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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive
Olivier Beaute
Hi Will,
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yes it is possible to take down the shaft with bearings and gear from the top C-drive while the vessel is afloat. However, it may be difficult to remove the shaft because of aging.For removing the old shaft and installing the new one, I would recommend to take the top C-drive away. Considering the C-drive is repaired, here is the procedure for alignment.-First use a fixed coupling (internal diameter 40 mm) to check that the shaft of the C-drive is centered with the Gear-box flange. the better is to have the fixed coupling (used as a tool) machined (see picture 2) in order it can be plugged into the gear-box flange's internal cylindric gap (see picture 1). If you still have the original gear-box (HURTH-ZF 250 mechanic) the flange will be slightly different. Picture 1 shows an hydraulic ZF-25 gear-box.-Install the fixed coupling on the C-drive shaft (with key) and bring the engine forward until they both come in touch. An off-centered shaft (C-drive) can be easily seen (picture 3). To correct this, you should adjust the height of the top C-drive by moving the bolts of the C-drive's mounts. You can adjust it of about 1mm without undoing the big rubber sleeve. If you need more, you should ease the hose clamps on the big rubber sleeve in order you can bring the top C-drive more upwards (or downwards). On the picture, the top C-drive needed to be moved of 2mm.-once both shaft are centered and the male part of the fixed coupling enters the female part of the gear-box flange, you have to check if both flanges are parallel, using calibrated shims of 0.1mm. You should be able to adjust the space between both flanges to 0.0 mm, by moving the top C-drive sideways. If this is not enough, you'll have to widen the holes in the cradle where the engine supports bolts fit.-once the slack between both flanges is 0.0mm, tighten the top C-drive mounts and mark the position of the engine supports onto the cradle-move the engine back again and install the new flex coupling on the C-drive shaft, then bring the engine back forward to the marks. Tighten the engine. Check the slack again between the flex coupling and the gear-box flange. Then tighten the coupling. I don't know your skills, if you're going to do it yourself. But I stress on the fact that you should have this job done by a trustable mechanic company. If you still feel vibrations that increase with the rpm, the alignment is still not good. Do it again...If it's really impossible to adjust, the prop will have to be checked for balance. You could also try your spare fixed prop (supplied originally). I will be travelling for the next days but should be able to reach my e-mails. Feel free to ask for more details.Tell me if you get the pictures. Good luck. Olivier On Tuesday, July 7, 2015 2:41 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Hi again Will,I'm sure that Olivier will give you good advice on alignment. If they didn't put new motor mounts when the prior owner repowered, I would certainly do that. If they used new mounts that were the same as the old ones installed with the Volvo, they are significantly undersized for your new engine. That could be the source of your vibration/shaft failure.When I repowered with the 4JH4HTE, new shims were made of cylindrical steel about 1 1/4 inch outside diameter with a center hole large enough for the bolts that hold the engine on the angle iron "beds". The aft ones are longer than the foreword ones. If needed I can measure them, but I suspect each boat is a little different.The new mounts had different hole configuration where they rest on the stringer. In the stringers about 3" from the surface is an embedded steel plate that has to be drilled and tapped for the new mounts. There was a hump in the stringers that the engine mounts rest on where the forward mounts were added that had to be ground down to get a solid fit. I'm in Deltaville, VA for another couple of weeks if you want to drive up and see the installation.You can reach me at karkauai at yahoo dot comOr call my cell at 828-234-6819.KentSM243Kristy On Jul 6, 2015, at 6:09 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Hi Kent, and thanks for the info. I did take a look at your photo's. I was under the impression for some reason that the larger part of the shaft was drilled/tooled and a new shaft (35mm on my boat) was made and pressed into the larger portion of the shaft and then welded into place. However, I understand now that the larger shaft was tooled down to 35mm and shortened 4-5mm and a collar made to fit over the joint that was welded into place. Questions: 1) Did you have to pull the c-drive or were you able to remove the shaft from the engine room. 2) Would you mind sketching for me what you did to effect the repairs and take a photo of the sketch with your phone and email or text to me. I want to make sure I understand exactly what you did in order to duplicate it. I think you have my phone number from our last conversation 206 841 9556. Thank You, Will Stout Anni Bea True SM 180 Cape Charles Yacht Center waiting repairs. #yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925 -- #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp #yiv6046387925hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp #yiv6046387925ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp .yiv6046387925ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp .yiv6046387925ad p {margin:0;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp .yiv6046387925ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-sponsor #yiv6046387925ygrp-lc {font-family:Arial;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-sponsor #yiv6046387925ygrp-lc #yiv6046387925hd {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-sponsor 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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive
Hi again Will, I'm sure that Olivier will give you good advice on alignment. If they didn't put new motor mounts when the prior owner repowered, I would certainly do that. If they used new mounts that were the same as the old ones installed with the Volvo, they are significantly undersized for your new engine. That could be the source of your vibration/shaft failure. When I repowered with the 4JH4HTE, new shims were made of cylindrical steel about 1 1/4 inch outside diameter with a center hole large enough for the bolts that hold the engine on the angle iron "beds". The aft ones are longer than the foreword ones. If needed I can measure them, but I suspect each boat is a little different. The new mounts had different hole configuration where they rest on the stringer. In the stringers about 3" from the surface is an embedded steel plate that has to be drilled and tapped for the new mounts. There was a hump in the stringers that the engine mounts rest on where the forward mounts were added that had to be ground down to get a solid fit. I'm in Deltaville, VA for another couple of weeks if you want to drive up and see the installation. You can reach me at karkauai at yahoo dot com Or call my cell at 828-234-6819. Kent SM243 Kristy On Jul 6, 2015, at 6:09 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Hi Kent, and thanks for the info. I did take a look at your photo's. I was under the impression for some reason that the larger part of the shaft was drilled/tooled and a new shaft (35mm on my boat) was made and pressed into the larger portion of the shaft and then welded into place. However, I understand now that the larger shaft was tooled down to 35mm and shortened 4-5mm and a collar made to fit over the joint that was welded into place. Questions: 1) Did you have to pull the c-drive or were you able to remove the shaft from the engine room. 2) Would you mind sketching for me what you did to effect the repairs and take a photo of the sketch with your phone and email or text to me. I want to make sure I understand exactly what you did in order to duplicate it. I think you have my phone number from our last conversation 206 841 9556. |
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower
karkauai at yahoo dot com Kent On Jul 6, 2015, at 3:41 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Kent, I can get 3400+ rpm out of the engine with the autoprop. I have a photo of the packing nut wrench I had made as well as the block that is at the end of my mizzen boom. Please send me your email address. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
I think I can adjust my MaxProp one more click and still get 3000+ rpm, I'll do that before going back in the water and see what happens. Kent
Kent , I get about 7+ knots at 2200 and about 9 at 3000. I have the same engine with an autoprop. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
My Volvo never got to maximum rpm until I re-propped, but after re-propping with a prop that was sized and pitched according to a prop shop in Norfolk, it did 7.5 kts at 2800rpm on flat water. With my 110 Yanmar it does 8.3 kts at 3000rpm on flat water. Not really significant since I don't run it that hard when motoring or motor sailing while cruising. At 2200 rpm it pushes the boat at about 6 kts. Kent SM243 Kristy
Question to all SM owners Whats the different between 80 hp and 110 hp Max Speed for SM is ca 8.5 kn Independent how much power, the power on the Prop is Important I have this speed with clean boat/Propeller with the Perkins 80 hp Turbo (1990, 3000 h) Hanspeter SM 16 Tamango 2 Göcek, Tutkey
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Photos posted-- primary winch base, stuffing box wrench, block at the end of the mizzen boom
sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Hi , I just posted some photos to my file Kimberlite. They are at the end if you look in date order. Sorry but I do not know how to add a title to the photos. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
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Re: C-Drive
tango708@...
Hi Oliver, And thanks for the good advise. The flex coupling was replaced by a company, Moxey Marine in Charlestson and little or no attention was paid to the C-Drive. That said my boat had only 50 hours on a new Yanmar HJ4H-HTE when I purchased and presently has about 300. I have no idea of how many hours are on the C-Drive from the original Volvo.
Assuming that I can have the shaft rebuilt hear in USA or purchase a top unit from Amel what is the procedure for aligning the engine with the shaft? Regards, Will Stout Anni Bea True SM180 Cape Charles Yacht Center waiting repairs |
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive
tango708@...
Hi Kent, and thanks for the info. I did take a look at your photo's. I was under the impression for some reason that the larger part of the shaft was drilled/tooled and a new shaft (35mm on my boat) was made and pressed into the larger portion of the shaft and then welded into place. However, I understand now that the larger shaft was tooled down to 35mm and shortened 4-5mm and a collar made to fit over the joint that was welded into place. Questions: 1) Did you have to pull the c-drive or were you able to remove the shaft from the engine room. 2) Would you mind sketching for me what you did to effect the repairs and take a photo of the sketch with your phone and email or text to me. I want to make sure I understand exactly what you did in order to duplicate it. I think you have my phone number from our last conversation 206 841 9556.
Thank You, Will Stout Anni Bea True SM 180 Cape Charles Yacht Center waiting repairs. |
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Hello Peter, Please keep us posted so that we can all learn from it!
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Sincerely, Alexandre -------------------------------------------- On Mon, 7/6/15, peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...> Date: Monday, July 6, 2015, 4:31 PM Dear alexandreMany thanks indeed. Hopefully will get the problem sorted tomorrow. Have a mechanic dealing with it in the yard and think the problem is people pinpointed Kind regardsPeterPURE MAGICSM 433 On 6 Jul 2015, at 16:06, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Good afternoon Peter, Might be a good idea to start /restart a new topic for this…. I renamed my answer: "RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER" for you. After I had my water maker serviced (including a new high pressure sensor), I start it up then briefly after had the red light and it stopped The high pressure had to be adjusted. so that it stops the system only when reading the red zone. http://nikimat.com/water_maker_duo_d60.html Did you had your water maker serviced? Including a new high pressure sensor? If yes, then I guess the high pressure sensor needs to be adjusted. To get help, you need to write which model of Dessalator you have… and hopefully some more experience owner can help you. Sincerely, Alexandre SM2K #289 NIKIMAT Grand Bahama. -------------------------------------------- On Mon, 7/6/15, peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...> Date: Monday, July 6, 2015, 1:32 PM Excuse me cropping up under this subject. I have just this morning launched pure magic and turned on the watermaker. It worked for a minute or so then the red light went on and it has not worked since We have checked all the hoses ect but nothing seems wrongHas anybody got any ideas what could be the fault?It was winterised and was perfect Is there a feed pump from the main seawater inlet prior to the high pressure pump? PeterSM 433 Pure MagicCurrently in Halifax On 6 Jul 2015, at 09:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Hi Will.That happened on my boat a few years ago. The break was where the diameter of the shaft stepped down. A machinist in Puerto Rico turned the larger diameter part on his lathe 4-5 cms from the break to the same diameter as the smaller diameter part, then welded a collar of about 7-8 mm thickness over both ends. All agreed it was stronger than the original. There are pics of the broken and repaired shaft in a photo folder named "Amel SM Transmission/CDrive". Not sure why they are interspersed with other pics, but there are 4 or 5 pics. I was told that Amel doesn't like to sell only one part of the CDrive because of the gears perhaps being slightly different ( they are made as a set). If the gears all seem to be in good shape, the repair will save you a lot of money and time. And yes, the repair can be done without hauling the boat. Hope that helps.KentSM243Kristy Sent from my iPhone On Jul 5, 2015, at 11:16 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Oliver, Thanks again sorry that I was silent for a few days... we had the flex coupling repaired in Charleston, SC and were underway again. The second day we made Beaufort and the following day departed Beaufort for Cape Charles. However, about 4 hours after departing Beaufort the drive shaft between the new coupling and the c-drive broke. Does anyone on the forum have any advise regarding replacing this shaft? The prop turns freely and the engine and transmission seem to be working normally. My C-Drive looks like it can be accessed from inside the engine room without removing the entire unit. Does anyone have the spec's for the shaft? Type of steel etc. I know that it is 35 mm. The replacement flex coupling is a Vetus Type 6, KO53 (i.e. 35mm) Regards, Will Stout, Anni Bea True SM180 #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847 -- #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp #yiv7771974847hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp #yiv7771974847ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp .yiv7771974847ad { padding:0 0;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp .yiv7771974847ad p { margin:0;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp .yiv7771974847ad a { color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-sponsor #yiv7771974847ygrp-lc { font-family:Arial;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-sponsor #yiv7771974847ygrp-lc #yiv7771974847hd { margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;} 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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER
peter killen <peterkillen@...>
Dear alexandre Many thanks indeed. Hopefully will get the problem sorted tomorrow. Have a mechanic dealing with it in the yard and think the problem is people pinpointed Kind regards Peter PURE MAGIC SM 433 On 6 Jul 2015, at 16:06, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners
sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Kent, If my memory serves me correctly the Tach gets its info from a sender that works in conjunction with the flywheel. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 8:34 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners
Not exactly sure yet Eric, getting with electrician today. Because the tach gets its info from the alternator, it may be more complicated than the 4JH3 that gets its info from the shaft (?or cam?). I'll let you know when I figure it out. Kent SM243 Kristy
Hi , Our Yanmar came with VDO gauges separate from the main engine panel. Each sender and gauge is isolated ground . How do you plan on isolating the Yanmar alternator? I purchased a spare and after thinking about it I believe my spare is not isolated ground. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower
sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Kent, I can get 3400+ rpm out of the engine with the autoprop. I have a photo of the packing nut wrench I had made as well as the block that is at the end of my mizzen boom. Please send me your email address. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 8:19 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower
I think I can adjust my MaxProp one more click and still get 3000+ rpm, I'll do that before going back in the water and see what happens. Kent
Kent , I get about 7+ knots at 2200 and about 9 at 3000. I have the same engine with an autoprop. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
My Volvo never got to maximum rpm until I re-propped, but after re-propping with a prop that was sized and pitched according to a prop shop in Norfolk, it did 7.5 kts at 2800rpm on flat water. With my 110 Yanmar it does 8.3 kts at 3000rpm on flat water. Not really significant since I don't run it that hard when motoring or motor sailing while cruising. At 2200 rpm it pushes the boat at about 6 kts. Kent SM243 Kristy
Question to all SM owners Whats the different between 80 hp and 110 hp Max Speed for SM is ca 8.5 kn Independent how much power, the power on the Prop is Important I have this speed with clean boat/Propeller with the Perkins 80 hp Turbo (1990, 3000 h) Hanspeter SM 16 Tamango 2 Göcek, Tutkey
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Good afternoon Peter,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Might be a good idea to start /restart a new topic for this…. I renamed my answer: "RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER" for you. After I had my water maker serviced (including a new high pressure sensor), I start it up then briefly after had the red light and it stopped The high pressure had to be adjusted. so that it stops the system only when reading the red zone. http://nikimat.com/water_maker_duo_d60.html Did you had your water maker serviced? Including a new high pressure sensor? If yes, then I guess the high pressure sensor needs to be adjusted. To get help, you need to write which model of Dessalator you have… and hopefully some more experience owner can help you. Sincerely, Alexandre SM2K #289 NIKIMAT Grand Bahama. -------------------------------------------- On Mon, 7/6/15, peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...> Date: Monday, July 6, 2015, 1:32 PM Excuse me cropping up under this subject. I have just this morning launched pure magic and turned on the watermaker. It worked for a minute or so then the red light went on and it has not worked since We have checked all the hoses ect but nothing seems wrongHas anybody got any ideas what could be the fault?It was winterised and was perfect Is there a feed pump from the main seawater inlet prior to the high pressure pump? PeterSM 433 Pure MagicCurrently in Halifax On 6 Jul 2015, at 09:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Hi Will.That happened on my boat a few years ago. The break was where the diameter of the shaft stepped down. A machinist in Puerto Rico turned the larger diameter part on his lathe 4-5 cms from the break to the same diameter as the smaller diameter part, then welded a collar of about 7-8 mm thickness over both ends. All agreed it was stronger than the original. There are pics of the broken and repaired shaft in a photo folder named "Amel SM Transmission/CDrive". Not sure why they are interspersed with other pics, but there are 4 or 5 pics. I was told that Amel doesn't like to sell only one part of the CDrive because of the gears perhaps being slightly different ( they are made as a set). If the gears all seem to be in good shape, the repair will save you a lot of money and time. And yes, the repair can be done without hauling the boat. Hope that helps.KentSM243Kristy Sent from my iPhone On Jul 5, 2015, at 11:16 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Oliver, Thanks again sorry that I was silent for a few days... we had the flex coupling repaired in Charleston, SC and were underway again. The second day we made Beaufort and the following day departed Beaufort for Cape Charles. However, about 4 hours after departing Beaufort the drive shaft between the new coupling and the c-drive broke. Does anyone on the forum have any advise regarding replacing this shaft? The prop turns freely and the engine and transmission seem to be working normally. My C-Drive looks like it can be accessed from inside the engine room without removing the entire unit. Does anyone have the spec's for the shaft? Type of steel etc. I know that it is 35 mm. The replacement flex coupling is a Vetus Type 6, KO53 (i.e. 35mm) Regards, Will Stout, Anni Bea True SM180 #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847 -- #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp #yiv7771974847hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp #yiv7771974847ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp .yiv7771974847ad { padding:0 0;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp .yiv7771974847ad p { margin:0;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-mkp .yiv7771974847ad a { color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-sponsor #yiv7771974847ygrp-lc { font-family:Arial;} #yiv7771974847 #yiv7771974847ygrp-sponsor #yiv7771974847ygrp-lc #yiv7771974847hd { margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;} 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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive
peter killen <peterkillen@...>
Excuse me cropping up under this subject. I have just this morning launched pure magic and turned on the watermaker. It worked for a minute or so then the red light went on and it has not worked since We have checked all the hoses ect but nothing seems wrong Has anybody got any ideas what could be the fault? It was winterised and was perfect Is there a feed pump from the main seawater inlet prior to the high pressure pump? Peter SM 433 Pure Magic Currently in Halifax On 6 Jul 2015, at 09:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning
Hi, Bill,
I've been doing some research about all this, and talking to the paint gurus here at Deltaville Boat Yard. It seems that CopperCoat works extremely well in colder water like the NE USA and Mediterranean, but not so much in the tropics, where I'll be doing most of my sailing. Micron66 is great paint for the tropics, but apparently doesn't do well in brackish water. Here on the Chesapeake they put Micron 66 on a boat at the owner's request, and had to repaint in just a few months. Interlux paid the bill for the prep and new paint job. Since I'll be in brackish water for the next several months, I'm going to go with their recommended Pettit Ultima SR60. When they have the old paint removed and the hull is dry enough, they'll put a coat of primer and two coats of paint. I'll let you know how it does. It turns out that SeaHawk Island 44, the tin-based paint is available almost everywhere but the US. It's actually sold in the US but can only be applied to boats of 75ftLOA. Most large ships and USNavy ships are painted with similar paints to avoid hauling out so often. So us little boats are the least likely to be polluting with bottom paint, but are the only ones who can't buy it here. What a crock! Gotta love the EPA. If this Pettit paint doesn't last more than a couple years, I'll probably go elsewhere and have Island 44 put on again. Steady as she goes. Kent SM243 Kristy |
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners
Not exactly sure yet Eric, getting with electrician today. Because the tach gets its info from the alternator, it may be more complicated than the 4JH3 that gets its info from the shaft (?or cam?). I'll let you know when I figure it out. Kent SM243 Kristy On Jul 6, 2015, at 4:21 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Hi , Our Yanmar came with VDO gauges separate from the main engine panel. Each sender and gauge is isolated ground . How do you plan on isolating the Yanmar alternator? I purchased a spare and after thinking about it I believe my spare is not isolated ground. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower
It's posted in the Files section, Eric. Kent On Jul 6, 2015, at 4:06 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Hi Kent, Would you please send me a copy of the isolation schematics ? Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
The 12v alternator that came on my Yanmar110 has a ground wire, but it is grounded to the block. I think I will be able to use it. The 24v alternator that was in the old Volvo is also an isolated ground, but has been grounded to the non-isolated Yanmar ground wire thus far. Once I get the harness built, install the new switches, senders, and solenoids, both alternators and the senders will be grounded back to the negative on the battery side of the solenoid. The solenoid will make the connection of the engine block to the negative battery post only when the engine is cranked or when the STOP button is pushed. When the engine is stopped or running, the connection is interrupted by the solenoid. It'll make more sense when I get the isolation schematics to you. Good luck, Kent SM243 Kristy
Thanks Kent. You are a wealth of knowledge on this subject, and a great resource for the group. I'm curious, is your alternator an isolated ground alternator? Also, what gadget do you have to measure hull potential, as I need one. I will admit that your experience has scared me a bit.
On another subject, do you happen to know the pitch marks for your max prop? I've got the same prop, and suspect I'll need to adjust the pitch for the higher revving Yanmar.
Steve and Liz Aloha SM72
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower
I think I can adjust my MaxProp one more click and still get 3000+ rpm, I'll do that before going back in the water and see what happens. Kent On Jul 5, 2015, at 9:44 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Kent , I get about 7+ knots at 2200 and about 9 at 3000. I have the same engine with an autoprop. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
My Volvo never got to maximum rpm until I re-propped, but after re-propping with a prop that was sized and pitched according to a prop shop in Norfolk, it did 7.5 kts at 2800rpm on flat water. With my 110 Yanmar it does 8.3 kts at 3000rpm on flat water. Not really significant since I don't run it that hard when motoring or motor sailing while cruising. At 2200 rpm it pushes the boat at about 6 kts. Kent SM243 Kristy
Question to all SM owners Whats the different between 80 hp and 110 hp Max Speed for SM is ca 8.5 kn Independent how much power, the power on the Prop is Important I have this speed with clean boat/Propeller with the Perkins 80 hp Turbo (1990, 3000 h) Hanspeter SM 16 Tamango 2 Göcek, Tutkey
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive
Hi Will. That happened on my boat a few years ago. The break was where the diameter of the shaft stepped down. A machinist in Puerto Rico turned the larger diameter part on his lathe 4-5 cms from the break to the same diameter as the smaller diameter part, then welded a collar of about 7-8 mm thickness over both ends. All agreed it was stronger than the original. There are pics of the broken and repaired shaft in a photo folder named "Amel SM Transmission/CDrive". Not sure why they are interspersed with other pics, but there are 4 or 5 pics. I was told that Amel doesn't like to sell only one part of the CDrive because of the gears perhaps being slightly different ( they are made as a set). If the gears all seem to be in good shape, the repair will save you a lot of money and time. And yes, the repair can be done without hauling the boat. Hope that helps. Kent SM243 Kristy On Jul 5, 2015, at 11:16 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Oliver, |
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Interior Wood Finishing
Nathan,
On my SM the interior wood is African Mahogany. It is finished with a semi-gloss polyurethane. As wood ages it will change color. Also, sunlight and damp effect the coloration. I would suggest purchasing light, medium and dark mahogany stains. Use trial and error with the mixes to try to match the color of your wood. Remember it is easier to restrain and go darker. So, start with a lighter color and build on it until you get the color you desire. Once the color is good, coat with polyurethane. Ideally, if you can find a one-step mix of polyurethane/stain such as Minwax Polyshade this is easiest to use. I found that a mix of Mahogany and Pecan was very close. These are available at Wal-Mart in the USA. http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/one-step-stain-and-finishes/minwax-polys hades With best regards, Mark Super Maramu 2000 Hull #275 www.creampuff.us Currently in Beaufort NC From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2015 11:22 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Interior Wood Finishing Anyone have details on what was used to finish the interior wood of Maramus? Comments on the Super Maramus welcome as it may be close enough. I've got little patches to maintain including sun and salt air damage (near head skylight), bulkhead dings and deck dings plus deck moisture damage near the reefer leaving bare patches of wood. -Nathan Maramu #29 |
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners
sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Hi , Our Yanmar came with VDO gauges separate from the main engine panel. Each sender and gauge is isolated ground . How do you plan on isolating the Yanmar alternator? I purchased a spare and after thinking about it I believe my spare is not isolated ground. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 11:13 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower
sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Hi Kent, Would you please send me a copy of the isolation schematics ? Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 2:10 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower
The 12v alternator that came on my Yanmar110 has a ground wire, but it is grounded to the block. I think I will be able to use it. The 24v alternator that was in the old Volvo is also an isolated ground, but has been grounded to the non-isolated Yanmar ground wire thus far. Once I get the harness built, install the new switches, senders, and solenoids, both alternators and the senders will be grounded back to the negative on the battery side of the solenoid. The solenoid will make the connection of the engine block to the negative battery post only when the engine is cranked or when the STOP button is pushed. When the engine is stopped or running, the connection is interrupted by the solenoid. It'll make more sense when I get the isolation schematics to you. Good luck, Kent SM243 Kristy
Thanks Kent. You are a wealth of knowledge on this subject, and a great resource for the group. I'm curious, is your alternator an isolated ground alternator? Also, what gadget do you have to measure hull potential, as I need one. I will admit that your experience has scared me a bit.
On another subject, do you happen to know the pitch marks for your max prop? I've got the same prop, and suspect I'll need to adjust the pitch for the higher revving Yanmar.
Steve and Liz Aloha SM72
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