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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 


On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 4:27 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hmm.  That link wouldn't open on my iPhone.  I'll try it again on my laptop.  If next time I decide to paint with something not available here, I'll probably be somewhere outside the U.S. and EPA tentacles.  Thanks for the offer, though, I'll keep it in mind.
Kent


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:20 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,


I said that I wouldn't do it mostly because I am lazy. It is too bad that Micron77 is not sold in the USA...the EPA has blocked its application along with every application during the last 6 years...what goes with that? Anyway, Micron77 is good in fresh, salt and brackish. Maybe I can smuggle some to you. ;)

Bill

On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 4:13 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <a melyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill.  I don't mind doing it in warm water, but not cold.  I'm looking at making my own Hookah system for cleaning the bottom, unfouling the prop, changing zincs, maybe enuf hose to unfoul an anchor.  For now I'm going to put Pettits Ultimate SR60 on and see how it lasts.  Waiting to hear how others in the tropics fare w CopperCoat.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:04 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Remember, if you like cleaning/scrubbing/diving on your bottom 2-4 times a year, then CopperCoat is good for you. Me...I am too lazy for that!

Bill
BeBe

On Mon, Jul 6, 2015 at 5:33 PM, karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi, Bill,
I've been doing some research about all this, and talking to the paint gurus here at Deltaville Boat Yard.

It seems that CopperCoat works extremely well in colder water like the NE USA and Mediterranean, but not so much in the tropics, where I'll be doing most of my sailing.

Micron66 is great paint for the tropics, but apparently doesn't do well in brackish water.  Here on the Chesapeake they put Micron 66 on a boat at the owner's request, and had to repaint in just a few months.  Interlux paid the bill for the prep and new paint job.  Since I'll be in brackish water for the next several months, I'm going to go with their recommended Pettit Ultima SR60.  When they have the old paint removed and the hull is dry enough, they'll put a coat of primer and two coats of paint.  I'll let you know how it does.

It turns out that SeaHawk Island 44, the tin-based paint is available almost everywhe re but the US.  It's actually sold in the US but can only be applied to boats of 75ftLOA.  Most large ships and USNavy ships are painted with similar paints to avoid hauling out so often.  So us little boats are the least likely to be polluting with bottom paint, but are the only ones who can't buy it here. What a crock!  Gotta love the EPA.  If this Pettit paint doesn't last more than a couple years, I'll probably go elsewhere and have Island 44 put on again.

Steady as she goes.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning

karkauai
 

Hmm.  That link wouldn't open on my iPhone.  I'll try it again on my laptop.  If next time I decide to paint with something not available here, I'll probably be somewhere outside the U.S. and EPA tentacles.  Thanks for the offer, though, I'll keep it in mind.
Kent


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:20 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,


I said that I wouldn't do it mostly because I am lazy. It is too bad that Micron77 is not sold in the USA...the EPA has blocked its application along with every application during the last 6 years...what goes with that? Anyway, Micron77 is good in fresh, salt and brackish. Maybe I can smuggle some to you. ;)

Bill

On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 4:13 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill.  I don't mind doing it in warm water, but not cold.  I'm looking at making my own Hookah system for cleaning the bottom, unfouling the prop, changing zincs, maybe enuf hose to unfoul an anchor.  For now I'm going to put Pettits Ultimate SR60 on and see how it lasts.  Waiting to hear how others in the tropics fare w CopperCoat.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:04 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Remember, if you like cleaning/scrubbing/diving on your bottom 2-4 times a year, then CopperCoat is good for you. Me...I am too lazy for that!

Bill
BeBe

On Mon, Jul 6, 2015 at 5:33 PM, karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi, Bill,
I've been doing some research about all this, and talking to the paint gurus here at Deltaville Boat Yard.

It seems that CopperCoat works extremely well in colder water like the NE USA and Mediterranean, but not so much in the tropics, where I'll be doing most of my sailing.

Micron66 is great paint for the tropics, but apparently doesn't do well in brackish water.  Here on the Chesapeake they put Micron 66 on a boat at the owner's request, and had to repaint in just a few months.  Interlux paid the bill for the prep and new paint job.  Since I'll be in brackish water for the next several months, I'm going to go with their recommended Pettit Ultima SR60.  When they have the old paint removed and the hull is dry enough, they'll put a coat of primer and two coats of paint.  I'll let you know how it does.

It turns out that SeaHawk Island 44, the tin-based paint is available almost everywhe re but the US.  It's actually sold in the US but can only be applied to boats of 75ftLOA.  Most large ships and USNavy ships are painted with similar paints to avoid hauling out so often.  So us little boats are the least likely to be polluting with bottom paint, but are the only ones who can't buy it here. What a crock!  Gotta love the EPA.  If this Pettit paint doesn't last more than a couple years, I'll probably go elsewhere and have Island 44 put on again.

Steady as she goes.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Kent,


I said that I wouldn't do it mostly because I am lazy. It is too bad that Micron77 is not sold in the USA...the EPA has blocked its application along with every application during the last 6 years...what goes with that? Anyway, Micron77 is good in fresh, salt and brackish. Maybe I can smuggle some to you. ;)

Bill

On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 4:13 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill.  I don't mind doing it in warm water, but not cold.  I'm looking at making my own Hookah system for cleaning the bottom, unfouling the prop, changing zincs, maybe enuf hose to unfoul an anchor.  For now I'm going to put Pettits Ultimate SR60 on and see how it lasts.  Waiting to hear how others in the tropics fare w CopperCoat.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:04 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Remember, if you like cleaning/scrubbing/diving on your bottom 2-4 times a year, then CopperCoat is good for you. Me...I am too lazy for that!

Bill
BeBe

On Mon, Jul 6, 2015 at 5:33 PM, karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi, Bill,
I've been doing some research about all this, and talking to the paint gurus here at Deltaville Boat Yard.

It seems that CopperCoat works extremely well in colder water like the NE USA and Mediterranean, but not so much in the tropics, where I'll be doing most of my sailing.

Micron66 is great paint for the tropics, but apparently doesn't do well in brackish water.  Here on the Chesapeake they put Micron 66 on a boat at the owner's request, and had to repaint in just a few months.  Interlux paid the bill for the prep and new paint job.  Since I'll be in brackish water for the next several months, I'm going to go with their recommended Pettit Ultima SR60.  When they have the old paint removed and the hull is dry enough, they'll put a coat of primer and two coats of paint.  I'll let you know how it does.

It turns out that SeaHawk Island 44, the tin-based paint is available almost everywhe re but the US.  It's actually sold in the US but can only be applied to boats of 75ftLOA.  Most large ships and USNavy ships are painted with similar paints to avoid hauling out so often.  So us little boats are the least likely to be polluting with bottom paint, but are the only ones who can't buy it here. What a crock!  Gotta love the EPA.  If this Pettit paint doesn't last more than a couple years, I'll probably go elsewhere and have Island 44 put on again.

Steady as she goes.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water maker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Keith,

I do not think it is possible for "no" pressure to build and reflect on the gauge when turning the valve, unless the system has a "dump" valve for poor quality...and I do not yours has this...or does it? 

I suspect the valve that you are turning is faulty, and is not closing as it is supposed to do, limiting the saltwater output and increasing pressure on the outside of the membranes, which forces water through the membranes, in effect making desalinated water.

Bill

On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 7:01 AM, gegcarter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I also have a problem with my water-maker, which is the 50l/hr Dessalator unit.  It's probably down to neglect. 


When we bought GUMA the water-maker worked (although when Olivier, who did the survey, offered me the sample to drink I did think it smelled a bit of eggs...).  Then followed two years where we were frequently in marinas where good quality water was available and so the water-maker was not required ... or used.  Such was my ignorance. 

'Use it or lose it', I have been told - too late, inevitably.

So at the end of last year I tried making some water for the first time, really, since buying the boat:
  • The sampling tube on the control panel did not produce any water.  I had my sample anyway as I had disconnected the outlet feed from the water-maker to the tank, to protect both the tank and its existing content from contamination, havin g been told not to trust the 'good / bad' sensor on the control panel and remembering the eggy smell. 
  • The water emerging from the feed tube was super-eggy!  It tasted OK, but the smell was bad. 
I was advised that there was probably microbial contamination on the membranes and that I should pickle them for a while.  So I acquired some steriliser and, following the instructions in the multi-lingual brochure from Dessalator, infused the device with it.  That was just before spending 4 months in Licata marina for the winter 2014/15. 

As soon as we were in clean seas this season I tried the water-maker again. Rinsing with fresh water, then switching the valve back to seawater and following the instructions:
  • The water maker seemed to be acting normally, and I increased the pressure. 
  • Nothing from the sampling pipe (as expected from before)
  • Nothing from the fe ed pipe to the tanks - which I had again removed to collect whatever was made. 
  • Then the device switched itself off - maybe due to excess pressure (I was in the engine room observing proceedings from there - mechanically everything looked fine). 
On subsequent attempts to run the water-maker the device seems not to generate any pressure.  Running on 'open', water is pumped through the system and out through the hull.  On increasing the pressure valve by turning clockwise there is very little response on the gauge, little action in the manometer tube, and, at high pressure settings, no discernable water being ejected through the hull skin fitting. Needless to say, no water from the reservoir feed-tube either. 

It seems to me that the pump cannot be generating pressure - or a protective sensor is stopping it (but not switching off the pump).  

Any thoughts on what has happened , why, and what I should do about it? 

Keith
SY GUMA
Currently in Thasos, N Greece.
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning

karkauai
 

Hi Bill.  I don't mind doing it in warm water, but not cold.  I'm looking at making my own Hookah system for cleaning the bottom, unfouling the prop, changing zincs, maybe enuf hose to unfoul an anchor.  For now I'm going to put Pettits Ultimate SR60 on and see how it lasts.  Waiting to hear how others in the tropics fare w CopperCoat.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 8, 2015, at 10:04 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Remember, if you like cleaning/scrubbing/diving on your bottom 2-4 times a year, then CopperCoat is good for you. Me...I am too lazy for that!

Bill
BeBe

On Mon, Jul 6, 2015 at 5:33 PM, karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi, Bill,
I've been doing some research about all this, and talking to the paint gurus here at Deltaville Boat Yard.

It seems that CopperCoat works extremely well in colder water like the NE USA and Mediterranean, but not so much in the tropics, where I'll be doing most of my sailing.

Micron66 is great paint for the tropics, but apparently doesn't do well in brackish water.  Here on the Chesapeake they put Micron 66 on a boat at the owner's request, and had to repaint in just a few months.  Interlux paid the bill for the prep and new paint job.  Since I'll be in brackish water for the next several months, I'm going to go with their recommended Pettit Ultima SR60.  When they have the old paint removed and the hull is dry enough, they'll put a coat of primer and two coats of paint.  I'll let you know how it does.

It turns out that SeaHawk Island 44, the tin-based paint is available almost everywhe re but the US.  It's actually sold in the US but can only be applied to boats of 75ftLOA.  Most large ships and USNavy ships are painted with similar paints to avoid hauling out so often.  So us little boats are the least likely to be polluting with bottom paint, but are the only ones who can't buy it here. What a crock!  Gotta love the EPA.  If this Pettit paint doesn't last more than a couple years, I'll probably go elsewhere and have Island 44 put on again.

Steady as she goes.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Kent,

Remember, if you like cleaning/scrubbing/diving on your bottom 2-4 times a year, then CopperCoat is good for you. Me...I am too lazy for that!

Bill
BeBe

On Mon, Jul 6, 2015 at 5:33 PM, karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi, Bill,
I've been doing some research about all this, and talking to the paint gurus here at Deltaville Boat Yard.

It seems that CopperCoat works extremely well in colder water like the NE USA and Mediterranean, but not so much in the tropics, where I'll be doing most of my sailing.

Micron66 is great paint for the tropics, but apparently doesn't do well in brackish water.  Here on the Chesapeake they put Micron 66 on a boat at the owner's request, and had to repaint in just a few months.  Interlux paid the bill for the prep and new paint job.  Since I'll be in brackish water for the next several months, I'm going to go with their recommended Pettit Ultima SR60.  When they have the old paint removed and the hull is dry enough, they'll put a coat of primer and two coats of paint.  I'll let you know how it does.

It turns out that SeaHawk Island 44, the tin-based paint is available almost everywhe re but the US.  It's actually sold in the US but can only be applied to boats of 75ftLOA.  Most large ships and USNavy ships are painted with similar paints to avoid hauling out so often.  So us little boats are the least likely to be polluting with bottom paint, but are the only ones who can't buy it here. What a crock!  Gotta love the EPA.  If this Pettit paint doesn't last more than a couple years, I'll probably go elsewhere and have Island 44 put on again.

Steady as she goes.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Supermaramu Mizzen Spotlight

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Eric,

Purchased mine from:
http://store.marinebeam.com/41sebereledb.html

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Flamingo Marina, Grand Bahama


--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 7/8/15, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Supermaramu Mizzen Spotlight
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, July 8, 2015, 12:17 AM


 









Hi
Guys,I must have deleted the
posting of the source of the LED bulbs.Please
advise.Fair
WindsEricKimberlite Amel Super
Maramu #376    From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2015 9:08 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners]
Supermaramu Mizzen Spotlight    Good morning Kent & Eric,


Just for info:
For the cockpit I use the 13 Watt 60 degree and
it is extremely bright.
It is excellent for
“work”, but too much for dinner. I might add a little
filter to make it more romantic.
So for
dinner I simply use the dodger light (which I replace with
LED).

I have the same (13
Watt 60 degree) for the main but have not installed yet, so
can’t give an opinion if the angle is too wide, etc.
Will try to do install it this coming week.

Sincerely, Alexandre
Sm2K #289 NIKIMAT
Taino Beach,
Grand Bahama

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 5/31/15, sailormon kimberlite@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel
Yacht Owners] Supermaramu Mizzen Spotlight
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Sunday, May 31, 2015, 5:53 PM


 









Kent,Based upon your
description I guess you used the 13 watt units.
30 degree
for the foredeck and 60 degrees
for the
cockpit.That is the only bulb
that comes in 2 angles.Fair
WindsEricKimberlite Amel Super
Maramu #376    From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]

Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 6:46 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners]
Supermaramu Mizzen Spotlight    I'm not
on the boat for a
few weeks, but I have the
model numbers for the mast-mounted
deck and
cockpit lights.  The cockpit lite has a wider beam
(more like a flood) and the forward deck lite
has a
narrower beam (more of a spot light).I
still have a couple of
spares of
incandescent bulbs for these, but want to switch
to LEDs when those are gone.  The clips that
hold the bulbs
in on these fixtures have
failed, and they are riveted to
the masts.
 I found a PVC fitting that slides perfectly
into the fixture, holds the bulb securely.  I
drilled three
holes thru the fixtures and
thru the 1" ring of PVC and
secured
them with small stainless bolts and lock nuts.
 Looks great and saved me having to replace
the
fixtures.
 KentSM
243Kristy

Sent from my
iPhone
On May 31,
2015, at
3:38 PM, sailormon kimberlite@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote: 
Steve,Which bulb did
you
use?Fair
WindsEricKimberlite Amel Super
Maramu #376  From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]

Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014
8:35
AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners]
Supermaramu Mizzen Spotlight   I've
installed these on a
number of boats in the
last few years and everyone is happy
with
them: 4
1/2" Sealed Beam Replacement
LED Spreader Lamp
Bulb       4
1/2" Sealed
Beam Replacement LED
Spreader Lamp
BulbThese are drop-in
waterproof
(IP65) LED replacements bulbs
designed to replace 4.5"
(4-3/8")
glass sealed-beams (tractor bulbs) in existing
fixtures, and they
serio...View
on
store.marinebeam.comPreview by
Yahoo  Steve
LeedsCircumnavigator's Yacht
Service, Inc.MACCABEESharki
#121 On Monday, October 13,
2014 7:33 AM, "'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@...
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:  
We
have recently replace this and found $5.99
generic brand at
the best price: http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/nw012104/GE4505UNIT24640.htm I
would imagine Europe would also have a discount
internet
bulb supplier.  Best
regards, Mark SM2K
#275www.creampuff.us   From:
amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]

Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014
10:23
AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Supermaramu
Mizzen Spotlight  
Hi
everyone,
  As with most SM's ( and
maybe 54s ?) I have
spotlights on my main
and mizzen
masts. The bulbs
are both Sealed Beam, GE 4505 28v
50w.I rarely use
these lights.
In 14 years I have not changed the bulb on the
main ....but the mizzen bulb burns out at the
least use. I
must have replaced 5 or 6, and
they are a crazy
price.Has anyone
else experienced this issue? Any suggestions as
to the
cause?  As they are designed for
aircraft and rated at 28v
they should be
easily rugged enough .It defies logic to
think that for that bulb alone there is somehow
more than 28
volts being delivered.  Has
anyone
found an LED bulb that fits the same
holder
? Ian and
Judy, Pen
Azen, SM 302, Corfu,
Greece   










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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower

karkauai
 

Hi Eric, yes, I got the pics, thanks.
Look farther down in the files section under "KitIsolationYanmar" for some reason the file didn't post in the folder.  I'll try to fix that when I get the isolation completed and post more pics and description.  Should be done next week.
Kent


On Jul 8, 2015, at 12:06 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent

The link did not open and I do not see it in the fils section.

Did you get my photos?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 8:24 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower

 

 

It's posted in the Files section, Eric. 

 

Kent


On Jul 6, 2015, at 4:06 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

Would you please send me a copy of the isolation schematics ?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 2:10 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower

 

 

The 12v alternator that came on my Yanmar110 has a ground wire, but it is grounded to the block.  I think I will be able to use it.  The 24v alternator that was in the old Volvo is also an isolated ground, but has been grounded to the non-isolated Yanmar ground wire thus far.  Once I get the harness built, install the new switches, senders, and solenoids, both alternators and the senders will be grounded back to the negative on the battery side of the solenoid.  The solenoid will make the connection of the engine block to the negative battery post only when the engine is cranked or when the STOP button is pushed.  When the engine is stopped or running, the connection is interrupted by the solenoid.

It'll make more sense when I get the isolation schematics to you.

Good luck,

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Jun 26, 2015, at 12:53 PM, Steve Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Kent. You are a wealth of knowledge on this subject, and a great resource for the group. I'm curious, is your alternator an isolated ground alternator? Also, what gadget do you have to measure hull potential, as I need one. I will admit that your experience has scared me a bit. 

 

On another subject, do you happen to know the pitch marks for your max prop? I've got the same prop, and suspect I'll need to adjust the pitch for the higher revving Yanmar. 

 

Steve and Liz

Aloha SM72





On Jun 26, 2015, at 12:36, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

It's my understanding that it shouldn't cause a problem unless there is a fault in the engine's electrical system.  If there is, it can eat up your zincs almost overnight, then start working on the CDrive.

In my case I hauled out to paint the bottom, and discovered the prop zinc gone and rudder zincs almost gone.  While changing the prop shaft seals I discovered the shaft was about 1/3 eaten away as if a blow torch had been used on it.

I discovered a poorly installed charger/inverter that also had a fault, and poorly connected bonding system when I repowered with a Yanmar a few years ago.  I didn't understand the Amel grounding systems well enough at that time and the Yanmar was not isolated as Amel recommends.  I felt certain that the cause of my shaft problem was the charger/inverter and/or poorly bonded CDrive after re powering. 

 Isolating the new Yanmar is more complicated than it should be, and all hull potential readings were normal, so I elected to do the isolation later when I had all the necessary parts assembled.

 

After being back in the water only 5 weeks, I dove on the prop and discovered that the zincs were half gone.  This was in spite of all hull potential readings being in the "safe" range...but I never checked hull potential with the Yanmar or ONAN running.

When I get back to the boat next week, I expect to find a faulty alternator on the Yanmar.  If not, I'll let you know what I do find.  If that's what it is, the fault is grounded to the bonding system and would have destroyed my prop shaft again!

Before going back in the water I will have the Yanmar electrically isolated.

I will check hull potential monthly and weekly when on the dock with both the Yanmar and ONAN running,  the AC on, and the DC chargers running.

I won't stay connected to shore power unless I am on the boat.

 

I understand that the Amel system of isolating the bonding system from all AC and DC systems is what is done with metal-hulled boats, but can't confirm that.  It makes a lot more sense to me that that ABYC system of connecting all AC and DC systems to the bonding system.  It's another way that Capn Amel has good reason for designing his boats as he did.  Don't make changes without fully understanding why your boat is designed as it is.

 

More in a week or so!

Kent

SM243

Kristy



On Jun 26, 2015, at 11:19 AM, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Take a look at posts Kent has on this site. Not isolating the engine will over a very short time cause a issues with the Amel drive and engine. The old saying an once of prevention.    

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All

Capt Richard 

RP Yacht Brokerage

Newport RI 

We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's

Cell 603 767 5330


On Jun 26, 2015, at 07:51, alex.paquin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

So what would be the consequences on not isolating the engine ´s negative on all electrical sensors, actuators and alternators?

Alex Paquin

Simpatico Hull 94

Older Maramu 1981
Re: Autohelm ST7000 will not leave Standby

peacock@...
 

Hi Eamonn,

I believe everything you mentioned is correct. The EV1, which is inertial and not magnetic, does replace the fluxgate; it can be placed anywhere in the boat. The 400 is necessary for a boat the size of a SM.

That said, the entire system is sitting in my car; I will be installing it this week, and let you know for sure.

Tom Peacock
Aletes SM2K 240
Re: Autohelm ST7000 will not leave Standby

eamonn.washington@...
 

Hi

many thanks for all of the tips.  I will try these options in the short term (next weeks), and I will probably get in a local marine electronics workman if I can't fix it myself.  In the medium term, I will install a new system after visiting a couple of boat shows in the Autumn.  In any case I will post back here the cause of the problem when I know it.

For the replacement system from Raymarine, I saw in this thread and others that EV400 is referred to.  On Raymarines website I see:
 - EV1 (the sensor, 12V, dia. 140mm, 0.29kg)
 - ACU 400 (12v or 24v, 30A, clutch connection 4A, 12/24V) [Actuator Control Unit]
 - P70 (cockpit display and controls)
Is this the combination you mean when EV400 is mentioned?  Also, does the EV1 sensor replace the fluxgate compass?  How suitable is this equipment for a Super Maramu? 

Thanks
Eamonn
SM #151, St Raphael, France
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Supermaramu Mizzen Spotlight

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi Guys,

I must have deleted the posting of the source of the LED bulbs.

Please advise.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2015 9:08 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Supermaramu Mizzen Spotlight

 

 

Good morning Kent & Eric,

Just for info:
For the cockpit I use the 13 Watt 60 degree and it is extremely bright.
It is excellent for “work”, but too much for dinner. I might add a little filter to make it more romantic.
So for dinner I simply use the dodger light (which I replace with LED).

I have the same (13 Watt 60 degree) for the main but have not installed yet, so can’t give an opinion if the angle is too wide, etc.
Will try to do install it this coming week.

Sincerely, Alexandre
Sm2K #289 NIKIMAT
Taino Beach, Grand Bahama

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 5/31/15, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Supermaramu Mizzen Spotlight
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Sunday, May 31, 2015, 5:53 PM


 









Kent,Based upon your
description I guess you used the 13 watt units. 30 degree
for the foredeck and 60 degrees for the
cockpit.That is the only bulb
that comes in 2 angles.Fair
WindsEricKimberlite Amel Super
Maramu #376    From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 6:46 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners]
Supermaramu Mizzen Spotlight    I'm not on the boat for a
few weeks, but I have the model numbers for the mast-mounted
deck and cockpit lights.  The cockpit lite has a wider beam
(more like a flood) and the forward deck lite has a
narrower beam (more of a spot light).I still have a couple of
spares of incandescent bulbs for these, but want to switch
to LEDs when those are gone.  The clips that hold the bulbs
in on these fixtures have failed, and they are riveted to
the masts.  I found a PVC fitting that slides perfectly
into the fixture, holds the bulb securely.  I drilled three
holes thru the fixtures and thru the 1" ring of PVC and
secured them with small stainless bolts and lock nuts.
 Looks great and saved me having to replace the
fixtures.
 KentSM 243Kristy


On May 31,
2015, at 3:38 PM, sailormon kimberlite@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote: 
Steve,Which bulb did you
use?Fair
WindsEricKimberlite Amel Super
Maramu #376  From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]

Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 8:35
AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners]
Supermaramu Mizzen Spotlight   I've installed these on a
number of boats in the last few years and everyone is happy
with them: 4
1/2" Sealed Beam Replacement LED Spreader Lamp
Bulb       4 1/2" Sealed
Beam Replacement LED Spreader Lamp
BulbThese are drop-in waterproof
(IP65) LED replacements bulbs designed to replace 4.5"
(4-3/8") glass sealed-beams (tractor bulbs) in existing
fixtures, and they
serio...View on
store.marinebeam.comPreview by
Yahoo  Steve
LeedsCircumnavigator's Yacht
Service, Inc.MACCABEESharki
#121 On Monday, October 13,
2014 7:33 AM, "'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@...
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:  
We
have recently replace this and found $5.99 generic brand at
the best price: http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/nw012104/GE4505UNIT24640.htm I
would imagine Europe would also have a discount internet
bulb supplier.  Best
regards, Mark SM2K
#275www.creampuff.us   From:
amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]

Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 10:23
AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Supermaramu
Mizzen Spotlight  
Hi everyone,
  As with most SM's ( and maybe 54s ?) I have
spotlights on my main and mizzen
masts. The bulbs
are both Sealed Beam, GE 4505 28v
50w.I rarely use
these lights. In 14 years I have not changed the bulb on the
main ....but the mizzen bulb burns out at the least use. I
must have replaced 5 or 6, and they are a crazy
price.Has anyone
else experienced this issue? Any suggestions as to the
cause?  As they are designed for aircraft and rated at 28v
they should be easily rugged enough .It defies logic to
think that for that bulb alone there is somehow more than 28
volts being delivered.  Has anyone
found an LED bulb that fits the same holder
? Ian and
Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Corfu,
Greece   










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#yiv0428987125

Water maker

gegcarter@...
 

I also have a problem with my water-maker, which is the 50l/hr Dessalator unit.  It's probably down to neglect. 

When we bought GUMA the water-maker worked (although when Olivier, who did the survey, offered me the sample to drink I did think it smelled a bit of eggs...).  Then followed two years where we were frequently in marinas where good quality water was available and so the water-maker was not required ... or used.  Such was my ignorance. 

'Use it or lose it', I have been told - too late, inevitably.

So at the end of last year I tried making some water for the first time, really, since buying the boat:
  • The sampling tube on the control panel did not produce any water.  I had my sample anyway as I had disconnected the outlet feed from the water-maker to the tank, to protect both the tank and its existing content from contamination, having been told not to trust the 'good / bad' sensor on the control panel and remembering the eggy smell. 
  • The water emerging from the feed tube was super-eggy!  It tasted OK, but the smell was bad. 
I was advised that there was probably microbial contamination on the membranes and that I should pickle them for a while.  So I acquired some steriliser and, following the instructions in the multi-lingual brochure from Dessalator, infused the device with it.  That was just before spending 4 months in Licata marina for the winter 2014/15. 

As soon as we were in clean seas this season I tried the water-maker again. Rinsing with fresh water, then switching the valve back to seawater and following the instructions:
  • The water maker seemed to be acting normally, and I increased the pressure. 
  • Nothing from the sampling pipe (as expected from before)
  • Nothing from the feed pipe to the tanks - which I had again removed to collect whatever was made. 
  • Then the device switched itself off - maybe due to excess pressure (I was in the engine room observing proceedings from there - mechanically everything looked fine). 
On subsequent attempts to run the water-maker the device seems not to generate any pressure.  Running on 'open', water is pumped through the system and out through the hull.  On increasing the pressure valve by turning clockwise there is very little response on the gauge, little action in the manometer tube, and, at high pressure settings, no discernable water being ejected through the hull skin fitting. Needless to say, no water from the reservoir feed-tube either. 

It seems to me that the pump cannot be generating pressure - or a protective sensor is stopping it (but not switching off the pump).  

Any thoughts on what has happened, why, and what I should do about it? 

Keith
SY GUMA
Currently in Thasos, N Greece.
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi Kent

The link did not open and I do not see it in the fils section.

Did you get my photos?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 8:24 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower

 

 

It's posted in the Files section, Eric. 

 

Kent


On Jul 6, 2015, at 4:06 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

Would you please send me a copy of the isolation schematics ?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 2:10 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower

 

 

The 12v alternator that came on my Yanmar110 has a ground wire, but it is grounded to the block.  I think I will be able to use it.  The 24v alternator that was in the old Volvo is also an isolated ground, but has been grounded to the non-isolated Yanmar ground wire thus far.  Once I get the harness built, install the new switches, senders, and solenoids, both alternators and the senders will be grounded back to the negative on the battery side of the solenoid.  The solenoid will make the connection of the engine block to the negative battery post only when the engine is cranked or when the STOP button is pushed.  When the engine is stopped or running, the connection is interrupted by the solenoid.

It'll make more sense when I get the isolation schematics to you.

Good luck,

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Jun 26, 2015, at 12:53 PM, Steve Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Kent. You are a wealth of knowledge on this subject, and a great resource for the group. I'm curious, is your alternator an isolated ground alternator? Also, what gadget do you have to measure hull potential, as I need one. I will admit that your experience has scared me a bit. 

 

On another subject, do you happen to know the pitch marks for your max prop? I've got the same prop, and suspect I'll need to adjust the pitch for the higher revving Yanmar. 

 

Steve and Liz

Aloha SM72





On Jun 26, 2015, at 12:36, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

It's my understanding that it shouldn't cause a problem unless there is a fault in the engine's electrical system.  If there is, it can eat up your zincs almost overnight, then start working on the CDrive.

In my case I hauled out to paint the bottom, and discovered the prop zinc gone and rudder zincs almost gone.  While changing the prop shaft seals I discovered the shaft was about 1/3 eaten away as if a blow torch had been used on it.

I discovered a poorly installed charger/inverter that also had a fault, and poorly connected bonding system when I repowered with a Yanmar a few years ago.  I didn't understand the Amel grounding systems well enough at that time and the Yanmar was not isolated as Amel recommends.  I felt certain that the cause of my shaft problem was the charger/inverter and/or poorly bonded CDrive after re powering. 

 Isolating the new Yanmar is more complicated than it should be, and all hull potential readings were normal, so I elected to do the isolation later when I had all the necessary parts assembled.

 

After being back in the water only 5 weeks, I dove on the prop and discovered that the zincs were half gone.  This was in spite of all hull potential readings being in the "safe" range...but I never checked hull potential with the Yanmar or ONAN running.

When I get back to the boat next week, I expect to find a faulty alternator on the Yanmar.  If not, I'll let you know what I do find.  If that's what it is, the fault is grounded to the bonding system and would have destroyed my prop shaft again!

Before going back in the water I will have the Yanmar electrically isolated.

I will check hull potential monthly and weekly when on the dock with both the Yanmar and ONAN running,  the AC on, and the DC chargers running.

I won't stay connected to shore power unless I am on the boat.

 

I understand that the Amel system of isolating the bonding system from all AC and DC systems is what is done with metal-hulled boats, but can't confirm that.  It makes a lot more sense to me that that ABYC system of connecting all AC and DC systems to the bonding system.  It's another way that Capn Amel has good reason for designing his boats as he did.  Don't make changes without fully understanding why your boat is designed as it is.

 

More in a week or so!

Kent

SM243

Kristy



On Jun 26, 2015, at 11:19 AM, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Take a look at posts Kent has on this site. Not isolating the engine will over a very short time cause a issues with the Amel drive and engine. The old saying an once of prevention.    

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All

Capt Richard 

RP Yacht Brokerage

Newport RI 

We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's

Cell 603 767 5330


On Jun 26, 2015, at 07:51, alex.paquin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

So what would be the consequences on not isolating the engine ´s negative on all electrical sensors, actuators and alternators?

Alex Paquin

Simpatico Hull 94

Older Maramu 1981
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive

tango708@...
 

Oliver, Thank you very much for your help.  I do have mechanics working with me on the project.  I did not find the photo's you referenced would you be kind enough to email them to me at wtstout at mac dot com?  With your and Kent's help I think we will get this done.  One sizing item I will mention is the shaft diam on my boat is 35mm.  I am using a Vetus Type 6, KO53 flex coupling which is for a 35 mm shaft.

Best Regards,
Will Stout
Anni Bea True
SM180
Cape Charles Yacht Center waiting repairs
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi Olivier,

It has been a long time.

Would you please send me the photos to Kimberlite@....

Thank You,

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2015 3:20 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive

 

 

Hi Will,
yes it is possible to take down the shaft with bearings and gear from the top C-drive while the vessel is afloat. However, it may be difficult to remove the shaft because of aging.For removing the old shaft and installing the new one, I would recommend to take the top C-drive away.
Considering the C-drive is repaired, here is the procedure for alignment.-First use a fixed coupling (internal diameter 40 mm) to check that the shaft of the C-drive is centered with the Gear-box flange. the better is to have the fixed coupling (used as a tool) machined (see picture 2) in order it can be plugged into the gear-box flange's internal cylindric gap (see picture 1). If you still have the original gear-box (HURTH-ZF 250 mechanic) the flange will be slightly different. Picture 1 shows an hydraulic ZF-25 gear-box.-Install the fixed coupling on the C-drive shaft (with key) and bring the engine forward until they both come in touch. An off-centered shaft (C-drive) can be easily seen (picture 3). To correct this, you should adjust the height of the top C-drive by moving the bolts of the C-drive's mounts. You can adjust it of about 1mm without undoing the big rubber sleeve. If you need more, you should ease the hose clamps on the big rubber sleeve in order you can bring the top C-drive more upwards (or downwards). On the picture, the top C-drive needed to be moved of 2mm.-once both shaft are centered and the male part of the fixed coupling enters the female part of the gear-box flange, you have to check if both flanges are parallel, using calibrated shims of 0.1mm. You should be able to adjust the space between both flanges to 0.0 mm, by moving the top C-drive sideways. If this is not enough, you'll have to widen the holes in the cradle where the engine supports bolts fit.-once the slack between both flanges is 0.0mm, tighten the top C-drive mounts and mark the position of the engine supports onto the cradle-move the engine back again and install the new flex coupling on the C-drive shaft, then bring the engine back forward to the marks. Tighten the engine. Check the slack again between the flex coupling and the gear-box flange. Then tighten the coupling.
I don't know your skills, if you're going to do it yourself. But I stress on the fact that you should have this job done by a trustable mechanic company.
If you still feel vibrations that increase with the rpm, the alignment is still not good. Do it again...If it's really impossible to adjust, the prop will have to be checked for balance. You could also try your spare fixed prop (supplied originally).
I will be travelling for the next days but should be able to reach my e-mails. Feel free to ask for more details.Tell me if you get the pictures.
Good luck.
Olivier

On Tuesday, July 7, 2015 2:41 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


  Hi again Will,I'm sure that Olivier will give you good advice on alignment.  If they didn't put new motor mounts when the prior owner repowered, I would certainly do that.  If they used new mounts that were the same as the old ones installed with the Volvo, they are significantly undersized for your new engine.  That could be the source of your vibration/shaft failure.When I repowered with the 4JH4HTE, new shims were made of cylindrical steel about 1 1/4 inch outside diameter with a center hole large enough for the bolts that hold the engine on the angle iron "beds".  The aft ones are longer than the foreword ones.  If needed I can measure them, but I suspect each boat is a little different.The new mounts had different hole configuration where they rest on the stringer.  In the stringers about 3" from the surface is an embedded steel plate that has to be drilled and tapped for the new mounts.  There was a hump in the stringers that the engine mounts rest on where the forward mounts were added that had to be ground down to get a solid fit.  I'm in Deltaville, VA for another couple of weeks if you want to drive up and see the installation.You can reach me at karkauai at yahoo dot comOr call my cell at 828-234-6819.KentSM243Kristy


On Jul 6, 2015, at 6:09 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

  Hi Kent, and thanks for the info.  I did take a look at your photo's.  I was under the impression for some reason that the larger part of the shaft was drilled/tooled and a new shaft (35mm on my boat) was made and pressed into the larger portion of the shaft and then welded into place.  However, I understand now that the larger shaft was tooled down to 35mm and shortened 4-5mm and a collar made to fit over the joint that was welded into place.  Questions: 1) Did you have to pull the c-drive or were you able to remove the shaft from the engine room. 2)  Would you mind sketching for me what you did to effect the repairs and take a photo of the sketch with your phone and email or text to me.  I want to make sure I understand exactly what you did in order to duplicate it.   I think you have my phone number from our last conversation 206 841 9556.

Thank You,
Will Stout
Anni Bea True
SM 180
Cape Charles Yacht Center waiting repairs. #yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925 -- #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp #yiv6046387925hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp #yiv6046387925ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp .yiv6046387925ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp .yiv6046387925ad p {margin:0;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp .yiv6046387925ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-sponsor #yiv6046387925ygrp-lc {font-family:Arial;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-sponsor #yiv6046387925ygrp-lc #yiv6046387925hd {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-sponsor #yiv6046387925ygrp-lc .yiv6046387925ad 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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive

Olivier Beaute
 

Hi Will,
yes it is possible to take down the shaft with bearings and gear from the top C-drive while the vessel is afloat. However, it may be difficult to remove the shaft because of aging.For removing the old shaft and installing the new one, I would recommend to take the top C-drive away.
Considering the C-drive is repaired, here is the procedure for alignment.-First use a fixed coupling (internal diameter 40 mm) to check that the shaft of the C-drive is centered with the Gear-box flange. the better is to have the fixed coupling (used as a tool) machined (see picture 2) in order it can be plugged into the gear-box flange's internal cylindric gap (see picture 1). If you still have the original gear-box (HURTH-ZF 250 mechanic) the flange will be slightly different. Picture 1 shows an hydraulic ZF-25 gear-box.-Install the fixed coupling on the C-drive shaft (with key) and bring the engine forward until they both come in touch. An off-centered shaft (C-drive) can be easily seen (picture 3). To correct this, you should adjust the height of the top C-drive by moving the bolts of the C-drive's mounts. You can adjust it of about 1mm without undoing the big rubber sleeve. If you need more, you should ease the hose clamps on the big rubber sleeve in order you can bring the top C-drive more upwards (or downwards). On the picture, the top C-drive needed to be moved of 2mm.-once both shaft are centered and the male part of the fixed coupling enters the female part of the gear-box flange, you have to check if both flanges are parallel, using calibrated shims of 0.1mm. You should be able to adjust the space between both flanges to 0.0 mm, by moving the top C-drive sideways. If this is not enough, you'll have to widen the holes in the cradle where the engine supports bolts fit.-once the slack between both flanges is 0.0mm, tighten the top C-drive mounts and mark the position of the engine supports onto the cradle-move the engine back again and install the new flex coupling on the C-drive shaft, then bring the engine back forward to the marks. Tighten the engine. Check the slack again between the flex coupling and the gear-box flange. Then tighten the coupling.
I don't know your skills, if you're going to do it yourself. But I stress on the fact that you should have this job done by a trustable mechanic company.
If you still feel vibrations that increase with the rpm, the alignment is still not good. Do it again...If it's really impossible to adjust, the prop will have to be checked for balance. You could also try your spare fixed prop (supplied originally).
I will be travelling for the next days but should be able to reach my e-mails. Feel free to ask for more details.Tell me if you get the pictures.
Good luck.
Olivier

On Tuesday, July 7, 2015 2:41 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


  Hi again Will,I'm sure that Olivier will give you good advice on alignment.  If they didn't put new motor mounts when the prior owner repowered, I would certainly do that.  If they used new mounts that were the same as the old ones installed with the Volvo, they are significantly undersized for your new engine.  That could be the source of your vibration/shaft failure.When I repowered with the 4JH4HTE, new shims were made of cylindrical steel about 1 1/4 inch outside diameter with a center hole large enough for the bolts that hold the engine on the angle iron "beds".  The aft ones are longer than the foreword ones.  If needed I can measure them, but I suspect each boat is a little different.The new mounts had different hole configuration where they rest on the stringer.  In the stringers about 3" from the surface is an embedded steel plate that has to be drilled and tapped for the new mounts.  There was a hump in the stringers that the engine mounts rest on where the forward mounts were added that had to be ground down to get a solid fit.  I'm in Deltaville, VA for another couple of weeks if you want to drive up and see the installation.You can reach me at karkauai at yahoo dot comOr call my cell at 828-234-6819.KentSM243Kristy
On Jul 6, 2015, at 6:09 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

  Hi Kent, and thanks for the info.  I did take a look at your photo's.  I was under the impression for some reason that the larger part of the shaft was drilled/tooled and a new shaft (35mm on my boat) was made and pressed into the larger portion of the shaft and then welded into place.  However, I understand now that the larger shaft was tooled down to 35mm and shortened 4-5mm and a collar made to fit over the joint that was welded into place.  Questions: 1) Did you have to pull the c-drive or were you able to remove the shaft from the engine room. 2)  Would you mind sketching for me what you did to effect the repairs and take a photo of the sketch with your phone and email or text to me.  I want to make sure I understand exactly what you did in order to duplicate it.   I think you have my phone number from our last conversation 206 841 9556.

Thank You,
Will Stout
Anni Bea True
SM 180
Cape Charles Yacht Center waiting repairs. #yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925 -- #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp #yiv6046387925hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp #yiv6046387925ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp .yiv6046387925ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp .yiv6046387925ad p {margin:0;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp .yiv6046387925ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-sponsor #yiv6046387925ygrp-lc {font-family:Arial;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-sponsor #yiv6046387925ygrp-lc #yiv6046387925hd {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-sponsor #yiv6046387925ygrp-lc .yiv6046387925ad 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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive

karkauai
 

Hi again Will,
I'm sure that Olivier will give you good advice on alignment.  If they didn't put new motor mounts when the prior owner repowered, I would certainly do that.  If they used new mounts that were the same as the old ones installed with the Volvo, they are significantly undersized for your new engine.  That could be the source of your vibration/shaft failure.
When I repowered with the 4JH4HTE, new shims were made of cylindrical steel about 1 1/4 inch outside diameter with a center hole large enough for the bolts that hold the engine on the angle iron "beds".  The aft ones are longer than the foreword ones.  If needed I can measure them, but I suspect each boat is a little different.
The new mounts had different hole configuration where they rest on the stringer.  In the stringers about 3" from the surface is an embedded steel plate that has to be drilled and tapped for the new mounts.  There was a hump in the stringers that the engine mounts rest on where the forward mounts were added that had to be ground down to get a solid fit.  I'm in Deltaville, VA for another couple of weeks if you want to drive up and see the installation.
You can reach me at karkauai at yahoo dot com
Or call my cell at 828-234-6819.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jul 6, 2015, at 6:09 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent, and thanks for the info.  I did take a look at your photo's.  I was under the impression for some reason that the larger part of the shaft was drilled/tooled and a new shaft (35mm on my boat) was made and pressed into the larger portion of the shaft and then welded into place.  However, I understand now that the larger shaft was tooled down to 35mm and shortened 4-5mm and a collar made to fit over the joint that was welded into place.  Questions: 1) Did you have to pull the c-drive or were you able to remove the shaft from the engine room. 2)  Would you mind sketching for me what you did to effect the repairs and take a photo of the sketch with your phone and email or text to me.  I want to make sure I understand exactly what you did in order to duplicate it.   I think you have my phone number from our last conversation 206 841 9556.

Thank You,
Will Stout
Anni Bea True
SM 180
Cape Charles Yacht Center waiting repairs.
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

karkauai
 

karkauai at yahoo dot com
Kent


On Jul 6, 2015, at 3:41 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

I can get 3400+ rpm out of the engine with the autoprop.

I have a photo of the packing nut wrench I had made as well as the block that is at the end of my mizzen boom.

Please send me your email address.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 8:19 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

 

 

I think I can adjust my MaxProp one more click and still get 3000+ rpm,  I'll do that before going back in the water and see what happens.

Kent


On Jul 5, 2015, at 9:44 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent ,

I get about 7+ knots at 2200 and about 9 at 3000.

I have the same engine with an autoprop.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2015 9:04 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

 

 

My Volvo never got to maximum rpm until I re-propped, but after re-propping with a prop that was sized and pitched according to a prop shop in Norfolk, it did 7.5 kts at 2800rpm on flat water.  With my 110 Yanmar it does 8.3 kts at 3000rpm on flat water.  Not really significant since I don't run it that hard when motoring or motor sailing while cruising.  At 2200 rpm it pushes the boat at about 6 kts.

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Jun 25, 2015, at 6:44 PM, 'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Question to all SM owners

Whats the different between 80 hp and 110 hp

Max Speed for SM is ca 8.5 kn

Independent how much power, the power on the Prop is Important 

I have this speed with clean  boat/Propeller with the Perkins 80 hp Turbo (1990, 3000 h)

Hanspeter

SM 16 Tamango 2

Göcek, Tutkey

Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Am 25.06.2015 um 18:18 schrieb "Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Wise choice Steve..

 

JPG




On 25 Jun 2015, at 17:00, flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks for the info Chris. It looks like 80 hp is the way to go on our older boats due to the Cdrive issues.

Regards,
Steve and Liz
Aloha SM72
Photos posted-- primary winch base, stuffing box wrench, block at the end of the mizzen boom

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi ,

I just posted some photos to my file Kimberlite.

They are at the end if you look in date order.

Sorry but I do not know how to add a title to the photos.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 
Re: C-Drive

tango708@...
 

Hi Oliver, And thanks for the  good advise.  The flex coupling was replaced by a company, Moxey Marine in Charlestson and little or no attention was paid to the C-Drive.  That said my boat had only 50 hours on a new Yanmar HJ4H-HTE when I purchased and presently has about 300.  I have no idea of how many hours are on the C-Drive from the original Volvo.  

Assuming that I can have the shaft rebuilt hear in USA or purchase a top unit from Amel what is the procedure for aligning the engine with the shaft? 

Regards,
Will Stout
Anni Bea True
SM180
Cape Charles Yacht Center waiting repairs
45401 - 45420 of 67185