Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Totally agree with "non-turbo".

Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Taino Beach Marina, Grand Bahama
4900 hour on the TDM22P


--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 6/24/15, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, June 24, 2015, 3:10 PM


 









Hello Steve,
My TDM22 only has 650 hours… so
I’m keeping it for some time.
However, if I was thinking of a
engine replacement, I would think seriously about 80 or so
horses in non turbo charger configuration.
TC’s are a PITA.
Kind regards,
Jean-Pierre GermainSY Eleuthera, SM007.

On 24 Jun 2015, at 23:02, Kent
Robertson karkauai@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:















 




Hi Steve,Ask Amel if your drive is robust
enough for the 110.  I understand that it was beefed up at
some point prior to 1999, but don't know when that
was.If you do repower
with the 110, use the Yanmar mounts recommended by
Yanmar...or comparable.  In spite of the problems I've
had, I'm happy I made the change after several years of
dealing with my Volvo TMD22 78HP.I can't say that the power
difference is significant in terms of performance or fuel
efficiency, so if you find something you like in the 80 HP
range, I'd be happy with that as well.  Main thing is
having it installed and propped appropriately.KentSM243Kristy
On Jun 24, 2015, at 3:15 PM, flyboyscd@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
















 




We are considering a re-power on
our 1992 Perkins Prima 80hp equipped SM. I would prefer the
110hp Yanmar, but have seen on some post, the C drive on the
older drives may not be built for the extra horsepower. Any
truth to this, or are all SM C drives created equal?  Also,
any opinions on whether the extra horsepower is all that
beneficial with this boat. What special considerations do I
need when ordering the new Yanmar? For example, gearbox type
and ratio. 
Thanks in advance for you help,
as I'm trying to make a decision in the next couple of
days. 
Steve DavisAloha SM 72Hauled in St Augustine,
FL































Posted by: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>





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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Steve,

My TDM22 only has 650 hours… so I’m keeping it for some time.

However, if I was thinking of a engine replacement, I would think seriously about 80 or so horses in non turbo charger configuration.

TC’s are a PITA.

Kind regards,

Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM007.


On 24 Jun 2015, at 23:02, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Steve,
Ask Amel if your drive is robust enough for the 110.  I understand that it was beefed up at some point prior to 1999, but don't know when that was.
If you do repower with the 110, use the Yanmar mounts recommended by Yanmar...or comparable.  In spite of the problems I've had, I'm happy I made the change after several years of dealing with my Volvo TMD22 78HP.
I can't say that the power difference is significant in terms of performance or fuel efficiency, so if you find something you like in the 80 HP range, I'd be happy with that as well.  Main thing is having it installed and propped appropriately.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 24, 2015, at 3:15 PM, flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We are considering a re-power on our 1992 Perkins Prima 80hp equipped SM. I would prefer the 110hp Yanmar, but have seen on some post, the C drive on the older drives may not be built for the extra horsepower. Any truth to this, or are all SM C drives created equal?  Also, any opinions on whether the extra horsepower is all that beneficial with this boat. What special considerations do I need when ordering the new Yanmar? For example, gearbox type and ratio. 


Thanks in advance for you help, as I'm trying to make a decision in the next couple of days. 


Steve Davis

Aloha SM 72

Hauled in St Augustine, FL




Posted by: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (2)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

karkauai
 

Hi Steve,
Ask Amel if your drive is robust enough for the 110.  I understand that it was beefed up at some point prior to 1999, but don't know when that was.
If you do repower with the 110, use the Yanmar mounts recommended by Yanmar...or comparable.  In spite of the problems I've had, I'm happy I made the change after several years of dealing with my Volvo TMD22 78HP.
I can't say that the power difference is significant in terms of performance or fuel efficiency, so if you find something you like in the 80 HP range, I'd be happy with that as well.  Main thing is having it installed and propped appropriately.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 24, 2015, at 3:15 PM, flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We are considering a re-power on our 1992 Perkins Prima 80hp equipped SM. I would prefer the 110hp Yanmar, but have seen on some post, the C drive on the older drives may not be built for the extra horsepower. Any truth to this, or are all SM C drives created equal?  Also, any opinions on whether the extra horsepower is all that beneficial with this boat. What special considerations do I need when ordering the new Yanmar? For example, gearbox type and ratio. 


Thanks in advance for you help, as I'm trying to make a decision in the next couple of days. 


Steve Davis

Aloha SM 72

Hauled in St Augustine, FL


Repower

Stephen Davis
 

We are considering a re-power on our 1992 Perkins Prima 80hp equipped SM. I would prefer the 110hp Yanmar, but have seen on some post, the C drive on the older drives may not be built for the extra horsepower. Any truth to this, or are all SM C drives created equal?  Also, any opinions on whether the extra horsepower is all that beneficial with this boat. What special considerations do I need when ordering the new Yanmar? For example, gearbox type and ratio. 


Thanks in advance for you help, as I'm trying to make a decision in the next couple of days. 


Steve Davis

Aloha SM 72

Hauled in St Augustine, FL


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Maker Hose Specifications

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Thank you so much Ian.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Grand Bahama.


--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 6/23/15, Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Maker Hose Specifications
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Tuesday, June 23, 2015, 11:42 PM


 









FYI my 160 l/h Dessalator installation has 9/16th
stainless UNF

connectors designed to fit into a 1/4" id hose. The
hose connected via

pressed fitting. The hose is a rubber R2AT hydraulic hose
with a

specification of 400 Bar max working pressure.



I hope that this helps.



Regards



--

Ian Shepherd SM2K Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus













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Water Maker Hose Specifications

Ian Shepherd
 

FYI my 160 l/h Dessalator installation has 9/16th stainless UNF connectors designed to fit into a 1/4" id hose. The hose connected via pressed fitting. The hose is a rubber R2AT hydraulic hose with a specification of 400 Bar max working pressure.

I hope that this helps.

Regards

--
Ian Shepherd SM2K Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus


Re: C-Drive

Olivier Beaute
 

Hi Will,

the bolt holding the lower drive is going through the GRP housing of the drive, vertically into the ballast. The sleeve is located around the bolt. There should be a stainless steel sleeve too, inside the rubber sleeve.
The rubber sleeve is in fact a piece of very strong hose (used for fuel tanks connections). I will try to get the specs but it may have changed a bit throughout the years. Indeed, the best way to install a new one is to remove the old one and try to find a matching piece of hose.
It may be difficult for the diver to undo the bolt. The hex head is 32mm. It is covered (originally) with silicone compound that has to be removed first. Don't do anything if the lower drive is not moving sideways.

My cell phone is +33 674 028 243

Olivier.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator High Pressure Hoses

karkauai
 

Exactly, Ian.  High pressure hoses with crimped-on fittings from a shop that does hydraulic hoses.  Food-grade hose with stainless fittings and sheathed to prevent abrasion damage.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 23, 2015, at 7:27 AM, Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kristy,

when I say crimped, I mean that the barbed end of the fitting is slid into the rubber tube and then the outer casing is compresses with a circular hydraulic press. It's not a job you can do at home and requires specialised equipment. Is this what you had done?

Regarding those who have had hose rather than connector failures, I should point out that none of my hoses are now original, so maybe I am using a better standard of hose than that supplied by Dessalator? I am going to the hydraulic shop now to get the fitting size and will also ask for the hose spec and post here later.

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM2K Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus


On 20/06/2015 17:46, Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 

Kristy,

I use crimped connectors and they have never failed at the crimp. What has happened is that the threaded end fails after corrosion erodes a small hole in the tapered end fitting allowing water to escape between the barrel of the fitting and the screw cap. I have had better life out of stainless fittings. The plated type will for sure fail sooner.

Interestingly I have never had a hose fail like Alan. Only the connectors. I use standard 400 Bar hydraulic rubber hose.

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM2K Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus


On 19/06/2015 14:53, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
I really don't like those connectors.  It sounds like they've caused a lot of damage on many boats when they fail...mine included.  The crimped high pressure fittings are much less likely to fail and aren't expensive if you get them elsewhere ($35 plus shipping a few years ago at Charleston Rubber and Gasket).  I carry two spares and will probably never need them.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 19, 2015, at 8:41 AM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Yeah, I had this issue too, salt water spraying around the engine room...caught it quickly as I was in the galley and saw the pressure gauge drop rapidly...and turned the system off...

Good idea to to put some heavy tube covers over the connectors...its not the connectors that fail but where they connect to the tube...its the tube that fails...you can trim it off once or twice, but then you will eventually need more tube'
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437



Re: C-Drive

tango708@...
 

Olivier, Thank you very much for your very helpful comments.
1) the engine did not stop.. we able to motor into a marina in Charleston, SC where the damage was discovered.
2) the flex coupling, which is a Vetus, was shattered and will need replacing;
3) I am able to rotate the c-drive from the engine room and will ask the diver to carefully inspect the prop shaft where it exits the c-drive and determine if there is damage to the seal retainer etc.  There is no oil leaking out or sea water coming in at this point.

I suspect because of the movement in the unit that the rubber bushing seated in the cast iron ballast is compromised.  Do you happen to know the spec of the rubber bushing and where I might find one. I'll ask the diver to remove the nut and bushing for inspection and work on getting a new flex coupling installed. 

Is there a number that I can call you at for counsel?

Best Regards,
Will Stout
Anni Bea True,
SM180


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] C-Drive

tango708@...
 

Kent, Thank you very much for the reply.  I will give a call later this morning to go into more detail.

Best Regards,
Will Stout
Anni Bea True
SM180


Re: Dessalator High Pressure Hoses

Alan Leslie
 

So Bill, you think it is the hose that fails not the connectors ?
That's my feeling
I noticed that the hose was quite compressed where it came out of the connector, I cut about 1 cm off it and reassembled the connector and it seems OK, but eventually the hoses will need replacing -  I will run out of cm's to cut off
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator High Pressure Hoses

Alan Leslie
 

Thanks Ian,
Look forward to your next post with all the info...
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator High Pressure Hoses

Ian Shepherd
 

Kristy,

when I say crimped, I mean that the barbed end of the fitting is slid into the rubber tube and then the outer casing is compresses with a circular hydraulic press. It's not a job you can do at home and requires specialised equipment. Is this what you had done?

Regarding those who have had hose rather than connector failures, I should point out that none of my hoses are now original, so maybe I am using a better standard of hose than that supplied by Dessalator? I am going to the hydraulic shop now to get the fitting size and will also ask for the hose spec and post here later.

Regards
Ian Shepherd SM2K Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus


On 20/06/2015 17:46, Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Kristy,

I use crimped connectors and they have never failed at the crimp. What has happened is that the threaded end fails after corrosion erodes a small hole in the tapered end fitting allowing water to escape between the barrel of the fitting and the screw cap. I have had better life out of stainless fittings. The plated type will for sure fail sooner.

Interestingly I have never had a hose fail like Alan. Only the connectors. I use standard 400 Bar hydraulic rubber hose.

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM2K Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus


On 19/06/2015 14:53, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
I really don't like those connectors.  It sounds like they've caused a lot of damage on many boats when they fail...mine included.  The crimped high pressure fittings are much less likely to fail and aren't expensive if you get them elsewhere ($35 plus shipping a few years ago at Charleston Rubber and Gasket).  I carry two spares and will probably never need them.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 19, 2015, at 8:41 AM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Yeah, I had this issue too, salt water spraying around the engine room...caught it quickly as I was in the galley and saw the pressure gauge drop rapidly...and turned the system off...

Good idea to to put some heavy tube covers over the connectors...its not the connectors that fail but where they connect to the tube...its the tube that fails...you can trim it off once or twice, but then you will eventually need more tube'
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437



Re: C-Drive

Olivier Beaute
 

Good morning Will,

I understand you caught a rope in your prop, that caused the flex coupling to break.
Usually, when a rope gets caught in the prop, it breaks only the flex coupling (unless the shock was hard and stopped the engine...) Did your engine stop because of this rope?
When the throttle is in neutral position, does the shaft between the flex coupling and the upper C-drive gearbox rotate (by hand)?
When your diver inspected the lower part of the C-drive, could he rotate the prop shaft of half an inch OR could he move the whole drive, sideways, of half-an-inch?
The lower part of the C-drive is fastened to the cast iron ballast thanks to a 20mm bolt with stainless steel and hard rubber sleeves. Because of the shock, the rubber sleeve may have been damaged and may need replacement.

You should first have the VETUS flex coupling replaced (or maybe only its 4 rubber "donuts" if the aluminum housing and its bolts are not damaged). For this you need to remove the four bolts that secure the engine on its steel cradle, then "slide" the engine backwards.
Once the coupling replaced, if the prop shaft is not rotating free, there may be more damages (Inside the C-drive).
But let's start with the beginning, as we say in France.

Good luck.

Olivier


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] C-Drive

karkauai
 

Bad luck, Will.

 My first guess (maybe more of a hope) would be that the play in the prop shaft is due to the destruction of the lip seals.

I sent my entire CDrive to France when I had electrolytic damage to the prop shaft.  It took nearly a year to get the boat back in the water.

I would first haul her out and have a look at the shaft and seals.  If that isn't the only problem, you have to move your engine forward (maybe not if the flexible coupling is destroyed), lift the upper part of the drive out from the engine room, then remove the bolt that secures the lower part of the drive (I think it's called the "foot") to the keel, and lift the foot directly aft.  On the forward side of the foot there is a sealed circular area that has to be cut away (it's made of a composite material) to access the gears.

Amel tried to repair my old foot, but couldn't get the tolerances to satisfactory specs.  I purchased an entire new CDrive and flexible coupling.  The re installation was pretty straightforward except for drilling the bolt hole in the new foot.  I can send you some pics about how to do that if it comes to that.

Feel free to contact me at karkauai AT yahoo DOT com or call 8282346819.  You might also want to contact Craig Briggs on Sangaris as he has recently done a similar repair on his boat after the propshaft was bent by poorly positioned lifting strap.

Good luck and let us know what you find.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 22, 2015, at 5:16 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Amel Owners,
I had an incident with my c-drive where mono-filiment became wrapped around the prop and caused excessive vibration in the drive train and shattered the flex coupling.  The C-drive appears to be spinning free, but the diver says it has about a half inch of side to side movement.  I would like to talk with someone who has replaced a c-drive to determine what I need to do to tighten the unit back up.

Regards,
Will Stout
Anni Bea True
SM180
presently in Charleston, SC



C-Drive

tango708@...
 

Amel Owners,
I had an incident with my c-drive where mono-filiment became wrapped around the prop and caused excessive vibration in the drive train and shattered the flex coupling.  The C-drive appears to be spinning free, but the diver says it has about a half inch of side to side movement.  I would like to talk with someone who has replaced a c-drive to determine what I need to do to tighten the unit back up.

Regards,
Will Stout
Anni Bea True
SM180
presently in Charleston, SC



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mizzen Boom Pully Block

karkauai
 

I'm talking to Antal about a custom block, will let you know what they say.  Photos would be helpful, thanks.  Take one that shows the line going from the block on the mizzen to the on the boom.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 21, 2015, at 8:37 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

I understand now. I will try to remember to take a photo of the blocks on my mizzen boom.

The halyard that I use to hoist the motor is also used to lift the passarell off dock.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2015 11:08 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mizzen Boom Pully Block

 

 

That is what I'm talking about, Eric.  I guess my description wasn't very clear.  I'll try again.

I would put the foot blocks on the mizzen boom where the other ones are.  My line for raising the dinghy motor doesn't go up from there to a block at the spreaders.  It goes directly from the block on the end of the boom to the port mizzen winch, where I can winch it up by hand, or run it over the port mizzen winch and down to the mainsheet winch and raise the outboard with that electric winch.  Since the line doesn't live permanently thru a block at the spreaders, I can run the bitter end thru the block at the end of the boom, then back to the mizzen winch.

 

You could use the same method with the block at the spreaders if you tie a bowline knot in the working end rather than splicing to a shackle.  I still don't think that would work well because the top of the block would be in the way of a line leading from the spreaders.

 

Is that clearer?

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Jun 20, 2015, at 11:29 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Sorry,

I thought you were speaking about the block on the end of the boom used to lift the outboard.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2015 9:33 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mizzen Boom Pully Block

 

 

I don't have a block at the mizzen spreader, just feed the line to the mizzen winch, or over it and down to the mainsheet winch.  I would feed the other end of my line through from the aft end of the block.  I have a bridle on one end that fits over the outboard, but nothing on the other end.  Wouldn't work if you have a block at the spreaders.

If possible, it would be nice to be able to use the axle of the sheave as a third connection point, eliminating the inside bolt head as a source of galvanic corrosion.  Otherwise a thin sheet of nylon or delrin (?SP) between the block and the boom would suffice.

I'm going to contact Antal and ask them if they think this block would work for this application.  Does anyone have a pic of the Amel mizzen block that I could send them?

Kent
SM243
Kristy


Broken Rotary autopilot

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

I am looking for a broken Raymarine autopilot- in fact I am looking for the front cover and output shaft.

If you have one or know of one I would appreciate the intel.

 

Bill- I did try Dan- thanks – but he did not have one.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2015 3:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raymarine repair and Raymarine refurbished instruments

 

 

thanks Bill,

had some questions concerning ST60+ wind and Dan gave me good informations

Dieter
Fal-lera Sharki #135


Re: Raymarine repair and Raymarine refurbished instruments

INUS - BUSCH
 

thanks Bill,

had some questions concerning ST60+ wind and Dan gave me good informations

Dieter
Fal-lera Sharki #135


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mizzen Boom Pully Block

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Kent,

I understand now. I will try to remember to take a photo of the blocks on my mizzen boom.

The halyard that I use to hoist the motor is also used to lift the passarell off dock.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2015 11:08 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mizzen Boom Pully Block

 

 

That is what I'm talking about, Eric.  I guess my description wasn't very clear.  I'll try again.

I would put the foot blocks on the mizzen boom where the other ones are.  My line for raising the dinghy motor doesn't go up from there to a block at the spreaders.  It goes directly from the block on the end of the boom to the port mizzen winch, where I can winch it up by hand, or run it over the port mizzen winch and down to the mainsheet winch and raise the outboard with that electric winch.  Since the line doesn't live permanently thru a block at the spreaders, I can run the bitter end thru the block at the end of the boom, then back to the mizzen winch.

 

You could use the same method with the block at the spreaders if you tie a bowline knot in the working end rather than splicing to a shackle.  I still don't think that would work well because the top of the block would be in the way of a line leading from the spreaders.

 

Is that clearer?

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Jun 20, 2015, at 11:29 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Sorry,

I thought you were speaking about the block on the end of the boom used to lift the outboard.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2015 9:33 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mizzen Boom Pully Block

 

 

I don't have a block at the mizzen spreader, just feed the line to the mizzen winch, or over it and down to the mainsheet winch.  I would feed the other end of my line through from the aft end of the block.  I have a bridle on one end that fits over the outboard, but nothing on the other end.  Wouldn't work if you have a block at the spreaders.

If possible, it would be nice to be able to use the axle of the sheave as a third connection point, eliminating the inside bolt head as a source of galvanic corrosion.  Otherwise a thin sheet of nylon or delrin (?SP) between the block and the boom would suffice.

I'm going to contact Antal and ask them if they think this block would work for this application.  Does anyone have a pic of the Amel mizzen block that I could send them?

Kent
SM243
Kristy