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Re: Water maker

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

Bill,

I forgot to ask - what size pipe (0.5", 0.75", 1"?) is that Amel-installed rinsing lever and what threads?  BST? NPS? Metric?

Derick

SM2k #400 Brava
Currently on the hard in Antigua
Re: Water maker

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

Bill,

I also have the 160 L/hr dessalator on Brava.  Would you mind posting a "before" and "after" plumbing diagram for the freshwater rinse system you installed? Also maybe a picture or two?  I have been getting over 1000 ppm lately, and so will be installing new membranes this Fall.  I'd like to re-plumb the fresh water rinse to a timer/carbon filter system while I am at it.

I assume that on your system, with the Amel-installed rinsing lever off, your 24V timer still opens the 24V valve for 6 minutes every other day, but no rinsing takes place because the Amel-installed rinsing lever is off. (No harm/no foul). However, when you leave the boat for some time, if you want to continue this rinsing cycle in your absence, you do need to leave both the Amel-installed rinsing lever and the freshwater pump circuit breaker on to provide the fresh water pressure, correct?  

I am wondering if the 24V timer could also turn the freshwater pump on (if the circuit breaker is off) so that the fresh water system does not have to be left on continuously (e.g. if left on the hard for several months for hurricane season).

What do you think?  

Derick
Re: Globe "run dry" impellers

sailor63109@...
 

What model March pump did you get?  I'd be interested in hearing how it works.

Duane
Wanderer #477
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fluxgate SM

peacock@...
 

Grazie mille!!!
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fluxgate SM

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Tom,

On SM2K #289 NIKIMAT it is at the U seat in the salon.
More precisely near the air conditioning vent (Port side - near the forward wall)
There is a triangle piece of wood, with a little cut (as handle) that you can lift, and the fluxgate is located there.
Hope that helps.
Sincerely, Alexandre


--------------------------------------------

On Thu, 7/9/15, peacock@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fluxgate SM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Thursday, July 9, 2015, 10:26 AM


 









I am installing a new Raymarine auto helm
system. I need to replace the fluxgate with the new EV-1
sensor. Does anyone know the location of the
fluxgate?
Thanks!Tom
PeacockAletes
SM2K 243









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Fluxgate SM

peacock@...
 

I am installing a new Raymarine auto helm system. I need to replace the fluxgate with the new EV-1 sensor. Does anyone know the location of the fluxgate?


Thanks!

Tom Peacock

Aletes SM2K 243
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] A/C Saltwater Pump

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

HI BILL,

I thought SM2K’s had Klimma AC units?  

I accepted Riza’s suggestion that Webasto was a better choice for out refit…

I can state that our Webasto is doing great in 95F temps with 100% humidity.  Working on deck is part calvary now!!!

Almost done… should be sailing within 2 days….  But we’ll return to Goček to pick up a pair of freeloaders (friends) on 18th then off to GR islands and IT…

:-)


On 9 Jul 2015, at 11:56, yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

If you are looking for a replacement or a spare, here is something perfect, I think. I bought one as a spare.


March pump AC-5C-MD 230v 1020 gph Replacement pump for Cruisair PMA1000C


I probably should install it because it has a magnet drive impeller which separates and, in-effect, isolates the pump from the motor. This solves the issue with the Amel-installed Calpeda BCM20E pump which is that the Amel bonding system is connected to the case of the pump and the 230V earth is also connected to the case of the pump. This causes a connection between the Amel bonding system and earth. ABYC would want that connection, but I think Henri Amel may have missed this as I believe it is the only earth to bonding system connection on the SM.


Bill

BeBe
A/C Saltwater Pump

yahoogroups@...
 

If you are looking for a replacement or a spare, here is something perfect, I think. I bought one as a spare.


March pump AC-5C-MD 230v 1020 gph Replacement pump for Cruisair PMA1000C


I probably should install it because it has a magnet drive impeller which separates and, in-effect, isolates the pump from the motor. This solves the issue with the Amel-installed Calpeda BCM20E pump which is that the Amel bonding system is connected to the case of the pump and the 230V earth is also connected to the case of the pump. This causes a connection between the Amel bonding system and earth. ABYC would want that connection, but I think Henri Amel may have missed this as I believe it is the only earth to bonding system connection on the SM.


Bill

BeBe
Re: Globe "run dry" impellers

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Bill,

You may recall I experimented with these on the ONAN and they didn't last any longer than the stock impellers. I even changed the 2-piece ONAN pump housing for one piece Sherwood pump - no difference. 
I've bought a 220VAC March centrifugal pump which I'm going to plumb in for the ONAN and end impeller issues forever.
I've not had impeller issues on the Yanmar...and I never had on my previous boat either
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Globe "run dry" impellers

yahoogroups@...
 

A little over a year ago, many of us were discussing Globe "run dry impellers." I swallowed the hook and I bought 2 each for the Yanmar and Onan. I installed the first Globe in the Yanmar on April 20, 2014. On June 20, 2015, I replaced the impeller because it was over a year old. I purposefully let it go an extra 60 days in "age" because it was supposed to be "better," right? BTW, it only had 400 hours on it. Prior to using Globe, I used the Yanmar impellers and changed them at 500 hours or 365 days, which ever came first. I never lost a blade following this routine, but once did have 2 cracked blades.


An inspection of the Globe impeller reflected 6 blades were cracked completely across the blade at the base of the blade and all were present with no blade or piece of blade missing.


CONCLUSION:

Globe impellers may run dry, but they do not last as long as conventional impellers when running wet. They are not as good as conventional impellers unless, maybe, you run the engine dry. Before I bought these, I thought that the premise of the reasoning behind Globe was not really valid, and that "running dry" was a gimmick. I was prejudiced. It is in my prejudiced opinion, that Globe Run Dry impellers are another case of smoke and mirrors and not something that will "save your day."


Bill

BeBe 387
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water maker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

BTW, we replaced membranes 2 years ago and made water a few days ago with a TDS of 108. I think that there is a correlation between flushing out all salt water and flushing frequently and high quality water.

Bill
BeBe

On Thu, Jul 9, 2015 at 9:18 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Great Idea Bill.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2015 2:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water maker

 

 

Just as a passing remark on this thread, I found it incredibly easy to use a 24VDC lawn sprinkler valve, a 24VDC digital timer, and a carbon filter/housing to install and automatic flush in-line on our 160L water maker. I have it set for 6 minutes, 2 days a week. I can disable it by closing the flush valve that was installed by Amel at the time 387 was produced. Open the valve and it automatically flushes twice a week. I have had no problem with forgetting to flush!

 

Bill

BeBe 387

 

On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 9:48 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Keith, can't help you with the pressure issues but the rotten egg smell happens when salt water is left in pipes. I get the same in my salt water deck wash and in the heads if they are left too long. It just flushes out. The smell seems to "gas off" and I agree you can't taste it. I find it is only the first few litres through the water maker though, then it clears so I run it to waste for a start. When we bought Ocean Pearl the water-maker was a scary mystery with pickling, chemical cleaning and no idea what to do. This forum lead us to just back flush with fresh water after use and do nothing else. Had happy trouble free years since.. Can leave it months and start it up, run the first few litres to waste and there you have it sweet clean water. Currently on about 150 ppm with the solids detector.  It would be at least three years since we put any shore water in the tank.

Cheers

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

From: "gegcarter@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, 8 July 2015 5:01 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water maker

 

 

I also have a problem wi th my water-maker, which is the 50l/hr Dessalator unit.  It's probably down to neglect. 

 

When we bought GUMA the water-maker worked (although when Olivier, who did the survey, offered me the sample to drink I did think it smelled a bit of eggs....).  Then followed two years where we were frequently in marinas where good quality water was available and so the water-maker was not required .... or used.  Such was my ignorance. 

 

'Use it or lose i t', I have been told - too late, inevitably.

 

So at the end of last year I tried making some water for the first time, really, since buying the boat:

  • The sampling tube on the control panel did not produce any water.  I had my sample anyway as I had disconnected the outlet feed from the water-maker to the tank, to protect both the tank and its existing content from contamination, having been told not to trust the 'good / bad' sensor on the control panel and remembering the eggy smell. 
  • The water emerging from the feed tube was super-eggy!  It tasted OK, but the smell was bad. 

I was advised that there was probably microbial contamination on the membranes and that I should pickle them for a while.  So I acquired some steriliser and, following the instructions in the multi-lingual brochure from Dessalator, infused the device with it.  That was just before spending 4 months in Licata marina for the winter 2014/15. 

 

As soon as we were in clean seas this season I tried the water-maker again. Rinsing with fresh water, then switching the va lve back to seawater and following the instructions:

  • The water maker seemed to be acting normally, and I increased the pressure. 
  • Nothing from the sampling pipe (as expected from before)
  • Nothing from the feed pipe to the tanks - which I had again removed to collect whatever was made. 
  • Then the device switched itself off - maybe due to excess pressure (I was in the engine room observing proceedings from there - mechanically everything looked fine). 

On subsequent attempts to run the water-maker the device seems not to generate any pressure.  Running on 'open', water is pumped through the system and out through the hull.  On increasing the pressure valve by turning clockwise there is very l ittle response on the gauge, little action in the manometer tube, and, at high pressure settings, no discernable water being ejected through the hull skin fitting. Needless to say, no water from the reservoir feed-tube either. 

 

It seems to me that the pump cannot be generating pressure - or a protective sensor is stopping it (but not switching off the pump).  

 

Any thoughts on what has happened, why, and what I should do about it? 

 

Keith

SY GUMA

Currently in Thasos, N Greece.

 

 
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water maker

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Great Idea Bill.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2015 2:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water maker

 

 

Just as a passing remark on this thread, I found it incredibly easy to use a 24VDC lawn sprinkler valve, a 24VDC digital timer, and a carbon filter/housing to install and automatic flush in-line on our 160L water maker. I have it set for 6 minutes, 2 days a week. I can disable it by closing the flush valve that was installed by Amel at the time 387 was produced. Open the valve and it automatically flushes twice a week. I have had no problem with forgetting to flush!

 

Bill

BeBe 387

 

On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 9:48 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Keith, can't help you with the pressure issues but the rotten egg smell happens when salt water is left in pipes. I get the same in my salt water deck wash and in the heads if they are left too long. It just flushes out. The smell seems to "gas off" and I agree you can't taste it. I find it is only the first few litres through the water maker though, then it clears so I run it to waste for a start. When we bought Ocean Pearl the water-maker was a scary mystery with pickling, chemical cleaning and no idea what to do. This forum lead us to just back flush with fresh water after use and do nothing else. Had happy trouble free years since.. Can leave it months and start it up, run the first few litres to waste and there you have it sweet clean water. Currently on about 150 ppm with the solids detector.  It would be at least three years since we put any shore water in the tank.

Cheers

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

From: "gegcarter@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, 8 July 2015 5:01 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water maker

 

 

I also have a problem with my water-maker, which is the 50l/hr Dessalator unit.  It's probably down to neglect. 

 

When we bought GUMA the water-maker worked (although when Olivier, who did the survey, offered me the sample to drink I did think it smelled a bit of eggs....).  Then followed two years where we were frequently in marinas where good quality water was available and so the water-maker was not required .... or used.  Such was my ignorance. 

 

'Use it or lose it', I have been told - too late, inevitably.

 

So at the end of last year I tried making some water for the first time, really, since buying the boat:

  • The sampling tube on the control panel did not produce any water.  I had my sample anyway as I had disconnected the outlet feed from the water-maker to the tank, to protect both the tank and its existing content from contamination, having been told not to trust the 'good / bad' sensor on the control panel and remembering the eggy smell. 
  • The water emerging from the feed tube was super-eggy!  It tasted OK, but the smell was bad. 

I was advised that there was probably microbial contamination on the membranes and that I should pickle them for a while.  So I acquired some steriliser and, following the instructions in the multi-lingual brochure from Dessalator, infused the device with it.  That was just before spending 4 months in Licata marina for the winter 2014/15. 

 

As soon as we were in clean seas this season I tried the water-maker again. Rinsing with fresh water, then switching the valve back to seawater and following the instructions:

  • The water maker seemed to be acting normally, and I increased the pressure. 
  • Nothing from the sampling pipe (as expected from before)
  • Nothing from the feed pipe to the tanks - which I had again removed to collect whatever was made. 
  • Then the device switched itself off - maybe due to excess pressure (I was in the engine room observing proceedings from there - mechanically everything looked fine). 

On subsequent attempts to run the water-maker the device seems not to generate any pressure.  Running on 'open', water is pumped through the system and out through the hull.  On increasing the pressure valve by turning clockwise there is very l ittle response on the gauge, little action in the manometer tube, and, at high pressure settings, no discernable water being ejected through the hull skin fitting. Needless to say, no water from the reservoir feed-tube either. 

 

It seems to me that the pump cannot be generating pressure - or a protective sensor is stopping it (but not switching off the pump).  

 

Any thoughts on what has happened, why, and what I should do about it? 

 

Keith

SY GUMA

Currently in Thasos, N Greece.

 

 
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water maker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Just as a passing remark on this thread, I found it incredibly easy to use a 24VDC lawn sprinkler valve, a 24VDC digital timer, and a carbon filter/housing to install and automatic flush in-line on our 160L water maker. I have it set for 6 minutes, 2 days a week. I can disable it by closing the flush valve that was installed by Amel at the time 387 was produced. Open the valve and it automatically flushes twice a week. I have had no problem with forgetting to flush!

Bill
BeBe 387

On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 9:48 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Keith, can't help you with the pressure issues but the rotten egg smell happens when salt water is left in pipes. I get the same in my salt water deck wash and in the heads if they are left too long. It just flushes out. The smell seems to "gas off" and I agree you can't taste it. I find it is only the first few litres through the water maker though, then it clears so I run it to waste for a start. When we bought Ocean Pearl the water-maker was a scary mystery with pickling, chemical cleaning and no idea what to do. This forum lead us to just back flush with fresh water after use and do nothing else. Had happy trouble free years since.. Can leave it months and start it up, run the first few litres to waste and there you have it sweet clean water. Currently on about 150 ppm with the solids detector.  It would be at least three years since we put any shore water in the tank.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
From: "gegcarter@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, 8 July 2015 5:01 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water maker

 
I also have a problem with my water-maker, which is the 50l/hr Dessalator unit.  It's probably down to neglect. 

When we bought GUMA the water-maker worked (although when Olivier, who did the survey, offered me the sample to drink I did think it smelled a bit of eggs....).  Then followed two years where we were frequently in marinas where good quality water was available and so the water-maker was not required .... or used.  Such was my ignorance. 

'Use it or lose it', I have been told - too late, inevitably.

So at the end of last year I tried making some water for the first time, really, since buying the boat:
  • The sampling tube on the control panel did not produce any water.  I had my sample anyway as I had disconnected the outlet feed from the water-maker to the tank, to protect both the tank and its existing content from contamination, having been told not to trust the 'good / bad' sensor on the control panel and remembering the eggy smell. 
  • The water emerging from the feed tube was super-eggy!  It tasted OK, but the smell was bad. 
I was advised that there was probably microbial contamination on the membranes and that I should pickle them for a while.  So I acquired some steriliser and, following the instructions in the multi-lingual brochure from Dessalator, infused the device with it.  That was just before spending 4 months in Licata marina for the winter 2014/15. 

As soon as we were in clean seas this season I tried the water-maker again. Rinsing with fresh water, then switching the valve back to seawater and following the instructions:
  • The water maker seemed to be acting normally, and I increased the pressure. 
  • Nothing from the sampling pipe (as expected from before)
  • Nothing from the feed pipe to the tanks - which I had again removed to collect whatever was made. 
  • Then the device switched itself off - maybe due to excess pressure (I was in the engine room observing proceedings from there - mechanically everything looked fine). 
On subsequent attempts to run the water-maker the device seems not to generate any pressure.  Running on 'open', water is pumped through the system and out through the hull.  On increasing the pressure valve by turning clockwise there is very l ittle response on the gauge, little action in the manometer tube, and, at high pressure settings, no discernable water being ejected through the hull skin fitting. Needless to say, no water from the reservoir feed-tube either. 

It seems to me that the pump cannot be generating pressure - or a protective sensor is stopping it (but not switching off the pump).  

Any thoughts on what has happened, why, and what I should do about it? 

Keith
SY GUMA
Currently in Thasos, N Greece.
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning

karkauai
 

Bon jour, JP, merci.  CC is interesting, but I'm not ready to take that leap yet as I plan to do the vast majority of my sailing in tropical climes.  I'll look at it all again when this paint is ready for a redo.  Keep us posted on how yours does if you spend a year or more in the tropics.
Kent




On Jul 8, 2015, at 2:43 PM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent, 

Boat is in Turkey, Goček, finishing a long refit. Water temp was moderate until 2 1/2 weeks ago. Now at 29-31C. 

Previous boat was based in Majorca ... Some tropics and some moderate temps. 

I don't mind diving 3-4 times a year 😀 


On 8 Jul 2015, at 20:08, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Where were you Jean Pierre?  Cool water or Tropics?
Kent


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:45 AM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

I have Coppercoat and the boat has been in the water since April.  She had to come out for repair last week and she had a Clean bottom.  No green fuzz, no barnacles.

Got precisely 8 knots at 2950 rpm on Volvo sails swinging a MAX prop.

Works for me.  Had CC on my last boat also.

JPG


On 8 Jul 2015, at 17:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Bill.  I don't mind doing it in warm water, but not cold.  I'm looking at making my own Hookah system for cleaning the bottom, unfouling the prop, changing zincs, maybe enuf hose to unfoul an anchor.  For now I'm going to put Pettits Ultimate SR60 on and see how it lasts.  Waiting to hear how others in the tropics fare w CopperCoat.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:04 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Remember, if you like cleaning/scrubbing/diving on your bottom 2-4 times a year, then CopperCoat is good for you. Me...I am too lazy for that!

Bill
BeBe

On Mon, Jul 6, 2015 at 5:33 PM, karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi, Bill,
I've been doing some research about all this, and talking to the paint gurus here at Deltaville Boat Yard.

It seems that CopperCoat works extremely well in colder water like the NE USA and Mediterranean, but not so much in the tropics, where I'll be doing most of my sailing.

Micron66 is great paint for the tropics, but apparently doesn't do well in brackish water.  Here on the Chesapeake they put Micron 66 on a boat at the owner's request, and had to repaint in just a few months.  Interlux paid the bill for the prep and new paint job.  Since I'll be in brackish water for the next several months, I'm going to go with their recommended Pettit Ultima SR60.  When they have the old paint removed and the hull is dry enough, they'll put a coat of primer and two coats of paint.  I'll let you know how it does.

It turns out that SeaHawk Island 44, the tin-based paint is available almost everywhe re but the US.  It's actually sold in the US but can only be applied to boats of 75ftLOA.  Most large ships and USNavy ships are painted with similar paints to avoid hauling out so often.  So us little boats are the least likely to be polluting with bottom paint, but are the only ones who can't buy it here. What a crock!  Gotta love the EPA.  If this Pettit paint doesn't last more than a couple years, I'll probably go elsewhere and have Island 44 put on again.

Steady as she goes.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water maker

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Keith, can't help you with the pressure issues but the rotten egg smell happens when salt water is left in pipes. I get the same in my salt water deck wash and in the heads if they are left too long. It just flushes out. The smell seems to "gas off" and I agree you can't taste it. I find it is only the first few litres through the water maker though, then it clears so I run it to waste for a start. When we bought Ocean Pearl the water-maker was a scary mystery with pickling, chemical cleaning and no idea what to do. This forum lead us to just back flush with fresh water after use and do nothing else. Had happy trouble free years since.. Can leave it months and start it up, run the first few litres to waste and there you have it sweet clean water. Currently on about 150 ppm with the solids detector.  It would be at least three years since we put any shore water in the tank.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
From: "gegcarter@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, 8 July 2015 5:01 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water maker

 
I also have a problem with my water-maker, which is the 50l/hr Dessalator unit.  It's probably down to neglect. 

When we bought GUMA the water-maker worked (although when Olivier, who did the survey, offered me the sample to drink I did think it smelled a bit of eggs....).  Then followed two years where we were frequently in marinas where good quality water was available and so the water-maker was not required .... or used.  Such was my ignorance. 

'Use it or lose it', I have been told - too late, inevitably.

So at the end of last year I tried making some water for the first time, really, since buying the boat:
  • The sampling tube on the control panel did not produce any water.  I had my sample anyway as I had disconnected the outlet feed from the water-maker to the tank, to protect both the tank and its existing content from contamination, having been told not to trust the 'good / bad' sensor on the control panel and remembering the eggy smell. 
  • The water emerging from the feed tube was super-eggy!  It tasted OK, but the smell was bad. 
I was advised that there was probably microbial contamination on the membranes and that I should pickle them for a while.  So I acquired some steriliser and, following the instructions in the multi-lingual brochure from Dessalator, infused the device with it.  That was just before spending 4 months in Licata marina for the winter 2014/15. 

As soon as we were in clean seas this season I tried the water-maker again. Rinsing with fresh water, then switching the valve back to seawater and following the instructions:
  • The water maker seemed to be acting normally, and I increased the pressure. 
  • Nothing from the sampling pipe (as expected from before)
  • Nothing from the feed pipe to the tanks - which I had again removed to collect whatever was made. 
  • Then the device switched itself off - maybe due to excess pressure (I was in the engine room observing proceedings from there - mechanically everything looked fine). 
On subsequent attempts to run the water-maker the device seems not to generate any pressure.  Running on 'open', water is pumped through the system and out through the hull.  On increasing the pressure valve by turning clockwise there is very little response on the gauge, little action in the manometer tube, and, at high pressure settings, no discernable water being ejected through the hull skin fitting. Needless to say, no water from the reservoir feed-tube either. 

It seems to me that the pump cannot be generating pressure - or a protective sensor is stopping it (but not switching off the pump).  

Any thoughts on what has happened, why, and what I should do about it? 

Keith
SY GUMA
Currently in Thasos, N Greece.
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning

Jean-Pierre Germain <jgermain@...>
 

Hi Kent, 

Boat is in Turkey, Goček, finishing a long refit. Water temp was moderate until 2 1/2 weeks ago. Now at 29-31C. 

Previous boat was based in Majorca ... Some tropics and some moderate temps. 

I don't mind diving 3-4 times a year 😀 


On 8 Jul 2015, at 20:08, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Where were you Jean Pierre?  Cool water or Tropics?
Kent


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:45 AM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

I have Coppercoat and the boat has been in the water since April.  She had to come out for repair last week and she had a Clean bottom.  No green fuzz, no barnacles.

Got precisely 8 knots at 2950 rpm on Volvo sails swinging a MAX prop.

Works for me.  Had CC on my last boat also.

JPG


On 8 Jul 2015, at 17:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Bill.  I don't mind doing it in warm water, but not cold.  I'm looking at making my own Hookah system for cleaning the bottom, unfouling the prop, changing zincs, maybe enuf hose to unfoul an anchor.  For now I'm going to put Pettits Ultimate SR60 on and see how it lasts.  Waiting to hear how others in the tropics fare w CopperCoat.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:04 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Remember, if you like cleaning/scrubbing/diving on your bottom 2-4 times a year, then CopperCoat is good for you. Me...I am too lazy for that!

Bill
BeBe

On Mon, Jul 6, 2015 at 5:33 PM, karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi, Bill,
I've been doing some research about all this, and talking to the paint gurus here at Deltaville Boat Yard.

It seems that CopperCoat works extremely well in colder water like the NE USA and Mediterranean, but not so much in the tropics, where I'll be doing most of my sailing.

Micron66 is great paint for the tropics, but apparently doesn't do well in brackish water.  Here on the Chesapeake they put Micron 66 on a boat at the owner's request, and had to repaint in just a few months.  Interlux paid the bill for the prep and new paint job.  Since I'll be in brackish water for the next several months, I'm going to go with their recommended Pettit Ultima SR60.  When they have the old paint removed and the hull is dry enough, they'll put a coat of primer and two coats of paint.  I'll let you know how it does.

It turns out that SeaHawk Island 44, the tin-based paint is available almost everywhe re but the US.  It's actually sold in the US but can only be applied to boats of 75ftLOA.  Most large ships and USNavy ships are painted with similar paints to avoid hauling out so often.  So us little boats are the least likely to be polluting with bottom paint, but are the only ones who can't buy it here. What a crock!  Gotta love the EPA.  If this Pettit paint doesn't last more than a couple years, I'll probably go elsewhere and have Island 44 put on again.

Steady as she goes.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning

karkauai
 

Where were you Jean Pierre?  Cool water or Tropics?
Kent


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:45 AM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

I have Coppercoat and the boat has been in the water since April.  She had to come out for repair last week and she had a Clean bottom.  No green fuzz, no barnacles.

Got precisely 8 knots at 2950 rpm on Volvo sails swinging a MAX prop.

Works for me.  Had CC on my last boat also.

JPG


On 8 Jul 2015, at 17:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Bill.  I don't mind doing it in warm water, but not cold.  I'm looking at making my own Hookah system for cleaning the bottom, unfouling the prop, changing zincs, maybe enuf hose to unfoul an anchor.  For now I'm going to put Pettits Ultimate SR60 on and see how it lasts.  Waiting to hear how others in the tropics fare w CopperCoat.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:04 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Remember, if you like cleaning/scrubbing/diving on your bottom 2-4 times a year, then CopperCoat is good for you. Me...I am too lazy for that!

Bill
BeBe

On Mon, Jul 6, 2015 at 5:33 PM, karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi, Bill,
I've been doing some research about all this, and talking to the paint gurus here at Deltaville Boat Yard.

It seems that CopperCoat works extremely well in colder water like the NE USA and Mediterranean, but not so much in the tropics, where I'll be doing most of my sailing.

Micron66 is great paint for the tropics, but apparently doesn't do well in brackish water.  Here on the Chesapeake they put Micron 66 on a boat at the owner's request, and had to repaint in just a few months.  Interlux paid the bill for the prep and new paint job.  Since I'll be in brackish water for the next several months, I'm going to go with their recommended Pettit Ultima SR60.  When they have the old paint removed and the hull is dry enough, they'll put a coat of primer and two coats of paint.  I'll let you know how it does.

It turns out that SeaHawk Island 44, the tin-based paint is available almost everywhe re but the US.  It's actually sold in the US but can only be applied to boats of 75ftLOA.  Most large ships and USNavy ships are painted with similar paints to avoid hauling out so often.  So us little boats are the least likely to be polluting with bottom paint, but are the only ones who can't buy it here. What a crock!  Gotta love the EPA.  If this Pettit paint doesn't last more than a couple years, I'll probably go elsewhere and have Island 44 put on again.

Steady as she goes.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning

karkauai
 

Got it that time Bill.  I remember seeing it when you first posted it.  Pretty impressive difference.  Thinking I'll probly go with Island44 next time and buy enuf to paint again in 4 years unless someone convinced me b4 then that CopperCoat works in the Tropics.  So far not convinced, but I know Island 44 will last 3-4 years.

Sure is a lot of conflicting information out there.
Kent


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:36 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 4:27 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hmm.  That link wouldn't open on my iPhone.  I'll try it again on my laptop.  If next time I decide to paint with something not available here, I'll probably be somewhere outside the U.S. and EPA tentacles.  Thanks for the offer, though, I'll keep it in mind.
Kent


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:20 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,


I said that I wouldn't do it mostly because I am lazy. It is too bad that Micron77 is not sold in the USA...the EPA has blocked its application along with every application during the last 6 years...what goes with that? Anyway, Micron77 is good in fresh, salt and brackish. Maybe I can smuggle some to you. ;)

Bill

On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 4:13 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <a melyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill.  I don't mind doing it in warm water, but not cold.  I'm looking at making my own Hookah system for cleaning the bottom, unfouling the prop, changing zincs, maybe enuf hose to unfoul an anchor.  For now I'm going to put Pettits Ultimate SR60 on and see how it lasts.  Waiting to hear how others in the tropics fare w CopperCoat.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:04 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Remember, if you like cleaning/scrubbing/diving on your bottom 2-4 times a year, then CopperCoat is good for you. Me...I am too lazy for that!

Bill
BeBe

On Mon, Jul 6, 2015 at 5:33 PM, karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi, Bill,
I've been doing some research about all this, and talking to the paint gurus here at Deltaville Boat Yard.

It seems that CopperCoat works extremely well in colder water like the NE USA and Mediterranean, but not so much in the tropics, where I'll be doing most of my sailing.

Micron66 is great paint for the tropics, but apparently doesn't do well in brackish water.  Here on the Chesapeake they put Micron 66 on a boat at the owner's request, and had to repaint in just a few months.  Interlux paid the bill for the prep and new paint job.  Since I'll be in brackish water for the next several months, I'm going to go with their recommended Pettit Ultima SR60.  When they have the old paint removed and the hull is dry enough, they'll put a coat of primer and two coats of paint.  I'll let you know how it does.

It turns out that SeaHawk Island 44, the tin-based paint is available almost everywhe re but the US.  It's actually sold in the US but can only be applied to boats of 75ftLOA.  Most large ships and USNavy ships are painted with similar paints to avoid hauling out so often.  So us little boats are the least likely to be polluting with bottom paint, but are the only ones who can't buy it here. What a crock!  Gotta love the EPA.  If this Pettit paint doesn't last more than a couple years, I'll probably go elsewhere and have Island 44 put on again.

Steady as she goes.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hi Kent,

I have Coppercoat and the boat has been in the water since April.  She had to come out for repair last week and she had a Clean bottom.  No green fuzz, no barnacles.

Got precisely 8 knots at 2950 rpm on Volvo sails swinging a MAX prop.

Works for me.  Had CC on my last boat also.

JPG


On 8 Jul 2015, at 17:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Bill.  I don't mind doing it in warm water, but not cold.  I'm looking at making my own Hookah system for cleaning the bottom, unfouling the prop, changing zincs, maybe enuf hose to unfoul an anchor.  For now I'm going to put Pettits Ultimate SR60 on and see how it lasts.  Waiting to hear how others in the tropics fare w CopperCoat.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:04 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Remember, if you like cleaning/scrubbing/diving on your bottom 2-4 times a year, then CopperCoat is good for you. Me...I am too lazy for that!

Bill
BeBe

On Mon, Jul 6, 2015 at 5:33 PM, karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi, Bill,
I've been doing some research about all this, and talking to the paint gurus here at Deltaville Boat Yard.

It seems that CopperCoat works extremely well in colder water like the NE USA and Mediterranean, but not so much in the tropics, where I'll be doing most of my sailing.

Micron66 is great paint for the tropics, but apparently doesn't do well in brackish water.  Here on the Chesapeake they put Micron 66 on a boat at the owner's request, and had to repaint in just a few months.  Interlux paid the bill for the prep and new paint job.  Since I'll be in brackish water for the next several months, I'm going to go with their recommended Pettit Ultima SR60.  When they have the old paint removed and the hull is dry enough, they'll put a coat of primer and two coats of paint.  I'll let you know how it does.

It turns out that SeaHawk Island 44, the tin-based paint is available almost everywhe re but the US.  It's actually sold in the US but can only be applied to boats of 75ftLOA.  Most large ships and USNavy ships are painted with similar paints to avoid hauling out so often.  So us little boats are the least likely to be polluting with bottom paint, but are the only ones who can't buy it here. What a crock!  Gotta love the EPA.  If this Pettit paint doesn't last more than a couple years, I'll probably go elsewhere and have Island 44 put on again.

Steady as she goes.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 


On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 4:27 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hmm.  That link wouldn't open on my iPhone.  I'll try it again on my laptop.  If next time I decide to paint with something not available here, I'll probably be somewhere outside the U.S. and EPA tentacles.  Thanks for the offer, though, I'll keep it in mind.
Kent


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:20 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,


I said that I wouldn't do it mostly because I am lazy. It is too bad that Micron77 is not sold in the USA...the EPA has blocked its application along with every application during the last 6 years...what goes with that? Anyway, Micron77 is good in fresh, salt and brackish. Maybe I can smuggle some to you. ;)

Bill

On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 4:13 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <a melyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill.  I don't mind doing it in warm water, but not cold.  I'm looking at making my own Hookah system for cleaning the bottom, unfouling the prop, changing zincs, maybe enuf hose to unfoul an anchor.  For now I'm going to put Pettits Ultimate SR60 on and see how it lasts.  Waiting to hear how others in the tropics fare w CopperCoat.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:04 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Remember, if you like cleaning/scrubbing/diving on your bottom 2-4 times a year, then CopperCoat is good for you. Me...I am too lazy for that!

Bill
BeBe

On Mon, Jul 6, 2015 at 5:33 PM, karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi, Bill,
I've been doing some research about all this, and talking to the paint gurus here at Deltaville Boat Yard.

It seems that CopperCoat works extremely well in colder water like the NE USA and Mediterranean, but not so much in the tropics, where I'll be doing most of my sailing.

Micron66 is great paint for the tropics, but apparently doesn't do well in brackish water.  Here on the Chesapeake they put Micron 66 on a boat at the owner's request, and had to repaint in just a few months.  Interlux paid the bill for the prep and new paint job.  Since I'll be in brackish water for the next several months, I'm going to go with their recommended Pettit Ultima SR60.  When they have the old paint removed and the hull is dry enough, they'll put a coat of primer and two coats of paint.  I'll let you know how it does.

It turns out that SeaHawk Island 44, the tin-based paint is available almost everywhe re but the US.  It's actually sold in the US but can only be applied to boats of 75ftLOA.  Most large ships and USNavy ships are painted with similar paints to avoid hauling out so often.  So us little boats are the least likely to be polluting with bottom paint, but are the only ones who can't buy it here. What a crock!  Gotta love the EPA.  If this Pettit paint doesn't last more than a couple years, I'll probably go elsewhere and have Island 44 put on again.

Steady as she goes.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
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