Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Furler stuck

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi Pat. Can you drop the head sail if so with the halyard out of the way does the roller system. 
If so does the roller bearing that goes up with the sail turn free. 
Or does it wrap the halyard??
Before you start take anything major apart look at the simple stuff first.  
Give a call let talk it over. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 1, 2014, at 10:10, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

 

Pat, a second reading of your post got me to wondering if the motor runs and gearbox turns with the engagement pin pulled? Isolate the furling foil from the gearbox and see if the motor runs freely. Gary


Re: Furler stuck

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Pat, a second reading of your post got me to wondering if the motor runs and gearbox turns with the engagement pin pulled? Isolate the furling foil from the gearbox and see if the motor runs freely. Gary


Re: Furler stuck

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

I think the key point here is that the foil/furler won't turn when the engagement pin is pulled. That, in my opinion excludes the gearbox & motor. Before doing anyrhing else, go up the mast and look to verify something ( a mis-led halyard etc) isn't binding at the head. You have focused your trouble shooting on only 1/2 of the system, check out what, if anything, is going on at the top of the system. Just a thought. Sincerely, Gary Silver SM 335


Re: Furler stuck

myersdon1
 

You may have a combination of problems.  It is very disconcerting that the motor stalls as it has a great deal of torque.  I would first separate the foil from the gearbox.  This is accomplished by removing the three 10 mm bolts located around the cast aluminum piece riveted to the foil.  You should be able to lift the foil using the genoa halyard and attaching the swivel to the cast piece.  This may take a little persuasion due to corrosion around the shaft.  The foil will move up a few inches and when free of the gearbox you can try to turn the foil.  It should turn freely if the halyard is not so tight that it is jammed at the top.  If it turns freely your problem is in the gearbox or motor.  I would next check the motor.  Remove the motor cover, check the connections at the motor and in the port side front locker.  Check the motor brushes.  You can remove the motor and make sure it's shaft turns freely.  If no problem has been found to this point, the issue must be within the gearbox.  I believe removal has been described in other posts.


Furler stuck

Patrick McAneny
 

We put our genoa on last night and the furler turned only two revolutions and stopped. I pulled up the pin to roll it in by hand and could only turn it a bit more and no further. It was very difficult to unroll it the 4 or 5 revolutions so we could drop the sail. While pulling the sail up I thought I felt the furler drop  a little , I looked and the rivets looked fine so I thought nothing more of it. The drum and furler should be separate from the metal plate under it when the pin is in the up position. Does the furler ride on a bearing that may be bad ? The further I turned it ,it got harder to turn until I could turn it no further , about 4 revolutions. After I got it unrolled and removed the sail , I was later able to turn it a few revolutions with the motor and then it got slow and stopped and only the solenoid would click but the motor would not turn. Does anyone have any idea as to what the source of the friction would be or why the fuler will not turn , with the pin up ?

                                                                                         Thanks ,

                                                                                         Pat SM Shenanigans


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forestay Grease

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Thank you, Olivier,     Yes, it is exactly 14 years ago today since you commissioned Pen Azen for us in La Rochelle. Since then we have sailed some 58,000 miles with two Atlantic crossings and a 7 year circumnavigation of South America with two seasons in the Beagle Channel ( plus, bien sur ! a rounding of Cape Horn) . We are as in love with Pen Azen as the day we first set foot on her.
   All the best,
   Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Corfu




To: amelyachtowners@...
From: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2014 01:50:28 -0700
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forestay Grease



Good morning Judy and Ian,
 
I can imagine you had wonderful sailing journeys since we last met (!).
A good grease for the genoa foil is silicone grease, because it's thick and sticky (though melting at warm temperatures, leaving grease flowing on the forestay chain-plat, as you probably all experienced).
This grease is also good for the turn-buckles'threads, when you tighten them.
 
By the way, Craig is right saying that you should take down the electric furler from the foil, before droping the foil/forestay assembly, because of the weight, but also because of a plastic sleeve/bearing, located around the forestay, at the bottom, between the foil and the motor. This plastic sleeve will prevent you from pulling the forestay out of the foil (the bottom swage will knock on the sleeve).
This plastic sleeve is a cylinder made of two halves in order one can easily install and remove it.
 
All the best.
 
Olivier.



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forestay Grease

Olivier Beaute
 

Good morning Judy and Ian,
 
I can imagine you had wonderful sailing journeys since we last met (!).
A good grease for the genoa foil is silicone grease, because it's thick and sticky (though melting at warm temperatures, leaving grease flowing on the forestay chain-plat, as you probably all experienced).
This grease is also good for the turn-buckles'threads, when you tighten them.
 
By the way, Craig is right saying that you should take down the electric furler from the foil, before droping the foil/forestay assembly, because of the weight, but also because of a plastic sleeve/bearing, located around the forestay, at the bottom, between the foil and the motor. This plastic sleeve will prevent you from pulling the forestay out of the foil (the bottom swage will knock on the sleeve).
This plastic sleeve is a cylinder made of two halves in order one can easily install and remove it.
 
All the best.
 
Olivier.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Mercury Outboard 15hp carburetor problem

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Thanks, Ian...It seems to be fine now. I would have called him a few days ago, if I had the number...I was certainly at that point.

We will be here for another week.

Bill
BeBe 387


On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 7:19 AM, Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill and Judy,    If you are still in Montenegro and need anything else for your outboard you could try Alan Smith in Tivat, an English mechanic, tel. 00382 69 291239. He revived our 2hp 2stroke Yamaha after it had been on our dinghy which flipped in 50 plus knots as we were entering the narrows in Montenegro. Sod's law, as we never normally either tow the dink or , when doing so, keep the outboard on it......
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM302, Corfu


To: amelyachtowners@...
From: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2014 05:19:10 +0000
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Mercury Outboard 15hp carburetor problem




Greg,

Thanks for your email. It was difficult because of a series of connected and disconnected problems. The following were the issues causing and/or contributing to the loss of power:
  1. Fuel line pump-bulb had a small hole (air leak)
  2. Fuel lines (2) inside the engine cover were disintegrating from the inside (not obvious on the outside) this caused very small pieces of rubber to get inside the carburetor and it also caused the fuel line to eventually crimp under vacuum.
  3. Fuel vent on the fuel tank...the o ring around the vent plug had shifted and was actually blocking the two holes in the plug, thus stopping all venting.
Number 2 above was the tough one to find and fix. The tiny bits of rubber got lodged in several places: 
  1. The diaphragm fuel pump valves
  2. The float fuel valve
  3. And the very tiny jet that goes from the bottom of the fuel bowl to the venturi.
In all, it took five or six carburetor removals and overhauls to find all of the problems. Finding 7mm fuel hose in Montenegro was a challenge. A taxi and a search of one small town, then another larger town produced 8mm fuel hose for 2 euro, plus 45 euro for the taxi. Fortunately I had saved the fuel line pump bulb from 5 years ago when I changed out the entire fuel tank hose, so I simply am using the old one because finding a new one here is impossible.

The fuel filter did not help when the main contributor to the debris was after the fuel filter. When I get a chance, I will add a disposable in-line filter immediately before the carburetor.

The entire 1 week process was very frustrating and had me considering replacing this 11 year old motor. In the mean time, I did order the reed valve assembly, another carburetor kit, and a few other things which are waiting for me in Houston. I had planned to have them shipped to me, but will wait for a while. 

I could not have repaired and cleaned the carburetor if I did not have a compressed air line that I connected to my dive tank. This line is a new addition for me. I bought a 50' lightweight hose from a dive shop that will screw into one of the 3 places on my "first-stage" regulator. At the other end of the hose I can connect either the "second stage," or octopus that I removed to connect this new line, or a air gun. In this case I connected the air gun. I also bought it for quick under-the-boat diving where I can leave the tank on-deck.

I had 4 or 5 years of 2 cycle engine experience when I was a teenager. I raced a go-cart which topped-in at 80mph, powered by two chain saw engines, lots of modifications, and a mixture of gas/nitro. For every hour of racing there was at least 12 hours of repairs/work. In that environment, I would get less than 1 year on the reed valves...but, of course, when they were working the engine was at 12,000 - 15,000 rpm.

I hope that this helps someone with similar issues.

Bill
BeBe 387




On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 12:22 AM, gmshea@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Bill, 
       Did you fix the outboard problem? The fuel tank vent would have been my first choice, as someone pointed out. Was that it? Considering all of the other stuff you've done, I'd suspect the fuel pump. I'm not conversant with the Mercury pump specifically but they are normally a diaphragm type driven by the crankshaft pressure cycles. If the diaphragm stretches or develops a leak, you will get your symptoms. Pressurizing the whole fuel system with the primer bulb will get you going but if the pump doesn't do it's job, the motor will die after a few minutes. Try getting it going and see if it stays running if you continuously squeeze the primer bulb. 
       I don't think the reed valves are a suspect. They are usually very long lived unless you damage them during a tear down. 

Greg Shea
Sharki 133
Gruissan






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Mercury Outboard 15hp carburetor problem

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Bill and Judy,    If you are still in Montenegro and need anything else for your outboard you could try Alan Smith in Tivat, an English mechanic, tel. 00382 69 291239. He revived our 2hp 2stroke Yamaha after it had been on our dinghy which flipped in 50 plus knots as we were entering the narrows in Montenegro. Sod's law, as we never normally either tow the dink or , when doing so, keep the outboard on it......
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM302, Corfu


To: amelyachtowners@...
From: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2014 05:19:10 +0000
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Mercury Outboard 15hp carburetor problem



Greg,

Thanks for your email. It was difficult because of a series of connected and disconnected problems. The following were the issues causing and/or contributing to the loss of power:
  1. Fuel line pump-bulb had a small hole (air leak)
  2. Fuel lines (2) inside the engine cover were disintegrating from the inside (not obvious on the outside) this caused very small pieces of rubber to get inside the carburetor and it also caused the fuel line to eventually crimp under vacuum.
  3. Fuel vent on the fuel tank...the o ring around the vent plug had shifted and was actually blocking the two holes in the plug, thus stopping all venting.
Number 2 above was the tough one to find and fix. The tiny bits of rubber got lodged in several places: 
  1. The diaphragm fuel pump valves
  2. The float fuel valve
  3. And the very tiny jet that goes from the bottom of the fuel bowl to the venturi.
In all, it took five or six carburetor removals and overhauls to find all of the problems. Finding 7mm fuel hose in Montenegro was a challenge. A taxi and a search of one small town, then another larger town produced 8mm fuel hose for 2 euro, plus 45 euro for the taxi. Fortunately I had saved the fuel line pump bulb from 5 years ago when I changed out the entire fuel tank hose, so I simply am using the old one because finding a new one here is impossible.

The fuel filter did not help when the main contributor to the debris was after the fuel filter. When I get a chance, I will add a disposable in-line filter immediately before the carburetor.

The entire 1 week process was very frustrating and had me considering replacing this 11 year old motor. In the mean time, I did order the reed valve assembly, another carburetor kit, and a few other things which are waiting for me in Houston. I had planned to have them shipped to me, but will wait for a while. 

I could not have repaired and cleaned the carburetor if I did not have a compressed air line that I connected to my dive tank. This line is a new addition for me. I bought a 50' lightweight hose from a dive shop that will screw into one of the 3 places on my "first-stage" regulator. At the other end of the hose I can connect either the "second stage," or octopus that I removed to connect this new line, or a air gun. In this case I connected the air gun. I also bought it for quick under-the-boat diving where I can leave the tank on-deck.

I had 4 or 5 years of 2 cycle engine experience when I was a teenager. I raced a go-cart which topped-in at 80mph, powered by two chain saw engines, lots of modifications, and a mixture of gas/nitro. For every hour of racing there was at least 12 hours of repairs/work. In that environment, I would get less than 1 year on the reed valves...but, of course, when they were working the engine was at 12,000 - 15,000 rpm.

I hope that this helps someone with similar issues.

Bill
BeBe 387




On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 12:22 AM, gmshea@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Bill, 
       Did you fix the outboard problem? The fuel tank vent would have been my first choice, as someone pointed out. Was that it? Considering all of the other stuff you've done, I'd suspect the fuel pump. I'm not conversant with the Mercury pump specifically but they are normally a diaphragm type driven by the crankshaft pressure cycles. If the diaphragm stretches or develops a leak, you will get your symptoms. Pressurizing the whole fuel system with the primer bulb will get you going but if the pump doesn't do it's job, the motor will die after a few minutes. Try getting it going and see if it stays running if you continuously squeeze the primer bulb. 
       I don't think the reed valves are a suspect. They are usually very long lived unless you damage them during a tear down. 

Greg Shea
Sharki 133
Gruissan





Mercury Outboard 15hp carburetor problem

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Greg,

Thanks for your email. It was difficult because of a series of connected and disconnected problems. The following were the issues causing and/or contributing to the loss of power:
  1. Fuel line pump-bulb had a small hole (air leak)
  2. Fuel lines (2) inside the engine cover were disintegrating from the inside (not obvious on the outside) this caused very small pieces of rubber to get inside the carburetor and it also caused the fuel line to eventually crimp under vacuum.
  3. Fuel vent on the fuel tank...the o ring around the vent plug had shifted and was actually blocking the two holes in the plug, thus stopping all venting.
Number 2 above was the tough one to find and fix. The tiny bits of rubber got lodged in several places: 
  1. The diaphragm fuel pump valves
  2. The float fuel valve
  3. And the very tiny jet that goes from the bottom of the fuel bowl to the venturi.
In all, it took five or six carburetor removals and overhauls to find all of the problems. Finding 7mm fuel hose in Montenegro was a challenge. A taxi and a search of one small town, then another larger town produced 8mm fuel hose for 2 euro, plus 45 euro for the taxi. Fortunately I had saved the fuel line pump bulb from 5 years ago when I changed out the entire fuel tank hose, so I simply am using the old one because finding a new one here is impossible.

The fuel filter did not help when the main contributor to the debris was after the fuel filter. When I get a chance, I will add a disposable in-line filter immediately before the carburetor.

The entire 1 week process was very frustrating and had me considering replacing this 11 year old motor. In the mean time, I did order the reed valve assembly, another carburetor kit, and a few other things which are waiting for me in Houston. I had planned to have them shipped to me, but will wait for a while. 

I could not have repaired and cleaned the carburetor if I did not have a compressed air line that I connected to my dive tank. This line is a new addition for me. I bought a 50' lightweight hose from a dive shop that will screw into one of the 3 places on my "first-stage" regulator. At the other end of the hose I can connect either the "second stage," or octopus that I removed to connect this new line, or a air gun. In this case I connected the air gun. I also bought it for quick under-the-boat diving where I can leave the tank on-deck.

I had 4 or 5 years of 2 cycle engine experience when I was a teenager. I raced a go-cart which topped-in at 80mph, powered by two chain saw engines, lots of modifications, and a mixture of gas/nitro. For every hour of racing there was at least 12 hours of repairs/work. In that environment, I would get less than 1 year on the reed valves...but, of course, when they were working the engine was at 12,000 - 15,000 rpm.

I hope that this helps someone with similar issues.

Bill
BeBe 387




On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 12:22 AM, gmshea@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill, 

       Did you fix the outboard problem? The fuel tank vent would have been my first choice, as someone pointed out. Was that it? Considering all of the other stuff you've done, I'd suspect the fuel pump. I'm not conversant with the Mercury pump specifically but they are normally a diaphragm type driven by the crankshaft pressure cycles. If the diaphragm stretches or develops a leak, you will get your symptoms. Pressurizing the whole fuel system with the primer bulb will get you going but if the pump doesn't do it's job, the motor will die after a few minutes. Try getting it going and see if it stays running if you continuously squeeze the primer bulb. 
       I don't think the reed valves are a suspect. They are usually very long lived unless you damage them during a tear down. 

Greg Shea
Sharki 133
Gruissan



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RE: ParaSailor

Gregory Shea
 

Bill, 
       Did you fix the outboard problem? The fuel tank vent would have been my first choice, as someone pointed out. Was that it? Considering all of the other stuff you've done, I'd suspect the fuel pump. I'm not conversant with the Mercury pump specifically but they are normally a diaphragm type driven by the crankshaft pressure cycles. If the diaphragm stretches or develops a leak, you will get your symptoms. Pressurizing the whole fuel system with the primer bulb will get you going but if the pump doesn't do it's job, the motor will die after a few minutes. Try getting it going and see if it stays running if you continuously squeeze the primer bulb. 
       I don't think the reed valves are a suspect. They are usually very long lived unless you damage them during a tear down. 

Greg Shea
Sharki 133
Gruissan


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forestay Grease

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Bonjour, Olivier,     I , too, am delighted to read your contributions to this site.  When you re grease the forestay what grease do you use ?
            Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Corfu


To: amelyachtowners@...
From: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2014 22:12:32 -0400
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forestay Grease



Dear Olivier,
it is very nice to see you here.
Fair winds
eric
sm 376 kimberlite
 
 
 

On Sat, Jun 28, 2014 at 03:28 PM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
 
 

 Dear Richard,
 
I hope I can help some of you all Amel owners.
 
All the best.
 
Olivier


On Saturday, June 28, 2014 2:21 PM, "Richard Piller richard03801@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Oliver welcome's nice to have you onboard. Thank you for including your email address and your post. 

Regards
Capt Richard Piller cell16037675330

On Jun 28, 2014, at 3:14, "Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Dear Bill,
 
after spending 19 years at the AMEL "after sales dept" in La Rochelle, I'm now marine surveyor for leisure crafts, working mainly for clients who need a pre-purchase survey and for insurers (damage claims surveys and repair costs).
 
I'm located in La Rochelle and may travel around Europe.
 
 
Have a good day
 
Olivier
 
 


On Saturday, June 28, 2014 7:08 AM, "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Olivier,

I saw your posting in the Amel Group. I am very glad that you are part of this group. There are few people in the world that know as much about our boats as you do.

I heard that you just completed a survey for an Amel purchase in France for a friend. Can you tell me what you are doing and where you are located? Also, could you add your contact information?

Best,

Bill 
BeBe #387
Currently Montenegro


On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 7:34 PM, Paul LaFrance pflafrance@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Olivier
What procedures are required to grease the inside of the foil?
Paul LaFrance
SV NOMAD #362

To: amelyachtowners@...
From: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2014 11:49:31 -0700
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forestay Grease


 

 
Hi Jamie,

the AMEL foils are made of one piece and there aren't any nylon bearings Inside (compared to most other manufacturer's foils). The grease put originally Inside the foil is supposed to ease the friction of the foil onto the forestay. It is advisable to replace the grease after 5 years or even earlier if you sail a intensively.

Olivier.









Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 4JH4-HTE TURBO MALFUNCTION

Alejandro Paquin
 

Dear Mark:

I finally got the turbo to spin freely by using a wireless drill and a socket wrench on the nut holding the fan assembly together with the engine shut down of course. I ran the engine twice and seems it was stuck probably salt water ingress as you said.

I did have an accident caused by over cranking and water coming into my carter. I did flush the engine six times and the oil seems to be clear from water now.

I tried getting the kit in eBay but one vendor I consulted told me the kit they sold was maybe not compatible with this turbo unit. I sent you the information concerning our engine in case it helps to locate the part.

Regards,


Alex


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Alarm on SY Elise

Roque
 

Hi Wolfgang


Something like this once happened while Atica was on the hard (and I was 5200 miles away!). Of course the usual suspects were all checked, but no avail.


It turned out it was an alarm that sounded from the bow-thruster area: a high pitch beep, not too loud, every 5 seconds or so.


I was reported it was somehow related to "low-battery”, since the boat had been  unplugged from shore power. As soon as the plug was reconnected, it stopped.


Good luck


Roque


Atica

Amel 54



2014-06-29 3:25 GMT-03:00 Wolfgang Weber webercardio@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Good morning,
Thank you very much for the message, Alarm is running on my boat. I just returned to germany and can't imagine what kind of alarm is working. Saltwaterinlet is closed, everything is shut down. May be there is a dysfunction of the CO or Fire-alarm.
How does the Alarm sound ? Long beep , or short ? Loudness ?
Thank you for your help Wolfgang Weber webercardio@...

Von meinem iPad gesendet



Re: Alarm on SY Elise

Wolfgang Weber <webercardio@...>
 

Good morning,
Thank you very much for the message, Alarm is running on my boat. I just returned to germany and can't imagine what kind of alarm is working. Saltwaterinlet is closed, everything is shut down. May be there is a dysfunction of the CO or Fire-alarm.
How does the Alarm sound ? Long beep , or short ? Loudness ?
Thank you for your help Wolfgang Weber webercardio@...

Von meinem iPad gesendet


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Post on Cruisers Forum today....

yahoogroups@...
 

I did a search of the previous postings and found that Wolfgang Weber owns Amel 54 #162 S/Y Elise from La Rochelle.

Unfortunately, I do not have his email address.

Possibly someone has his contact information.

Bill
BeBe #387


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forestay Grease

eric <kimberlite@...>
 


Re: {Disarmed} Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SM Boom attachment

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Thanks Colin, that is a great offer, much appreciated. We will keep in touch.
Kind regards
Danny


On Saturday, 28 June 2014 11:14 PM, "Colin Streeter colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Hi Danny
If you do leave your boat in Scarborough we can keep an eye on her for you if you wish. I am down there every 2nd week-end as we have a home in the canal estate (Newport) in Scarborough area where our boat is also kept. Would be great to catch up with you guys here.
Kind regards
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM2K #332 


On Sat, Jun 28, 2014 at 5:53 AM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Thanks would be good to meet up, but don't think we will get that far South.
Cheers
Danny


On Friday, 27 June 2014 8:43 PM, "Chris chris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
If you make it to Melbourne in Australia sing out, we would really like to catch up. Our SM31 Hemera is in Gocek where Riza is looking after her for us.

Cheers
Chris & Jennifer
Hemera SM031

On 27 June 2014 6:34:38 PM AEST, "Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Hi Alan,
We are still clearing the decks but hope to get away during July. To New Caledonia, then Vanuatu and probably leave her in Scarborough Australia for the summer.
Cheers
Danny


On Friday, 27 June 2014 8:07 PM, "divanz620@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Ouch 80 EU !

Probably could get one made locally ???

Danny, we're in Papeete heading for Suvarow around July 18.....

Where are you planing to go and when ?

Would be good to catch up !

Best to Yvonne

Cheers
Alan
SV Elyse SM437
Papeete

__._,_..___
Posted by: divanz620@...
Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (5)

.








--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Post on Cruisers Forum today....

Stephanie DiBelardino <stephiedib@...>
 

Roque

Any success?  If not, I am sure that the port administrator knows who the owner is,   but he/she probably does not work weekends.

Stephanie DiBelardino

On Jun 28, 2014, at 6:25 PM, "Roque ediroque@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Let`s not miss the point: Regardless the choice of words, someone took the time to  write just to help a strange.

If it was my boat,I would be very grateful.

So, thank you for the info.

Roque

Atica
Amel 54




2014-06-28 17:05 GMT-03:00 rossny@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:
 

Amel owners

I know all the Amel owners talk to each other in there clicky world but here in Porto touristico di Rome marina ( Ostia, Rome ) there is a Amel 54 fairly new yacht S/Y Elise from La Rochelle it has a Alarmgoing 24 hrs a day if any one knows the owner can you let them know as marina staff won't do a thing about it , i am 5 berths down and can here it all night above the music of the marina bars 

Any  clicky people know how to contact the owner? 




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Post on Cruisers Forum today....

Roque
 

Let`s not miss the point: Regardless the choice of words, someone took the time to  write just to help a strange.

If it was my boat,I would be very grateful.

So, thank you for the info.

Roque

Atica
Amel 54




2014-06-28 17:05 GMT-03:00 rossny@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Amel owners

I know all the Amel owners talk to each other in there clicky world but here in Porto touristico di Rome marina ( Ostia, Rome ) there is a Amel 54 fairly new yacht S/Y Elise from La Rochelle it has a Alarmgoing 24 hrs a day if any one knows the owner can you let them know as marina staff won't do a thing about it , i am 5 berths down and can here it all night above the music of the marina bars 

Any  clicky people know how to contact the owner?