Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Peter, Please keep us posted so that we can all learn from it!
Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 7/6/15, peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Monday, July 6, 2015, 4:31 PM


 









Dear alexandreMany thanks
indeed. Hopefully will get the problem sorted tomorrow. Have
a mechanic dealing with it in the yard and think the problem
is people pinpointed Kind
regardsPeterPURE MAGICSM
433
On 6 Jul
2015, at 16:06, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
















 






Good afternoon Peter,



Might be a good idea to start /restart a new topic for
this…. I renamed my answer: "RED LIGHT ON WATER
MAKER" for you.



After I had my water maker serviced (including a new high
pressure sensor), I start it up then briefly after had the
red light and it stopped

The high pressure had to be adjusted. so that it stops the
system only when reading the red zone.

http://nikimat.com/water_maker_duo_d60.html



Did you had your water maker serviced? Including a new high
pressure sensor? If yes, then I guess the high pressure
sensor needs to be adjusted.



To get help, you need to write which model of Dessalator you
have… and hopefully some more experience owner can help
you.



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Grand Bahama.



--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 7/6/15, peter killen peterkillen@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:



Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive

To: "amelyachtowners@..."
<amelyachtowners@...>

Date: Monday, July 6, 2015, 1:32 PM





 



















Excuse me cropping up under this subject.

I have just this morning launched pure magic and turned
on

the watermaker. It worked for a minute or so then the
red

light went on and it has not worked since We

have checked all the hoses ect but nothing seems

wrongHas anybody got any ideas what could be the

fault?It was winterised and was

perfect Is there a feed pump from the main

seawater  inlet prior to the high pressure

pump?

PeterSM 433 Pure

MagicCurrently in Halifax 
On 6 Jul 2015, at 09:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@...

[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>

wrote:

































 













Hi Will.That happened on my

boat a few years ago.  The break was where the diameter
of

the shaft stepped down.  A machinist in Puerto Rico
turned

the larger diameter part  on his lathe 4-5 cms from the

break to the same diameter as the smaller diameter part,

then welded a collar of about 7-8 mm thickness over both

ends.  All agreed it was stronger than the original.

 There are pics of the broken and repaired shaft in a
photo

folder named "Amel SM Transmission/CDrive".
 Not

sure why they are interspersed with other pics, but
there

are 4 or 5 pics.

I was

told that Amel doesn't like to sell only one part of
the

CDrive because of the gears perhaps being slightly
different

( they are made as a set).  If the gears all seem to be
in

good shape, the repair will save you a lot of money and

time.  And yes, the repair can be done without hauling
the

boat.

Hope that

helps.KentSM243Kristy



Sent from my

iPhone

On Jul 5, 2015, at 11:16

PM, tango708@...

[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>

wrote:

































 













Oliver,

Thanks again sorry that I

was silent for a few days... we had the flex coupling

repaired in Charleston, SC and were underway again.  
The

second day we made Beaufort and the following day
departed

Beaufort for Cape Charles.  However, about 4 hours
after

departing Beaufort the drive shaft between the new
coupling

and the c-drive broke.  Does anyone on the forum have
any

advise regarding replacing this shaft?  The prop turns

freely and the engine and transmission seem to be
working

normally.  My C-Drive looks like it can be accessed
from

inside the engine room without removing the entire
unit. 

Does anyone have the spec's for the shaft?  Type of

steel etc.  I know that it is 35 mm.  The replacement
flex

coupling is a Vetus Type 6, KO53 (i.e. 35mm)





Regards,

Will Stout,

Anni Bea True

SM180







































































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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER

peter killen <peterkillen@...>
 

Dear alexandre
Many thanks indeed. Hopefully will get the problem sorted tomorrow. Have a mechanic dealing with it in the yard and think the problem is people pinpointed 
Kind regards
Peter
PURE MAGIC
SM 433


On 6 Jul 2015, at 16:06, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good afternoon Peter,

Might be a good idea to start /restart a new topic for this…. I renamed my answer: "RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER" for you.

After I had my water maker serviced (including a new high pressure sensor), I start it up then briefly after had the red light and it stopped
The high pressure had to be adjusted. so that it stops the system only when reading the red zone.
http://nikimat.com/water_maker_duo_d60.html

Did you had your water maker serviced? Including a new high pressure sensor? If yes, then I guess the high pressure sensor needs to be adjusted.

To get help, you need to write which model of Dessalator you have… and hopefully some more experience owner can help you.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Grand Bahama.

--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 7/6/15, peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Monday, July 6, 2015, 1:32 PM


 









Excuse me cropping up under this subject.
I have just this morning launched pure magic and turned on
the watermaker. It worked for a minute or so then the red
light went on and it has not worked since We
have checked all the hoses ect but nothing seems
wrongHas anybody got any ideas what could be the
fault?It was winterised and was
perfect Is there a feed pump from the main
seawater  inlet prior to the high pressure
pump?
PeterSM 433 Pure
MagicCurrently in Halifax 


On 6 Jul 2015, at 09:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
















 






Hi Will.That happened on my
boat a few years ago.  The break was where the diameter of
the shaft stepped down.  A machinist in Puerto Rico turned
the larger diameter part  on his lathe 4-5 cms from the
break to the same diameter as the smaller diameter part,
then welded a collar of about 7-8 mm thickness over both
ends.  All agreed it was stronger than the original.
 There are pics of the broken and repaired shaft in a photo
folder named "Amel SM Transmission/CDrive".  Not
sure why they are interspersed with other pics, but there
are 4 or 5 pics.
I was
told that Amel doesn't like to sell only one part of the
CDrive because of the gears perhaps being slightly different
( they are made as a set).  If the gears all seem to be in
good shape, the repair will save you a lot of money and
time.  And yes, the repair can be done without hauling the
boat.
Hope that
helps.KentSM243Kristy

Sent from my
iPhone
On Jul 5, 2015, at 11:16
PM, tango708@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
















 






Oliver,
Thanks again sorry that I
was silent for a few days... we had the flex coupling
repaired in Charleston, SC and were underway again.   The
second day we made Beaufort and the following day departed
Beaufort for Cape Charles.  However, about 4 hours after
departing Beaufort the drive shaft between the new coupling
and the c-drive broke.  Does anyone on the forum have any
advise regarding replacing this shaft?  The prop turns
freely and the engine and transmission seem to be working
normally.  My C-Drive looks like it can be accessed from
inside the engine room without removing the entire unit. 
Does anyone have the spec's for the shaft?  Type of
steel etc.  I know that it is 35 mm.  The replacement flex
coupling is a Vetus Type 6, KO53 (i.e. 35mm)


Regards,
Will Stout,
Anni Bea True
SM180



































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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Kent,

If my memory serves me correctly the Tach gets its info from a sender that works in conjunction with the flywheel.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 8:34 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

 

 

Not exactly sure yet Eric, getting with electrician today.  Because the tach gets its info from the alternator, it may be more complicated than the 4JH3 that gets its info from the shaft (?or cam?).  I'll let you know when I figure it out.

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Jul 6, 2015, at 4:21 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi ,

Our Yanmar came with VDO gauges separate from the main engine panel.

Each sender and gauge is isolated ground .

How do you plan on isolating the Yanmar alternator?

I purchased a spare and after thinking about it I believe my spare is not isolated ground.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 11:13 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

 

 


Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /_Kit isolation Yanmar.pdf
Uploaded by : karkauai <karkauai@...>
Description : Schematic and photos from Amel that show how to electrically isolate the Yanmar 4JH4HTE. It requires making your own new wiring harness, isolated ground switches and senders for oil pressure and temperature cut-off and gauges, isolated ground alternator(s), diodes, and a solenoid in the negative wire between the block and the negative battery post. The isolated ground components are grounded back to the battery instead of being grounded to the block. The starter and stop solenoid cannot be isolated, so they operate via the solenoid when the engine is cranked or stop switch is compressed. As soon as the key is released to the "run" position, or the stop button is released, the solenoid opens the circuit so that the engine is no longer connected to the negative battery post.
The most difficult part of this project is finding the proper isolated ground senders and switches. Yanmar will not release the specs. You can get the numbers and thread sizes directly from the senders and switches (the numbers are stamped in the hex heads used to tighten them into the block), but they still have to be interpreted, and comparable isolated ground parts found. I will post this when I am certain that I have something that works.

You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/_Kit%20isolation%20Yanmar.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
https://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?page=content&y=PROD_GRPS&locale=en_US&id=SLN15398

Regards,

karkauai <karkauai@...>


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Kent,

I can get 3400+ rpm out of the engine with the autoprop.

I have a photo of the packing nut wrench I had made as well as the block that is at the end of my mizzen boom.

Please send me your email address.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 8:19 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

 

 

I think I can adjust my MaxProp one more click and still get 3000+ rpm,  I'll do that before going back in the water and see what happens.

Kent


On Jul 5, 2015, at 9:44 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent ,

I get about 7+ knots at 2200 and about 9 at 3000.

I have the same engine with an autoprop.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2015 9:04 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

 

 

My Volvo never got to maximum rpm until I re-propped, but after re-propping with a prop that was sized and pitched according to a prop shop in Norfolk, it did 7.5 kts at 2800rpm on flat water.  With my 110 Yanmar it does 8.3 kts at 3000rpm on flat water.  Not really significant since I don't run it that hard when motoring or motor sailing while cruising.  At 2200 rpm it pushes the boat at about 6 kts.

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Jun 25, 2015, at 6:44 PM, 'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Question to all SM owners

Whats the different between 80 hp and 110 hp

Max Speed for SM is ca 8.5 kn

Independent how much power, the power on the Prop is Important 

I have this speed with clean  boat/Propeller with the Perkins 80 hp Turbo (1990, 3000 h)

Hanspeter

SM 16 Tamango 2

Göcek, Tutkey

Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Am 25.06.2015 um 18:18 schrieb "Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Wise choice Steve..

 

JPG




On 25 Jun 2015, at 17:00, flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks for the info Chris. It looks like 80 hp is the way to go on our older boats due to the Cdrive issues.

Regards,
Steve and Liz
Aloha SM72


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon Peter,

Might be a good idea to start /restart a new topic for this…. I renamed my answer: "RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER" for you.

After I had my water maker serviced (including a new high pressure sensor), I start it up then briefly after had the red light and it stopped
The high pressure had to be adjusted. so that it stops the system only when reading the red zone.
http://nikimat.com/water_maker_duo_d60.html

Did you had your water maker serviced? Including a new high pressure sensor? If yes, then I guess the high pressure sensor needs to be adjusted.

To get help, you need to write which model of Dessalator you have… and hopefully some more experience owner can help you.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Grand Bahama.


--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 7/6/15, peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Monday, July 6, 2015, 1:32 PM


 









Excuse me cropping up under this subject.
I have just this morning launched pure magic and turned on
the watermaker. It worked for a minute or so then the red
light went on and it has not worked since We
have checked all the hoses ect but nothing seems
wrongHas anybody got any ideas what could be the
fault?It was winterised and was
perfect Is there a feed pump from the main
seawater  inlet prior to the high pressure
pump?
PeterSM 433 Pure
MagicCurrently in Halifax 
On 6 Jul 2015, at 09:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
















 






Hi Will.That happened on my
boat a few years ago.  The break was where the diameter of
the shaft stepped down.  A machinist in Puerto Rico turned
the larger diameter part  on his lathe 4-5 cms from the
break to the same diameter as the smaller diameter part,
then welded a collar of about 7-8 mm thickness over both
ends.  All agreed it was stronger than the original.
 There are pics of the broken and repaired shaft in a photo
folder named "Amel SM Transmission/CDrive".  Not
sure why they are interspersed with other pics, but there
are 4 or 5 pics.
I was
told that Amel doesn't like to sell only one part of the
CDrive because of the gears perhaps being slightly different
( they are made as a set).  If the gears all seem to be in
good shape, the repair will save you a lot of money and
time.  And yes, the repair can be done without hauling the
boat.
Hope that
helps.KentSM243Kristy

Sent from my
iPhone
On Jul 5, 2015, at 11:16
PM, tango708@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
















 






Oliver,
Thanks again sorry that I
was silent for a few days... we had the flex coupling
repaired in Charleston, SC and were underway again.   The
second day we made Beaufort and the following day departed
Beaufort for Cape Charles.  However, about 4 hours after
departing Beaufort the drive shaft between the new coupling
and the c-drive broke.  Does anyone on the forum have any
advise regarding replacing this shaft?  The prop turns
freely and the engine and transmission seem to be working
normally.  My C-Drive looks like it can be accessed from
inside the engine room without removing the entire unit. 
Does anyone have the spec's for the shaft?  Type of
steel etc.  I know that it is 35 mm.  The replacement flex
coupling is a Vetus Type 6, KO53 (i.e. 35mm)


Regards,
Will Stout,
Anni Bea True
SM180



































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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive

peter killen <peterkillen@...>
 

Excuse me cropping up under this subject. I have just this morning launched pure magic and turned on the watermaker. It worked for a minute or so then the red light went on and it has not worked since 
We have checked all the hoses ect but nothing seems wrong
Has anybody got any ideas what could be the fault?
It was winterised and was perfect 
Is there a feed pump from the main seawater  inlet prior to the high pressure pump?

Peter
SM 433 Pure Magic
Currently in Halifax 


On 6 Jul 2015, at 09:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Will.
That happened on my boat a few years ago.  The break was where the diameter of the shaft stepped down.  A machinist in Puerto Rico turned the larger diameter part  on his lathe 4-5 cms from the break to the same diameter as the smaller diameter part, then welded a collar of about 7-8 mm thickness over both ends.  All agreed it was stronger than the original.  There are pics of the broken and repaired shaft in a photo folder named "Amel SM Transmission/CDrive".  Not sure why they are interspersed with other pics, but there are 4 or 5 pics.

I was told that Amel doesn't like to sell only one part of the CDrive because of the gears perhaps being slightly different ( they are made as a set).  If the gears all seem to be in good shape, the repair will save you a lot of money and time.  And yes, the repair can be done without hauling the boat.

Hope that helps.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jul 5, 2015, at 11:16 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Oliver,
Thanks again sorry that I was silent for a few days... we had the flex coupling repaired in Charleston, SC and were underway again.   The second day we made Beaufort and the following day departed Beaufort for Cape Charles.  However, about 4 hours after departing Beaufort the drive shaft between the new coupling and the c-drive broke.  Does anyone on the forum have any advise regarding replacing this shaft?  The prop turns freely and the engine and transmission seem to be working normally.  My C-Drive looks like it can be accessed from inside the engine room without removing the entire unit.  Does anyone have the spec's for the shaft?  Type of steel etc.  I know that it is 35 mm.  The replacement flex coupling is a Vetus Type 6, KO53 (i.e. 35mm)


Regards,
Will Stout,
Anni Bea True
SM180


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning

karkauai
 

Hi, Bill,
I've been doing some research about all this, and talking to the paint gurus here at Deltaville Boat Yard.

It seems that CopperCoat works extremely well in colder water like the NE USA and Mediterranean, but not so much in the tropics, where I'll be doing most of my sailing.

Micron66 is great paint for the tropics, but apparently doesn't do well in brackish water.  Here on the Chesapeake they put Micron 66 on a boat at the owner's request, and had to repaint in just a few months.  Interlux paid the bill for the prep and new paint job.  Since I'll be in brackish water for the next several months, I'm going to go with their recommended Pettit Ultima SR60.  When they have the old paint removed and the hull is dry enough, they'll put a coat of primer and two coats of paint.  I'll let you know how it does.

It turns out that SeaHawk Island 44, the tin-based paint is available almost everywhere but the US.  It's actually sold in the US but can only be applied to boats of 75ftLOA.  Most large ships and USNavy ships are painted with similar paints to avoid hauling out so often.  So us little boats are the least likely to be polluting with bottom paint, but are the only ones who can't buy it here. What a crock!  Gotta love the EPA.  If this Pettit paint doesn't last more than a couple years, I'll probably go elsewhere and have Island 44 put on again.

Steady as she goes.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

karkauai
 

Not exactly sure yet Eric, getting with electrician today.  Because the tach gets its info from the alternator, it may be more complicated than the 4JH3 that gets its info from the shaft (?or cam?).  I'll let you know when I figure it out.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jul 6, 2015, at 4:21 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi ,

Our Yanmar came with VDO gauges separate from the main engine panel.

Each sender and gauge is isolated ground .

How do you plan on isolating the Yanmar alternator?

I purchased a spare and after thinking about it I believe my spare is not isolated ground.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 11:13 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

 

 


Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /_Kit isolation Yanmar.pdf
Uploaded by : karkauai <karkauai@...>
Description : Schematic and photos from Amel that show how to electrically isolate the Yanmar 4JH4HTE. It requires making your own new wiring harness, isolated ground switches and senders for oil pressure and temperature cut-off and gauges, isolated ground alternator(s), diodes, and a solenoid in the negative wire between the block and the negative battery post. The isolated ground components are grounded back to the battery instead of being grounded to the block. The starter and stop solenoid cannot be isolated, so they operate via the solenoid when the engine is cranked or stop switch is compressed. As soon as the key is released to the "run" position, or the stop button is released, the solenoid opens the circuit so that the engine is no longer connected to the negative battery post.
The most difficult part of this project is finding the proper isolated ground senders and switches. Yanmar will not release the specs. You can get the numbers and thread sizes directly from the senders and switches (the numbers are stamped in the hex heads used to tighten them into the block), but they still have to be interpreted, and comparable isolated ground parts found. I will post this when I am certain that I have something that works.

You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/_Kit%20isolation%20Yanmar.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
https://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?page=content&y=PROD_GRPS&locale=en_US&id=SLN15398

Regards,

karkauai <karkauai@...>


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower

karkauai
 

On Jul 6, 2015, at 4:06 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

Would you please send me a copy of the isolation schematics ?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 2:10 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower

 

 

The 12v alternator that came on my Yanmar110 has a ground wire, but it is grounded to the block.  I think I will be able to use it.  The 24v alternator that was in the old Volvo is also an isolated ground, but has been grounded to the non-isolated Yanmar ground wire thus far.  Once I get the harness built, install the new switches, senders, and solenoids, both alternators and the senders will be grounded back to the negative on the battery side of the solenoid.  The solenoid will make the connection of the engine block to the negative battery post only when the engine is cranked or when the STOP button is pushed.  When the engine is stopped or running, the connection is interrupted by the solenoid.

It'll make more sense when I get the isolation schematics to you.

Good luck,

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Jun 26, 2015, at 12:53 PM, Steve Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Kent. You are a wealth of knowledge on this subject, and a great resource for the group. I'm curious, is your alternator an isolated ground alternator? Also, what gadget do you have to measure hull potential, as I need one. I will admit that your experience has scared me a bit. 

 

On another subject, do you happen to know the pitch marks for your max prop? I've got the same prop, and suspect I'll need to adjust the pitch for the higher revving Yanmar. 

 

Steve and Liz

Aloha SM72




On Jun 26, 2015, at 12:36, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

It's my understanding that it shouldn't cause a problem unless there is a fault in the engine's electrical system.  If there is, it can eat up your zincs almost overnight, then start working on the CDrive.

In my case I hauled out to paint the bottom, and discovered the prop zinc gone and rudder zincs almost gone.  While changing the prop shaft seals I discovered the shaft was about 1/3 eaten away as if a blow torch had been used on it.

I discovered a poorly installed charger/inverter that also had a fault, and poorly connected bonding system when I repowered with a Yanmar a few years ago.  I didn't understand the Amel grounding systems well enough at that time and the Yanmar was not isolated as Amel recommends.  I felt certain that the cause of my shaft problem was the charger/inverter and/or poorly bonded CDrive after re powering. 

 Isolating the new Yanmar is more complicated than it should be, and all hull potential readings were normal, so I elected to do the isolation later when I had all the necessary parts assembled.

 

After being back in the water only 5 weeks, I dove on the prop and discovered that the zincs were half gone.  This was in spite of all hull potential readings being in the "safe" range...but I never checked hull potential with the Yanmar or ONAN running.

When I get back to the boat next week, I expect to find a faulty alternator on the Yanmar.  If not, I'll let you know what I do find.  If that's what it is, the fault is grounded to the bonding system and would have destroyed my prop shaft again!

Before going back in the water I will have the Yanmar electrically isolated.

I will check hull potential monthly and weekly when on the dock with both the Yanmar and ONAN running,  the AC on, and the DC chargers running.

I won't stay connected to shore power unless I am on the boat.

 

I understand that the Amel system of isolating the bonding system from all AC and DC systems is what is done with metal-hulled boats, but can't confirm that.  It makes a lot more sense to me that that ABYC system of connecting all AC and DC systems to the bonding system.  It's another way that Capn Amel has good reason for designing his boats as he did.  Don't make changes without fully understanding why your boat is designed as it is.

 

More in a week or so!

Kent

SM243

Kristy



On Jun 26, 2015, at 11:19 AM, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Take a look at posts Kent has on this site. Not isolating the engine will over a very short time cause a issues with the Amel drive and engine. The old saying an once of prevention.    

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All

Capt Richard 

RP Yacht Brokerage

Newport RI 

We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's

Cell 603 767 5330


On Jun 26, 2015, at 07:51, alex.paquin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

So what would be the consequences on not isolating the engine ´s negative on all electrical sensors, actuators and alternators?

Alex Paquin

Simpatico Hull 94

Older Maramu 1981


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

karkauai
 

I think I can adjust my MaxProp one more click and still get 3000+ rpm,  I'll do that before going back in the water and see what happens.
Kent


On Jul 5, 2015, at 9:44 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent ,

I get about 7+ knots at 2200 and about 9 at 3000.

I have the same engine with an autoprop.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2015 9:04 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

 

 

My Volvo never got to maximum rpm until I re-propped, but after re-propping with a prop that was sized and pitched according to a prop shop in Norfolk, it did 7.5 kts at 2800rpm on flat water.  With my 110 Yanmar it does 8.3 kts at 3000rpm on flat water.  Not really significant since I don't run it that hard when motoring or motor sailing while cruising.  At 2200 rpm it pushes the boat at about 6 kts.

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Jun 25, 2015, at 6:44 PM, 'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Question to all SM owners

Whats the different between 80 hp and 110 hp

Max Speed for SM is ca 8.5 kn

Independent how much power, the power on the Prop is Important 

I have this speed with clean  boat/Propeller with the Perkins 80 hp Turbo (1990, 3000 h)

Hanspeter

SM 16 Tamango 2

Göcek, Tutkey

Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Am 25.06.2015 um 18:18 schrieb "Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Wise choice Steve..

 

JPG




On 25 Jun 2015, at 17:00, flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks for the info Chris. It looks like 80 hp is the way to go on our older boats due to the Cdrive issues.

Regards,
Steve and Liz
Aloha SM72


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive

karkauai
 

Hi Will.
That happened on my boat a few years ago.  The break was where the diameter of the shaft stepped down.  A machinist in Puerto Rico turned the larger diameter part  on his lathe 4-5 cms from the break to the same diameter as the smaller diameter part, then welded a collar of about 7-8 mm thickness over both ends.  All agreed it was stronger than the original.  There are pics of the broken and repaired shaft in a photo folder named "Amel SM Transmission/CDrive".  Not sure why they are interspersed with other pics, but there are 4 or 5 pics.

I was told that Amel doesn't like to sell only one part of the CDrive because of the gears perhaps being slightly different ( they are made as a set).  If the gears all seem to be in good shape, the repair will save you a lot of money and time.  And yes, the repair can be done without hauling the boat.

Hope that helps.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jul 5, 2015, at 11:16 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Oliver,
Thanks again sorry that I was silent for a few days... we had the flex coupling repaired in Charleston, SC and were underway again.   The second day we made Beaufort and the following day departed Beaufort for Cape Charles.  However, about 4 hours after departing Beaufort the drive shaft between the new coupling and the c-drive broke.  Does anyone on the forum have any advise regarding replacing this shaft?  The prop turns freely and the engine and transmission seem to be working normally.  My C-Drive looks like it can be accessed from inside the engine room without removing the entire unit.  Does anyone have the spec's for the shaft?  Type of steel etc.  I know that it is 35 mm.  The replacement flex coupling is a Vetus Type 6, KO53 (i.e. 35mm)


Regards,
Will Stout,
Anni Bea True
SM180


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Interior Wood Finishing

Mark Erdos
 

Nathan,



On my SM the interior wood is African Mahogany. It is finished with a
semi-gloss polyurethane.



As wood ages it will change color. Also, sunlight and damp effect the
coloration. I would suggest purchasing light, medium and dark mahogany
stains. Use trial and error with the mixes to try to match the color of your
wood. Remember it is easier to restrain and go darker. So, start with a
lighter color and build on it until you get the color you desire. Once the
color is good, coat with polyurethane. Ideally, if you can find a one-step
mix of polyurethane/stain such as Minwax Polyshade this is easiest to use. I
found that a mix of Mahogany and Pecan was very close. These are available
at Wal-Mart in the USA.

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/one-step-stain-and-finishes/minwax-polys
hades







With best regards,



Mark



Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently in Beaufort NC



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2015 11:22 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Interior Wood Finishing





Anyone have details on what was used to finish the interior wood of
Maramus? Comments on the Super Maramus welcome as it may be close enough.

I've got little patches to maintain including sun and salt air damage
(near head skylight), bulkhead dings and deck dings plus deck moisture
damage near the reefer leaving bare patches of wood.

-Nathan

Maramu #29


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi ,

Our Yanmar came with VDO gauges separate from the main engine panel.

Each sender and gauge is isolated ground .

How do you plan on isolating the Yanmar alternator?

I purchased a spare and after thinking about it I believe my spare is not isolated ground.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 11:13 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

 

 


Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /_Kit isolation Yanmar.pdf
Uploaded by : karkauai <karkauai@...>
Description : Schematic and photos from Amel that show how to electrically isolate the Yanmar 4JH4HTE. It requires making your own new wiring harness, isolated ground switches and senders for oil pressure and temperature cut-off and gauges, isolated ground alternator(s), diodes, and a solenoid in the negative wire between the block and the negative battery post. The isolated ground components are grounded back to the battery instead of being grounded to the block. The starter and stop solenoid cannot be isolated, so they operate via the solenoid when the engine is cranked or stop switch is compressed. As soon as the key is released to the "run" position, or the stop button is released, the solenoid opens the circuit so that the engine is no longer connected to the negative battery post.
The most difficult part of this project is finding the proper isolated ground senders and switches. Yanmar will not release the specs. You can get the numbers and thread sizes directly from the senders and switches (the numbers are stamped in the hex heads used to tighten them into the block), but they still have to be interpreted, and comparable isolated ground parts found. I will post this when I am certain that I have something that works.

You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/_Kit%20isolation%20Yanmar.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
https://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?page=content&y=PROD_GRPS&locale=en_US&id=SLN15398

Regards,

karkauai <karkauai@...>


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi Kent,

Would you please send me a copy of the isolation schematics ?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 2:10 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower

 

 

The 12v alternator that came on my Yanmar110 has a ground wire, but it is grounded to the block.  I think I will be able to use it.  The 24v alternator that was in the old Volvo is also an isolated ground, but has been grounded to the non-isolated Yanmar ground wire thus far.  Once I get the harness built, install the new switches, senders, and solenoids, both alternators and the senders will be grounded back to the negative on the battery side of the solenoid.  The solenoid will make the connection of the engine block to the negative battery post only when the engine is cranked or when the STOP button is pushed.  When the engine is stopped or running, the connection is interrupted by the solenoid.

It'll make more sense when I get the isolation schematics to you.

Good luck,

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Jun 26, 2015, at 12:53 PM, Steve Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Kent. You are a wealth of knowledge on this subject, and a great resource for the group. I'm curious, is your alternator an isolated ground alternator? Also, what gadget do you have to measure hull potential, as I need one. I will admit that your experience has scared me a bit. 

 

On another subject, do you happen to know the pitch marks for your max prop? I've got the same prop, and suspect I'll need to adjust the pitch for the higher revving Yanmar. 

 

Steve and Liz

Aloha SM72




On Jun 26, 2015, at 12:36, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

It's my understanding that it shouldn't cause a problem unless there is a fault in the engine's electrical system.  If there is, it can eat up your zincs almost overnight, then start working on the CDrive.

In my case I hauled out to paint the bottom, and discovered the prop zinc gone and rudder zincs almost gone.  While changing the prop shaft seals I discovered the shaft was about 1/3 eaten away as if a blow torch had been used on it.

I discovered a poorly installed charger/inverter that also had a fault, and poorly connected bonding system when I repowered with a Yanmar a few years ago.  I didn't understand the Amel grounding systems well enough at that time and the Yanmar was not isolated as Amel recommends.  I felt certain that the cause of my shaft problem was the charger/inverter and/or poorly bonded CDrive after re powering. 

 Isolating the new Yanmar is more complicated than it should be, and all hull potential readings were normal, so I elected to do the isolation later when I had all the necessary parts assembled.

 

After being back in the water only 5 weeks, I dove on the prop and discovered that the zincs were half gone.  This was in spite of all hull potential readings being in the "safe" range...but I never checked hull potential with the Yanmar or ONAN running.

When I get back to the boat next week, I expect to find a faulty alternator on the Yanmar.  If not, I'll let you know what I do find.  If that's what it is, the fault is grounded to the bonding system and would have destroyed my prop shaft again!

Before going back in the water I will have the Yanmar electrically isolated.

I will check hull potential monthly and weekly when on the dock with both the Yanmar and ONAN running,  the AC on, and the DC chargers running.

I won't stay connected to shore power unless I am on the boat.

 

I understand that the Amel system of isolating the bonding system from all AC and DC systems is what is done with metal-hulled boats, but can't confirm that.  It makes a lot more sense to me that that ABYC system of connecting all AC and DC systems to the bonding system.  It's another way that Capn Amel has good reason for designing his boats as he did.  Don't make changes without fully understanding why your boat is designed as it is.

 

More in a week or so!

Kent

SM243

Kristy



On Jun 26, 2015, at 11:19 AM, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Take a look at posts Kent has on this site. Not isolating the engine will over a very short time cause a issues with the Amel drive and engine. The old saying an once of prevention.    

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All

Capt Richard 

RP Yacht Brokerage

Newport RI 

We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's

Cell 603 767 5330


On Jun 26, 2015, at 07:51, alex.paquin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

So what would be the consequences on not isolating the engine ´s negative on all electrical sensors, actuators and alternators?

Alex Paquin

Simpatico Hull 94

Older Maramu 1981


Re: C-Drive

Olivier Beaute
 

Hi Will,

when such a shaft breaks, it is often because of fatigue stress. Fatigue stress comes mainly from misalignment of the engine with the drive. Once you have your drive repaired, you should make sure the people re-assembling your engine/drive system are very skilled.
After you replaced the flex coupling, did you replace the rubber mounts of the cradle too. They have probably suffered from the shock when you caught the rope in your prop (they may be too old too).

In order to replace the upper drive shaft:
-disconnect the flex coupling and move the engine backwards
-remove oil from the drive as much as you can
-disconnect the upper drive from its support (the support connected to the hull with the big hose)
-take the unit to a GOOD workshop
Then, depending on your engine hours (you must have many!!!), it may be wise to replace not only the shaft but also the bearings.
You should ask AMEL (sav at amel dot fr) for a quotation of a ready-to-mount top unit. The reason for that advice is that when installing a new shaft, the adjustment must be done very accurately (not too much slack, not too small...), if not, your new shaft may break after a few hours. Your mechanic worker should make measurements before dismantling the system.

When re-building the whole thing, the alignment must be done VERY carefully. You should feel very little vibrations when the engine is running, especially at high revs.
If you still have vibrations, your prop may be damaged and unbalanced. Check this too.

Who replaced your flex coupling?
How many hours do you have on the engine (if you know...) ?


Good luck and patience.

Olivier


Interior Wood Finishing

Nat Bossett
 

Anyone have details on what was used to finish the interior wood of
Maramus? Comments on the Super Maramus welcome as it may be close enough.

I've got little patches to maintain including sun and salt air damage
(near head skylight), bulkhead dings and deck dings plus deck moisture
damage near the reefer leaving bare patches of wood.

-Nathan

Maramu #29


Re: C-Drive

tango708@...
 

Oliver,
Thanks again sorry that I was silent for a few days... we had the flex coupling repaired in Charleston, SC and were underway again.   The second day we made Beaufort and the following day departed Beaufort for Cape Charles.  However, about 4 hours after departing Beaufort the drive shaft between the new coupling and the c-drive broke.  Does anyone on the forum have any advise regarding replacing this shaft?  The prop turns freely and the engine and transmission seem to be working normally.  My C-Drive looks like it can be accessed from inside the engine room without removing the entire unit.  Does anyone have the spec's for the shaft?  Type of steel etc.  I know that it is 35 mm.  The replacement flex coupling is a Vetus Type 6, KO53 (i.e. 35mm)


Regards,
Will Stout,
Anni Bea True
SM180


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Kent ,

I get about 7+ knots at 2200 and about 9 at 3000.

I have the same engine with an autoprop.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2015 9:04 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

 

 

My Volvo never got to maximum rpm until I re-propped, but after re-propping with a prop that was sized and pitched according to a prop shop in Norfolk, it did 7.5 kts at 2800rpm on flat water.  With my 110 Yanmar it does 8.3 kts at 3000rpm on flat water.  Not really significant since I don't run it that hard when motoring or motor sailing while cruising.  At 2200 rpm it pushes the boat at about 6 kts.

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Jun 25, 2015, at 6:44 PM, 'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Question to all SM owners

Whats the different between 80 hp and 110 hp

Max Speed for SM is ca 8.5 kn

Independent how much power, the power on the Prop is Important 

I have this speed with clean  boat/Propeller with the Perkins 80 hp Turbo (1990, 3000 h)

Hanspeter

SM 16 Tamango 2

Göcek, Tutkey

Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Am 25.06.2015 um 18:18 schrieb "Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Wise choice Steve..

 

JPG




On 25 Jun 2015, at 17:00, flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks for the info Chris. It looks like 80 hp is the way to go on our older boats due to the Cdrive issues.

Regards,
Steve and Liz
Aloha SM72


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I am convinced that Micron66 is the best antifouling for the tropics. My conviction is rooted in using it for many years, renewing it every two years and first-hand comparisons I have made with antifouling others have used. That said, I may be biased, because Micron66 was my choice. And, it generally costs more than others.

As mentioned in this thread, International Paint warns that taking Micron66 into fresh water will harm its effectiveness. I assume that is why International produced Micron77, which is effective in fresh and saltwater. Unfortunately, the EPA will not approve Micron77. I believe that in the last 6 years the EPA has blocked all new antifouling applications. Therefore, Micron77 is only available outside the influence of the EPA (some countries chose to follow the EPA). We applied Micron77 in Malta, and it is available in all of the EU.

I guess if the EPA inspects our hull, the antifouling will morph to Micron66.

Kent, I am not sure, but if that tin-based paint was a hard paint, but, if it is, the primer International makes for Micron66 may work for you. If I were you, I would talk directly to one of the International Distributors, or directly with International.

One more remark: I have found that the less costly Micron Extra is not as effective as the more costly Micron66 & Mucron77, but Micron Extra may be OK for non-tropical use.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jul 4, 2015 10:20 PM, "Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good information.
Thanks.

Vladimir
"Life is Good"
SM 345

On Jul 4, 2015 8:16 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The Kristy saga continues:

3 1/2 yrs ago I had the bottom painted in Trinidad. Sea Hawk's Island 44 was recommended. After taking the old paint down to gelcoat (it had 12 years of paint), a barrier coat was applied, then 2 coats of this tin-based paint (which is banned in the U.S. by the EPA). Great paint...lasted 3 + years and probably could have gone another 6 months.

I called a SeaHawk distributor and asked what they recommended since I couldn't buy it in the U.S., and he recommended their Island77. No mention of barrier coat or anything else.
I hauled out in Fernandina Beach, FL and had the bottom cleaned and lightly sanded, then 2 coats of Island77 applied. Then I discovered the prop shaft damage and the boat stayed on the hard for a year. Before launching I had another coat of Island 77 applied.

After sailing for only 6 weeks, I discovered the zincs were half gone already. I decided to haul out again so I could look at the prop shaft and have the topsides polished. All that new paint was GONE!

I called SeaHawk again, and this time they said "Nothing sticks to that tin-based paint." They recommended sanding it all down to gelcoat again.

If that isn't bad enough, the EPA requires that it be removed in an enclosed space, doesn't allow sandblasting it, only chemical stripper and sanding the rest with vacuum collection of dust, and disposal in a lined landfill. $10K just for paint removal! Plus a new barrier coat and new paint.

Moral of this story is 'Don't be lured into using banned paint unless you are going to be somewhere that you can buy it again when it's time to repaint." Apparently many places where you could buy it 3 years ago have now quit selling it.

I sure do seem to learn the hard way, don't I?

Steady as she goes.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning

karkauai
 

Thanks Steve.  Happy Fourth!  Hope your new Yanmar shows up on Monday!
Kent


From: "Steve Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: "amelyachtowners@..."
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2015 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning

 
Hey Kent,

Sorry about the latest issues, but you have got to be over the hump soon, as you have more than paid your due to the Gods of Chaos. We are still hauled in St Augustine, and hoping our new motor shows by mid next week. 

When we hauled at Fernandina in November, we put 2 coats of Sea Hawk Biocop TF. We have mostly been sitting at the dock in the marina, and we are in a notoriously high growth area up the San Sebastian river, and had not moved the boat until about 10 days ago when we went sailing. When we hauled after the sail, our bottom was almost completely clean. The Biocop TF is a hard ablative paint and I decided to give it a try after discussing it with Sea Hawk. I had originally intended to use the Micron 66, but decided not to when I learned that fresh water kills the paint. The Biocop TF is good in fresh or salt water, and so far, I'm impressed with its performance. I also prefer ablative paints, as it helps to prevent excessive build up over the years, followed by expensive paint removal. Not that it matters, but we painted our bottom red, and I kind of like the look. 

Hang in there, and you will be enjoying being on the water again soon. 

Steve and Liz
Aloha SM72




On Jul 4, 2015, at 08:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
The Kristy saga continues:

3 1/2 yrs ago I had the bottom painted in Trinidad. Sea Hawk's Island 44 was recommended. After taking the old paint down to gelcoat (it had 12 years of paint), a barrier coat was applied, then 2 coats of this tin-based paint (which is banned in the U.S. by the EPA). Great paint...lasted 3 + years and probably could have gone another 6 months.

I called a SeaHawk distributor and asked what they recommended since I couldn't buy it in the U.S., and he recommended their Island77. No mention of barrier coat or anything else.
I hauled out in Fernandina Beach, FL and had the bottom cleaned and lightly sanded, then 2 coats of Island77 applied. Then I discovered the prop shaft damage and the boat stayed on the hard for a year. Before launching I had another coat of Island 77 applied.

After sailing for only 6 weeks, I discovered the zincs were half gone already. I decided to haul out again so I could look at the prop shaft and have the topsides polished. All that new paint was GONE!

I called SeaHawk again, and this time they said "Nothing sticks to that tin-based paint." They recommended sanding it all down to gelcoat again.

If that isn't bad enough, the EPA requires that it be removed in an enclosed space, doesn't allow sandblasting it, only chemical stripper and sanding the rest with vacuum collection of dust, and disposal in a lined landfill. $10K just for paint removal! Plus a new barrier coat and new paint.

Moral of this story is 'Don't be lured into using banned paint unless you are going to be somewhere that you can buy it again when it's time to repaint." Apparently many places where you could buy it 3 years ago have now quit selling it.

I sure do seem to learn the hard way, don't I?

Steady as she goes.
Kent
SM243
Kristy