But no matter how much I tightened the nut it still dripped.  Very slowly, but more than zero.  Another solution was called for.

I resorted to a product I have had good luck with on propeller shafts. A  PTFE putty sold by Western Pacific Trading as “Drip-Less Packing.” Western Pacific Trading is the largest supplier of all forms of packing for small marine shafts in the USA, and is sold through most chandleries. This was the first time I tried their Drip-Less packing on a rudder shaft with its very low speed rotation. The smallest package size is plenty of material for this application.

You install one ring of standard packing at the bottom, pack in some of the moldable packing which comes as a stiff, green putty, and then install a second ring of standard packing on top.  The standard packing rings are there to just hold the putty in place, the putty does the sealing.  Since I had control over how much I added, I could reduce the thickness a bit, and have enough room to engage threads on the nut.

As I expected, it took a couple of times sailing, and re-tightening the nut to fully compress the packing and stop all water intrusion.  But now it seems perfect. That area around the rudder shaft is, as it should be, bone dry.  If my experience using this material on propeller shafts is any indication, it should be very close to a permanent solution.

I believe some people have reported success going down to 5/16 inch packing, then tightening the nut to squash it enough to seal.  I haven’t tried this myself. I was reluctant because if I needed to remove ALL the packing to redo the install, I didn’t want to have to haul the boat, or deal with that amount of water influx. 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL


Why not a Yanmar Engine?

Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi James,

I had extremely good luck with my Yanmar 4jh3hte engine . With over 7500 hours I decided I did not want to change it to an electronic engine

I did not have one problem with old the engine..

 

 

I went to the local dealer and asked what the cost was to rebuild my engine. He said why not just put a new one in. I said I don’t want an electronic engine. He said you could install a NON ELECTRONIC 4jh4hte or 4jh4hte-1 engine. I believe the -1 is EU approve. If you don’t want 110 Hp the 4jh4 without the intercooler is 85 hp.

 

It is a marine engine and not a marinized tractor engine.

 

It went in very easily with a brand-new transmission. I now have over 400 hours on it, and it is working like a champ.

Happy Holidays

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of James Rainsbury
Sent: Friday, December 24, 2021 5:19 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] New Engine

 

Dear Amelians,

Season’s Greetings!
For various reasons, we’re considering re powering our recently purchased boat - we’ve had quotes for repair of the old Volvo Penta but there’s not much in it vs a new engine. Ideally, we’d have gone with a Betamarine but the lead time on that if ordered now is July (!). We have a year career break, starting in July, and I can foresee that date slipping if we wait for a Beta, and eating into our year off. So we’re looking at other options - a new Volvo or a Yanmar in particular (although would consider alternatives). Any thoughts on which engine from the group?

Thanks v much
James

Folie a Deux
SM #239
Southampton UK


Re: Shenanigans

Patrick McAneny
 

Laura, We we’re glad we had a chance to stop by and say Hi! We are now anchored at the south end of Key Biscayne and leaving early in the morning for Eleuthera. Thanks again for your offer of help.Maybe we will see you over there.
Pat and Diane,
SM Shenanigans

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