Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine Problems Amel 54
Tony Robinson <tonywrobinson51@...>
Hello James, I really sympathise because something similar happend to me last year in Corfu. The local main Volvo Penta agent came out with the right diagnstic tools i.e. a computer which plugs in above the sink in the galley, in the opening locker which gives access behind the wheel and instrument panel. Like you.....no error codes came up. He then diagnosed a failed sensor. FYI this engine is lifted straight out of Volvo cars and marinised by Volvo Penta and they did a totally crap job in the conversion e.g. putting the saltwater pump over the top of the alternator. When the punp drips (and they all do eventually), it drips straight on to the alternator despite the tray underneath the pump which is useless. Anyway. my dealer diagnosed the sensor on the flywheel and changed it - no difference. He then raided another D3 engine and took off all the sensors and then methodically changed all the sensors on my engine, one by one (and there are several). The problem turned out to be the sensor on the end of the common rail - it prevented fuel from getting through to the injectors. This is a known problem on these engines because Volvo redesigned this sensor - if you get access to a parts list there are two part numbers for this sensor - the old one and the new one. The engine now runs fine, but like you, I was immobilsed for a week (I was mid cruise) and it was expensive - about 1500 euros when all was done. My view on this engine is that it is shit. It is full of electronics and they have no place in a marine environment. I contend that Yanmars are much more reliable and since they use the same gearbox I am informed by a local mechanic in Greece that a new 100 odd hp Yanmar could be fitted easily for about 12/13000 euros. One more major problem with my D3 and I will go ahead. BTW, my D3 has done only 1280 hours. Hope this helps and good luck. Tony Robinson, Catriona R Amel 54 #102 From: "James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners]" To: "amelyachtowners@..." Sent: Friday, October 23, 2015 12:42 AM Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine Problems Amel 54 Hello all, as a new Amel 54 owner (Phantom - ex Bozo Cinq) I would like to see if anyone out there can give me advice on the Volvo Penta D3-110 engine on my Amel 54. It seems in good condition and has about 2,400 hours on it. I bought the boat in June and the engine ran well for the 4-day passage from Florida to Maryland. After I arrived in Annapolis it would not start again, and no one has been able to determine the problem since then. It has not started since I arrived, now nearly 4 months, and there are no error codes on the engine display. I am about at the end of my rope......... Here's a recap of the history: I had a local Volvo "dealer" Dick Vosbury look at the engine in mid July, and they told me I had a "bad" fuel pump, since the pump was not pressurizing the common rail. It seemed like a logical answer to the problem, since there were no diagnostic error codes on the displays, and I consulted a local engine shop (Bay Shore) who sent the "defective" pump out to a fuel service shop for evaluation. They came back and said they would have to exchange it, since it could not be serviced (I asked them to test it first, but I think now in hindsight they just replaced it). Anyway, I bought a new one ($1,600 - ouch!) and installed it. I also had them service all the injectors (another $700), since I already had the valve cover off with the injectors removed for inspection. After putting everything back together with the new pump, I tried to start again - no go - same good crank but no fire. I then called in Seven Seas (another Volvo Penta "dealer") - Vosbury gave up and told me they were too busy to help me again - ever. I think they just wanted to sell me the new pump. The service guy from Seven Seas has now been here 3 times with no success. The first time, he saw the same pump issue that Vosbury found. The rail is not getting pressurized. He told me I probably had a bad replacement pump, so I sent it back to the testing folks, who in turn sent it to Bosch. Bosch came back telling us the pump is good. Seven Seas came out again last week and ran some more tests. He again confirmed that the pump is not pressurizing the rail and tested the ECU signal and the MPROP metering valve attached to the pump. The MPROP is showing a de-energized resistance of 20 ohms, whereas the specs call for 2 ohms. He also told me that the ECU is not sending a voltage signal to the MROP to energize while cranking. He then reportedly contacted "Volvo" (whoever they are?) and they suggested it might be a "bad" ECU. There was no answer on the MPROP test. I initially believed that the ECU might be the issue, as it seems to be not telling the MPROP to energize the pump during crank, but I still do not understand why there are no diagnostic codes reporting a problem. Regardless, I authorized them to get a new ECU (another $4,000), which they did. Yesterday they brought out and installed the new ECU. It made no difference - the engine still will not start, and at this point there are no answers or even clues. Seven Seas told me they would go back to Volvo for more ideas (or more likely experiments). Frankly, none of these Volvo Penta dealers know much about the engine, and I really feel as if they have been just fishing here. I have spent more that $7K chasing theories from "Volvo." I have never talked with any of these "Volvo" folks and no one will give me a good contact to call. They all say they cannot give out telephone numbers or they will get in trouble. In my opinion what I need is a real Volvo Penta Factory Representative who knows this engine and can fix it for real. No more testing and wild goose chases..........I wish I could get the computer code that the ECU uses to control the engine. Unfortunately, that seems to be top-secret information. I would surely appreciate any advice anyone out there in Amel Land might be able to give me. I have tried nearly everything and gotten nowhere. I am out of options - and "test" money. A new engine might have been the right move all along.......... Thanks, Jamie Wendell Amel 54, Phantom |
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine Problems Amel 54
Ric Gottschalk <ric@...>
Where are you keeping the boat? Are you a local. I dont know seven seas, but vosbury and bay shore are pretty good. One other choice is chris oliver of portside marina. He works on perkins and volvos. Has been my go to guy for 10 years. Call me if I can
be of further help.
Ric
Bali Hai sn24
Ric Gottschalk Kitchen Magic Refacers, Inc
Office 410-923-5800
Fax 410-923-5802
On Oct 22, 2015, at 7:45 PM, James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine Problems Amel 54
Veit Mueller <veitm@...>
Hi Jamie: As you are in Annapolis - I have used Zimmerman Marine (Herrington Harbor, just a couple miles South) a couple of times with really good success, as have some other Amels. Suggest you call them, they've been reasonable and found a couple of problems which other people could not solve over the course of a year. Cheers, Veit atman , SM 215 Sent from my vm iPad On Oct 22, 2015, at 9:46 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine Problems Amel 54
Hi Jamie, and welcome to the family! I'm not a mechanic, and wouldn't even hazard a guess as to what's going on with your Volvo. But I do know that the Volvo guru of the Caribbean is Danny Ramos, owner of Marine Mechanical I Fajardo, Puerto Rico. He's a great guy who Volvo sends all over the world to work on mega yachts and to teach mechanics how to work on Volvos. I'm going to contact him and send a copy of your post, in the hopes that he will have suggestions...if that's alright with you. As much as you've spent on ineffective "fixes", paying him to fly up and figure it out might be the least expensive way to go. If it's OK with you for me to send your post, can you give me the full model and serial numbers of your engine? That's probably something he'd want to know. Good luck, Kent SM243 Kristy On Oct 22, 2015, at 7:42 PM, James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Hello all, as a new Amel 54 owner (Phantom - ex Bozo Cinq) I would like to see if anyone out there can give me advice on the Volvo Penta D3-110 engine on my Amel 54. It seems in good condition and has about 2,400 hours on it. I bought the boat in June and the engine ran well for the 4-day passage from Florida to Maryland. After I arrived in Annapolis it would not start again, and no one has been able to determine the problem since then. It has not started since I arrived, now nearly 4 months, and there are no error codes on the engine display. I am about at the end of my rope......... Here's a recap of the history: I had a local Volvo "dealer" Dick Vosbury look at the engine in mid July, and they told me I had a "bad" fuel pump, since the pump was not pressurizing the common rail. It seemed like a logical answer to the problem, since there were no diagnostic error codes on the displays, and I consulted a local engine shop (Bay Shore) who sent the "defective" pump out to a fuel service shop for evaluation. They came back and said they would have to exchange it, since it could not be serviced (I asked them to test it first, but I think now in hindsight they just replaced it). Anyway, I bought a new one ($1,600 - ouch!) and installed it. I also had them service all the injectors (another $700), since I already had the valve cover off with the injectors removed for inspection. After putting everything back together with the new pump, I tried to start again - no go - same good crank but no fire. I then called in Seven Seas (another Volvo Penta "dealer") - Vosbury gave up and told me they were too busy to help me again - ever. I think they just wanted to sell me the new pump. The service guy from Seven Seas has now been here 3 times with no success. The first time, he saw the same pump issue that Vosbury found. The rail is not getting pressurized. He told me I probably had a bad replacement pump, so I sent it back to the testing folks, who in turn sent it to Bosch. Bosch came back telling us the pump is good. Seven Seas came out again last week and ran some more tests. He again confirmed that the pump is not pressurizing the rail and tested the ECU signal and the MPROP metering valve attached to the pump. The MPROP is showing a de-energized resistance of 20 ohms, whereas the specs call for 2 ohms. He also told me that the ECU is not sending a voltage signal to the MROP to energize while cranking. He then reportedly contacted "Volvo" (whoever they are?) and they suggested it might be a "bad" ECU. There was no answer on the MPROP test. I initially believed that the ECU might be the issue, as it seems to be not telling the MPROP to energize the pump during crank, but I still do not understand why there are no diagnostic codes reporting a problem. Regardless, I authorized them to get a new ECU (another $4,000), which they did. Yesterday they brought out and installed the new ECU. It made no difference - the engine still will not start, and at this point there are no answers or even clues. Seven Seas told me they would go back to Volvo for more ideas (or more likely experiments). Frankly, none of these Volvo Penta dealers know much about the engine, and I really feel as if they have been just fishing here. I have spent more that $7K chasing theories from "Volvo." I have never talked with any of these "Volvo" folks and no one will give me a good contact to call. They all say they cannot give out telephone numbers or they will get in trouble. In my opinion what I need is a real Volvo Penta Factory Representative who knows this engine and can fix it for real. No more testing and wild goose chases..........I wish I could get the computer code that the ECU uses to control the engine. Unfortunately, that seems to be top-secret information. I would surely appreciate any advice anyone out there in Amel Land might be able to give me. I have tried nearly everything and gotten nowhere. I am out of options - and "test" money. A new engine might have been the right move all along.......... Thanks, Jamie Wendell Amel 54, Phantom |
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine Problems Amel 54
Jeff Wingfield <ki4jde@...>
Jamie: Yours is a sad and disappointing story indeed. I have experienced the same "no start" symptom on the same engine. Cause: solenoid/sensor which tells fuel pump to get fuel to common rail. It was diagnosed in twenty minutes and replaced in thirty by the Ft. Lauderdale Volvo service outfit. It is about a $450 part. This may well not be your problem, but it surely sound similar. I can send you the part number. It's failure was attributed to a nearby lightning strike. Jeff LAST TANGO On Oct 22, 2015, at 19:42, James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Engine Problems Amel 54
JEFFREY KRAUS
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Re: Engine Problems Amel 54
william_maffei@...
What a frustrating problem! I don't have a Volvo engine in my Amel however, when researching Amel when in the market I remember looking at Volvo Penta as I would have needed a new engine if I purchased a certain boat... Anyway, I remember the D3 engine had a recall with the EVC (Electronic Vessel Control) Unit. If I were you I would call Volvo directly and ask them to see if your model and serial number was part of the original recall. Best of luck and welcome to the community! I am sure you will receive some great feed back foremother owners.
Bill M SM #195 It's all Good |
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Engine Problems Amel 54
James Wendell <ms42phantom54@...>
Hello all, as a new Amel 54 owner (Phantom - ex Bozo Cinq) I would like to see if anyone out there can give me advice on the Volvo Penta D3-110 engine on my Amel 54. It seems in good condition and has about 2,400 hours on it. I bought the boat in June and the engine ran well for the 4-day passage from Florida to Maryland. After I arrived in Annapolis it would not start again, and no one has been able to determine the problem since then. It has not started since I arrived, now nearly 4 months, and there are no error codes on the engine display. I am about at the end of my rope......... Here's a recap of the history: I had a local Volvo "dealer" Dick Vosbury look at the engine in mid July, and they told me I had a "bad" fuel pump, since the pump was not pressurizing the common rail. It seemed like a logical answer to the problem, since there were no diagnostic error codes on the displays, and I consulted a local engine shop (Bay Shore) who sent the "defective" pump out to a fuel service shop for evaluation. They came back and said they would have to exchange it, since it could not be serviced (I asked them to test it first, but I think now in hindsight they just replaced it). Anyway, I bought a new one ($1,600 - ouch!) and installed it. I also had them service all the injectors (another $700), since I already had the valve cover off with the injectors removed for inspection. After putting everything back together with the new pump, I tried to start again - no go - same good crank but no fire. I then called in Seven Seas (another Volvo Penta "dealer") - Vosbury gave up and told me they were too busy to help me again - ever. I think they just wanted to sell me the new pump. The service guy from Seven Seas has now been here 3 times with no success. The first time, he saw the same pump issue that Vosbury found. The rail is not getting pressurized. He told me I probably had a bad replacement pump, so I sent it back to the testing folks, who in turn sent it to Bosch. Bosch came back telling us the pump is good. Seven Seas came out again last week and ran some more tests. He again confirmed that the pump is not pressurizing the rail and tested the ECU signal and the MPROP metering valve attached to the pump. The MPROP is showing a de-energized resistance of 20 ohms, whereas the specs call for 2 ohms. He also told me that the ECU is not sending a voltage signal to the MROP to energize while cranking. He then reportedly contacted "Volvo" (whoever they are?) and they suggested it might be a "bad" ECU. There was no answer on the MPROP test. I initially believed that the ECU might be the issue, as it seems to be not telling the MPROP to energize the pump during crank, but I still do not understand why there are no diagnostic codes reporting a problem. Regardless, I authorized them to get a new ECU (another $4,000), which they did. Yesterday they brought out and installed the new ECU. It made no difference - the engine still will not start, and at this point there are no answers or even clues. Seven Seas told me they would go back to Volvo for more ideas (or more likely experiments). Frankly, none of these Volvo Penta dealers know much about the engine, and I really feel as if they have been just fishing here. I have spent more that $7K chasing theories from "Volvo." I have never talked with any of these "Volvo" folks and no one will give me a good contact to call. They all say they cannot give out telephone numbers or they will get in trouble. In my opinion what I need is a real Volvo Penta Factory Representative who knows this engine and can fix it for real. No more testing and wild goose chases..........I wish I could get the computer code that the ECU uses to control the engine. Unfortunately, that seems to be top-secret information. I would surely appreciate any advice anyone out there in Amel Land might be able to give me. I have tried nearly everything and gotten nowhere. I am out of options - and "test" money. A new engine might have been the right move all along.......... Thanks, Jamie Wendell Amel 54, Phantom |
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electric Mass -defect
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Good afternoon Wolfgang,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Sorry to read about your Mass problem… I am not experience enough to have an opinion if it is related to the AIS and can only share my own experience: August 2014 the Mass Circuit light would go one: http://nikimat.com/mass_circuit_electrolysis_protection.html Ian Shepherd SM2K #414 Crusader said it had that twice and on both occasion it was caused by a leaking seal on the toilet macerator pump. It was also my case. As Ian mentioned: I disconnected the positive and negative wires, tested the "mass circuit electric leak" and no more light! The leak was found. Just in case, connected back and of course light back up! Here is what Ian added later on: Just a bit of logic which says that current leakage is most likely caused by sea water getting into something electrical through wear, such as the seals on an electrical motor. This narrows it down quite a bit, and luck played its part by my looking at the macerator motors first. Don't think too deep. The wiring on an Amel is pretty well installed and robust and so is unlikely to be at fault. Later on did additional tests: which was trying to find the leak by switching Off the Head Diruptor in the engine room. Unfortunately, it did not help finding the faulty device, I “guess” because connected to the positive wire. I am not sure that I can assume since mine show “Negative Mass” you will find the leak from a negative wire, but it would be my “guess”. To be in the safe side, I would disconnect both positive and negative wire one by one of all system onboard and see if the light stops. Since you suspect the AIS, I would start from there… Disconnect both wire and see if the problem still appear. Then I strongly suggest disconnecting both wire of the forward head and check, then the aft head and check and so on. Again, I am not knowledgeable enough and can only share my experience and how Ian helped me solve this issue. Hope you get more feedback and please keep up posted. And be gratefull the Mass is part of your system! Sincerely, Alexandre SM2K #289 NIKIMAT Emerald Bay Marina, Georgetown, Exumas, The Bahamas. -------------------------------------------- On Thu, 10/22/15, Wolfgang Weber webercardio@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electric Mass -defect To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...> Date: Thursday, October 22, 2015, 3:24 PM Hello to the group, when testing the electric Mass Defect switch on the board , the lamp lights up on mass minus switchpostion and turns down after 20 seconds to off. By the time I have a defect on my AIS Furuno FA50 - no connection = via LAN.Do you think that these 2 things belong together ?Where to start the surch for failure ? Disconnect minus on the 24 V board of each consumer one after the other ? Any preferences ?Thank you very much. Wolfgang Weber SY ELISE # 162 AMEL 54 #yiv4051242242 #yiv4051242242 -- #yiv4051242242ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #yiv4051242242 #yiv4051242242ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #yiv4051242242 #yiv4051242242ygrp-mkp #yiv4051242242hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #yiv4051242242 #yiv4051242242ygrp-mkp #yiv4051242242ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #yiv4051242242 #yiv4051242242ygrp-mkp .yiv4051242242ad { padding:0 0;} #yiv4051242242 #yiv4051242242ygrp-mkp .yiv4051242242ad p { margin:0;} #yiv4051242242 #yiv4051242242ygrp-mkp .yiv4051242242ad a { color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;} #yiv4051242242 #yiv4051242242ygrp-sponsor #yiv4051242242ygrp-lc { font-family:Arial;} #yiv4051242242 #yiv4051242242ygrp-sponsor #yiv4051242242ygrp-lc #yiv4051242242hd { margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;} #yiv4051242242 #yiv4051242242ygrp-sponsor #yiv4051242242ygrp-lc 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Electric Mass -defect
Wolfgang Weber <webercardio@...>
Hello to the group,
when testing the electric Mass Defect switch on the board , the lamp lights up on mass minus switchpostion and turns down after 20 seconds to off. By the time I have a defect on my AIS Furuno FA50 - no connection = via LAN.Do you think that these 2 things belong together ?Where to start the surch for failure ? Disconnect minus on the 24 V board of each consumer one after the other ? Any preferences ?Thank you very much. Wolfgang Weber SY ELISE # 162 AMEL 54 |
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Re: Water system use in freezing weather - Advice
jwdernehl@...
I have a dehumidifier running. I still have to go to extremes to prevent interior condensation. Normally in the winter, my interior humidity runs 35-40%.
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Re: Dessalator Service Agent Norfolk VA
carlosalbardiaz@...
Ron Hello, this is my first post in this forum. I am not an expert in Dessalator watermakers (most of my work is with Sea Recovery) but I have some experience with the motors used in them. Be careful about who tinkers with the capacitors. Those Dessalator AC motors have two capacitors with different functions (one for starting and the other one for running) of different specs. This is uncommon in many parts of the world, hence it is easy for somone with just a bit of knowledge to make things worse by mixing them up. The key piece of differential diagnosis is check if the start capacitor is defective. Disconnect motor from pump, connect it to AC power and "help it" start by hand. If it starts then the problem is with the start capacitor. Good luck Charlie |
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water system use in freezing weather - Advice
Patrick McAneny
Ross, I also do not think you will have a problem with the water in the water tank or bilge freezing. They are both well below the surface thus warmer , plus with the warmth of the interior, should be no problem. I always leave a gallon of water in the sink during the winter and it has rarely had any ice in it and that's with no heat in the boat . The marinas here always have bubblers ( its actually a motor with a small prop ) going to keep open water around the boats and pilings. If they don't have them ,you could buy one for a couple of hundred , hang it from your boat , it brings up the warmer water from down below , it keeps a large area free from ice.
Stay Warm,
Pat SM#123
-----Original Message----- From: rossny@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Wed, Oct 21, 2015 6:49 pm Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water system use in freezing weather - Advice Hi all, I need some advise as to how I can use my fresh water and grey drain systems over the winter. The harbor will likely freeze for at least some time although they will try to keep the ice broken at the dock. Last winter in a different marina nearby, the boat was frozen solid for weeks but I was not living aboard. I winterized the heads, fresh water including the water tank and the engine and all worked out fine without damages. I am planning to live on the boat this winter and would like to only winterize the heads (i will use a composting toilet) and engine. I can run electric heaters and use heat cable around the pumps and water lines that run against the outside hull and keep them from freezing then I just have to worry about the bilge or water tank freezing up. There is a shower at the marina but I
would like to use my boat systems up until the bay freezes and I cannot pump the bilge out. Also cooking is almost impossible without running water. My question is could the water tank freeze and crack the keel/hull ? Thanks in advance for your opinions and for listening to my story....
Ross in NYC
Getting colder every day!
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water system use in freezing weather - Advice
Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
Ross, a few questions is the marina going to put a bubbler under you boat? Does the marina keep the water on all winter, most here in the Northeast turn it off. Having spent a number of winters aboard we generally used the marina showers in winter. Shrink wrapping is a good way to keep the boat warm and comfortable. It also keeps the deck cleaner. We have always used small ceramic fan driven heaters to heat the boat and the Amel heaters as a back up. In addition WE ALWAYS USED A DEHUMIDIFIER. We kept it in the aft head and let it drained it into the bilge. From time to time we’d move it up front to dry that end out too. Don’t forget to winterize the engine, gen set, AC and water maker in case of a power failure when you are not aboard. Enjoy the winter. Fair Winds and Smooth Sailing to ALL Capt. Richard Piller RP Yacht Brokerage Newport RI 603 767 5330 On Wednesday, October 21, 2015 9:04 PM, "chris@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote: Hi Jason, I live in Australia so don't really have that problem but wonder why, if you want to dry out the air inside, you don't also have a dehumidifier running? I'm only asking out of interest as in boats I have sailed on, we will run one once we get in to dry out the air from wet sails, gear etc and leave it on all the time. Cheers Chris Hemera SM031 Sent from my android device. -----Original Message----- From: "jwdernehl@... [amelyachtowners]" To: amelyachtowners@... Sent: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 11:36 am Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water system use in freezing weather - Advice I lived aboard the last two winters near Philadelphia and still live aboard. I never had any issues with freezing lines or tanks. I do keep a heater in my engine room set to around 40. I also make sure an anti-ice fan is near my overboard discharge for the grey water. As long as your boat is warm I would not worry about the fresh water tank freezing(I maintain a comfy 64). Trust me when I say this..your PROBLEM during the winter will be condensation, not freezing. DO NOT keep anything you love in the cabinets!. No books, no blankets, nothing that creates dead air space behind them. You will end up with moldy messes. I make sure nothing sits within 3 inches of the hull and has air passages on each side. Buy lots of Damp Rid now, and put one container in every cabinet next to the hull and in every bilge compartment. A cheap alternative to Damp Rid is ICE MELT(Calcium Chloride). Also, on days when it is cold and dry outside, crack open your windows to dry out the inside air. Did I mention that condensation is really bad? Have fun living aboard! Jason Pao San #88
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for a crew to move my Sharki from NYC to Norfolk
sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Rick, Not to outdo you , but Hank used to dive on my boat and clean the hull. He used to have a double ender named hunk of schmit There are more Hermosa Chicas in Colombia. Do drop by if you are here in the summer, My boat is at the end of the main dock at HYC. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2015 4:44 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Looking for a crew to move my Sharki from NYC to Norfolk
Eric I am also a founding member. Joined in 1993. 🙀 yikes! Been to HYC many times. Have a good voyage. Women are already weeping in St Marten! Ric Bali Hai SN 24
Kitchen Magic Refacers, Inc Office 410-923-5800 Fax 410-923-5802
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water system use in freezing weather - Advice
Chris Flack
Hi Jason, I live in Australia so don't really have that problem but wonder why, if you want to dry out the air inside, you don't also have a dehumidifier running? I'm only asking out of interest as in boats I have sailed on, we will run one once we get in to dry out the air from wet sails, gear etc and leave it on all the time. Cheers Chris Hemera SM031 Sent from my android device. -----Original Message----- From: "jwdernehl@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners@... Sent: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 11:36 am Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water system use in freezing weather - Advice I lived aboard the last two winters near Philadelphia and still live aboard. I never had any issues with freezing lines or tanks. I do keep a heater in my engine room set to around 40. I also make sure an anti-ice fan is near my overboard discharge for the grey water. As long as your boat is warm I would not worry about the fresh water tank freezing(I maintain a comfy 64). Trust me when I say this..your PROBLEM during the winter will be condensation, not freezing. DO NOT keep anything you love in the cabinets!. No books, no blankets, nothing that creates dead air space behind them. You will end up with moldy messes. I make sure nothing sits within 3 inches of the hull and has air passages on each side. Buy lots of Damp Rid now, and put one container in every cabinet next to the hull and in every bilge compartment. A cheap alternative to Damp Rid is ICE MELT(Calcium Chloride). Also, on days when it is cold and dry outside, crack open your windows to dry out the inside air. Did I mention that condensation is really bad? Have fun living aboard! Jason Pao San #88
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Re: Water system use in freezing weather - Advice
jwdernehl@...
I lived aboard the last two winters near Philadelphia and still live aboard. I never had any issues with freezing lines or tanks. I do keep a heater in my engine room set to around 40. I also make sure an anti-ice fan is near my overboard discharge for the grey water. As long as your boat is warm I would not worry about the fresh water tank freezing(I maintain a comfy 64).
Trust me when I say this..your PROBLEM during the winter will be condensation, not freezing. DO NOT keep anything you love in the cabinets!. No books, no blankets, nothing that creates dead air space behind them. You will end up with moldy messes. I make sure nothing sits within 3 inches of the hull and has air passages on each side. Buy lots of Damp Rid now, and put one container in every cabinet next to the hull and in every bilge compartment. A cheap alternative to Damp Rid is ICE MELT(Calcium Chloride). Also, on days when it is cold and dry outside, crack open your windows to dry out the inside air. Did I mention that condensation is really bad? Have fun living aboard! Jason Pao San #88 |
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Water system use in freezing weather - Advice
rossny@mail.com
Hi all, I need some advise as to how I can use my fresh water and grey drain systems over the winter. The harbor will likely freeze for at least some time although they will try to keep the ice broken at the dock. Last winter in a different marina nearby, the boat was frozen solid for weeks but I was not living aboard. I winterized the heads, fresh water including the water tank and the engine and all worked out fine without damages. I am planning to live on the boat this winter and would like to only winterize the heads (i will use a composting toilet) and engine. I can run electric heaters and use heat cable around the pumps and water lines that run against the outside hull and keep them from freezing then I just have to worry about the bilge or water tank freezing up. There is a shower at the marina but I would like to use my boat systems up until the bay freezes and I cannot pump the bilge out. Also cooking is almost impossible without running water. My question is could the water tank freeze and crack the keel/hull ? Thanks in advance for your opinions and for listening to my story.... Ross in NYC Getting colder every day! Older Maramu #261
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Passarelle Wheels.
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Hello Gary,
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Sorry to read you lost your wheels on the gangway/passerelle. I am not sure I can be of good help as mine is 2.7 meter long as opposed as the usual 2 meter one (either an Amel option or done by the previous owner). Also mine is no longer a boarding ladder, but simply a passerelle or gangway. The wheels are: 3” 3/4 diameter I posted some pictures on http://nikimat.com/passerelle_gangway.html Good luck to you. Sincerely, Alexandre SM2K #289 NIKIMAT Emerald Bay, Exumas, Bahamas. -------------------------------------------- On Wed, 10/21/15, gary@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Passarelle Wheels. To: amelyachtowners@... Date: Wednesday, October 21, 2015, 4:26 PM Ker-plunk :( Hoisted the passarelle/boarding ladder out of the water and racked onto the railing when I heard the splash and the wheels and axle are gone. Oops.Would some kind soul measure the diameter of the wheels that are on there so I can search out a local source? I'm thinking something in the 4" area should be fine. 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Passarelle Wheels.
Ker-plunk :( Hoisted the passarelle/boarding ladder out of the water and racked onto the railing when I heard the splash and the wheels and axle are gone. Oops. Would some kind soul measure the diameter of the wheels that are on there so I can search out a local source? I'm thinking something in the 4" area should be fine. Of all the things .... |
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