Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Hello Peter, Please keep us posted so that we can all learn from it!
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Sincerely, Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Mon, 7/6/15, peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...> Date: Monday, July 6, 2015, 4:31 PM Dear alexandreMany thanks indeed. Hopefully will get the problem sorted tomorrow. Have a mechanic dealing with it in the yard and think the problem is people pinpointed Kind regardsPeterPURE MAGICSM 433 On 6 Jul 2015, at 16:06, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Good afternoon Peter, Might be a good idea to start /restart a new topic for this…. I renamed my answer: "RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER" for you. After I had my water maker serviced (including a new high pressure sensor), I start it up then briefly after had the red light and it stopped The high pressure had to be adjusted. so that it stops the system only when reading the red zone. http://nikimat.com/water_maker_duo_d60.html Did you had your water maker serviced? Including a new high pressure sensor? If yes, then I guess the high pressure sensor needs to be adjusted. To get help, you need to write which model of Dessalator you have… and hopefully some more experience owner can help you. Sincerely, Alexandre SM2K #289 NIKIMAT Grand Bahama. -------------------------------------------- On Mon, 7/6/15, peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...> Date: Monday, July 6, 2015, 1:32 PM Excuse me cropping up under this subject. I have just this morning launched pure magic and turned on the watermaker. It worked for a minute or so then the red light went on and it has not worked since We have checked all the hoses ect but nothing seems wrongHas anybody got any ideas what could be the fault?It was winterised and was perfect Is there a feed pump from the main seawater inlet prior to the high pressure pump? PeterSM 433 Pure MagicCurrently in Halifax On 6 Jul 2015, at 09:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Hi Will.That happened on my boat a few years ago. The break was where the diameter of the shaft stepped down. A machinist in Puerto Rico turned the larger diameter part on his lathe 4-5 cms from the break to the same diameter as the smaller diameter part, then welded a collar of about 7-8 mm thickness over both ends. All agreed it was stronger than the original. There are pics of the broken and repaired shaft in a photo folder named "Amel SM Transmission/CDrive". Not sure why they are interspersed with other pics, but there are 4 or 5 pics. I was told that Amel doesn't like to sell only one part of the CDrive because of the gears perhaps being slightly different ( they are made as a set). If the gears all seem to be in good shape, the repair will save you a lot of money and time. And yes, the repair can be done without hauling the boat. Hope that helps.KentSM243Kristy Sent from my iPhone On Jul 5, 2015, at 11:16 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Oliver, Thanks again sorry that I was silent for a few days... we had the flex coupling repaired in Charleston, SC and were underway again. The second day we made Beaufort and the following day departed Beaufort for Cape Charles. However, about 4 hours after departing Beaufort the drive shaft between the new coupling and the c-drive broke. Does anyone on the forum have any advise regarding replacing this shaft? The prop turns freely and the engine and transmission seem to be working normally. My C-Drive looks like it can be accessed from inside the engine room without removing the entire unit. Does anyone have the spec's for the shaft? Type of steel etc. I know that it is 35 mm. The replacement flex coupling is a Vetus Type 6, KO53 (i.e. 35mm) Regards, Will Stout, Anni Bea True SM180 #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847 -- #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp #yiv7771974847hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp #yiv7771974847ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp .yiv7771974847ad { padding:0 0;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp .yiv7771974847ad p { margin:0;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp .yiv7771974847ad a { color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-sponsor #yiv7771974847ygrp-lc { font-family:Arial;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-sponsor #yiv7771974847ygrp-lc #yiv7771974847hd { margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;} 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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER
peter killen <peterkillen@...>
Dear alexandre Many thanks indeed. Hopefully will get the problem sorted tomorrow. Have a mechanic dealing with it in the yard and think the problem is people pinpointed Kind regards Peter PURE MAGIC SM 433
On 6 Jul 2015, at 16:06, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners
sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Kent, If my memory serves me correctly the Tach gets its info from a sender that works in conjunction with the flywheel. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 8:34 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners
Not exactly sure yet Eric, getting with electrician today. Because the tach gets its info from the alternator, it may be more complicated than the 4JH3 that gets its info from the shaft (?or cam?). I'll let you know when I figure it out. Kent SM243 Kristy
Hi , Our Yanmar came with VDO gauges separate from the main engine panel. Each sender and gauge is isolated ground . How do you plan on isolating the Yanmar alternator? I purchased a spare and after thinking about it I believe my spare is not isolated ground. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower
sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Kent, I can get 3400+ rpm out of the engine with the autoprop. I have a photo of the packing nut wrench I had made as well as the block that is at the end of my mizzen boom. Please send me your email address. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 8:19 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower
I think I can adjust my MaxProp one more click and still get 3000+ rpm, I'll do that before going back in the water and see what happens. Kent
Kent , I get about 7+ knots at 2200 and about 9 at 3000. I have the same engine with an autoprop. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
My Volvo never got to maximum rpm until I re-propped, but after re-propping with a prop that was sized and pitched according to a prop shop in Norfolk, it did 7.5 kts at 2800rpm on flat water. With my 110 Yanmar it does 8.3 kts at 3000rpm on flat water. Not really significant since I don't run it that hard when motoring or motor sailing while cruising. At 2200 rpm it pushes the boat at about 6 kts. Kent SM243 Kristy
Question to all SM owners Whats the different between 80 hp and 110 hp Max Speed for SM is ca 8.5 kn Independent how much power, the power on the Prop is Important I have this speed with clean boat/Propeller with the Perkins 80 hp Turbo (1990, 3000 h) Hanspeter SM 16 Tamango 2 Göcek, Tutkey
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Good afternoon Peter,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Might be a good idea to start /restart a new topic for this…. I renamed my answer: "RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER" for you. After I had my water maker serviced (including a new high pressure sensor), I start it up then briefly after had the red light and it stopped The high pressure had to be adjusted. so that it stops the system only when reading the red zone. http://nikimat.com/water_maker_duo_d60.html Did you had your water maker serviced? Including a new high pressure sensor? If yes, then I guess the high pressure sensor needs to be adjusted. To get help, you need to write which model of Dessalator you have… and hopefully some more experience owner can help you. Sincerely, Alexandre SM2K #289 NIKIMAT Grand Bahama. --------------------------------------------
On Mon, 7/6/15, peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...> Date: Monday, July 6, 2015, 1:32 PM Excuse me cropping up under this subject. I have just this morning launched pure magic and turned on the watermaker. It worked for a minute or so then the red light went on and it has not worked since We have checked all the hoses ect but nothing seems wrongHas anybody got any ideas what could be the fault?It was winterised and was perfect Is there a feed pump from the main seawater inlet prior to the high pressure pump? PeterSM 433 Pure MagicCurrently in Halifax On 6 Jul 2015, at 09:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Hi Will.That happened on my boat a few years ago. The break was where the diameter of the shaft stepped down. A machinist in Puerto Rico turned the larger diameter part on his lathe 4-5 cms from the break to the same diameter as the smaller diameter part, then welded a collar of about 7-8 mm thickness over both ends. All agreed it was stronger than the original. There are pics of the broken and repaired shaft in a photo folder named "Amel SM Transmission/CDrive". Not sure why they are interspersed with other pics, but there are 4 or 5 pics. I was told that Amel doesn't like to sell only one part of the CDrive because of the gears perhaps being slightly different ( they are made as a set). If the gears all seem to be in good shape, the repair will save you a lot of money and time. And yes, the repair can be done without hauling the boat. Hope that helps.KentSM243Kristy Sent from my iPhone On Jul 5, 2015, at 11:16 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Oliver, Thanks again sorry that I was silent for a few days... we had the flex coupling repaired in Charleston, SC and were underway again. The second day we made Beaufort and the following day departed Beaufort for Cape Charles. However, about 4 hours after departing Beaufort the drive shaft between the new coupling and the c-drive broke. Does anyone on the forum have any advise regarding replacing this shaft? The prop turns freely and the engine and transmission seem to be working normally. My C-Drive looks like it can be accessed from inside the engine room without removing the entire unit. Does anyone have the spec's for the shaft? Type of steel etc. I know that it is 35 mm. The replacement flex coupling is a Vetus Type 6, KO53 (i.e. 35mm) Regards, Will Stout, Anni Bea True SM180 #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847 -- #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp #yiv7771974847hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp #yiv7771974847ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp .yiv7771974847ad { padding:0 0;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp .yiv7771974847ad p { margin:0;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp .yiv7771974847ad a { color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-sponsor #yiv7771974847ygrp-lc { font-family:Arial;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-sponsor #yiv7771974847ygrp-lc #yiv7771974847hd { margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;} 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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive
peter killen <peterkillen@...>
Excuse me cropping up under this subject. I have just this morning launched pure magic and turned on the watermaker. It worked for a minute or so then the red light went on and it has not worked since We have checked all the hoses ect but nothing seems wrong Has anybody got any ideas what could be the fault? It was winterised and was perfect Is there a feed pump from the main seawater inlet prior to the high pressure pump? Peter SM 433 Pure Magic Currently in Halifax
On 6 Jul 2015, at 09:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning
Hi, Bill,
I've been doing some research about all this, and talking to the paint gurus here at Deltaville Boat Yard. It seems that CopperCoat works extremely well in colder water like the NE USA and Mediterranean, but not so much in the tropics, where I'll be doing most of my sailing. Micron66 is great paint for the tropics, but apparently doesn't do well in brackish water. Here on the Chesapeake they put Micron 66 on a boat at the owner's request, and had to repaint in just a few months. Interlux paid the bill for the prep and new paint job. Since I'll be in brackish water for the next several months, I'm going to go with their recommended Pettit Ultima SR60. When they have the old paint removed and the hull is dry enough, they'll put a coat of primer and two coats of paint. I'll let you know how it does. It turns out that SeaHawk Island 44, the tin-based paint is available almost everywhere but the US. It's actually sold in the US but can only be applied to boats of 75ftLOA. Most large ships and USNavy ships are painted with similar paints to avoid hauling out so often. So us little boats are the least likely to be polluting with bottom paint, but are the only ones who can't buy it here. What a crock! Gotta love the EPA. If this Pettit paint doesn't last more than a couple years, I'll probably go elsewhere and have Island 44 put on again. Steady as she goes. Kent SM243 Kristy
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners
Not exactly sure yet Eric, getting with electrician today. Because the tach gets its info from the alternator, it may be more complicated than the 4JH3 that gets its info from the shaft (?or cam?). I'll let you know when I figure it out. Kent SM243 Kristy
On Jul 6, 2015, at 4:21 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Hi , Our Yanmar came with VDO gauges separate from the main engine panel. Each sender and gauge is isolated ground . How do you plan on isolating the Yanmar alternator? I purchased a spare and after thinking about it I believe my spare is not isolated ground. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower
It's posted in the Files section, Eric. Kent
On Jul 6, 2015, at 4:06 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Hi Kent, Would you please send me a copy of the isolation schematics ? Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
The 12v alternator that came on my Yanmar110 has a ground wire, but it is grounded to the block. I think I will be able to use it. The 24v alternator that was in the old Volvo is also an isolated ground, but has been grounded to the non-isolated Yanmar ground wire thus far. Once I get the harness built, install the new switches, senders, and solenoids, both alternators and the senders will be grounded back to the negative on the battery side of the solenoid. The solenoid will make the connection of the engine block to the negative battery post only when the engine is cranked or when the STOP button is pushed. When the engine is stopped or running, the connection is interrupted by the solenoid. It'll make more sense when I get the isolation schematics to you. Good luck, Kent SM243 Kristy
Thanks Kent. You are a wealth of knowledge on this subject, and a great resource for the group. I'm curious, is your alternator an isolated ground alternator? Also, what gadget do you have to measure hull potential, as I need one. I will admit that your experience has scared me a bit.
On another subject, do you happen to know the pitch marks for your max prop? I've got the same prop, and suspect I'll need to adjust the pitch for the higher revving Yanmar.
Steve and Liz Aloha SM72
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower
I think I can adjust my MaxProp one more click and still get 3000+ rpm, I'll do that before going back in the water and see what happens. Kent
On Jul 5, 2015, at 9:44 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Kent , I get about 7+ knots at 2200 and about 9 at 3000. I have the same engine with an autoprop. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
My Volvo never got to maximum rpm until I re-propped, but after re-propping with a prop that was sized and pitched according to a prop shop in Norfolk, it did 7.5 kts at 2800rpm on flat water. With my 110 Yanmar it does 8.3 kts at 3000rpm on flat water. Not really significant since I don't run it that hard when motoring or motor sailing while cruising. At 2200 rpm it pushes the boat at about 6 kts. Kent SM243 Kristy
Question to all SM owners Whats the different between 80 hp and 110 hp Max Speed for SM is ca 8.5 kn Independent how much power, the power on the Prop is Important I have this speed with clean boat/Propeller with the Perkins 80 hp Turbo (1990, 3000 h) Hanspeter SM 16 Tamango 2 Göcek, Tutkey
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive
Hi Will. That happened on my boat a few years ago. The break was where the diameter of the shaft stepped down. A machinist in Puerto Rico turned the larger diameter part on his lathe 4-5 cms from the break to the same diameter as the smaller diameter part, then welded a collar of about 7-8 mm thickness over both ends. All agreed it was stronger than the original. There are pics of the broken and repaired shaft in a photo folder named "Amel SM Transmission/CDrive". Not sure why they are interspersed with other pics, but there are 4 or 5 pics. I was told that Amel doesn't like to sell only one part of the CDrive because of the gears perhaps being slightly different ( they are made as a set). If the gears all seem to be in good shape, the repair will save you a lot of money and time. And yes, the repair can be done without hauling the boat. Hope that helps. Kent SM243 Kristy
On Jul 5, 2015, at 11:16 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Oliver,
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Interior Wood Finishing
Nathan,
On my SM the interior wood is African Mahogany. It is finished with a semi-gloss polyurethane. As wood ages it will change color. Also, sunlight and damp effect the coloration. I would suggest purchasing light, medium and dark mahogany stains. Use trial and error with the mixes to try to match the color of your wood. Remember it is easier to restrain and go darker. So, start with a lighter color and build on it until you get the color you desire. Once the color is good, coat with polyurethane. Ideally, if you can find a one-step mix of polyurethane/stain such as Minwax Polyshade this is easiest to use. I found that a mix of Mahogany and Pecan was very close. These are available at Wal-Mart in the USA. http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/one-step-stain-and-finishes/minwax-polys hades With best regards, Mark Super Maramu 2000 Hull #275 www.creampuff.us Currently in Beaufort NC From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2015 11:22 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Interior Wood Finishing Anyone have details on what was used to finish the interior wood of Maramus? Comments on the Super Maramus welcome as it may be close enough. I've got little patches to maintain including sun and salt air damage (near head skylight), bulkhead dings and deck dings plus deck moisture damage near the reefer leaving bare patches of wood. -Nathan Maramu #29
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners
sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Hi , Our Yanmar came with VDO gauges separate from the main engine panel. Each sender and gauge is isolated ground . How do you plan on isolating the Yanmar alternator? I purchased a spare and after thinking about it I believe my spare is not isolated ground. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 11:13 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower
sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Hi Kent, Would you please send me a copy of the isolation schematics ? Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 2:10 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower
The 12v alternator that came on my Yanmar110 has a ground wire, but it is grounded to the block. I think I will be able to use it. The 24v alternator that was in the old Volvo is also an isolated ground, but has been grounded to the non-isolated Yanmar ground wire thus far. Once I get the harness built, install the new switches, senders, and solenoids, both alternators and the senders will be grounded back to the negative on the battery side of the solenoid. The solenoid will make the connection of the engine block to the negative battery post only when the engine is cranked or when the STOP button is pushed. When the engine is stopped or running, the connection is interrupted by the solenoid. It'll make more sense when I get the isolation schematics to you. Good luck, Kent SM243 Kristy
Thanks Kent. You are a wealth of knowledge on this subject, and a great resource for the group. I'm curious, is your alternator an isolated ground alternator? Also, what gadget do you have to measure hull potential, as I need one. I will admit that your experience has scared me a bit.
On another subject, do you happen to know the pitch marks for your max prop? I've got the same prop, and suspect I'll need to adjust the pitch for the higher revving Yanmar.
Steve and Liz Aloha SM72
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Re: C-Drive
Olivier Beaute
Hi Will, when such a shaft breaks, it is often because of fatigue stress. Fatigue stress comes mainly from misalignment of the engine with the drive. Once you have your drive repaired, you should make sure the people re-assembling your engine/drive system are very skilled. After you replaced the flex coupling, did you replace the rubber mounts of the cradle too. They have probably suffered from the shock when you caught the rope in your prop (they may be too old too). In order to replace the upper drive shaft: -disconnect the flex coupling and move the engine backwards -remove oil from the drive as much as you can -disconnect the upper drive from its support (the support connected to the hull with the big hose) -take the unit to a GOOD workshop Then, depending on your engine hours (you must have many!!!), it may be wise to replace not only the shaft but also the bearings. You should ask AMEL (sav at amel dot fr) for a quotation of a ready-to-mount top unit. The reason for that advice is that when installing a new shaft, the adjustment must be done very accurately (not too much slack, not too small...), if not, your new shaft may break after a few hours. Your mechanic worker should make measurements before dismantling the system. When re-building the whole thing, the alignment must be done VERY carefully. You should feel very little vibrations when the engine is running, especially at high revs. If you still have vibrations, your prop may be damaged and unbalanced. Check this too. Who replaced your flex coupling? How many hours do you have on the engine (if you know...) ? Good luck and patience. Olivier
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Interior Wood Finishing
Nat Bossett
Anyone have details on what was used to finish the interior wood of
Maramus? Comments on the Super Maramus welcome as it may be close enough. I've got little patches to maintain including sun and salt air damage (near head skylight), bulkhead dings and deck dings plus deck moisture damage near the reefer leaving bare patches of wood. -Nathan Maramu #29
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Re: C-Drive
tango708@...
Oliver,
Thanks again sorry that I was silent for a few days... we had the flex coupling repaired in Charleston, SC and were underway again. The second day we made Beaufort and the following day departed Beaufort for Cape Charles. However, about 4 hours after departing Beaufort the drive shaft between the new coupling and the c-drive broke. Does anyone on the forum have any advise regarding replacing this shaft? The prop turns freely and the engine and transmission seem to be working normally. My C-Drive looks like it can be accessed from inside the engine room without removing the entire unit. Does anyone have the spec's for the shaft? Type of steel etc. I know that it is 35 mm. The replacement flex coupling is a Vetus Type 6, KO53 (i.e. 35mm) Regards, Will Stout, Anni Bea True SM180
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower
sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Kent , I get about 7+ knots at 2200 and about 9 at 3000. I have the same engine with an autoprop. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2015 9:04 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower
My Volvo never got to maximum rpm until I re-propped, but after re-propping with a prop that was sized and pitched according to a prop shop in Norfolk, it did 7.5 kts at 2800rpm on flat water. With my 110 Yanmar it does 8.3 kts at 3000rpm on flat water. Not really significant since I don't run it that hard when motoring or motor sailing while cruising. At 2200 rpm it pushes the boat at about 6 kts. Kent SM243 Kristy
Question to all SM owners Whats the different between 80 hp and 110 hp Max Speed for SM is ca 8.5 kn Independent how much power, the power on the Prop is Important I have this speed with clean boat/Propeller with the Perkins 80 hp Turbo (1990, 3000 h) Hanspeter SM 16 Tamango 2 Göcek, Tutkey
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
I am convinced that Micron66 is the best antifouling for the tropics. My conviction is rooted in using it for many years, renewing it every two years and first-hand comparisons I have made with antifouling others have used. That said, I may be biased, because Micron66 was my choice. And, it generally costs more than others. As mentioned in this thread, International Paint warns that taking Micron66 into fresh water will harm its effectiveness. I assume that is why International produced Micron77, which is effective in fresh and saltwater. Unfortunately, the EPA will not approve Micron77. I believe that in the last 6 years the EPA has blocked all new antifouling applications. Therefore, Micron77 is only available outside the influence of the EPA (some countries chose to follow the EPA). We applied Micron77 in Malta, and it is available in all of the EU. I guess if the EPA inspects our hull, the antifouling will morph to Micron66. Kent, I am not sure, but if that tin-based paint was a hard paint, but, if it is, the primer International makes for Micron66 may work for you. If I were you, I would talk directly to one of the International Distributors, or directly with International. One more remark: I have found that the less costly Micron Extra is not as effective as the more costly Micron66 & Mucron77, but Micron Extra may be OK for non-tropical use. Bill Rouse On Jul 4, 2015 10:20 PM, "Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning
Thanks Steve. Happy Fourth! Hope your new Yanmar shows up on Monday! Kent From: "Steve Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners]" To: "amelyachtowners@..." Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2015 11:56 AM Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning Hey Kent, Sorry about the latest issues, but you have got to be over the hump soon, as you have more than paid your due to the Gods of Chaos. We are still hauled in St Augustine, and hoping our new motor shows by mid next week. When we hauled at Fernandina in November, we put 2 coats of Sea Hawk Biocop TF. We have mostly been sitting at the dock in the marina, and we are in a notoriously high growth area up the San Sebastian river, and had not moved the boat until about 10 days ago when we went sailing. When we hauled after the sail, our bottom was almost completely clean. The Biocop TF is a hard ablative paint and I decided to give it a try after discussing it with Sea Hawk. I had originally intended to use the Micron 66, but decided not to when I learned that fresh water kills the paint. The Biocop TF is good in fresh or salt water, and so far, I'm impressed with its performance. I also prefer ablative paints, as it helps to prevent excessive build up over the years, followed by expensive paint removal. Not that it matters, but we painted our bottom red, and I kind of like the look. Hang in there, and you will be enjoying being on the water again soon. Steve and Liz Aloha SM72
On Jul 4, 2015, at 08:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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