Date   

Re: A54 floor boards

Laurens Vos
 
Edited

Hi Joel,

Thanks for the beautiful and interesting story ūüĎć

Laurens & Rineke


Re: Retractable bow thruster maintenance on a Sharki

david bruce
 

Hi Paul,  

 i absolutely second Jim’s advice below, we did this 6 weeks ago on Liesse, our Santorin to install the aftermarket silicone seals which seem to be working very well btw.  It took me 3 full days to get it to break loose, even though once down it did not look that corroded.  I do not think I would have been able to drop the shaft without the press made and sold by Amel.  Even so it had a tendency to want to slip down the shaft making you think you were making progress, this occurring perhaps because I was quite cautious about not wanting to damage the carbon fibre shaft by over tightening and found lining the contact service with sand paper glued to the tool,improved it’s grip. Took nearly a full can of penetrating oil, endless tapping, many attempts with the press and tremendous persistence plus no shortage of expletives, but it’s quite gratifying when it lets loose.  Be sure and have it well supported so it doesn’t fall to the ground, a line through the foot seemed to work pretty well.  Good luck. 

 Best, Dave 
 SV Liesse SN 006



On 6 Oct 2021, at 10:13 PM, James Alton via groups.io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Paul,

   Congratulations on your new Sharki!  The bow thruster on my Maramu was also stuck in a similar fashion when we bought our boat.  I would urge patience in dealing with this problem rather than using a lot of force.  I used a rawhide  (non metal,) hammer to tap the interface while spraying lots of PB Blaster.  Letting the penetrant soak and coming back to it to try again the next day.  It took about 5 days but finally there was some movement and finally removal with no damage.  Once all surfaces were cleaned up and greased future removals require someone below the bow thruster to catch it when the last bolt is removed.  I remove the bow thruster, change the oil and seals at each haulout, it is so easy to do now.  These just need regular servicing.  Best of luck to you.

James
SV Sueno
Vonista, Greece


-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Peschel <paul.peschel@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Wed, Oct 6, 2021 4:53 pm
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Retractable bow thruster maintenance on a Sharki

Hola from Spain,

This summer my wife and took over an Amel Sharki, so happy to be part of the wonderful group now :-). Unfortunately the bow thruster has no propeller so we got a new one from Maud of Amel as well as a service kit. The assembly requires separating the lower part with the gearbox and the upper part with the motor. Somehow there is a lot of corrosion and the parts have grown together. Is there a trick to separate them again? Does anyone have similar experiences? Does anybody has disassembled the motor and might have some tipps?

Best regards, 
Paul




Re: 1981 Maramu pre-survey

Dennis Johns
 

I can see a couple of things from the pictures:

1) Bow thruster is not Amel, so you need to find out the maintenance schedule for that.
2) The in-mast furling is probably not Amel, so you will need to find out the source for that equipment and the maintenance schedule (in mast furling motors and gears seem to appear on the owners site often).
3)  The back stay has been modified -I would be concerned about the mounting points (chainplates?)
4)  Looks like a single purchase on the main sheet to the boom.  As the 2004 refit included in-mast furling, I assume the boom is new.  My boom broke in half on our shake down cruise due to metal fatigue at that mid-boom single purchase.  I'd add one or more blocks to the boom.
5)  Could not see the windlass.  If it's original, it's 40+ years old and will probably need service or replacement soon.
6)  Older/outdated electronics may need upgrades and did not see much in the cockpit dash (radar, radio remote, autopilot).
7)  I didn't see a liferaft?

Comments on your comments:
1)  Failed headliner happened with every Maramu.  It's just a question of how you fix it.  The best ways are usually the most expensive and time consuming.
2)  Looks like the gooseneck is ok but the mizzen boom bracket needs new rivets -not a big deal
3)  Pealing varnish around window is more likely from sun exposure than a leak -not uncommon.
4)  Bolts on headliner are a result of running rigging being run back to the cockpit -they were originally only run to the base of the mast (I have the same on my boat)   Should not be an issue as they are in a corner and not in a traffic area.
5)  I just repowered.  My 4-154 had 11,000 hours on it and was still running just fine.  Got a deal on a new Volvo-Penta engine and just went for it.  7,000 hrs is only middle age but have a mechanic do a proper evaluation and then change the oil every 100 hrs.

The interior looked mostly original to me and in good shape.

Possible issues:
Bilge pump(s):  Looks like you have the original two.  Make sure the high water bilge pump audible alarm works..
Fresh water tank:  If it has been standing with water in it, it will need to be power-washed and chlorinated -need to remove the dining table and access panels for this.
Someone already mentioned the through hulls but that should be covered by the surveyor.
Holding tank:  Is the macerator mounted low to the tank or high?  If high, it will fail because it does not like to draw to prime.
Fuel tank.  My stainless steel tank was just replaced because of leaks after 40 years.  They don't last forever.  It can be removed/replaced through the companionway -don't let anyone tell you it can't.
Engine spare parts:  The ones I found most critical (stopped us from going anywhere) were starter motor and raw water pump.  Malfunctioning ones can be rebuilt but it's a lot easier to just swap them out and wait for a convenient time to have them fixed/replaced.

Dennis

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 1:25 AM Ben Levy <benjamin.levy@...> wrote:
Thank you for all your reply.
Bill Rouse's pre-purchase consulting package seems like an amazing idea. Unfortunately it seems like he is no longer offering this service for Amel's older than 1988 (please correct me if I'm wrong).
Here is a link to a photo album with photos of the maramu. A mixed bag of photos we took during our first visit and the photos provided by the broker.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vRXr1HNfMZGYdULH6

And here is the listing from the broker (in French though):
https://www.annoncesbateau.com/bateau/1981-amel-maramu-5016467/

What I could see is the following:
the lining inside is coming unglue in places (aesthetic)
the gooseneck of the mizzen is coming loose (critical)
the varnish near ONE window is pilling off (aesthetic)
I was wondering about the bolts for the winch and the stoppers showing up on top of the lining 
The engine has nearly 7000h and is original 

Couldn't find much else to complain about but I didn't take everything apart either.. planning on doing that during the next visit (which is now scheduled for Saturday).

I also know that in 2000 it went trough an extensive anti-osmosis treatment from a professional company (traitement curatif par pelage du gelcoat ... pealing of the gelcoat?)
In 2010, the mast was removed to fix an issue of electrolysis at the bottom of the mast (between the mast and the deck of the boat)
The in-mast furling was added in 2004
Fridge replaced in 2003
One blackwater tank added in 2010

That's about all I know at this stage.
Cheers,
Ben


Re: Retractable bow thruster maintenance on a Sharki

James Alton
 

Paul,

   Congratulations on your new Sharki!  The bow thruster on my Maramu was also stuck in a similar fashion when we bought our boat.  I would urge patience in dealing with this problem rather than using a lot of force.  I used a rawhide  (non metal,) hammer to tap the interface while spraying lots of PB Blaster.  Letting the penetrant soak and coming back to it to try again the next day.  It took about 5 days but finally there was some movement and finally removal with no damage.  Once all surfaces were cleaned up and greased future removals require someone below the bow thruster to catch it when the last bolt is removed.  I remove the bow thruster, change the oil and seals at each haulout, it is so easy to do now.  These just need regular servicing.  Best of luck to you.

James
SV Sueno
Vonista, Greece


-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Peschel <paul.peschel@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Wed, Oct 6, 2021 4:53 pm
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Retractable bow thruster maintenance on a Sharki

Hola from Spain,

This summer my wife and took over an Amel Sharki, so happy to be part of the wonderful group now :-). Unfortunately the bow thruster has no propeller so we got a new one from Maud of Amel as well as a service kit. The assembly requires separating the lower part with the gearbox and the upper part with the motor. Somehow there is a lot of corrosion and the parts have grown together. Is there a trick to separate them again? Does anyone have similar experiences? Does anybody has disassembled the motor and might have some tipps?

Best regards, 
Paul



Re: 1981 Maramu pre-survey

James Alton
 

Hello,

  I am the owner of Maramu #220 and have the original Perkins engine.  If your engine spares are for the Series 200 model of the 4-154 I am interested  if they if they are not already spoken for.  

   We love our 1987 Maramu.  We have looked at some of the earlier Maramu's and have been impressed by the build quality.

James and Joann
SV Sueno
Currently in Vonista Greece





-------- Original message --------
From: Lance Leonard <Elscubano@...>
Date: 10/6/21 7:51 PM (GMT+02:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] 1981 Maramu pre-survey

We own hull#135. On the hard in Maine right now undergoing a repower. I would check for water intrusion under the aft berth and around the salon port lights. We don’t have in mast furling so not much I can say there. The original Amel main power switch was problematic on our boat. Mostly due I think because of some  under size and hinkey wiring. The Perkins has been reliable until recently (exhaust in the freshwater cooling). Definitely pay for an oil analysis, this would have saved us a 30k repower. Also the 4.154 has no glow plugs, it uses a heater in the intake manifold, make sure it’s working properly if you plan to sail in higher latitudes.The aft head was a direct overboard installation so we added an electro scan (which I don’t recommend in brackish water). I don’t know the age of your rigging, but check for candy striping. Pull the access cover on the water tank and check for goo (access in back of galley table). As we are repowering I have new in the box spares if you decide to keep the Perkins. PM me for details.


Re: 1981 Maramu pre-survey

 

Ben,

Yes, I have recently limited the Amel range that I will perform a Pre-Purchase Review to 1988 and later Amels. In the last 12 months, I have been hired by over 50 clients to help them through the process of identifying the "good and bad" things with the Amel that they are looking at. I also quantify the cost to make the Amel good again with my "Summary of Corrections Estimate Spreadsheet." Here are 2 examples of these spreadsheets:(Refit of $42k Spreadsheet) (Refit of $88k Spreadsheet). Maybe these samples can help you with your purchase. You should also visit my website for Before You Buy Pre-Purchase for plenty of good information for Buyers and Sellers. Additionally, I offer 1-hour of Free Consulting. You can certainly take advantage of that.

I hope that you understand that I needed to limit the number of Pre-Purchase Reviews. I had two choices: Raise the price, or limit the range. I refuse to raise the price because this is a needed service.

Bill


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 3:25 AM Ben Levy <benjamin.levy@...> wrote:
Thank you for all your reply.
Bill Rouse's pre-purchase consulting package seems like an amazing idea. Unfortunately it seems like he is no longer offering this service for Amel's older than 1988 (please correct me if I'm wrong).
Here is a link to a photo album with photos of the maramu. A mixed bag of photos we took during our first visit and the photos provided by the broker.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vRXr1HNfMZGYdULH6

And here is the listing from the broker (in French though):
https://www.annoncesbateau.com/bateau/1981-amel-maramu-5016467/

What I could see is the following:
the lining inside is coming unglue in places (aesthetic)
the gooseneck of the mizzen is coming loose (critical)
the varnish near ONE window is pilling off (aesthetic)
I was wondering about the bolts for the winch and the stoppers showing up on top of the lining 
The engine has nearly 7000h and is original 

Couldn't find much else to complain about but I didn't take everything apart either.. planning on doing that during the next visit (which is now scheduled for Saturday).

I also know that in 2000 it went trough an extensive anti-osmosis treatment from a professional company (traitement curatif par pelage du gelcoat ... pealing of the gelcoat?)
In 2010, the mast was removed to fix an issue of electrolysis at the bottom of the mast (between the mast and the deck of the boat)
The in-mast furling was added in 2004
Fridge replaced in 2003
One blackwater tank added in 2010

That's about all I know at this stage.
Cheers,
Ben


Re: 1981 Maramu pre-survey

Lance Leonard
 

We own hull#135. On the hard in Maine right now undergoing a repower. I would check for water intrusion under the aft berth and around the salon port lights. We don’t have in mast furling so not much I can say there. The original Amel main power switch was problematic on our boat. Mostly due I think because of some  under size and hinkey wiring. The Perkins has been reliable until recently (exhaust in the freshwater cooling). Definitely pay for an oil analysis, this would have saved us a 30k repower. Also the 4.154 has no glow plugs, it uses a heater in the intake manifold, make sure it’s working properly if you plan to sail in higher latitudes.The aft head was a direct overboard installation so we added an electro scan (which I don’t recommend in brackish water). I don’t know the age of your rigging, but check for candy striping. Pull the access cover on the water tank and check for goo (access in back of galley table). As we are repowering I have new in the box spares if you decide to keep the Perkins. PM me for details.


Re: Retractable bow thruster maintenance on a Sharki

 

Paul,

Here is a snippet from a page in my book. Almost all of this has been previously posted in our Group.
image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 9:13 AM Paul Peschel <paul.peschel@...> wrote:

Hola from Spain,

This summer my wife and took over an Amel Sharki, so happy to be part of the wonderful group now :-). Unfortunately the bow thruster has no propeller so we got a new one from Maud of Amel as well as a service kit. The assembly requires separating the lower part with the gearbox and the upper part with the motor. Somehow there is a lot of corrosion and the parts have grown together. Is there a trick to separate them again? Does anyone have similar experiences? Does anybody has disassembled the motor and might have some tipps?

Best regards, 

Paul



Re: 2001 Super Maramu Headliner

 

The same vinyl was used on 54s


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 8:40 AM Paul Stascavage via groups.io <pstas2003=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Rick,

I am not sure if you were looking to repair a small area or if you were looking to replace the whole headliner.  If you were looking to replace the whole thing, Maud may still be able to obtain the material that was used on the late model SM.  Ours is hull 466 and we were able to purchase some from Maud about 2 years ago.  It is a white vinyl material with padded backing.



All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Currently Exploring Norfolk, VA

www.RitaKathryn.com


Re: Speed sensor rubber cap

 

And sometimes when the rubber cap comes off, you get more than the rubber cap.
image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 3:45 AM Stefan Jeukendrup <sjeukendrup@...> wrote:

Hi Mohammed,


Yes, I had the same problem you have 2 times: replaced the sensor on the hull with the boat in the water 3 years ago and the sensor on the keel this year during haulout.

 The heart of these sensors is a thin piezo ceramic plate with 2 electrodes which is glued on one side to the rubber cap and the other side is epoxied together with the cable in the housing. See the enclosed sketch.

A possible reason that re-glueing the cap ( or filling the hole with silicone) does not work is that the actual sensor, a piezo crystal with very high impedance, should not be in contact with seawater which conducts electricity


This sensor fails too often and this might why:

The rubber cap is a little smaller than the hole so it can move a little and seawater can get to the side of the sensor.  Over time this dislodges the glue between rubber cap and crystal

I followed the advice of another member of this forum: when mounting a new sensor fill the space around the rubber cap with neoprene to make sure the water stays out and the rubber cap cannot move anymore.


Hope this is helpfull,


Stefan Jeukendrup

sv Malaka Queen

SM2k #348 @ Newry, Northern Ireland


Op 06-10-2021 om 08:32 schreef Mohammad Shirloo:

Hi  Stephan;

 

We were on a tight schedule to get to our winter berth. I did re-install the cap under water to protect the sensor. We were getting erratic speed readings afterwards. We will be hauling out next year and will address it then. Did you have an issue with your speed sensor?

 

Thanks

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Stefan Jeukendrup via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2021 10:12 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Speed sensor rubber cap

 

Hi Mohammed,

 

The function of the cap is to protect the underlying high impedance crystal on which it is glued. That keeps the water and dirt out. 

 

If your Sonicspeed still works first check AGC and resistance, see the manual in the "files" section.

 

If still ok I would not try to put the cap back. Instead you could try to fill the hole where the cap was with underwater silicone. The "art" is to make good continuous accoustic contact with the exposed crystal.

 

Hope this helps you,

 

Stefan Jeukendrup

sv Malaka Queen 

SM2k #348 @ Northern Ireland

 

 

Op 26 sep. 2021 07:41 schreef Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>:

Does anyone know the function of the rubber cap? Is this for prevention of damage or growth on the main sensor, or does it have some other functional role?

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2021 12:33 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Speed sensor rubber cap

 

I had exactly the same issue. My sonic speed stopped working. I dove and found that I had one big barnacle on the rubber cap  When I pulled on the barnacle the cap came off.

 

Amel told me to reattach it with silicone sealant on the edges. 

 

I didn't haulout to do that and waited for about 6 months for a scheduled haul out. I replaced the cap, but Sonic Speed never worked. 

 

Good luck!

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

 

On Sat, Sep 25, 2021, 3:48 PM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Our speed sensor was a bit erratic after a 3 week stay in Venice. I dove in it today to clean the rubber caps with my diving gloves. The rubber cap came off of the forward sensor and I was able to catch it before it went to the bottom. 


I need to put the cap on while in water, until we haul out next year. It appears to be just a pressure fit as I could not see any sealant. The sealant may have just worn off in the past 12 years. Any advice on how to fit it back in under water, would be appreciated.

i have added pictures of the part to be reinstalled.

thank you.

 


Re: 1981 Maramu pre-survey

Ben Levy
 

Speaking of which, anyone is able to give me an estimation of the costs to replace:
The standing rigging 
The running rigging
The sails
The masts

I understand that ot will vary from one part of the world to another one, but just to have an idea. 

Cheers 


Re: 1981 Maramu pre-survey

Arlo
 

It looks like it has been well loved. However check the followong...
* Wiring, does it look like a rats nest or original neatly wired?
* Look in the anchor locker under the forward deck where the chain is kept. Is it wet and delaminating ?
* check for wood rot under the mizzen mast right above the packing box and inside walls under the mizzen mast about deck height. Look inside the two lockers. Its a llace prone for water incursion 
* check the bonding system. Is it in good condition? If not look for electrolysis on running gear including the stern tube
* check overall wiring connections, are any in the engine room green or corroded? * that varnish peeling near the window may be a leaky window. Go around all windows and hatches with a hose and test them.
* Check ALL through hulls. Dont assume if the handle turns that it is acrually operating the through hulls


Just a start of "other things" to look for.....


1981 Sharki photos

marksharki
 

Here are some pictures of the 1981 Sharki that we will soon be selling. I am posting them as an example of a fully sorted boat to compare to a boat needing a full refit. Pictures at : amelsharki49.com

Mark Hanna
1981 Amel Sharki (#49)
s/v Marguerite 


Retractable bow thruster maintenance on a Sharki

Paul Peschel
 

Hola from Spain,

This summer my wife and took over an Amel Sharki, so happy to be part of the wonderful group now :-). Unfortunately the bow thruster has no propeller so we got a new one from Maud of Amel as well as a service kit. The assembly requires separating the lower part with the gearbox and the upper part with the motor. Somehow there is a lot of corrosion and the parts have grown together. Is there a trick to separate them again? Does anyone have similar experiences? Does anybody has disassembled the motor and might have some tipps?

Best regards, 

Paul



Re: 2001 Super Maramu Headliner

Paul Stascavage
 

Rick,

I am not sure if you were looking to repair a small area or if you were looking to replace the whole headliner.  If you were looking to replace the whole thing, Maud may still be able to obtain the material that was used on the late model SM.  Ours is hull 466 and we were able to purchase some from Maud about 2 years ago.  It is a white vinyl material with padded backing.



All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Currently Exploring Norfolk, VA

www.RitaKathryn.com


Re: 1981 Maramu pre-survey

Alex BAIZEAU
 

Hey Ben,

We visited that boat this summer, it seemed indeed to be in good shape for its age but in our opinion the fact that the standing rigging, the engine, the sails, the electronics, and some of the running rigging, although serviceable were all due (age or hours wise) for an upgrade wasn’t priced in we decided to pass.

We ended up buying a younger Maramu with a replaced engine, more recent sails, and the Nirvana mast in mast furlers for less. 

The current boat inventory might be different so take it with a grain of salt 


We hired Bill Rouse and he would tell you to not overpay for that boat and to get it surveyed by Olivier Beaute as you are in France.


Good Luck 

Alex 


On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 9:34 AM marklesparkle59 <marklesparkle59@...> wrote:
That lools so much like a large version of Sea Hobo my 1983 Sharki. One area of weakness is the aft bulkhead behind the stirage bins at the bottom of the mizzen. The bins can easily block up and stay wet or even fill and any weakness in construction or poor repair leads to the 9mm plywood bulkhead eventually rotting. I know because I replaced mine 2 years ago and now clean the drainage holes every visit.
Good luck.

Mark Porter
Sea Hobo
Sharki #96

On Wed, 6 Oct 2021, 09:25 Ben Levy, <benjamin.levy@...> wrote:
Thank you for all your reply.
Bill Rouse's pre-purchase consulting package seems like an amazing idea. Unfortunately it seems like he is no longer offering this service for Amel's older than 1988 (please correct me if I'm wrong).
Here is a link to a photo album with photos of the maramu. A mixed bag of photos we took during our first visit and the photos provided by the broker.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vRXr1HNfMZGYdULH6

And here is the listing from the broker (in French though):
https://www.annoncesbateau.com/bateau/1981-amel-maramu-5016467/

What I could see is the following:
the lining inside is coming unglue in places (aesthetic)
the gooseneck of the mizzen is coming loose (critical)
the varnish near ONE window is pilling off (aesthetic)
I was wondering about the bolts for the winch and the stoppers showing up on top of the lining 
The engine has nearly 7000h and is original 

Couldn't find much else to complain about but I didn't take everything apart either.. planning on doing that during the next visit (which is now scheduled for Saturday).

I also know that in 2000 it went trough an extensive anti-osmosis treatment from a professional company (traitement curatif par pelage du gelcoat ... pealing of the gelcoat?)
In 2010, the mast was removed to fix an issue of electrolysis at the bottom of the mast (between the mast and the deck of the boat)
The in-mast furling was added in 2004
Fridge replaced in 2003
One blackwater tank added in 2010

That's about all I know at this stage.
Cheers,
Ben


Re: 1981 Maramu pre-survey

JB Duler
 

Ben,

I can certainly help. Last I bought a 1977 Meltem, very similar build and same equipment.
I went through everything and I will help you.
What is your time zone?
--
John Bernard "JB" Duler
San Francisco
Meltem # 19, Western Med


Re: What to do with LiFePO4 batteries when the boat is layed up?

Joerg Esdorn
 

Thanks very much, Scott.  You certainly are putting a lot of effort into your posts!  I am sceptical as well of the MV support guys’ claim that his batteries are différent but MV’s advice to keep the batteries at 100% is out there right in their manual.  Why would they recommend something that is proven to be detrimental to the batteries?  

Thanks also for sending the article.  Having been an engineer in my first life and having done university level research work myself, I’m highly sceptical of the results of the simplified test for a number of reasons.  First, there is no indication that the researcher has any qualifications whatsoever - on his linked in page he’s described as a sales manager.  So I’m not sure of his motivations for writing the article.  Second, there is just ONE test run with ONE set of discharge and charge parameters.  These small differences he’s measured are they repeatable or could they be the result of variations between the cells, for example.  Also, a serious researcher would always run various parameters to see whether there are relationships between the outcome and your parameters.    For example, I charge my batteries at less than 25% of capacity because that’s all my chargers can do and at the the very end of the charging process my chargers would go into float, so the charge goes down to a few amps.  His test was at a charge rate of 50% of capacity - until full? If so, wow!  He’s also discharging the cells to 2.0V - my batteries would never go down so low because of the BMS.  Even more importantly, the cells he’s tested - are they what I and you have?  He used 1.5Ah capacity cells - that’s pretty small.  What is the testing setup he’s used?  Testing such minuscule voltage differences must require some expensive equipment, right?  

So I have a lot of questions and see this ¬ętest ¬Ľ more as the typical pseudo science that unfortunately pervades social media. ¬†I‚Äôm curious to see whether there is any serious research out there. ¬†Thanks again for your and everyone else‚Äôs thoughts!¬†

Joerg Esdorn
A55 #53 Kincsem
Currently cruising Brittany    

  


Re: Speed sensor rubber cap

Stefan Jeukendrup
 

Hi Mohammed,


Yes, I had the same problem you have 2 times: replaced the sensor on the hull with the boat in the water 3 years ago and the sensor on the keel this year during haulout.

 The heart of these sensors is a thin piezo ceramic plate with 2 electrodes which is glued on one side to the rubber cap and the other side is epoxied together with the cable in the housing. See the enclosed sketch.

A possible reason that re-glueing the cap ( or filling the hole with silicone) does not work is that the actual sensor, a piezo crystal with very high impedance, should not be in contact with seawater which conducts electricity


This sensor fails too often and this might why:

The rubber cap is a little smaller than the hole so it can move a little and seawater can get to the side of the sensor.  Over time this dislodges the glue between rubber cap and crystal

I followed the advice of another member of this forum: when mounting a new sensor fill the space around the rubber cap with neoprene to make sure the water stays out and the rubber cap cannot move anymore.


Hope this is helpfull,


Stefan Jeukendrup

sv Malaka Queen

SM2k #348 @ Newry, Northern Ireland


Op 06-10-2021 om 08:32 schreef Mohammad Shirloo:

Hi  Stephan;

 

We were on a tight schedule to get to our winter berth. I did re-install the cap under water to protect the sensor. We were getting erratic speed readings afterwards. We will be hauling out next year and will address it then. Did you have an issue with your speed sensor?

 

Thanks

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Stefan Jeukendrup via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2021 10:12 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Speed sensor rubber cap

 

Hi Mohammed,

 

The function of the cap is to protect the underlying high impedance crystal on which it is glued. That keeps the water and dirt out. 

 

If your Sonicspeed still works first check AGC and resistance, see the manual in the "files" section.

 

If still ok I would not try to put the cap back. Instead you could try to fill the hole where the cap was with underwater silicone. The "art" is to make good continuous accoustic contact with the exposed crystal.

 

Hope this helps you,

 

Stefan Jeukendrup

sv Malaka Queen 

SM2k #348 @ Northern Ireland

 

 

Op 26 sep. 2021 07:41 schreef Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>:

Does anyone know the function of the rubber cap? Is this for prevention of damage or growth on the main sensor, or does it have some other functional role?

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2021 12:33 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Speed sensor rubber cap

 

I had exactly the same issue. My sonic speed stopped working. I dove and found that I had one big barnacle on the rubber cap  When I pulled on the barnacle the cap came off.

 

Amel told me to reattach it with silicone sealant on the edges. 

 

I didn't haulout to do that and waited for about 6 months for a scheduled haul out. I replaced the cap, but Sonic Speed never worked. 

 

Good luck!

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

 

On Sat, Sep 25, 2021, 3:48 PM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Our speed sensor was a bit erratic after a 3 week stay in Venice. I dove in it today to clean the rubber caps with my diving gloves. The rubber cap came off of the forward sensor and I was able to catch it before it went to the bottom. 


I need to put the cap on while in water, until we haul out next year. It appears to be just a pressure fit as I could not see any sealant. The sealant may have just worn off in the past 12 years. Any advice on how to fit it back in under water, would be appreciated.

i have added pictures of the part to be reinstalled.

thank you.

 


Re: 1981 Maramu pre-survey

marklesparkle59
 

That lools so much like a large version of Sea Hobo my 1983 Sharki. One area of weakness is the aft bulkhead behind the stirage bins at the bottom of the mizzen. The bins can easily block up and stay wet or even fill and any weakness in construction or poor repair leads to the 9mm plywood bulkhead eventually rotting. I know because I replaced mine 2 years ago and now clean the drainage holes every visit.
Good luck.

Mark Porter
Sea Hobo
Sharki #96


On Wed, 6 Oct 2021, 09:25 Ben Levy, <benjamin.levy@...> wrote:
Thank you for all your reply.
Bill Rouse's pre-purchase consulting package seems like an amazing idea. Unfortunately it seems like he is no longer offering this service for Amel's older than 1988 (please correct me if I'm wrong).
Here is a link to a photo album with photos of the maramu. A mixed bag of photos we took during our first visit and the photos provided by the broker.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vRXr1HNfMZGYdULH6

And here is the listing from the broker (in French though):
https://www.annoncesbateau.com/bateau/1981-amel-maramu-5016467/

What I could see is the following:
the lining inside is coming unglue in places (aesthetic)
the gooseneck of the mizzen is coming loose (critical)
the varnish near ONE window is pilling off (aesthetic)
I was wondering about the bolts for the winch and the stoppers showing up on top of the lining 
The engine has nearly 7000h and is original 

Couldn't find much else to complain about but I didn't take everything apart either.. planning on doing that during the next visit (which is now scheduled for Saturday).

I also know that in 2000 it went trough an extensive anti-osmosis treatment from a professional company (traitement curatif par pelage du gelcoat ... pealing of the gelcoat?)
In 2010, the mast was removed to fix an issue of electrolysis at the bottom of the mast (between the mast and the deck of the boat)
The in-mast furling was added in 2004
Fridge replaced in 2003
One blackwater tank added in 2010

That's about all I know at this stage.
Cheers,
Ben

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