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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Safety bars on hatches.

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Alexandre,

Thank you for the reference.  I will look into it…

Cheers,

Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM007



On 1 Jul 2015, at 16:18, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good morning Jean Pierre,

Here is what I purchased:
http://nikimat.com/hatches_safety_bars.html
I like them because they are removable and heavy duty, they will discourage the random thief.
But they are very heavy.
Back in May 2013 they cost $405 from www.swi-tec.us

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 7/1/15, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Safety bars on hatches.
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Wednesday, July 1, 2015, 7:33 AM


 









Hi Gang,



We are in the process of installing safety bars on the
hatches; the Admiral insists.



I recall seeing a removable design which made a lot of
sense. However, after searching, I found nothing.



Can someone help?



Jean-Pierre Germain

SY Eleuthera, SM007













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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Safety bars on hatches.

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Jean Pierre,

Here is what I purchased:
http://nikimat.com/hatches_safety_bars.html
I like them because they are removable and heavy duty, they will discourage the random thief.
But they are very heavy.
Back in May 2013 they cost $405 from www.swi-tec.us

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT


--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 7/1/15, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Safety bars on hatches.
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Wednesday, July 1, 2015, 7:33 AM


 









Hi Gang,



We are in the process of installing safety bars on the
hatches; the Admiral insists.



I recall seeing a removable design which made a lot of
sense. However, after searching, I found nothing.



Can someone help?



Jean-Pierre Germain

SY Eleuthera, SM007
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Safety bars on hatches.

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hi Gang,

We are in the process of installing safety bars on the hatches; the Admiral insists.

I recall seeing a removable design which made a lot of sense. However, after searching, I found nothing.

Can someone help?

Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM007
Re: SSB HF Antenna

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Derick:

Last year I replaced my original Amel supplied SSB antenna because the lower section had a crack along it's entire length and the plastic ball mount had broken and been repaired with structural adhesive twice (aging plastic).  My replacement was a Shakespeare SSB antenna with a 1 inch 14-thread per inch female mount on the bottom.  I purchased one of these:    http://shakespeare-ce.com/marine/product/410-r-swivel-mount-mounting-kit/   to mount it but I didn't want to drill holes in the deck to match the mounting plate.  I disassembled the above kit, drilled a slightly larger hole in the existing Amel rectangular aluminum base mount and assembled the SS 1 inch 14-thread per inch swivel onto the aluminum base using nylon isolation washers to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion.  It is way stronger than the original, isn't plastic so it won't age in that way, and I didn't have to drill new holes in the deck.  The antenna also mounts and dismounts (just unscrews) much more easily as I take the antenna down to stow below decks while on the hard for hurricane season. 

All the best, 

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona   on the Hard in Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico 
Amel SM #335
 
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SSB HF Antenna

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Derick & Bill,

Not sure I am talking about the same thing, but I thought the Antenna mount were from Marcucci: parts 5795426 and 5795425
Haven’t find a place to source them either.

Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Sat, 6/27/15, derickgates@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SSB HF Antenna
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Saturday, June 27, 2015, 11:39 AM


 









Bill,
It
appears that Banten, the manufacturing source for these
mounts, is in Italy.  However their website indicates that
they only sell through retailers.  They then fail to
indicate who their distributors are!  I am tempted to sign
up as a retailer. Perhaps you can find a local distributor
while you are still in Italy?  I am looking for sources of
both the ball mount and the mid-antenna rail clip (parts
00015 and 00020) online without success.  I don't need
them until November when I splash Brava again in Antigua.
 If you find a distributor I will gladly buy them off you
when you reach the Caribbean again.   Otherwise I need to
investigate alternatives.  
The Shakespeare mount and (rail
clip) that Gary Silver found may have the same size screw
threads (1 inch - 14 standard) to fit the base of the Banten
7 meter whip antenna but I will seek confirmation of that.
 I have brought the broken ball fitting back with me to
Massachusetts to attempt to find a match.  I'll let you
know if I am successful.
I would love to finally meet you and
Judy when you get to the Caribbean.  Between BeBe's
blog and your generous Amel group postings you have both
been very inspirational and a major factor in bringing me up
to speed. 
Derick
SM2K #400 BravaCurrently
on the hard in Antigua









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Re: Generator/Shorepower Transfer Switch

luvkante
 

Thank you Kent!
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Generator/Shorepower Transfer Switch

karkauai
 

Martin,
On most SMs, it is above the generator, and marked "220Volts".
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 28, 2015, at 11:41 AM, luvkante@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Mark,

Where is that box located?

Martin
S/V CHIARA
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ISOLATION OF YANMAR 4JH4-HTE - OLDER MARAMU

karkauai
 

Alex,
When I get mine isolated and can confirm that it works as advertised, I'll post all the necessary parts, photos, and description of the process.

In the meantime, I'd recommend that you get a reference electrode and check your hull potential with and without your engine and genset running. Here's one at BoatZincs:
http://www.boatzincs.com/corrosion-reference-electrode.html

On our Amels, with the reference electrode in the water and connected to the negative post of your multimeter, and the positive electrode of your multimeter on your bonding system, your hull potential should read between -900 and -1050mV. If it is more positive (less negative, say -700mV) you are under protected and should look for a source of electric current leak. If you get a reading more negative (say -1200mV), you are over protected and can have problems with bottom paint or other issues less dramatic than electrolytic damage to your prop shaft or thru-hulls.

All metal exposed to saltwater should read the same potential if they are properly bonded to the zincs. If not, check the connections of your bonding system.

More in a week or two (I hope),
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Re: Generator/Shorepower Transfer Switch

luvkante
 

Mark,

Where is that box located?

Martin
S/V CHIARA
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ISOLATION OF YANMAR 4JH4-HTE - OLDER MARAMU

Alejandro Paquin
 

Kent, thanks for your response, yes, it is a Yanmar 110 4JH4HTE, I know it may be a little too much but we were offered this by Yanmar in Venezuela, they only had two engines and it was an exceptionally good price.
By the way, no one in Yanmar we contacted could answser our questions either on isolation issues nor freewheeling of the transmission. The US people would not  talk to us because the boat was not in the USA.
In any case, obviously, our installation in not isolated and would not know what to do from this point. It seems pretty complicated, especially because of the lack of information on the subject and lack of parts and lack of cooperation from the manufacturer. So on our boat, now ground is also negative. Unfortunately until we solve this issue.
Alex 
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SSB HF Antenna

Peter Forbes
 

In case it helps - POCHON in the French port of Hyères has just fitted a 7 m antenna with base socket and rail bracket to my Amel 54 - I don't know if it is the same. Pochon are electrical sub contractors to Amel Mediterranean.

Peter Forbes
Carango Amel 54 # 035
Saint Mandrier
France


On 27 Jun 2015, at 18:39, derickgates@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,


It appears that Banten, the manufacturing source for these mounts, is in Italy.  However their website indicates that they only sell through retailers.  They then fail to indicate who their distributors are!  I am tempted to sign up as a retailer. Perhaps you can find a local distributor while you are still in Italy?  I am looking for sources of both the ball mount and the mid-antenna rail clip (parts 00015 and 00020) online without success.  I don't need them until November when I splash Brava again in Antigua.  If you find a distributor I will gladly buy them off you when you reach the Caribbean again.   Otherwise I need to investigate alternatives.  

The Shakespeare mount and (rail clip) that Gary Silver found may have the same size screw threads (1 inch - 14 standard) to fit the base of the Banten 7 meter whip antenna but I will seek confirmation of that.  I have brought the broken ball fitting back with me to Massachusetts to attempt to find a match.  I'll let you know if I am successful.

I would love to finally meet you and Judy when you get to the Caribbean.  Between BeBe's blog and your generous Amel group postings you have both been very inspirational and a major factor in bringing me up to speed. 

Derick

SM2K #400 Brava
Currently on the hard in Antigua
Re: SSB HF Antenna

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

Bill,

It appears that Banten, the manufacturing source for these mounts, is in Italy.  However their website indicates that they only sell through retailers.  They then fail to indicate who their distributors are!  I am tempted to sign up as a retailer. Perhaps you can find a local distributor while you are still in Italy?  I am looking for sources of both the ball mount and the mid-antenna rail clip (parts 00015 and 00020) online without success.  I don't need them until November when I splash Brava again in Antigua.  If you find a distributor I will gladly buy them off you when you reach the Caribbean again.   Otherwise I need to investigate alternatives.  

The Shakespeare mount and (rail clip) that Gary Silver found may have the same size screw threads (1 inch - 14 standard) to fit the base of the Banten 7 meter whip antenna but I will seek confirmation of that.  I have brought the broken ball fitting back with me to Massachusetts to attempt to find a match.  I'll let you know if I am successful.

I would love to finally meet you and Judy when you get to the Caribbean.  Between BeBe's blog and your generous Amel group postings you have both been very inspirational and a major factor in bringing me up to speed. 

Derick

SM2K #400 Brava
Currently on the hard in Antigua
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ISOLATION OF YANMAR 4JH4-HTE - OLDER MARAMU

karkauai
 

Hi Alex,
Amel sold me the "isolation kit" for ~800 Euros.  It consisted of the schematic and photos as posted in the Files, two solenoids (I don't know why two as the schematic only shows one), an isolated ground oil pressure switch, an isolated ground temperature switch, three diodes, and a few assorted nuts and bolts.  It was worth about $200 US if purchased elsewhere.  It did NOT contain the senders for the oil pressure gauge or temperature gauge, and did NOT contain a wiring harness, both of which are clearly pictured and described in the photos and schematic, which were actually sent to me prior to my purchase of the "Kit".

This is for the Yanmar 110 4JH4HTE, is that the engine you re-powered with?

The biggest problem will be finding the isolated ground switches and senders.  I can post the model numbers of the switches when I get back to my boat, but I think it would be prudent to wait until I get the isolation completed and can confirm that everything works as advertised.  The other issue will be the alternator(s).  I believe that the 12v alternator on my Yanmar (for the start battery) has an isolated ground wire, but it is attached to the engine block.  I'm not yet sure that it will work in the isolated ground system described.

The final problem will be finding a marine electrician who really understands what Amel is doing if you aren't savvy enough to do it yourself (like me).  U.S. electricians are often well-versed in ABYC standards, but don't have a clue when it comes to European standards or especially the Amel system.

I should know more in a couple weeks and will post again when I am sure I'm giving accurate information.

Good luck
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 27, 2015, at 9:33 AM, alex.paquin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good day to all, I´ve been researching the group site on the topic of isolation of this engine to Amel specs. I did find the file of the schematics for this job, which will give some clues, and grateful it even exists. However, I don´t seem to find any conclusions or complete instructions to carry out this job. Does Amel sell this kit?

We re powered our Maramu in 2013 with this engine because of the opportunity we found and it works fine, but now I very concerned with the isolation issues, since now it is not isolated and cannot imagine the consequences of not doing so. So far, there are no symptoms of corrosion. We do not have a C drive but an ordinary shaft, so it is quite simple to inspect.

The boat is pretty much the original 12 VDC  setup, except for the new engine and new electronics and 12 VDC refrigerators. The AC wiring is only used while on the dock and there is no generator on board.

Any comments or advice taking into consideration this is not a Super Maramu?

Alex

SIMPATICO

Maramu hull #94, 1981
ISOLATION OF YANMAR 4JH4-HTE - OLDER MARAMU

Alejandro Paquin
 

Good day to all, I´ve been researching the group site on the topic of isolation of this engine to Amel specs. I did find the file of the schematics for this job, which will give some clues, and grateful it even exists. However, I don´t seem to find any conclusions or complete instructions to carry out this job. Does Amel sell this kit?

We re powered our Maramu in 2013 with this engine because of the opportunity we found and it works fine, but now I very concerned with the isolation issues, since now it is not isolated and cannot imagine the consequences of not doing so. So far, there are no symptoms of corrosion. We do not have a C drive but an ordinary shaft, so it is quite simple to inspect.

The boat is pretty much the original 12 VDC  setup, except for the new engine and new electronics and 12 VDC refrigerators. The AC wiring is only used while on the dock and there is no generator on board.

Any comments or advice taking into consideration this is not a Super Maramu?

Alex

SIMPATICO

Maramu hull #94, 1981
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Yep back in Newport. Yes we had a coupling failure on the way to Malta 3 of the 4 pins broke. 
Between there and Boston we put about 500 hours on the Yanmar with no issues. We did a good deal of motor sailing given light winds and a very weak battery bank. Our burn rate at 1200 was 2 liters per hour clean bottom and new auto prop. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Jun 26, 2015, at 11:24, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Richard,


Back in RI??  How many hours of sailing/engine did you do on the SM you moved from Goček?

Saw you had issues in Malta…

Cheers,

Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM 007




On 26 Jun 2015, at 18:19, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Take a look at posts Kent has on this site. Not isolating the engine will over a very short time cause a issues with the Amel drive and engine. The old saying an once of prevention.    

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Jun 26, 2015, at 07:51, alex.paquin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

So what would be the consequences on not isolating the engine ´s negative on all electrical sensors, actuators and alternators?

Alex Paquin
Simpatico Hull 94
Older Maramu 1981


Posted by: Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
Reply via web post • Reply to sender • Reply to group • Start a New Topic • Messages in this topic (38)

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SSB HF Antenna

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Derick,

Mine failed also, but by drilling and inserting a SS pin and using some JB Weld, it is as good as new...at least until I find one.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 26, 2015 8:03 PM, "derickgates@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Gary,


Did the old 7 meter whip antenna fit the new Shakespeare mount?  My plastic ball fitting just failed and I am having a hard time sourcing a new one.

Derick

SM2K#400 Brava
Currently on the hard in Antigua for hurricane season
New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,


This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.


File : /_Kit isolation Yanmar.pdf
Uploaded by : karkauai <karkauai@...>
Description : Schematic and photos from Amel that show how to electrically isolate the Yanmar 4JH4HTE. It requires making your own new wiring harness, isolated ground switches and senders for oil pressure and temperature cut-off and gauges, isolated ground alternator(s), diodes, and a solenoid in the negative wire between the block and the negative battery post. The isolated ground components are grounded back to the battery instead of being grounded to the block. The starter and stop solenoid cannot be isolated, so they operate via the solenoid when the engine is cranked or stop switch is compressed. As soon as the key is released to the "run" position, or the stop button is released, the solenoid opens the circuit so that the engine is no longer connected to the negative battery post.
The most difficult part of this project is finding the proper isolated ground senders and switches. Yanmar will not release the specs. You can get the numbers and thread sizes directly from the senders and switches (the numbers are stamped in the hex heads used to tighten them into the block), but they still have to be interpreted, and comparable isolated ground parts found. I will post this when I am certain that I have something that works.


You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/_Kit%20isolation%20Yanmar.pdf


To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
https://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?page=content&y=PROD_GRPS&locale=en_US&id=SLN15398


Regards,


karkauai <karkauai@...>
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Thank your information Patrick,
Seems that SM with the fix prop are getting more out of their engines.

Sincerely, Alexandre
Sm2K #289 NIKIMAT
Grand Bahama


--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 6/26/15, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Friday, June 26, 2015, 9:03 AM


 










Alexandre , I have a TMD22A and have always
obtained 2800 rpm and about 8.4 knts. I have a fixed prop.
Pat SM #123

 

 

-----Original Message-----

From: Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>

To: amelyachtowners
<amelyachtowners@...>

Sent: Thu, Jun 25, 2015 10:22 pm

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower










 







Do you get 2800 rpm Danny?

Only get 2500...



Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Thu, 6/25/15, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:



Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

To: "amelyachtowners@..."
<amelyachtowners@...>

Date: Thursday, June 25, 2015, 9:16 PM





 



















Hi,

I believe

the rated full revs under load for the TMD22 is

2800rpm. RegardsDannySM 299

Ocean Pearl

 

From: "Alexandre

Uster von Baar uster@...
[amelyachtowners]"

<amelyachtowners@...>



To:

amelyachtowners@...


Sent: Friday, 26 June

2015 11:14 AM

Subject: Re: [Amel

Yacht Owners] Repower





 



















Hallo

Hanspeter,







I have only own my SM2K since 2012, so my experience is

limited.







I have the Volvo TMD 22 P (same as Perkins M80T) which
is

rated for 78HP at 4500 RPM







Until 2 months ago, I was only able to reach 2100 to
2200

rpm (which gives 50 HP).



If you are not familiar with SM not able to reach high
RPM,

search post on possible oversize propeller for the SM
(at

least for the ones with the Volvo).







Earlier this year I had the propeller rebuild, I can
reach

2500 rpm (which is 56 HP).



Note that the maximum torque is at 2500 rpm.







Mostly I motor at 1600 rpm, which gives me 5 knots, and
use

less than 3.5 liter (less than 1 gallon) per hour.



Sometime I motor at 1800 rpm and I (think I) obtain 7
knots.





Every 10 hours, I increase the throttle to its max 2500
rpm

then reduce to 2400 rpm for a few minutes to clean

exhaust/turbo.



Personally I wish (for a sailing vessel) it was normally

aspirated, as I had the turbo rebuilt in 2012 then
changed

in 2015.







If you want, I can post the TMD22P data.







Sincerely, Alexandre



SM2K #289 NIKIMAT



Grand Bahama, Bahamas.







--------------------------------------------



On Thu, 6/25/15, 'hanspeter.baettig@...'

hanspeter.baettig@bluemail..ch [amelyachtowners]

<amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:







Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower



To: "amelyachtowners@..."

<amelyachtowners@...>



Date: Thursday, June 25, 2015, 5:44 PM











 







































Question to all SM ownersWhats



the different between 80 hp and 110 hpMax Speed



for SM is ca 8.5 knIndependent how much power,



the power on the Prop is Important I have this



speed with clean  boat/Propeller with the Perkins 80 hp



Turbo (1990, 3000 h)HanspeterSM 16



Tamango 2Göcek, Tutkey







Von meinem iPhone gesendet



Am 25.06.2015 um 18:18 schrieb "Germain



Jean-Pierre jgermain@...



[amelyachtowners]"

<amelyachtowners@...>:



































































 



























Wise choice Steve..



JPG
On



25 Jun 2015, at 17:00, flyboyscd@...



[amelyachtowners]

<amelyachtowners@...>



wrote:



































































 



























Thanks for the info Chris. It looks like 80 hp is



the way to go on our older boats due to the Cdrive



issues.







Regards,



Steve and Liz



Aloha SM72















































































































































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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower

karkauai
 

If you are getting the 80 HP, the MaxProp setting should be similar to the old Perkins or my old Volvo, I think.  There was a significant difference between the Volvo78 and the Yanmar110.  I'll get them to you next week, too, when I get back to the boat.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 26, 2015, at 12:53 PM, Steve Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Kent. You are a wealth of knowledge on this subject, and a great resource for the group. I'm curious, is your alternator an isolated ground alternator? Also, what gadget do you have to measure hull potential, as I need one. I will admit that your experience has scared me a bit. 

On another subject, do you happen to know the pitch marks for your max prop? I've got the same prop, and suspect I'll need to adjust the pitch for the higher revving Yanmar. 

Steve and Liz
Aloha SM72




On Jun 26, 2015, at 12:36, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

It's my understanding that it shouldn't cause a problem unless there is a fault in the engine's electrical system.  If there is, it can eat up your zincs almost overnight, then start working on the CDrive.
In my case I hauled out to paint the bottom, and discovered the prop zinc gone and rudder zincs almost gone.  While changing the prop shaft seals I discovered the shaft was about 1/3 eaten away as if a blow torch had been used on it.
I discovered a poorly installed charger/inverter that also had a fault, and poorly connected bonding system when I repowered with a Yanmar a few years ago.  I didn't understand the Amel grounding systems well enough at that time and the Yanmar was not isolated as Amel recommends.  I felt certain that the cause of my shaft problem was the charger/inverter and/or poorly bonded CDrive after re powering. 
 Isolating the new Yanmar is more complicated than it should be, and all hull potential readings were normal, so I elected to do the isolation later when I had all the necessary parts assembled.

After being back in the water only 5 weeks, I dove on the prop and discovered that the zincs were half gone.  This was in spite of all hull potential readings being in the "safe" range...but I never checked hull potential with the Yanmar or ONAN running.
When I get back to the boat next week, I expect to find a faulty alternator on the Yanmar.  If not, I'll let you know what I do find.  If that's what it is, the fault is grounded to the bonding system and would have destroyed my prop shaft again!
Before going back in the water I will have the Yanmar electrically isolated.
I will check hull potential monthly and weekly when on the dock with both the Yanmar and ONAN running,  the AC on, and the DC chargers running.
I won't stay connected to shore power unless I am on the boat.

I understand that the Amel system of isolating the bonding system from all AC and DC systems is what is done with metal-hulled boats, but can't confirm that.  It makes a lot more sense to me that that ABYC system of connecting all AC and DC systems to the bonding system.  It's another way that Capn Amel has good reason for designing his boats as he did.  Don't make changes without fully understanding why your boat is designed as it is.

More in a week or so!
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 26, 2015, at 11:19 AM, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Take a look at posts Kent has on this site. Not isolating the engine will over a very short time cause a issues with the Amel drive and engine. The old saying an once of prevention.    

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Jun 26, 2015, at 07:51, alex.paquin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

So what would be the consequences on not isolating the engine ´s negative on all electrical sensors, actuators and alternators?

Alex Paquin
Simpatico Hull 94
Older Maramu 1981
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower

karkauai
 

The 12v alternator that came on my Yanmar110 has a ground wire, but it is grounded to the block.  I think I will be able to use it.  The 24v alternator that was in the old Volvo is also an isolated ground, but has been grounded to the non-isolated Yanmar ground wire thus far.  Once I get the harness built, install the new switches, senders, and solenoids, both alternators and the senders will be grounded back to the negative on the battery side of the solenoid.  The solenoid will make the connection of the engine block to the negative battery post only when the engine is cranked or when the STOP button is pushed.  When the engine is stopped or running, the connection is interrupted by the solenoid.
It'll make more sense when I get the isolation schematics to you.
Good luck,
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 26, 2015, at 12:53 PM, Steve Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Kent. You are a wealth of knowledge on this subject, and a great resource for the group. I'm curious, is your alternator an isolated ground alternator? Also, what gadget do you have to measure hull potential, as I need one. I will admit that your experience has scared me a bit. 

On another subject, do you happen to know the pitch marks for your max prop? I've got the same prop, and suspect I'll need to adjust the pitch for the higher revving Yanmar. 

Steve and Liz
Aloha SM72




On Jun 26, 2015, at 12:36, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

It's my understanding that it shouldn't cause a problem unless there is a fault in the engine's electrical system.  If there is, it can eat up your zincs almost overnight, then start working on the CDrive.
In my case I hauled out to paint the bottom, and discovered the prop zinc gone and rudder zincs almost gone.  While changing the prop shaft seals I discovered the shaft was about 1/3 eaten away as if a blow torch had been used on it.
I discovered a poorly installed charger/inverter that also had a fault, and poorly connected bonding system when I repowered with a Yanmar a few years ago.  I didn't understand the Amel grounding systems well enough at that time and the Yanmar was not isolated as Amel recommends.  I felt certain that the cause of my shaft problem was the charger/inverter and/or poorly bonded CDrive after re powering. 
 Isolating the new Yanmar is more complicated than it should be, and all hull potential readings were normal, so I elected to do the isolation later when I had all the necessary parts assembled.

After being back in the water only 5 weeks, I dove on the prop and discovered that the zincs were half gone.  This was in spite of all hull potential readings being in the "safe" range...but I never checked hull potential with the Yanmar or ONAN running.
When I get back to the boat next week, I expect to find a faulty alternator on the Yanmar.  If not, I'll let you know what I do find.  If that's what it is, the fault is grounded to the bonding system and would have destroyed my prop shaft again!
Before going back in the water I will have the Yanmar electrically isolated.
I will check hull potential monthly and weekly when on the dock with both the Yanmar and ONAN running,  the AC on, and the DC chargers running.
I won't stay connected to shore power unless I am on the boat.

I understand that the Amel system of isolating the bonding system from all AC and DC systems is what is done with metal-hulled boats, but can't confirm that.  It makes a lot more sense to me that that ABYC system of connecting all AC and DC systems to the bonding system.  It's another way that Capn Amel has good reason for designing his boats as he did.  Don't make changes without fully understanding why your boat is designed as it is.

More in a week or so!
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 26, 2015, at 11:19 AM, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Take a look at posts Kent has on this site. Not isolating the engine will over a very short time cause a issues with the Amel drive and engine. The old saying an once of prevention.    

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Jun 26, 2015, at 07:51, alex.paquin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

So what would be the consequences on not isolating the engine ´s negative on all electrical sensors, actuators and alternators?

Alex Paquin
Simpatico Hull 94
Older Maramu 1981
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